Living vs dead water. It is easy.

[Jetijs]

I am no expert in this regard, but I believe that conditioning the stainless steel plates should solve most of the problems. Conditioning means putting the plates in distilled water with some KOH or NaOH added as electrolyte. Then you put some 2-3Amps through those electrodes for a day or so. The electrolyte will turn yellow. Then you change the electrolyte and repeat the process. You do this thing till the electrolyte does not become yellow anymore. After that you clean the electrodes and they are ready to be used in your water ionizing project. Just be sure not to change the polarities, that means that you must use positive terminal on that plate which was positive while the conditioning process. And the same for negative terminal. The conditioning ensures that all the impurities, and lose particles leave the electrode, also it increases the surface area of the plate. On the other hand this conditioning is probably not needed, as the water turns yellow while ionizing only on the positive plate and this acidic water is what you wont use anyway. To be sure about electrodes, I guess that platinum coated ones should be the best ones available.
Hope this helps

Jetijs

[krzysiek]

Jetjis, thanks very much for your layman terms explanation. It is much appreciated. I bought a water filter but I think the ionisation part of it contributes a lot to it too, just as much as drinking the alkaline water. I have a feeling the ionised water might bring a better/quicker result anyway.

I am only 20 years old, so there is likely not too much wrong with me just yet but I'm interested in getting myself some of this ionised water. Thanks for the tip regarding cleaning the impurities of the SS cathode/anode. Much appreciated. I have also heard titanium is most recommended, I might try some of that... since you wouldn't need much for an electrode, etc.

Do you make it in a plastic container? I have read if you leave the ionised water in the plastic container, it starts to react with the plastic of the actual container, so I have heard it is recommended to empty immediately when the anode/cathode is turned off.

What type of V/A's are you running to power your latest ioniser?

Sorry for all of the questions, & thank you very very much!

PS: What do you think of the ASEA water in comparison? Will you be buying?

[Jetijs]

Hi.
Yes, I make the ionizing water in a plastic container, but since the charge dissipates in about 12h (I measured it with an ORP meter), it is consumed as fast as possible and does not spend too much in the container. It can also be done in glass container, use whatever is at hand. I have not measured the power consumption, but from what I can tell, it should be around 50W, but that depends on the water you use, the more conductive it is, the more power it will consume and faster heat the water. All waters are different. I usually let the process going until the water gets warm, at that point there is almost no point in continuing the charging process, the charge is almost maxed out already.
Hope this helps,
Jetijs

[krzysiek]

Hi Jetjis, thanks very much

Certainly does help. Sorry, I always seem to have a new Question but I promise to stop asking very soon.

Do you use any electrolyte? Can I just use water from the tap or pre-filtered water without any electrolyte?

Thanks

[Jetijs]

No, I did not use any electrolyte, just tap or spring water. This is why you need those high voltages, because the water is not very conductive. You want only ionized water, nothing else, so no electrolyte.
I use tap water mostly, because we have good tap water without any chemicals. But tap water quality differs from place to place. I guess you will be ok with using tap water. If it tastes funny, then there is probably too much calcium or rust or other stuff in the water. A good spring water will not change its taste when ionized. You just have to test all kinds of different water sources and see which one gives the best result. An ORP meter is very handy as you can measure which type of water can be ionized to greater charge, that is usually the best. I found that the best water is from my friends well who lives some distance from me. That is why I always take as much water with me when I visit him. You can get an ORP meter from ebay, costs about 40$.

[AetherScientist]

Sea water to drink?

In the place I live, the water quality is very bad.
So, I think taking water from the beach and filtering or doing something to it, to make it safe to human.

Do you know a technique to drink water from the sea? I used distillation, but you know that you cannot change the pH of distilled water since it hasn't minerals in it.

[Jetijs]

AetherScientist, distilled water can be ionized. No matter that there is no minerals, it just takes higher voltages and longer times. You just need to split few water molecules into ionized form and they will increase the conductivity. And it will increase as there are more water ions. In this case the minerals and salts are replaced by water ions. This has been done in my local physics institute in lab conditions. But it is not practical as the process takes too long. So you probably need to add something, but I man not clear to what. If you use too much salt, you will destroy your steel electrodes. Maybe you can add a tiny bit of bottled mineral water, like evian or something to your distilled water, that should work fine

[Jetijs]

Here is my living water generator in action:
Charged water maker - YouTube

[shmandi]

living water generator

Here is my living water generator in action:
Charged water maker - YouTube

This looks very good. Can you give us some details about construction? What electrodes do you use, what voltage, how you separate positive and negative charged water?

[Jetijs]

Hi Shmandi,
it is not complicated, I machined two plates with a long channel maze in them so that when they are put one on top of another, the channel is parallel. You just stack those acrylic plates together with the membrane between them and put a sheet of stainless steel on the ends so that you have this config:

steel plate>acrylic channel plate>membrane>acrylic channel pate>steel plate.
I use rectifier AC on the plates, that means about 300V DC. The current consumption is about 3A max if the acrylic plates are 12mm thick, the thinner the more close the electrodes will be and the greater current draw. Also the more channels you have, the higher the current draw, but also bigger ionization difference. The water is pumped from the bottom side up through the two parallel channels at the same time, the water passes through the channels and takes the electrolytic gasses along till the output on top. The electrodes are stainless steel, as far as I know the bad stuff from the electrodes like chromium and such gathers only on the positively charged water so that water is not used and it has not much use for health anyway. The membrane is a filter paper made out of some kind of porous plastic that is used in water filters, works very well. Here are some pictures:

[shmandi]

Thank you for detailed description.
Do you use any gasket between plates?

[Jetijs]

No, just some silicon

[Stephen Brown]

Jetis,
Where did you source the filter paper / membrane?
Did you use a CNC to do the machining?
3 alkalizers? A couple of your friends are very happy.
Nice work.
Stephen

[Jetijs]

Hi Stephen
The cnc was used only to make those channels in the middle plates, everything else was cut with a saw and drilled as needed. Several people are now testing the device and so far the results are great. The filter membrane was taken from a water filter such as this one:

[ashtweth]

Guys shame about the min order for these, would of made a great addition
Titanium electrode for making alkaline & acidic ionized water products, buy Titanium electrode for making alkaline & acidic ionized water products from alibaba.com