Use for the Tesla Switch

[ausev]

@AusEv

I have not had good luck charging batteries with the relays. It is efficient for running a load but it does not do the same thing a Bits setup which will charge batteries to a point. Mine cannot self power itself and overcome the load of driving the relays. It will power a load about 12 times longer if switch at 1hz.
The relays are also very temperamental. They cook at the drop of a hat. At 30 dollars a pop, that hurts.

But if you want the setup here it is. Its the wiring from the Free Energy Guide, modified.

Matt

Hi Matt,

Thank you for that it is greatly appreciated.

I will get working on this right away.

Driving range is the issue in an electric vehicle so 12 times longer on the load would be a great result for me.

I will persist with this and work on the issues you mentioned and let you know the results.

Here is an excerpt from someone who has worked with these relays before in an automotive:

As this graph (taken from the data sheet) shows, at up to 40 degrees C ambient the relay can handle 25 amps continuously. At higher ambient temps (like found in an engine bay, for example!), the relay is de-rated.



If high currents need to be handled, bolt the relay to a large heatsink (using thermal grease between the heatsink and the metal back of the relay) and check that the relay does not exceed 40 degrees C in operation.

Regards,

AusEv

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Is this going to turn into a math problem? LOL

Thanks
Matt

Probably, and I suck at math. If you are only able measure 14 volts, you must have a very short pulse. I am typically seeing 18 to 20v across batts 1 and 3 or 2 and 4. I have been able to measure about 5 to 6V across the bulb when lit, not bright, but just glowing.

Bit's

[Matthew Jones]

@Bits
I am trying to confirm the voltage drop in the system from side to side. The load points show about 4.5 volt. I am afraid the batteries might not be getting enough on the receiving end. A few to many test leeds might not be helping
The pulses are 1 second a piece.

Ah we'll see.


@ausev
Hey can you point me to some litrature on those relays. I can't find anything on them.
I am using HFS33 200 volt 40 amp I believe. I haven't seen any that rated that high.
PM me if you want I'll get you my email. If your gonna build a car I wanna talk if you got time.

Matt

[Inquorate]

Probably, and I suck at math. If you are only able measure 14 volts, you must have a very short pulse. I am typically seeing 18 to 20v across batts 1 and 3 or 2 and 4. I have been able to measure about 5 to 6V across the bulb when lit, not bright, but just glowing.

Bit's

@ bits - what's the voltage drop over an sg coil?

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

@ bits - what's the voltage drop over an sg coil?

Hi Ben, I haven't measured that as of yet. I'll have to set it up to get that.

Thanks

Bit's
Update:

With this code;

high 4, 5
pause 800
low 4, 5
pause 50
high 6, 7
pause 800
low 6, 7

I hooked up the standard(well almost) SG coil (5 filar, 18AWG 120ft) with welding rod core, measuring .5 Ohms at J5.
An 1157 was hooked up to J6.

Starting batt voltage (low I know as I have been torturing them) - Batt1 - 12.01, Batt2 - 12.37, Batt3 - 11.71, Batt4 - 11.75.

Measurement across batt1 and 3 - 19.8, across 2 and 4 - 16.6
Measurement across coil - .325
Measurement across bulb - 2.82

Batts under load - Batt1 - 11.97, Batt2 - 12.28, Batt3 - 11.64. Batt4 - 11.75

Please note the pulse rate was not adjusted for this load and the batts are really needing a good charge.

I hope this helps.

Bit's

[nvisser]

Hi folks. I'm gathering the parts for building my TS and start experimenting. And I'm wondering if this is the original setup (corrected one). Can anyone confirm?

My next experiment will be replicating the 6677730 patent (pdf schematic), because I believe that this is the "solar charger". The one from the movies.

Valentin

I cant wait to see what results you get from the patent replication.
Maybe you should start with that one as a few of us has done the full switch and so far we did not get much charging. Nobody except Mathew with his commutator switches really tried to run loads on it to see if it last much longer than 4 batteries in parralel.
Maybe that method (6677730) is the missing link!!
Good luck and keep us updated.

[ausev]

@ausev
Hey can you point me to some litrature on those relays. I can't find anything on them.
I am using HFS33 200 volt 40 amp I believe. I haven't seen any that rated that high.
PM me if you want I'll get you my email. If your gonna build a car I wanna talk if you got time.

Matt

Hi Matt,

See attached details on the HFS15's.

Happy to talk about the car will PM you.

Regards,

AusEv

[vallentin]

Re: Double scaler charger

Hi Vallentin
I noticed from your posts that you love this type of circuits
Will you chech out this idea below and tell me what you think. It also uses 6 transistors but is more like a double scaler charger
The 2 batteries in series switch 24v to the 2 parralel caps. Then the 2 caps switch in series switching the 48v back to the parralel 12v batteries.
I must probably put a bulb in there somewhere
Maybe because of the higher voltages this can deliver results.
It has to be driven from a pic to get the correct phase shifts and duty cycles for the 2 pulses.

Thank you, but I think i'll stick to what I can understand, for now. My guess is that 48V over 12V batteries is kinda' dangerous.
Not to mention the very expensive SCR device needed, able to handle the switching process. Surely a hockey puck size!
The ordinary ones, will pop in an instant. Close to 25-28V.
Trust me, I already tried to dump more than 24V over a 12V battery by playing with the cap pulser and is impractical if you can't switch it well right from the beginning (and get rid of the buildup of currents).
Wich buildup will surely destroy your final device (SCR in this case).

And the most important condition, I ususally stay away from PIC's. I want to keep it simple and make it self-running.
I have two functional switching circuits to play with.
A 555 circuit and a SG3524 circuit (both with fully adjustable duty cicle). Using an IC socket and a jumper, I can choose different capacitor/resistor values for different frequency / duty cycle.

My final goal is a fully working TS, able to charge its own batteries and drive the switching circuit. NOT a load.
If by the end of the day I end up with 4 charged batteries and I can use them for illumination, for example, then I can move to something bigger.
During winter or during rainy seasons the solar panel is useless.
What will you do? Stay in the dark?
Baby steps...

I already have a SSG oscillator (7 strands coil) charging one of my battery banks during the day.
And backup illumination from inverter (wich I mainly use now every single day).
I pay a total of 60W in 12-13 hour to fully charge a 24 Amp battery pack to a peak of 16.5V
And I discharge about 1200W from them using the inverter during the night (until they reach 12.2V).
Not bad, huh?

The self running scalar charger is again a perfect ideea for me, and I will follow this path too. Soon.
Think of it a little.
Let's say that you have a small one in your car. To keep your battery at peak during winter. Very useful circuit!
Or a bigger one (or more efficient) over your battery bank.
And that it costs you nothing (except for the parts) to charge them.

Any workable idea is good for me, as long as it pays off. Right?
That's why I'm going to try all the possibilities, including TS, SSG and the like. And then choose the best suitable ones for my needs.
That will be running completely off the grid.
During a blackout, in a few km radius, in my home you'll find the lights on. Small ones, 18W CFL's, but boy! They're so bright compared to what's outside.
Thank you Mr. Bedini for that lesson!

Valentin

[safder]

sounds cool man.

These days we are facing a big energy crisis in our country pakistan. So we are also looking for these technologies and we are trying hard but no luck .

bit's
plz tell me what kind of loads we can drive through a working ts. i mean big loads.

[ewizard]

snip <

I already have a SSG oscillator (7 strands coil) charging one of my battery banks during the day.
And backup illumination from inverter (wich I mainly use now every single day).
I pay a total of 60W in 12-13 hour to fully charge a 24 Amp battery pack to a peak of 16.5V
And I discharge about 1200W from them using the inverter during the night (until they reach 12.2V).
Not bad, huh?

The self running scalar charger is again a perfect ideea for me, and I will follow this path too. Soon.
Think of it a little.
Let's say that you have a small one in your car. To keep your battery at peak during winter. Very useful circuit!
Or a bigger one (or more efficient) over your battery bank.
And that it costs you nothing (except for the parts) to charge them.

Any workable idea is good for me, as long as it pays off. Right?
That's why I'm going to try all the possibilities, including TS, SSG and the like. And then choose the best suitable ones for my needs.
That will be running completely off the grid.
During a blackout, in a few km radius, in my home you'll find the lights on. Small ones, 18W CFL's, but boy! They're so bright compared to what's outside.
Thank you Mr. Bedini for that lesson!

Valentin

Can you point me to more details of your particular "SSG oscillator (7 strands coil) " circuit. Is this the standard Bedini SSG? I've got a battery bank I'd like to be able to charge more efficiently and am looking for the best solution. If you are using 60 watts charging to get 1200 watts out of the batteries that sounds great if I understand correctly what you are saying.

[JohnStone]

@John_K #2096

You wondered what the diode and cap on base Q9 and Q10 is for.
I discussed this with my colleagues this day and we are all convinced that it is for switching speed – especially switch-on speed. Here the detailed explanation:

The MJ21194 contains some inherent capacitors between terminals. Here we look at – base to emitter – up to 1nF! (depending on voltage). You can’t get rid of it. In order to open the transistor. This capacitance needs to be loaded in excess of 0,6 Volt first before any useful base current can flow. And after this it flattens the switch-ON edge of the transistor.
Conforming to JB and TB edges need to be as fast as possible in order to generate the required shock in the battery.
If you tune the opto output transistor along R7 > diode > base Q10 to the maximum allowed DC current then courtesy of 1µ capacitor you get at switch on time for short time some extra mAmps via the 1µ capacitor. This is allowed by the opto spec for short time. After loading this capacitance to 0.6V the diode will reduce the base current to the previously tuned DC maximum. Do not be confused because of the big 1µF – you can use only the small difference of 0.6V = few coulombs.
Your gain: faster switch on time.

The question ist not if you use this arrangement or not – the question is if you have a steep switch-on-edge! If JB says that this components are necessary then he tells us that a steep edge is necessary. We shoeld folow him before "optimizing". Unfortunately he does not tell how many Volt / µs is required in order to work correctly in the battery.

My interpretation so far.

~o0o~

@ all
Please study the following text by TB!
Bearden on Bedinis' Negative Resistance Effect - 04/09/00 study this please!
I do not want to argue but JB complains that people do not do exactly what they are told. TB explains the facts for mere mortals like me and I extract the following:

The TS switch is some magic like a two stroke two cylinder engine.

1. The 24V batteries send an electron shock to the secondary batteries (steep edge required!) by switching Q10 on.
2. The electrons pile up at the plates while kicking the very heavy and lazy ions.
3. The Potential and high voltage built at the plates extracts scalar energy instantly (negative resistor!).
4. The energy entered in the system (plates) now sends the potential in both directions (“like two scalded hogs” TB) ions and electrons.
5. The “electron hogs” return to the source (the try it for a short time) contrary to the expected loading current and could potentially drive a load if the load would be connected at this time! (usually it is not ) while the “ion hogs” loading the battery. The kick back pulse might not be visible on scope while Q10 still switched on.
I understand from this the following:
a) At this time the switch should be already in the state of the second stroke - Q9 on
b) The loading current above should now drive the batteries (before 24V now 12V) They initiated the kick before. The kick back current will do the loading with pleasure at the oposite battery bank because it flows now from 24V to low side winged by the scalar kick experienced before. Contrary to the SSG now the kick back is used here extensively.
6. The ions tend to return later like in a spring/mass system. So this seems to be a second resonant timing to be observed. It seems that they can produce a second kick back and a second pulse from the source battery can produce a second scalar energy pulse. I am not clear about this! I should study the text again.

Repeat 1 to 6 again. That's it! JB states that it is simple! This simple?


Conclusions and ringing sentences heard and red again and again:

• The timing is dependent on the individual property of the lead acid batteries.
• It needs to be tuned. TB says it is a pain to tune the circuit. Nobody tells in what range the “resonant” frequencies of a battery can be found. The only unverified figure is: 100 to 800 Hz. It needs to be worked out.
• Batteries behave like RLC….
• Batteries have a resonant frequency ….(aparently there are two....)
• It’s all about switching…
• Steep edges……
• Battery loaded while driving a load
• More than 800Hz are dangerous – why? Too much energy entered? (theoretically times 10 power 18!)
• Do not optimise before you follow exactly the reference….
• Mueller report – schematic with transformers – they can’t be driven with low frequencies ….
• Switching transistors at same time …..

You may continue with more quotations …….

I might be wrong but without a theory it is not easy to decide what to prove and what to discard. If simple it needs to be understood!

I am convinced that without a thorough study of the individual battery (reactions) we tend to overwrite the expected effects. I tend to start with battery study next. I hope that my 100MHz scope is sufficient equipment.

JohnStone

[vallentin]

Can you point me to more details of your particular "SSG oscillator (7 strands coil) " circuit. Is this the standard Bedini SSG? I've got a battery bank I'd like to be able to charge more efficiently and am looking for the best solution. If you are using 60 watts charging to get 1200 watts out of the batteries that sounds great if I understand correctly what you are saying.

Yes, it is nothing else than a standard SSG driven solid state. I'm using BD243C as transistor and an old 18V/0.9A power supply (20 or 24 volts, the better).
One master coil (0,5mm) and six slaves (0.7mm).
And huge cables going to the battery bank (I don't want any losses).
Tune it as a normal SSG for minimum power consumption.
I'm gathering materials for the next 5 identical coils. If I can charge a regular car battery in less than 16 hours with this coil, imagine what 6 coils will do to a bigger battery bank. Driven from a carefuly chosen solar panel.
I don't have funds to buy the 10 coiler SSG from Rick. The only option for me is solid state. And scrap parts from defective monitors, printers, etc.
The neon bulbs are the only parts i've bought by now...
The batteries I'm using are 5-6 years old (we all have friends, don't we?), but well conditioned.
See, you don't have to spend thousands to get good results.
All you need is an open mind and the ability to read between the lines.
You have all the answers you need right here. In this thread...
Put everything that sounds important in a word document and read it carefuly. You'll see what I mean.
Pay special attention to what Mr. Bedini says. Useful clues are everywhere, but nothing comes for free...
Nobody seems to be bothered about the seventh opto from his TS circuit. Well, I was! And now I've got my answer...

Regards,
Valentin

[John_K]

Tesla Switch

Thanks JohnStone for the explanation

I'm in the midst of reconfiguring my D-TS for 6 transistors, all with optos and the diode and cap.

I did some interestig experiments yesterday with different loads and different batteries. One thing I did confirm is that the ideal load is dependant on the size of the batteries. The batteries are "part of the circuit"!

I have some theories about "tuning the load" that I'm working on. I'll post them once I've proved them out on the bench first - don't want to waste anyone's time right now.

I do think the load must be picked correctly before you start switching and worrying about pulse times and duty cycles.


John K.

@John_K #2096

You wondered what the diode and cap on base Q9 and Q10 is for.
I discussed this with my colleagues this day and we are all convinced that it is for switching speed – especially switch-on speed. Here the detailed explanation:

The MJ21194 contains some inherent capacitors between terminals. Here we look at – base to emitter – up to 1nF! (depending on voltage). You can’t get rid of it. In order to open the transistor. This capacitance needs to be loaded in excess of 0,6 Volt first before any useful base current can flow. And after this it flattens the switch-ON edge of the transistor.
Conforming to JB and TB edges need to be as fast as possible in order to generate the required shock in the battery.
If you tune the opto output transistor along R7 > diode > base Q10 to the maximum allowed DC current then courtesy of 1µ capacitor you get at switch on time for short time some extra mAmps via the 1µ capacitor. This is allowed by the opto spec for short time. After loading this capacitance to 0.6V the diode will reduce the base current to the previously tuned DC maximum. Do not be confused because of the big 1µF – you can use only the small difference of 0.6V = few coulombs.
Your gain: faster switch on time.

The question ist not if you use this arrangement or not – the question is if you have a steep switch-on-edge! If JB says that this components are necessary then he tells us that a steep edge is necessary. We shoeld folow him before "optimizing". Unfortunately he does not tell how many Volt / µs is required in order to work correctly in the battery.

My interpretation so far.

JohnStone

[ldissing]

...
Nobody seems to be bothered about the seventh opto from his TS circuit. Well, I was! And now I've got my answer...

Regards,
Valentin

I was concerned about it...JB said it was for the capacitor...to run the 3524 and associated circuitry from the cap...if I'm not mistaken. Did you find something else I missed.

Leroy

[ldissing]

I have some theories about "tuning the load" that I'm working on. I'll post them once I've proved them out on the bench first - don't want to waste anyone's time right now.
John K.

John K.,

You will not be wasting my time. I'm in the midst of it all, so please post or PM me with your thoughts. I ran 12V 10W bulbs (17ah) batteries, about the right amperage for the batteries, but I fear, too big a load in voltage. The batteries lost .2 V over 9 hours, with the batteries basically dead already. Pretty impressive. Let me know.

Lero