Use for the Tesla Switch

[Matthew Jones]

I got some 80v 200 amp latching fets but they always POP in Tesla switch. And they still cause a voltage drop of .7 per.

I wanted the most potential available with the smallest cost for switching.

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

OurBobby wrote...Also, do not get too involved with the Benitez patent. Certainly, the use of high frequency coils will provide Voltage for rectifying.

My only point was to show the correlation between his technique and what Ron Brandt was saying.

But you can always step up and step down so that the potential can be used as needed in any position.

Matt

[Redisnoc]

Request for info

Matt
I have several Edison Nickle Iron alkaline batteries.
and I agree that they will probably be great for the TS cct.
I don't have enough MATCHED batteries to test it though except in my Big one it is 30 cells 60v and ~ 4' x 4' x 3' tall and the way they are all connected I don't even want to attempt separating the connections with it charged.
I do also have a bunch of info on them including All of his patents. they are not something easy to reproduce at least the way he made them, I can give you a lot of info on them if you want it, I have been messing with them for quite a few years.

Later
Dave

Dave,
I would ask if you would widen your offer to others (incl. me) about the Edison NiFe batteries.
Thank you,
Dave (too)
pm if you would

[Matthew Jones]

I am starting to see what Brandt was talking about in the article.

I am back to driving a motor, and soon I'll be driving a transformer.

If you run a good load accross a set of batteries setup in a switch you can start to see the range at which you loose energy or retain energy.

Generally on the discharge side the batteries will roll down pretty quick to certain point. I have got my setup so that when the batteries hit that point at which they start slowly discharging My charge batteries are hitting around 14.5v. Then I switch directions. This to me is mostly the use of the skin charge.
But when I switch the time are different in the other direction because of the batteries. One set may take a 1 minute. The next set drops in 1.5 mintutes.

I have gone through about 6 sets of batteries watching this none have the same time for the discharge of the skin charge.

The best results I am getting come from using 4 batteries that are all really close.

I am still switching by hand but I am retaining all my energy while running a 3 amp load.

But this has allowed me to set the thing up and run back and forth at or about an equal amount of time.

So you may want to watch this and see if you can find a time and a load that suits your set of batteries and try to run and average time.

I am going to start driving a tranformer in the same fashion and see if I can get it to generate. If it does and it will fill up a a cap, I can discharge the cap back to the previously discharged batteries for a nice bang before starting to recharge them.

We'll see
Matt

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

I am starting to see what Brandt was talking about in the article.

I am back to driving a motor, and soon I'll be driving a transformer.

If you run a good load accross a set of batteries setup in a switch you can start to see the range at which you loose energy or retain energy.

Generally on the discharge side the batteries will roll down pretty quick to certain point. I have got my setup so that when the batteries hit that point at which they start slowly discharging My charge batteries are hitting around 14.5v. Then I switch directions. This to me is mostly the use of the skin charge.
But when I switch the time are different in the other direction because of the batteries. One set may take a 1 minute. The next set drops in 1.5 mintutes.

I have gone through about 6 sets of batteries watching this none have the same time for the discharge of the skin charge.

The best results I am getting come from using 4 batteries that are all really close.

I am still switching by hand but I am retaining all my energy while running a 3 amp load.

But this has allowed me to set the thing up and run back and forth at or about an equal amount of time.

So you may want to watch this and see if you can find a time and a load that suits your set of batteries and try to run and average time.

I am going to start driving a tranformer in the same fashion and see if I can get it to generate. If it does and it will fill up a a cap, I can discharge the cap back to the previously discharged batteries for a nice bang before starting to recharge them.

We'll see
Matt

Looks like you are making steady progress Matt. Great work.

Bit's

[nvisser]

Generally on the discharge side the batteries will roll down pretty quick to certain point.

I am still switching by hand but I am retaining all my energy while running a 3 amp load.
Matt

Matt
This is good news.
Sorry about my time capsule post the other day. I think my pc's time was wrong
I got a few questions
What voltage do you start of on all batteries? Must be high if your charge side reach 14.5v.
To what voltage does the discharge side goes when your charge batteries reach 14.5V?
How often do you switch sides?
I also found that you get better results when switching so slow like in the 3 battery test setup. I do it by just pulling one lead of one battery on one side on the full 6 transistor switch. No big changes. Of coarse then I'm just charging one battery from two.
I'm still using bulbs and will switch over to a transformer as soon as I can find a middle tap transformer that got two wires on the middle tap instead of on wire that is connected together.
A 555 timer that can give a good astable output up to 10 minutes connected to a jk flip flop will work well for your latest idea, for us that will probably never receive our ordered picaxe chips!!

[Matthew Jones]

Thank Bits

Sorry about my time capsule post the other day. I think my pc's time was wrong

LOL. I was wondering. It very well could have been my clock LOL

What voltage do you start of on all batteries? Must be high if your charge side reach 14.5v.
To what voltage does the discharge side goes when your charge batteries reach 14.5V?

I start them all charge to about 13.20. Most of my batteries will stand between 13.6 and 13.8.
I dont watch the charge side. Only discharge. Anytime you put a load a battery the load will knock the voltage down real quick to certain point. John K said that the other day. So I was watching it.
At the point in which the discharge batt's slow down to crawl, like 1/100 every 4 or five seconds being discharged. I mark that point and the time it took to get there then switch. Same on the other side.
And what happening is the SKIN charge from this is getting up to a point where the motor is running real. But I am not really pulling anything from the batteries.
I have looked at the charge batteries, most of them hit 14.5 to 15.

I just rock them back and forth.

With the set I am using, and mind you I looked for a balanced set, 1 side discharges at 35 seconds the other takes 48 with the same load.
Thats the most balance I could get.

One thing I should point out is I am not really concerned with this slow charging principal. I have all but given up on seeing that show any real potential. "Run long load" or "Run a secondary power source and put back"
Thats the direction I gotta keep going in because its showed more promise then anything I have done yet.

What I did get is you have to run side to side a little more time than I had though some time ago.

I'm convinced now that we could make a bilfiliar self oscillating monopole type thing to charge caps then bang that power in the batteries as we switch and start charging batteries. Or something like that.
But you gotta find that point in which you can get the most work out the of the skin charge without getting into the plate charge. Then use that to make more energy, either via shaft, transformer, light, what ever it is.

Brandt didn't charge his batteries he just went further. We can always supplement with low cost energy like solar.

And by the way I am not saying the slow charge or anything else any body is doing is the wrong way, just not the right way for me.

Matt

[nvisser]

I'm just not sure how you will drive a transformer like this. You will need at least 50hz to drive a transformer?

[ldissing]

@Matt,

I hear what you are saying, and I like what you are doing. You are using relays, so not a lot of losses if any there. You could also take the spike generated off the relays and diode that to your batteries that are being charged...another little kick for them to get into charge mode. Since you don't have to go fast, no problem for the relays either...practically any relay would work, i.e. you don't need to go at 1ms or anything which is cool.

It is amazing the ideas that you have that are so close to mine even though we see and look at this so differently. Good report and work, Matt!


@All,

When JB said it was in the devices, he could have meant the batteries, like Matt is saying. That "skin" charge can be useful and used to perform work. Of course, this flies in the face of JB saying to charge without current, but that could mean really fast switching, for an extended period of time on one side also, so unless JB would like to come and set us straight, we only have our testing/experimenting and not a lot of direction as to where we are going wrong...except when a test fails (or succeeds).

Of course, how do you power a house as Baldinelli was talking about doing without crap loads of current like 150amps from a 12V battery = 15 amps at 120V roughly or 1800W (I think he said 1500-2000W)? The only other way, that I can think of, would be Tesla one wire power. This would require a high switching rate and not so much current, but high voltage. We know HV in short pulses will run motors and lights, so he could also have been doing this also.

I don't remember what size batteries Matt is using, but even smaller batteries could be used and the switching rate increased so we can see if it works over a longer period of time, in a sort of shorter period of time, if you get what I'm trying to say. Of course, we need some more electronics to make that work successfully, because the switching would need to be done faster.

Leroy

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

D-TS driving a Transformer

Team, sorry this took a while to get a video out. Take a look;

YouTube - D-TS - Transf.MPG

Thanks

Bit's

[Matthew Jones]

When JB said it was in the devices, he could have meant the batteries, like Matt is saying. That "skin" charge can be useful and used to perform work. Of course, this flies in the face of JB saying to charge without current, but that could mean really fast switching, for an extended period of time on one side also, so unless JB would like to come and set us straight, we only have our testing/experimenting and not a lot of direction as to where we are going wrong...except when a test fails (or succeeds).

Of course, how do you power a house as Baldinelli was talking about doing without crap loads of current like 150amps from a 12V battery = 15 amps at 120V roughly or 1800W (I think he said 1500-2000W)? The only other way, that I can think of, would be Tesla one wire power. This would require a high switching rate and not so much current, but high voltage. We know HV in short pulses will run motors and lights, so he could also have been doing this also.

I don't remember what size batteries Matt is using, but even smaller batteries could be used and the switching rate increased so we can see if it works over a longer period of time, in a sort of shorter period of time, if you get what I'm trying to say. Of course, we need some more electronics to make that work successfully, because the switching would need to be done faster.

@Leroy

When JB says current he means HOT to GROUND Current from the battery.
You gotta have amperage flow to do anything. But when its HOT to HOT its a flow of potential not Current. Read back I asked him and that what he said. I was confused about that as well.

@Bits

I wouldn't use the TS switch to run the tranformer. NO... Turn the switch on so you get some amperage flowing side to side. The use a modulator to drive the transformer, like SSG off of a bridge. Except you won't have to diodes to charge the secondary load you just let it go back onto the wire just after the bridge. The spikes, if you get them will just hit the secondary battery.
The secondaries on the transformer will also spike and you can do a cap discharge.

If you use the TS switch you won't be able to develop the potential to drive to Transformer at the rate you need to to make generate power. So run the switch the same way you would to develop charging just make your load the SSG and transformer circuit. Then it can have some UMPH behind it. If not an SSG they have plenty of circuit for hard switching a transformer.
----

If you look my circuit I can charge with the switch's, they are the load (Like the light bulb). All I have to do to turn the relays on is step the potential into serial (At the ON opto and transistor) between the batteries. The switch's engage from that potential. So the slow charging steady flow is there
then I can add a load of my choosing. With all but about .6 volts of the total potential
Depending on the load my main system will switch based on the ratio and time of the skin charge.
I personally think those spikes will go to waste if you just dump them in a battery. Better to run them of of one strand of a Bilfiliar and collect the second. The caps will give a you the electrite effect and you can use what develop to to hit the batteries, right after they discharge and are switching direction. Smack them with that extra voltage before you charge them.

Matt

[ldissing]

@Leroy

When JB says current he means HOT to GROUND Current from the battery.
You gotta have amperage flow to do anything. But when its HOT to HOT its a flow of potential not Current. Read back I asked him and that what he said. I was confused about that as well.

@Bits

I wouldn't use the TS switch to run the tranformer. NO... Turn the switch on so you get some amperage flowing side to side. The use a modulator to drive the transformer, like SSG off of a bridge. Except you won't have to diodes to charge the secondary load you just let it go back onto the wire just after the bridge. The spikes, if you get them will just hit the secondary battery.
The secondaries on the transformer will also spike and you can do a cap discharge.

If you use the TS switch you won't be able to develop the potential to drive to Transformer at the rate you need to to make generate power. So run the switch the same way you would to develop charging just make your load the SSG and transformer circuit. Then it can have some UMPH behind it. If not an SSG they have plenty of circuit for hard switching a transformer.
----

If you look my circuit I can charge with the switch's, they are the load (Like the light bulb). All I have to do to turn the relays on is step the potential into serial (At the ON opto and transistor) between the batteries. The switch's engage from that potential. So the slow charging steady flow is there
then I can add a load of my choosing. With all but about .6 volts of the total potential
Depending on the load my main system will switch based on the ratio and time of the skin charge.
I personally think those spikes will go to waste if you just dump them in a battery. Better to run them of of one strand of a Bilfiliar and collect the second. The caps will give a you the electrite effect and you can use what develop to to hit the batteries, right after they discharge and are switching direction. Smack them with that extra voltage before you charge them.

Matt

So, that is why you have the grounds connected on both sides (Brandt did too). So it is hot+ to hot and not a hot to ground. So what is your intrepretation of gnd to gnd-. Isn't this the same thing?

If you could go a little slowerm, I'd appreciate it because I can't follow along. I know it is a personal problem on my side, but you wrote so much there and you know what you are doing (and saying), but I have not been able to figure it out yet. I'll keep looking at it, but maybe just a little slower would help me.

You drew it upside down for me too. Guess I need to stand on my head anyway so I'm forced to look at it a different way.

I copied all of JBs posts to a word file, so I can go look up what he said. He has always said it was a potential switch, and moving potential, but I hope it will sink in after I find the right post.

Thanks,

Leroy

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Circuit?

@Matt
What post is your circuit in?

Thanks

Bit's

[Matthew Jones]

@Bits
Its here

I think I have gotten it pretty tight, but it might have mistake or somthing it, those things present themselves over time.

Leroy.

Hot to Hot, Ground to Ground, doesn't matter. Justdepends on what works.

I have been having better luck with thing lately pulling my load through the HOT sides.
But I have had several in the past that did well off the ground. Just depends on what your doing.

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

I found one mistake and fixed it. Minor.

Matt