Use for the Tesla Switch

[hherby]

Bit's, I sent you a PM.

Alex

[rosehillworks]

Bits
I am thank full for your input, and look forward to your continued support to the thoughtful people in this thread

[redeagle]

To Bit's: I believe that you have already assisted in many ways with the tesla switch thread. I have been considering the solar assisted tesla switch that you worked on with John K. I would like to replicate it with the exception of using grid assistance.

I understand the concept from the two cap pulser where it uses the capacitive voltage divider to increase the amperage of the pulse to the batteries. I also realize that the use of microcontrollers enables logic to dictate where the charge current is needed the most. I appologize if I have missed something critical that someone has posted earlier, but i do have a few questions still lingering in the midst.

Briefly: How do I integrate the auxilary charge back into the tesla switch? What logic is needed to ensure that the batteries do not become over charged or left behind so to speak? I will be happy to discuss this in more detail in private and any input is greatly appreciated.

Redeagle

[harz]

Battery types of tesla switch

I would like to know what battery type is the best and most suitable for the tesla switch. Are those ordinary car batteries good for heavy duty tesla switch, because they can offer lot of current? Or should I rather use deep cycle batteries? What about gel cell batteries?

I will appreciate if somebody can give me answers on this question. Maybe the answer is allready in the thread, but unfortunately I don't have time to read all the posts through. (Maybe somebody who has read can link me that.)

I just began to build a tesla switch with a mechanical commutator type switch. the commutator is allmost ready made of 2 similar 36 segment DC motor commutators. I am going to join part of the segments so that I will get 3 groups of segments maybe 2x4 segments each connected together at 120 degrees. The left 3 groups of 2x8 segments I leave unconnected. Six pairs of carbon brushes is going to be around them at 60 degrees. This is the way I am going to use ordinary DC-motor commutators and brushes for switching.

[wrtner]

I would like to know what battery type is the best and most suitable for the tesla switch.

Car batteries are used. I think the formula is "deep cell, full flood".
You could try asking battery manufacturers to send you a set free
of charge for research purposes.

If you are not up to speed with Patrick's book, this may interest you:
http://www.free-energy-info.com/Chapter5.pdf

Paul-R

[harz]

Thank you Paul-R. So I am going to use car batteries. I have read the info from Patrick Kelly. I think the mechanical switching can be made more simply by putting all the 12 brushes/6 switches around one commutator, which I have made from 2 DC-motor commutators. If I would put only 2 switches to one commutator, as there is in Patrick Kelly's book, I would have to use 3 separate commutators and need 6 those DC-motor commutators to build it.

[wrtner]

Thank you Paul-R. So I am going to use car batteries. I have read the info from Patrick Kelly. I think the mechanical switching can be made more simply by putting all the 12 brushes/6 switches around one commutator, which I have made from 2 DC-motor commutators. If I would put only 2 switches to one commutator, as there is in Patrick Kelly's book, I would have to use 3 separate commutators and need 6 those DC-motor commutators to build it.

At the UK Free Enery Conference in 2007 (I think), Patrick warned against
going over 800 cycles per second. Things can get out of hand. Nothing much
happens up to 200cps but I am not clear whether a cycle is a switch from
state 1 to state 2, or a switch from state 1 to state 2 and back to state 1
again. I would guess at the latter but it would be best to assume the former
to be on the safe side. Paul-R

[Mario]

Hi all,

what happened to this thread? Has everyone vanished?

Matt, before you came up with your latest setup you were working on a "standard" TS setup with your SS relais and a motor or inverter as a load, where your would switch the relais after a minute or so. What kind of results did you get with that? Sorry if you already wrote that somewhere. I think this was before all the 10 coiler plus TS and cap pulser stuff came along...

I ask because I'm more and more convinced that the right setup is a very slow switching TS setup, but with a fast switching load, such as a monopole motor or solid state SG, and the actual output of the system would be the SG secondary.
I think this is more or less what you were doing before your latest setup right? I couldn't replicate the results you had on your latest setup so I did some more testing on various other setups and am now putting together a small TS with a Solid state SG as a load. Relais take care of switching the batts from series to parallel and back, and also switching the polarity of the SG input. This at a very slow rate like from 20 sec to minutes (have to find the right speed).
I also found a fast IGBT to switch the SG with, so that I still have a ns fast turn on and cut off but without the body diode that's in all the fets...
I'll let you know how it goes.

cheers,
Mario

[Gills]

Two sets of relays smoked

I really need help with this one. The room keeps gettin filled with smoke from the relays. This is a drawing of the TS I have been working on. I have fired it up twice. Both times relays AB & F switch. No smoke until the Picaxe switches off AB & F then DE & C on. Relays DE & C smoke. These are new relays wired with 8 awg on the output side and 16 awg on the control side. I have tested all relays prior to turning system on with light and battery. Picaxe drives the relays high for 65,000 units and off 15 units. Then Pin B3 high for 65,000 and low for 15 units. I am using separate PS driving Picaxe with 5 volts. I have also connected 5 volts to Darlington Chip with same PS. I am using 4ea Trojan Club Car 12V Deep Cycle for batteries.

I have the control wires run in parallel to a terminal block then connected to B1 for the first group. B3 drives the second group of relays.

Looking at the Hongfa DC relays it has polarity markings on the unit Is this the correct relay to use?

[Farmhand]

Hi all, Here's a Sketch of the latest variation of my untested "concept" switching arrangement.
I'm about to start building it, so I was wondering if anyone had any comments or idea's about if it could work or what might happen.

Big picture link.
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/8...aswitch004.jpg



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

The idea is that it's four phase and two separate toroidal transformers one a
regular type transformer connected for AC the other a Tesla style "converter",
going by the way the switches are numbered in the drawing I'm guessing to
fire it in the order of sw1,sw3,sw2 then sw4 with less than 23% duty so that
there is some dead time.

To outline the theory of operation which is speculation at best at this point,
The circuit would end up tuned to resonance hopefully so after a few cycles
when switch 1 is closed for phase 1 current flows from B1 and B4 in series
to B3 through one primary of the transformer adding charge to B3,
switch1 then opens.

Then when switch 3 is closed current flows from between B2 and B3 to ground
through one primary of the converter (it could be just a bifilar coil) the Spike
is directed to back to B1 or C1 when switch 3 is opened.

Then the same applies to switch 2 and switch 4, the result should be that an
AC output should come from the secondary of the top Transformer to power
a load. And the converter will return charge to a higher potential, maybe to
the capacitors would be best, dunno. That would prevent the bottom
batteries from over charging and return charge for the top transformer to
use. At the right frequency and with the right values of L and C and with the
appropriate pulse width it should boogie.

I can't decide on the best order to fire the coils, but the coils on each core
should be fired at 180 degree phase or opposite.
Or if some of the inductors or capacitors should be there or not .
So I thought might try to get some opinions.

Any thoughts ?

[wrtner]

I really need help with this one. The room keeps gettin filled with smoke from the relays. This is a drawing of the TS I have been working on. I have fired it up twice. Both times relays AB & F switch. No smoke until the Picaxe switches off AB & F then DE & C on. Relays DE & C smoke. These are new relays wired with 8 awg on the output side and 16 awg on the control side. I have tested all relays prior to turning system on with light and battery. Picaxe drives the relays high for 65,000 units and off 15 units. Then Pin B3 high for 65,000 and low for 15 units. I am using separate PS driving Picaxe with 5 volts. I have also connected 5 volts to Darlington Chip with same PS. I am using 4ea Trojan Club Car 12V Deep Cycle for batteries.

I have the control wires run in parallel to a terminal block then connected to B1 for the first group. B3 drives the second group of relays.

Looking at the Hongfa DC relays it has polarity markings on the unit Is this the correct relay to use?

I am pretty sure that the classic TS should be run with a duty cycle of 50/50.
What frequency are you using?

[Farmhand]

Hmmm, I think if I take a part of Matt's "Simple Switch" (Thanks Matt) use diodes and
an extra two mosfets as well as shift C3,C4,L3 and L4 like in the modifed
sketch below, it could work. Switch '1' and switch 1 are switched together
and switch '2' and switch 2 are switched together as phase 1 and phase 3
respectively. EDIT C4 is labeled as C3 by mistake sorry, C4 goes with L4.

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/2...aswitch001.jpg


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I've got a circuit worked out for four phase = 25% duty x 4. So far it's only
in my head but I think it'll work. I can probably make it go over 25 % and
still have it work I think because of the different source 'Sides' and voltages.

[Gills]

I am pretty sure that the classic TS should be run with a duty cycle of 50/50.
What frequency are you using?

Thanks wrtner for the reply. I am running the Picaxe B.1 pin for 65 seconds on the first group then shift to the second group "B.3 pin" for 65 seconds with a 15 unit pause between switching groups. Each unit is about 6ns. Before switching at faster frequency I wanted to go at it slow and then speed it up once the circuit was switching properly. I did not want any spikes before I proved out the circuit.

[wrtner]

Thanks wrtner for the reply. I am running the Picaxe B.1 pin for 65 seconds on the first group then shift to the second group "B.3 pin" for 65 seconds...

I'm not saying this won't work but it is a million miles from
what is being suggested - namely - a switch from one state
to the second state in a matter of milliseconds and back again.
i.e. starting off at 200 cycles per second. But you may be workling
on a completely different track.

[Matthew Jones]

Hi all,
what happened to this thread? Has everyone vanished?
Matt, before you came up with your latest setup you were working on a "standard" TS setup with your SS relais and a motor or inverter as a load, where your would switch the relais after a minute or so. What kind of results did you get with that?

The slow ones work very well. 8 -10 times more out but the load capacity is not great. It takes alot of batteries. You can maintain it for long periods of time if you have a secondary input of power that gets routed to the charge batteries. I have 8 of them running at this time and last I checked they all were still putting power out. Most have 20 -30 batteries on the them of various makes. One has almost 80 batteries on it now. I am not responsible for it though I just put the switch together another local fellow has been upgrading it. It provides light and small amounts of AC at a camping area he manages. I built it for them so they didn't have to listen to a generator at the river its located on.

I have ran several SG's on the different switching setups they work very good.

Within the next couple of month I plan to release a version that will eliminate the need for SG. A corrrectly wound and switched transformer is all you need....


Sorry I didn't answer sooner I have been outa town and I am playing catch up.

Matt