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Originally posted by Dollard, E. P. (N6KPH)View Post
I have a device, built for the Army Air Corps during World War 2, A/N number PP-18/AR Power Converter, which self-sustains the electrical system in my car. It uses the same theory of operation as Chris’s device but involves a different mechanical implementation utilizing a vibrator, several capacitors and 12V and 24V batteries that are connected in parallel through the device, rendering them as one.
I'm looking for a new project for the winter. This one looks like a very, very interesting concept. Over 100 pages.. wow... I've got a lot of reading to do LOL Not sure where to start. Thanks for all that you've shared.
Kyle
---------------------------------------------------- Alberta is under attack... http://rethinkalberta.com/
Has anyone seen my Bedini Ceiling Fan that pushes the warm air down, and charges batteries as an added bonus? Me neither. 'Bout time I made one!!!!! :P
This is the first of 2 parts of the Guide for the Simple switch. I am pretty sure I covered everything as far as small one goes.
Part 2 will include the big one and will compiled with this version.
If you have any questions feel free to post them. If your not currently trying to build and all you wanna do is analyze I am not interested in answering your questions. Make sure before you ask you can provide a picture of the parts, unless its a question about ordering parts.
Make sure to read the whole paper before you attempt to build and defendantly follow the startup and safety guidelines outlined in last part of the writeup. They will save you alot of grief.
Now as far as specific go alot of different things can be used. If you do not know the difference between things then just buy the parts I listed in th PDF. If you do know the difference feel free to change the recipe but do not expect me to be able to help with really weird things.
I at first I said I was going to cover alot of different IC's. I didn't and I am not going to. If you choose to use another IC outside of the listed ones PIC and Stamp you do so knowing you need to find the correct code to make it work.
I give you enough info to find and write the correct code.
Several times I speak about a switch that is not Published and is very powerful. I will not even discuss this switch with you unless you have a working prototype of the outlined switch. Before you the mistake of asking ME IN PRIVATE without providing a workup of the outlined switch I will cut you off and not help you again. When the time comes and some of you manage to get a handle on the SIMPLE LITTLE SWITCH or the big one for that matter, I will contact YOU, and we will go into an agreement before I share anything with you.
Post your work and results. This the key to gaining knowledge of the next step. Nothing not even money will get you any further.
"So if it worked that good in a little crappy motor and what would large transformer do? And the
whole time it was right there in the article about Ronald Brandt."
Matt.
GOOD job. I see what are saying
Everyone should read Matt's Pdf !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have seen in person, and tested the powerful switch that Matt eventually want's everyone to build. It is worth the work to get there. Do not give up!!!.
Thanks Matt for a very easy to understand write up. I'll let you know how it goes after I get it up and running. I decided to use the Stamp chip after all because the Picaxe requires a 5 volt supply and the Stamp can run right from one of the batteries as you show on the schematic.
Carroll
Just because someone disagrees with you does NOT make them your enemy. We can disagree without attacking someone.
Hi folks, Hi matt, thanks for your work and sharing the pdf and all the information and your sense of humor
I am going to try and think of another way to switch this setup, though not sure if it will be as effective as the stamp, etc. type setups, will have to work with what I have.
Is the 25% longer secondary wire meant to boost the voltage closer to 12 volts or more, due to the voltage drop in the switches?
Now for my lighthearted rant, hehe.
Nature gives freely, I hope we humans will emulate that example someday soon.
Most of us are only here because our parents or whoever, gave us food, shelter, etc. freely and unconditionally for a given time.
Yet another example to emulate for humanity as a whole.
True love, is all there is. See above.
peace love light
tyson
Hi folks, Hi matt, ....Is the 25% longer secondary wire meant to boost the voltage closer to 12 volts or more, due to the voltage drop in the switches?
-----
Most of us are only here because our parents or whoever, gave us food, shelter, etc. freely and unconditionally for a given time.
Ya the winding is to boost the output. The deal with transformer is, as pull a load, the potential drops so you might as well start out with the highest potential, within reason, for the load your trying to carry. In this case a 12 volt 1 amp lightbulb. So if we can run the potential up to 15 volt standing then put a load on it, and potential only drops to 9 volt. Now we have everything pretty average with the voltage we're expecting.
And as far as that giving stuff goes, here is your breast milk, you gotta earn the rest. No free meat and potatoes.
Part 2 will be a couple weeks away. I have few things I want to get running before then so I can have some cheaper means for people to drive that switch, as opposed everyone going out and buying 400 dollar switch's and stuff.
So bear with me and I'll get it out as soon as I can.
I was in two minds as to whether to remain in the background on this or not and have decided to 'declare my interest'.
I have built the small version of the circuit with the twin MJL21194's. I couldn't get it working first time around and found all three transformer windings were common. I rewound the transformer with fresh wire and still the three windings were shorted. In desperation I've used a Pittsfield spool with a welding wire core (a la Bedini) just to get things running.
The circuit does work after the first power up. I'm using 2off 2.2W lamps as load and will report more after I've set up a scope. I ordered a STAMP but am using a PICAXE. The only change needed to the code is to divide the pulsout figure by 5 as the PICAXE uses 10uS periods as opposed to the STAMP's 2uS.
Hi Matt
I am currently testing a monopole that attract and then reject the magnet using the Bedini full bipolar switch and hall triggering.
To my surprise I saw that your simple switch motor does exactly that!!
I will built and test it in the coming weeks using mosfets as the series switches.
Just a question for you.
Will it not run much longer if we connect a diode on each negative side of each coil to the top positive line and in that way feed the coils reactive pulses to the respective top battery.
Or add the 3rd winding like in your switch and use that to feed power back to the switch.
I will test both ways.
Cheers Vissie
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