Use for the Tesla Switch

[Matthew Jones]

Well Matt if you are still pulling a load after many months and your batteries still can be shown to have the same capacity than that's a winner in my book. I haven't kept up to speed on all the details here but I agree it would be difficult to measure with instruments in anything less than a very expensive engineering lab. So the time factor over months can be strong evidence. Average lead acid battery life I've found to be around 5 years or a little longer if treated well. I think a test running with new batteries for 6 months to a year would be very well taken.

YA, alot people just don't realize the difference between a conventional grounded circuit and the TS which isn't. They think for some reason academics have it all covered. If that were the case we would be using these circuits today.
Now thats not to say something can't be "come up with" but I do not have that kind of education and even most test engineers can't imagine a way to do it.

I know a test engineer real well. He has not in anyway been able to explain mathematically the entire operation of this circuit. He cannot in anyway get around the grounded load which does not exist in the TS.
He has used step up and step down math to calculate load loss. But...
The recovery in batteries is based on internal resistance which is logarithmic and almost an infinite curve. Believe it or not all math to do with batteries is based assumptions. They have no true formula for actual charge accepted over time. There are to many variables involved in that equation and every time you charge the battery you change those variable. Hopefully most of us have seen that at one time or another, with radiant.

The clock and the load use (IE amps of current @ a given voltage) is the only way to prove within a reasonable doubt.

I myself don't care if its scientifically correct or not. Alot of people want to go there. But I cannot look at that while I burn light bulbs in my house that are fired from coal and oil.
To Hell with the Math if I gotta watch my nieces and nephew, neighbors, and community members, risk cancer everyday just because they breathe.
To hell with all the math.

I better stop or I'll rant a mile long.

Cheers
Matt

[jerdee]

Code Updated

Very nice job Jeremy. Are you finding the "ReadADC10" is giving you better accuracy? Sometimes this may get to fussy on reading the voltages. Did you set the dividers to give you 2.5V out at optimum?

Great work.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff, learned from the best

I believe you are right, I switched to 8bit for ADC and it is much more responsive and less jitter. I read somewhere that the "ReadADC10" is based off of a ratio compared to power supply. Yikes!!! So yes your suggestion to make it 8bit is much improved. Thanks!!

I have updated the code in my original post to reflect change. Now called version 1.1.

Yes, for initial testing, I used a 18K and 10K pot across a 12.5v battery for the voltage divider. I have only been manually adjusting pot and watching response on scope at this time. I'll report more later.

@Jerdee

I would like to hear about the results of this. I have been using Parallax Propeller to do something similar. Its a little different because I can use Floats. But it does work well. No fiddling around.

Matt

Thanks Matt, I will report back. My only major concern is that you will NOT get a true A/C wave due to latency in code instructions. There is 600us between each readadc commands and 120us between pulsout commands. Even though this prevents true A/C....something tells me, this will still work.

Parallax chip! Wow!! 8 cogs = 8 x 32bit floating point processors! 20MIPS per cog. This would definitely allow a smooth A/C signal on the output. Any particular kit we should buy to learn?

Thanks,
Jeremy B.

[Matthew Jones]

Ya I used this one when I got started with it.
Get The Propeller Platform USB!

Its a nice setup.

But the beginner model at Parallax is also nice because it puts out audio and video.

Propeller Demo Board

Just depends on what you want. They also have a professional version.

They even a scope kit somewhere for it. You can build a scope for it.

Its got alot of bells and whistles for sure and libraries that are out there for it are pretty endless in options.

Cheers
Matt

[ehsanco1062]

Hi all
I have a problem here i order 3000w transformer which coast me 200$including shipping to Sweden .
and i had order all the parts which cost me a lot of money .
most of the part i order it from outside Sweden ,your guys in USA are lucky cause you don’t have to pay a lot (i mean a lot of money) just for shipping
for example the 3000w transformer cost me 64$ and shipping it Sweden cost me 140$ can you imagine that.
It was depress to me not finding most of the parts here in Sweden but now I have to buy the 6 AWG wire which I can’t find it here also and if iwant to buy it from USA it will cost me mo than 350$ and my budget don’t handle that at this time so I decided to get 14 AWG wire but I am confused here in Sweden they sell two type of wire one is enamel magnet wire and the other is magnet wire, and only the magnet wire has 14 AWG so does this kind of wire works here instead of the enamel magnet wireor what ?
Appreciate any help .


Ehsan

[Matthew Jones]

Hi all
I have a problem here i order 3000w transformer which coast me 200$including shipping to Sweden .
and i had order all the parts which cost me a lot of money .
most of the part i order it from outside Sweden ,your guys in USA are lucky cause you don’t have to pay a lot (i mean a lot of money) just for shipping
for example the 3000w transformer cost me 64$ and shipping it Sweden cost me 140$ can you imagine that.
It was depress to me not finding most of the parts here in Sweden but now I have to buy the 6 AWG wire which I can’t find it here also and if iwant to buy it from USA it will cost me mo than 350$ and my budget don’t handle that at this time so I decided to get 14 AWG wire but I am confused here in Sweden they sell two type of wire one is enamel magnet wire and the other is magnet wire, and only the magnet wire has 14 AWG so does this kind of wire works here instead of the enamel magnet wireor what ?
Appreciate any help .
Ehsan

The difference between enamel and regular is the temperature it will handle.

Enameled wire - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This should explain it. What you'll see is the regular wire is the low grade and the enamel is the high grade.

Sorry about the prices. I wish I had the time to comb the continents for the best deals. But unfortunately.....

Matt

[ehsanco1062]

[QUOTE=Matthew Jones

Sorry about the prices. I wish I had the time to comb the continents for the best deals. But unfortunately.....

Matt[/QUOTE]

Hi Matt
thanks for the information ,but ya you kan help if you just tell me how many feets I need to by if i will take 10 AWG wire ,not exactly because it will make a lot different.

ehsan

[ehsanco1062]

OH
sorry Matt i forget to tell you that I will use 3000 Watts Step Down Voltage Converter 220v to 110v.

Thanks
Ehsan

[Matthew Jones]

I am would say the most number 10 wire you going to use is about 130 ft or just under 40 meters.

2 40 ft primaries (12.19 meters each)
1 50 ft secondary (15.24 meters each)

That might be a little bit too much but you won't need more than that.
I hope...

I wish I had a good way to calculate wire on a spool but I have not found one and since most of the time we are hand winding and not machine winding it makes it that much more difficult.

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

Follow up on OU research.com

Matt states in his PDF that: "The TS is not a matter of the reaction from the batteries or the transformer. It is not the SWITCHING that makes it happen. Its the reaction you create in the environment you build and the power that reaction returns. That power is then stored and released, in an unimaginable way."

My apologies to Matt if I read this statement out of context but to me it implies that the environment is responsible for the high performance (4x to 8x) as he says "its not the switching that makes it happen". I took the 'make it happen' and "the power that reaction returns" to mean the 4x to 8x performance gain over conventional loading. If the return is not due to the environment then maybe the cycling of the batteries is creating fresh plate material by the process of desulfation?? If Matt has no idea why the return is 4x to 8x then that's fine and its up to others to decide for themeselves whether his claim stands up through experimentation and if so, to decide on why this is. I have already built a small transformer and pulse generator and will be running it up in a day or so.

Matt has put himself out to share his ideas to form a practical project and I congratulate him for that. He has very sensibly raised the important issue of safety in his PDF. In addition to the safety procedures he describes, I would suggest the insertion of fuses for added protection.

Hoppy

@Hoppy
Your mixing apples and oranges, even though you don't mean to.

The switch outlined for everyone to duplicate does NOT follow the statement in the paper

MJ wrote....
The TS is not a matter of the reaction from the batteries or the transformer. It is not the SWITCHING that makes it happen. Its the reaction you create in the environment you build and the power that reaction returns. That power is then stored and released, in an unimaginable way.

This is another switch entirely. The one outlined is simply an ungrounded circuit. You are not throwing away your electricity. You are just redirecting it for use again and again. Just good conservation. No magic if you will.

The true TS is as I outlined in that statement. It is a reaction between the environment and the environment we create in the circuit. We open a path for energy to come in from the environment. This allows us to do things and see results that are not explainable even under TS we are looking at now.

The goal, and I have stated this alot now. If you get the basic one down and learn to use it, And I am impressed with your work I will make sure to show how to drive that particular circuit in a fashion that is unlike anything anyone has seen to date. Or at least let us know about.
Alot of people question the validity of Ronald Brandt story about driving a car around town and up to about 600 miles on a simple 6 battery switch.

I no longer have any doubt he did.....

So do the work, get the reward.

If this thing was explainable from any way other than replication I would explain. But it is not is dangerous and scary and the one person who seen RoseHillWorks will tell ya, its going to be job just managing its use. So if you can't use this simple little switch you do not stand chance with the next version.

Cheers
Matt

[Matthew Jones]

While I am in the mood to type and I am caring on I wanna stress one thing to all of you.

I can be a jerk at times, all of you have seen that. I am not trying to be one this time.

I do not care if you replicate this down to the nose hair. What I want to see is the fact that you can find a circuit that is similar that works. That produces the AC power out with relative ease. That you know how to tune it and how to troubleshoot it.
Thats it. I don't care about components, or results. I do not care about whether you can define the basic theory behind it. I just wanna see that you understand what your doing. Period

A good example is Cifta (Carroll). He didn't feel like winding the transformer. So he made the one he had work. And it did.
HATS OFF!!!!

He didn't have any problems cause he followed the basic safety and startup instructions.


So I want ya'll to know that, if this thing is easy for ya get it done any way you want.
And I will consider it.

But if you don't have a clue the instructions are there for you. If they are not detailed enough ask questions. But just make sure you are satisfied with your work before you show it off.

Thats it. I just wanted to know.

Matt

[rosehillworks]

TO the moon

keep up the good work Matt .

Everyone should build what Matt is trying to help us build . You know it dose not matter what star one would like to go to after you are done with this thing . Matt. Is right the problem is not getting the power out of this thing it is controling it. Do it simple!.
I know Matt knows where he is going with this thing.

[ren]

Hey Ren,

The circuit is designed to not charge the bottom battery on each side. Matt is taking advantage of the spill factor from top batteries. So yes, he is only charging top battery on each side...not parallel as thought.

What he has found is that the top battery will keep the lower battery at a maintained charge due to the spill factor. This prevents batteries over all draining as fast as two in series going to parallel. Think about it...much less voltage drop across all switches and diodes due to only TWO SWITCHES USED!!! This is very important for Matt's replication. So to answer your question...YES..the switch is designed specifically for this.

Also diodes play a major roll here! The more diodes in parallel for bridge the larger the surface area ...which translates to less voltage drop across load.

It's all about maintaining the highest voltage potential.

Jeremy B.

Interesting.

Thanks Matt and Jeremy.

So there seems to be some sort of "sloshing" occuring when the batteries are series connected? It would seem to me that a parallel connection would work even better but as Matt has pointed out, its much easier with just two switches, and still gives results.

Is it worth trying other SSR's out of similar spec, if the HongFa's are hard to find/post? What should I look for, high current/voltage high speed? isolation?


Ren

[Matthew Jones]

Interesting.
Thanks Matt and Jeremy.
So there seems to be some sort of "sloshing" occuring when the batteries are series connected? It would seem to me that a parallel connection would work even better but as Matt has pointed out, its much easier with just two switches, and still gives results.
Is it worth trying other SSR's out of similar spec, if the HongFa's are hard to find/post? What should I look for, high current/voltage high speed? isolation?
Ren

Current and speed matter. But any switch will work. I am personally loving some cheap Mosfets right now. As soon as I learned to really drive them (Thanks Bits) I have had alot of good success with them.

I linked to some in an earlier thread that are running a switch now.

Matt

[ehsanco1062]

I am would say the most number 10 wire you going to use is about 130 ft or just under 40 meters.

2 40 ft primaries (12.19 meters each)
1 50 ft secondary (15.24 meters each)

That might be a little bit too much but you won't need more than that.
I hope...

I wish I had a good way to calculate wire on a spool but I have not found one and since most of the time we are hand winding and not machine winding it makes it that much more difficult.

Matt

Hi Matt
Thanks a lot Matt you are always there when we need you .
you save me 100$.
I appreciate your help

Thanks
Ehsan

[citfta]

Transformer

I have had someone ask about the transformer I used. I used the Radio Shack transformer that Matt had listed in his parts list. The part number is 273-1512B. It has a secondary winding which is a 25 volt winding with a center tap giving 12.5 volts from the center tap to each side. It has 2 yellow wires and one black wire on the secondary side. The black wire is the center tap. I removed the case and found where the black wire attached to the windings. I also found that there were two wires twisted together with the black wire and all three were soldered together. I unsoldered them and carefully separated them. I then attached the original black wire to one of the windings and attached an additional black wire to the other winding. This gave me two separate 12.5 volt windings that were identical. I then reinstalled the case. Now we only have to figure out the phasing so we don't have any problems with surges as Matt has said we might if we don't get the phasing right. If you look at Matt's drawing you want to mark it as follows. On the highest coil mark the left end wire yellow and on the other end of that coil mark that wire black. Now on the next coil down (the other primary coil) mark the left end black and the right end yellow. So when you wire up your transformer to your circuit you should have a yellow lead from the transformer going to the top battery on the left and the other end (black) going to the bottom battery on the right. You should also have a yellow lead from the transformer going to the top battery on the right and the other end (black) going to the bottom battery on the left.

This will give you about 90 to 100 volts AC depending on the charge in your batteries and the load you put on it. An easy load to use without needing a bridge rectifier and cap is a small 110 volt bulb. Something about 10 to 20 watts. Please be careful because that 90 to 100 volts or so can really hurt you if you touch it while it is on. With what Matt is teaching us we are starting to play in the big boy league now and you can get seriously hurt if you are not careful. I was planning to post a drawing of how to rewind the transformer but the file size was too big. I'll try to get it resized and post it later. I wanted to post this for the people who don't want to rewind the transformer but still want to try out this circuit. Maybe this way we can get more people involved and testing. Be sure and follow Matt's instructions for safety and tuning.

Carroll