Use for the Tesla Switch

[Allcanadian]

@jetijs

Today I checked the battery voltage. It has run down by another 0.1V, the circuit was running at 160Hz and the small motor as a load whole night. Something is not quite right.

I think it's important to consider the properties of any load attached to this circuit. The 6v motor you have attached to this circuit has a commutator which essentially shorts the powered windings to the next set of windings to reduce commutator arcing. As such a certain portion of the input energy is always dissipated in the windings as they are shorted outside the context of the source current. You will find that if an AC motor or low self-inductance coil is used these switching losses do not occur, I have found commutated motors are the least efficient loads we can use for this reason. A low turn brushless RC motor works very well in these types of circuits with very few losses.

P.S.-- I should mention that the brushless RC motor must be timed to the circuit impulses as the means of switching is usually performed by an external 3 phase esc (electronic speed controller). These motors have a really high power density, my outrunner heli motor is 1-1/4" in diameter and 1-1/4" long, it puts out 3/4 hp at 50,000 rpm pulling up to 40amps@14v.
Regards
AC

[Jetijs]

Thanks AC
I see if I can get something like that

[John_Bedini]

Tesla switch

Redcar1957
Just send me a private message with your phone, I will call you.
We will get together. I have free calling, wife works for phone comp.
John B

John B I have some GT108's coming if you would like I will
send you some to play with or to see if they are like the
IBM 108's? I do know these are old tho
Kevin

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Jetijs,
You are so close just chase that spike.
John B

A little update.
I played around with switching frequencies using the small 6v motor as a load. I found the frequency that makes the highest spikes (highest peak to peak voltages), that turned out to be somewhere around 300Hz. In my previous scope shots you can see how there are higher positive spikes than negative across transistors 1 and 3 and the opposite on transistor 2. I noticed that if I load the motor by stopping it with my hand, the negative spikes across transistors 1 and 3 get bigger in amplitude by about 2v, the same happens with the positive spikes across transistor 2. The highest peak to peak voltages I could get was about 40v at 306Hz. Here is a scope shot at these settings across transistor 1:



This is what I see across the base and emitter of the same transistor:



And this is what I see across the diode with the cap in parallel that is going to the base of the transistor:



I changed the drive battery to a fully charged one that has been conditioned a bit, will see how it performs.
Thanks,
Jetijs

[Jetijs]

Thanks John
But the thing is that I just tested the battery and it has dropped about 0.2V. I will try other inductive loads that do not have high losses due to the commutator. Also I will experiment with smaller capacitor sizes.


Jetijs

[Peter Lindemann]

AC is Right, of course!

Thanks AC
I see if I can get something like that

Jetijs,

AC makes a good point. Any motor with a wound rotor and commutator has in internal short in the windings. This is one of the issues I address in my Electric Motor Secrets DVD. It creates a condition Tesla refers to as "the dissipation of electricity". These are the real loss mechanisms in any circuit.

By contrast, the TS circuit is designed to CONSERVE the currents and periodically RE-GAUGE the potentials so that electricity is NOT dissipated during the FLOW OF POWER. This way, the gains available from "popping electrons out of the devices" (as John says) is more than enough to make up for the little bit of electricity that is actually lost in the system.

There is plenty of energy available, but NONE TO WASTE!

Peter

[Jetijs]

Thanks Peter
Your words encourage me to dig further and deeper

[nvisser]

I used 2 x 12v batteries today( 24v) to make more voltage available for my load. My 14000uf caps are rated 50v and can handle it.
I tried a motor but could not get much spikes
Then I connected my small ssg straight where we normally put the lamp or motor without a bridge.That means instead of driving it with dc , I pulsed it The result looks promising. One large spike of about 60v appeared after every pulse and it is quite wide to.
That means my load is a coil. The reactive power of the ssg is not very high but I feed that to the battery that drives the flip flop. Not to sure if that is the right thing to do.
Going to bed now
I will see tomorrow morning if the battery lost any voltage

[John_K]

...However what this switch is, is a potential device and the impedance must be correct for the batteries to charge. The facts are you must pop the electrons out of the devices for the extra energy, the capacitors can do this easy when conditioned to be electrets but that is not enough power for what we want. I believe like Tesla that these are neutral particles that get converted in the device, so the load impedance must be right.
John B

Team,

Tattoo those words on your forehead, then have your partner read them back to you when you get frustrated and can't get it to work.

John K.

[ldissing]

Enough games, I want it to work for everyone!

Originally, in the Mueller report, they were using a transformer to run the 110V lights, but the interesting thing was, they had to put a bulb across the charging battery to get the lamp to light up brighter. Therefore, they matched the impedance of the charging battery with the primary. That part is pretty straight forward.

So, the load in this case (the Brandt circuit) isn't what we are matching, it is the batteries that need to be matched, therefore you should be able to run almost anything as the load provided you have the potential difference to light the light, or run the motor, etc. Or, you have the transformer to increase the potential to the load, i.e. the 110V lamp. If you run the load as in the 3 battery test, then that impedance added to the parallel batteries should = the series batteries.

So, perhaps in addition to switching the TS, you need to also switch in a lamp across the 24V batteries, to bring their impedance down to the parallel 12V batteries impedance or at least nearly there, the closer the better. Perhaps it needs to go on the charging side instead...we'll see.

BUT, I think there is still more than that. What I've been saying and NOT saying is that when you run the TS at low frequencies and adjust the duty cycle, you can see a high frequency pulse train more so at some duty cycles than others. This high freq pulse train is not a constant, it doesn't last too long, so I think the switching needs to be fast enough and the duty cycle adjusted correctly to get a sustained HF pulse train going, which basically looks like a tank circuit, but a really fast one - at the frequency of the batteries...ah.

If this is done, and the freq right, then I think the impedance is being matched, which should allow you to ALSO light the lights and run the motors.

With my system, I can just barely have it pulsed, via the duty cycle adjustment, and it will light a 6V light. The higher the duty cycle, the brighter the light. I only had one halogen lamp, and switched that over one of the batteries in series and the output 6V light was brighter, but the lamp really didn't like that very much...looks like it heated it up and made the case less clear...looks like it melted on the inside or something. That was interesting. That battery did discharge faster...duh. I still think this is an interesting phenomenon and needs to be pursued further.

My thoughts as of today...you guys help me out!

Leroy

[lamare]

Lamare,
I have gone back through all the posts now and I find something very intriguing in your posts. Following the second link to an experiment done by "TRICKY MIT, as usual. The man charges a Layden Jar capacitor. Then he takes the capacitor apart and touches the plate together and nothing happens when he shorts it out.

I have posted some answers to this in the "theory" thread over here:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post76020

[RS_]

dot

Bits,

In your Sch, you have a wire connect dot where the lines cross under the D9 diode that does not belong there.........

great work.........

RS

Hello team, here is an updated schematic for the PICAXE-18X controlled TS. I have included its own on board power that will need to be "battelfield tested" in the words of Vtech. As always, use at your own risk and please let me know if there are any changes I need to make.

Thanks

Bit's

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Bits,

In your Sch, you have a wire connect dot where the lines cross under the D9 diode that does not belong there.........

great work.........

RS

RS, thanks. I did catch that when I was laying out the PC board. Drove me nuts trying to find it. Anyway, here is the updated version. I have the board layed out and the finished silk screens and traces debug. Should be able to build it in a couple of days.

Thanks again,

Bit's

Edit: Added the board layout.

[blackchisel97]

Nice Very nicely done, Bit's.


Vtech

[ldissing]

Something strange happens when equilibrium is obtained

@John Bedini (or anybody that wants to answer)

Everything is running along fine, one side is higher than the other. Then, they are equal, and all hell breaks loose. One side jumps .1 volts every 2 seconds or so, and the other side declines by about the same. I have not let it just keep going down, do you think I should just watch it and see if something changes?

If I adjust it too much, then the other sides starts increasing by about the same amount, and the side that was increasing before...now decreases rapidly.

Once, I had it adjusted so that each side would enter this mode occasionally....need to get the comparator in there to adjust based on these voltages....it was wild.

The waveform also changes totally, from a "basically" square wave to just spikes and these can be adjust to either the up side (one side charging) or to the down side (other side charging). It is amazing to watch, but I can't just let it run, because I don't know what it will do?

Any ideas, circuits, suggestions are welcome.

Leroy

P.S. Power output also increases at this juncture. Need to keep them level, but do not currently know how to do that!