Use for the Tesla Switch

[Matthew Jones]

Thats what I thought you were talking about. If you look at the load tests they check the batterries while running. And even while running the batteries continued to sustain or loose.
Thats not to say they weren't conserving energy. Obviously they were.

The electrodyne report that used to be in the Practical guide to free energy (PGFE) stated that they had to add energy to the system on a regular basis. They also used the 6 switch version.

But... the originall circiut was 4 switch, according to the PGFE. With 4 switch's it is not possible to have a grounded circiut. No one has every came out and said it on this particular circiut but if you peice it together with the theories and working operations of other devices, then the conculsion should be obvious.

I wish their was solid state way of doing it.

Matt

[Tehnoman]

Ok, that could be. Time will show the correct answer.

[jibbguy]

Regarding floating the solid-state switching off-ground

True "input-to-output" Isolation Amplifier circuits are "ungrounded" and "Differential" in the sense that the main signal circuit has no current path to ground (specifically those officially termed "Differential, Floating Ground", with Common Mode Rejection of <120 dB); except through separate semi-conductors. The problem is they are usually of very low current and voltage. But it should be possible to step-up the component ratings using the same model and still give desired results; after-all the carefully-chosen components used in isolation amps are picked for signal "cleanliness", stability, and linearity... But who cares in this case

Note that all audio amplifiers are "single-ended to ground" (like most 'scopes that plug into the wall) and are not truly "Isolated", which has a very specific definition in the trade... So they won't work (basically they have only resistance or an RC network between the signal and ground... Making the mistake that this is really "isolation" can smoke a scope faster than you can curse ).

What is needed instead as a model, is the schematic of an "Universal DC" or "ECG" (also called "EKG") signal conditioner used in test & measurement / medical research (...and only the older designs using discrete transistors or MOSFETS and not purpose-built IC's or optical isolators.. only because you will never find a similar IC with any significant current rating and they cannot be paralleled without serious additional problems).

"Primer" on Isolation schemes:

Learn the Importance of Isolation in Data Acquisition Applications in Four Easy Lessons

This one shows the circuit basics to get an idea but unfortunately uses IC's instead of discretes.. The point being that in general; two identical amplification circuits are used, one for "Signal High + " and the other for "Signal Low - " , which then feed a third amplifier output stage... They are powered by separate isolated, regulated VCC power supplies (...which very likely use a small isolation transformer at some point in them):

Artikel5

What i need is to get my hands on a service manual for a "Gould" Universal Amplifier #13-4615-58 (...over 20 years old now); a "Grass" Universal Amplifier of many types, or a "Hewlett Packard" ECG amplifier (from about 15 years ago when Grass and HP were still in that business)... For which any of those schematics could be used as a "step-up" model. Unfortunately i can't find these on the web, as they always make you pay at least $50 for the service manuals It would show the design of a differential circuit, as well as the VCC supply. Basically, the older the design the better for this purpose.

I used to have a decent differential isolation amp schematic in an old text book showing it done with discrete's; but it was lost after 5 moves across the country lol. Maybe someone else has got one out there?

[sigzidfit]

Simple is Good

RIGHT ON Matthew Jones!

Good work on the tesla switch.

I am of the opinion that mechanical switching is the key.

Mechanical switching meets two of the three requirements listed by Peter Lindemann as requirements for proper function of the circuit:

1) abrupt switching
2) electron current blocking

As for #3 "impedance matching and balancing" the simplicity of your design reduces the number of variables.

A mechanical switching arrangement is an element common among other so-called free energy motors like the "EV Gray Motor" and the "Adams Motor".

Also the success that ashtweth points to (the You-tube video) has a mechanical switch, the relay.

I also recall Peter Lindemann in one of his videos saying something about Tesla referring to a mechanical compression wave in regards to the whole radiant energy thing.

Here are some patents I think may have relevant information:

2836734
3611091
4297590
4101787

Google's patent search is quick and easy Google Patents and provides handy links to patents cited and referenced by others.

Be aware that sometimes with google the drawings aren't rendered properly (mostly the really important ones) so if you need a better copy try http://pat2pdf.org

Tesla has a patent or two for commutators (regulator for dynamo electric machines) you might get an idea from.

PEACE
PJ

[ashtweth]

Maintains battery charge and delivers power on the shaft.http://www.matthewcjones.com/power/TeslaSwitch_5_5.MPGMatt

Matt that means put a fan on the end of the shaft in front of miny (non reflective) wind mill you have a free energy device

[ldissing]

Solid State version

I was able to get the 3PDT switch working, however, the relays I was using we not able to go faster than about 20 ms on/off time which left me with only 50 cycles per second roughly. I was actually able to get it to about 70 before the relays lock up.

It seemed to run really well, as long as the load being pulled out of it was less than the C20 rate and the motor ran pretty well, except when there was a hiccup with the relays...which occurred frequently. I actually ran a 20 watt halogen 12 V bulb for over 3 hours with only a tenth of a volt drop on the batteries and the batteries were 17 ah gels.

With the relays, I was getting spikes over 100V at the bridge output, but the motor didn't seem to mind that at all.


So, I wanted to go solid state. It took some major wrangling, but I did get it to work...sort of. Instead of 12V on the output, I'm only getting about 6, so the load isn't what I'm looking for. I'm thinking I need some optos to drive the transistors so they are fully on and off during the on pulse.

I'm just using a 555 timer and have it at exactly a 50/50 duty cycle using a scope for that measurement.

The waveforms are WAY different with the solid state. It oscillates wildly on transitions and for quite a ways after the transition. Pretty cool.

If anybody could help me with the driving of the transistors I'd be thankful. In order for it to work, I had to look at the Mueller pdf pretty carefully and look at the way JB hooked up that 5th battery to the circuit. I'm thinking he used transformers so that the voltage would be sufficient to drive the transistors and to isolate it from the battery and the oscillator part of the circuit (SG3524).

I may try to find some transformers and do the same, but I'd like to use optos if possible. Still need to figure out a way to get the voltage high enough to drive all the transistors when the batteries are at 24 volts though. This one leaves me in a conundrum.

Hope this is not too much rambling for you all.

L

[Jetijs]

Hi ldissing.
I don't think that you can get perfect 50:50 duty cycle using a 555 timer alone, it will be near 50:50, but not exactly 50:50. The get the perfect 50:50 you will also need to use a flip flop. Here is a logic switching circuit I used to drive the transistors for my Tesla switch:


The capacitor value on the 555 timer will determine the frequency, but the actual frequency will be 2x smaller, because the flip flop will turn ON only on every second impulse, but this will be a perfect 50:50 duty cycle. The CD4001 chip commutates everything so that there is a small pause between switching, because at higher frequencies the transistors might not be able to turn ON/OFF as fast as you want, so there is a pause for them to do so. This insures that one transistor can not turn on, if the other isn't completely OFF. The CD4001 has two outputs, normal one and an inverted output. You can use one for driving one set of transistors and other for the other set of transistors.
Hope this helps.

[Matthew Jones]

With the relays, I was getting spikes over 100V at the bridge output, but the motor didn't seem to mind that at all

I have noticed that as well. A load, any load will only draw off what it can handle. You cannot force more current through it than it can take.
On 24 volt system I can run a six volt load and runs exactly the same as it would if it ran off a six volt battery.

Theres somthing to that, I'm not sure what though.

Matt

[ldissing]

Hi ldissing.
I don't think that you can get perfect 50:50 duty cycle using a 555 timer alone,

Yes, of course, it helps and thank you. I'm using a diode between pins 7 and 6 to get the 50/50 timing, so it is precise, although, I like your solution better, because that makes it easier to adjust timing. The flip flop will always give 50/50 timing, so I can adjust the pulse by varying a pot on the 555 and the flip flop will do it's thing all the time. No more tweaking....

I'll study your schematic more and see what it is really saying.

Thanks again,

L

[ldissing]

Jetijs,

What ever happened to your tesla switch with NPNs. Looks like you know what you are doing with the driving portion of the circuit.

If you could repost with some values for the resistors on the backend of the circuit, that would be great. I know about doing the 555 timing, caps, resistors there, but the backend stuff would be helpful to me.

Thank you again,

L

[Jetijs]

my setup dod not work, but that is because I used resistive load instead of inductive load and way too much of it for batteries of the capacity I had. Back then I did not know much about electronics, my fiend, a radio electronic expert, helped me with the circuit. Anyway, this was the full circuit:
http://www.emuprim.lv/bildez/images/.../sleedzis2.GIF

I would be glad if someone tested it properly

[ldissing]

Load Current in Tesla Switch

So, if the batteries are only being utilized 50% of the time, then should you be able to pull twice the current in the load?

I'm talking about the C20 rate, of course.

If I'm using a 17aH battery (4 of them), then the current I can supposedly pull from one (or two in series) is 17/20 = 850ma. If I'm only them at a 50% rate, then can I actually pull 1.7 amps without violating the battery specs? It seems like this should be true, but maybe it isn't. Does anybody know?

Thanks,

L

[Sephiroth]

i'm playing around with the tesla switch at the moment and have wondered the same. Unfortunately, I think the opposite is true.

Someone correct me if I am wrong as I am basing this on my understanding of capacitors.

If you have two 10,000 uf caps and wire them in parellel then you will effectively have a 20,000uf cap... however, when wired in series the capacity is HALFED so you have a 5,000uf cap.

To apply this to batteries, lets say we have two 10ah 12v batteries. If you wire them in parellel then you get a 20ah 12v battery. But if the same rules apply to batteries as they do capacitors, then if we wire them in series we get a 5ah 24v battery which will half the c20 rate instead of double it

but it puzzles me because if they are wired in parellel then we could (theoretically) get 12v at 20 amps for 1 hour which would give us 864000 joules. but if they are wired in series then we could pull 24v at 5 amps for one hour which is only 345600 joules...

something can't be right there because we should theoretically be able to fully charge the batteries in series with 345600 joules, then wire them in parellel and get 864000 joules out of them!

[Matthew Jones]

I am pretty sure that same logic (on caps) does not apply to battery or a power source.
2 12volt batteries with 10 amp hour of energy, In Series will deliver 24 volt for 10 hours at 1 amp.
You can test it. I have used the same formula to calculate expected discharge rates and seems to work out. I could be wrong according to the rules.

As far as amp draw in a Tesla switch you should be able to pull any load within the battery range.
17 amp hour battery should be able to deliver 17 amps of flow for 1 hour. If they don't deliver that you'll have to guage it for yourself how much you can pull.

I'm using lawn and tractor batteries, I have pulled some pretty big loads. The biggest thing that limits me is the heat from the bridge rectifier and the speed of the switching. The faster you switch the more power you have availible to you. Unlike a load a battery the load on the rectifier will reduce the voltage availible at the bridge and give a good indicator of how much more you can pull. 0 volts you have full load for your rectifier.

Also the component will only pull what it needs, you cannot force more through it, like hooking straight to battery. Thats a funny thing, but the best I can tell its the truth.


MAtt

[gmeat]

Hi Guys,


I found an interesting read about series caps installed in a wind turbine.this guy seems to be saying that hes getting more wattage ouput of the turbine by having it set up this way.

the Otherpower.com Discussion Board || Using Caps on a Wind Genny


-Gary