Use for the Tesla Switch

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Gang,
I will post a charger that Energenx makes for Solar, as everybody knows the efficiency of the panel is limited because it can't charge the battery correct. The solar panel does not work with white light it only works in the far inferred range. With a little engineering the panels will charge batteries in low light. The best way to see these gains is when you put nothing in. If you look at all the circuits I have posted you will see what John is talking about. Everybody should be working on what I call the Solar oscillator. The Joule Thief, independent invention from the SG energizer, but one in the same. I have seen Solar oscillators charge in the moon light. Once the panel is in low light your dead in the water as you can not charge anything. But if you take the low light convert it with an SG circuit you will charge batteries in low light. The Tesla Switch can also be made to work this way as I have done this many times, it's all about switching.
I will post what I can to help.
JB

[ldissing]

Solar

Gang,
I will post a charger that Energenx makes for Solar, as everybody knows the efficiency of the panel is limited because it can't charge the battery correct. The solar panel does not work with white light it only works in the far inferred range. With a little engineering the panels will charge batteries in low light. The best way to see these gains is when you put nothing in. If you look at all the circuits I have posted you will see what John is talking about. Everybody should be working on what I call the Solar oscillator. The Joule Thief, independent invention from the SG energizer, but one in the same. I have seen Solar oscillators charge in the moon light. Once the panel is in low light your dead in the water as you can not charge anything. But if you take the low light convert it with an SG circuit you will charge batteries in low light. The Tesla Switch can also be made to work this way as I have done this many times, it's all about switching.
I will post what I can to help.
JB

Too bad "they" won't let the 98% efficient solar panels out to the public. Then we could get all the power we need to charge the batteries correctly using your devices and have continuous power in sun and darkness. Those 98% efficient solar panels would also work better in no sun than the 10-18% efficient we have now.

I know that you know that these efficiencies exist.

Leroy

[ldissing]

Murlin,
You are correct. The diodes are very important. However if you switch the semiconductor with the correct pulse it will go negative. I guess it's time to post a video of the current and voltage gain. The batteries will perform much better under pulse charge. I find the magic between 1/2 second and 1 second depending on the batteries. You might do research on the neg-sistor as the energy is in the negative end. I will set up some pages to show this. I can not say much as some of this is found in my patents. The potential charger is my patent, it covers allot of thing including solar. Since I stay under my patent but with inverted circuits this is the only change I have made to some of the systems. The mechanical switch will work for a short time then contacts fail. I have used mercury switches and other gigantic relays but they all fail, the semiconductor is the only thing that stays working. I have seen gains higher then COP of 2 as I have watched the battery pushed beyond 17.5 volts. I'm going to try and do a short video on my pages.
JB

JB, that would be most EXCELLENT if you could post some pictures and/or a short video. I'm looking forward to them.

Leroy

[ldissing]

3pdt

Because I'm more of an electro-mechanical guy, I will be replicating the Mueller/Moore 4 battery system next, which uses a 3PDT relay driven by a pulse rate controller. A simple 555 timer could be used as the pulse rate controller and for me, looks as easy as pie.

Baby steps....

John K.

Hey John K.,

Hope I'm not breaking my own rule about talking about off the wall crap with this post. I can't even follow the guidelines I set for myself.

When you replicate the switch with the 3PDT relay, make sure you use an o-scope to get the actual switching as close as you can to 50%, taking care to see the actual switching of the relay, and not just the 555 pulsing at 50%. There is some lag time with the springs in the relays, and in the closing of the relay with the coil, so these need to be equalized by adjusting the on/off time of the 555 signal. It is pretty short, but the closer to 50/50, all the better. This was the first thing I did and I did get the relays down to about 8ms if I remember correctly. Remember, you can take that relay and redirect the spike and a lot of sparking from it to charge another battery up too. It worked great, using a 12V 20 watt halogen (could not look at it it was so bright) on 17ah batteries. Batteries barely dropped from 13.10 volts (even sealed lead acids aren't supposed to SIT at that voltage), after 4 hours, then I did something stupid, knocked something over and fried some wire and other things. I also ran this with the capacitors and it made a difference on the sparking inside the relay whether the capacitor(s) was there, or not there. So there is a lot to play with on this one as well. So much to learn, discover, rediscover and perfect.

Leroy

[Murlin]

Mr. Bedini,

The mechanical switch will work for a short time then contacts fail.

Thank you for the reply. Given your standing in this field, I find it encouraging that I may be on the right path. Although fate has chosen a different path for me given my limitations, the destination is the same.

I can see how mechanical devices fatigue over time. Transistors seem to offer the best route in switching applications that require billions of cycles in a short time frame. So I will agree that transistors are the right choice for the Tesla Switch. However, I have ulterior motifs in mind so I need the switching part to be done with carbon as I plan to rob it of some of its electrons…

For the sake of longevity I have designed my commutator around the graphite brush/copper armature system found in brushed electric motors. Except both the graphite brushes and the copper contacts, can be replaced when they wear out. I machined the brushes out of EC3 graphite, a much higher grade of carbon than general purpose brushes are made from. Since I have a CNC mill, complex parts are easily manufactured, and ideas on paper can come to life rather quickly with the help of 3-D geometry that I create in Mastercam X4.
I have allowed approximately 1” of wear on the brush and 1/8” on the “armature” if you want t call it that. At that time, new components can be installed easily in a matter of a few minutes, and the machine can continue on its course. I would say that if a conventional brushed DC motor were to be used to drive the switch, it would wear out its brushes 10 times or more before needing to replace the components in the switch itself.

I'm going to try and do a short video on my pages

You mean on your website?

Sweet!! That would be awesume.. you da man

regards,

Murlin

[John_K]

Thanks Leroy for the tips.

I have the 3PDT circuit all wired up and for now I'm just pulsing the relay by hand. I'm messing around with a few different loads to see what each different load is doing.

On one test I had a volt meter over the load, which was a #47 bulb. I found it very interesting that the voltage over the bulb was ~+12V, but when the relay was switched, it was ~-10V. So this shows the how it works as a potential switch and also helped me understand JB's drawing where he shows the ammeter going positive and then negative.

Gotta get some 555's to play with the timing, hopefully tomorrow.

John K.

[ldissing]

Thanks Leroy for the tips.

[...]

On one test I had a volt meter over the load, which was a #47 bulb. I found it very interesting that the voltage over the bulb was ~+12V, but when the relay was switched, it was ~-10V. So this shows the how it works as a potential switch and also helped me understand JB's drawing where he shows the ammeter going positive and then negative.

Gotta get some 555's to play with the timing, hopefully tomorrow.

John K.

@John K.,

You are welcome.

Well, that positive/negative ammeter, is just showing the difference in the potential direction, right? That was the purpose of JBs 3 battery system, so we would know which way the potential was moving from the neg of the 12V battery (i.e. positive) to the - of the 24V side (i.e. negative) which will switch when we change sides.

When you are hooked up across those negatives with the 3PDT, it is switching +12 to -12 on a voltmeter, but are you also possibly saying that this is where JB is measuring the potential? Maybe I was wrong in the last post?....I've been known to be wrong before.

Anyway, that is why you saw in my drawing two bridges (on the other forum) because I wanted a single load with the potential in one direction only. A few posts ago, someone cifta (can't remember the name) posted another way to do it which was better than the two bridges, but does add a potential drop to the "original" circuit shown by JB, but one less than the bridge.

I think another interesting thing to do, would be to use two different loads, so you can see one side charging and the other side discharging. Then swap the loads and watch them reverse.

Sent you a PM, please let me know.

Lero to you too.

[stonewater]

info from old radio show

Hi John,

I was listening to the old jenkins show and you mentioned a device that bedini electronics put out, it was a small pre amp, where you put the switch one way and it ran the load and the other way it charged the batteries. it had nicads inside it I believe.

are we talking about the same technology with the tesla switch.
Tom C

[John_K]

@John K.,

You are welcome.

Well, that positive/negative ammeter, is just showing the difference in the potential direction, right? That was the purpose of JBs 3 battery system, so we would know which way the potential was moving from the neg of the 12V battery (i.e. positive) to the - of the 24V side (i.e. negative) which will switch when we change sides.

When you are hooked up across those negatives with the 3PDT, it is switching +12 to -12 on a voltmeter, but are you also possibly saying that this is where JB is measuring the potential? Maybe I was wrong in the last post?....I've been known to be wrong before.

Anyway, that is why you saw in my drawing two bridges (on the other forum) because I wanted a single load with the potential in one direction only. A few posts ago, someone cifta (can't remember the name) posted another way to do it which was better than the two bridges, but does add a potential drop to the "original" circuit shown by JB, but one less than the bridge.

I think another interesting thing to do, would be to use two different loads, so you can see one side charging and the other side discharging. Then swap the loads and watch them reverse.

Sent you a PM, please let me know.

Lero to you too.

Lero, I don't want to jump to any conclusions until I understand this more, but it does seem obvious that this is where the power can be drawn from. The ammeter is basically showing that we are dealing with a form of AC. Obviously placing a bulb as the load makes no difference because it doesn't care which way the potential is flowing.

The 3PDT version I am working with is a mechanical version of the TS. No diodes, no (negative) transistors, etc. Perfect to learn what is going on in the circuit and how it behaves with different potentials and currents. ABout the only thing I have is the spike coming off the relay coil, which could be advantageous. The relay coil is driven from Battery #3.

Back to the shed then...

John K.

[citfta]

Hi Leroy,

Thanks for taking the time to look at my circuit. I appreciate your comments. I have learned so much from this forum and especially this thread. Most of the time I can only read and try to learn. But sometimes I can see another way to do something. I am retired after working most of my adult life repairing electrical and electronic equipment. After reading John's comments about the scalar charger I have finally gotten mine to charge batteries. Hooray! Thanks to everyone for all their input to this thread.


citfta (Carroll)

[ldissing]

Easiest, highest potential

Lero, I don't want to jump to any conclusions until I understand this more, but it does seem obvious that this is where the power can be drawn from. The ammeter is basically showing that we are dealing with a form of AC. Obviously placing a bulb as the load makes no difference because it doesn't care which way the potential is flowing.

The 3PDT version I am working with is a mechanical version of the TS. No diodes, no (negative) transistors, etc. Perfect to learn what is going on in the circuit and how it behaves with different potentials and currents. ABout the only thing I have is the spike coming off the relay coil, which could be advantageous. The relay coil is driven from Battery #3.

Back to the shed then...

John K.

I also thought this was the easiest quickest way to see something too, but as JB says, "relays wear out". Good experiment though, and learning too, without all the transistor/diode drops, etc. Good luck and happy experimenting/testing/learning/etc.

Lero

[thaelin]

Resonant state

Hi all:
Cant hold out any more as this seems to fit so close to what I have been chasing for some time. I do hope I am not impeding on the direction that JB wants this to go.
For many months now I have been looking into how resonance affects cap/coil pairs. Both parallel and series. So many things fit into the picture here. I have in the past built three of these units. All did well in prolonging the use of the batteries. At one point, I did see 8X the use. Sadly I had to use mechanical switching in all of them as the transistors would burn. More sad, the relays would also burn after time
With the new ideas put forth for the solid state, can see where I went wrong.

Now to the point I wanted to make. I have looked into power factor correction and saw first hand what can go wrong. Among some of the things that can cause the over voltage and over current are switching power supplies, inductive loads and believe it or not, full wave bridges. That caught my attention. Now that tells me that using an inductive load and a bridge also, you wind up with a tank on the output. For that tank to function properly, it has to have its "resonant frequency" for an input. When it does, you now have circulating power in the tank. Add the harmonics caused...

I would humbly ask John if he could say "yay or nay" to my point of view here.

Back to my corner now.

thaelin

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

All,
I think what I'm trying to say here is if you learn the correct switching for the devices "They will add the extra energy". Semiconductors can and do some very strange things in circuits, like unexplained sudden burn outs in the circuit out of nowhere. If we all look around all this heat is being wasted around us, that is one hell of allot of power going to waste. Semiconductors react to heat. I have made solar cells by cutting the top of transistors, I have also built oscillators right into the transistor cases. Peter and I have spent two years doing all these experiments to find what could be done with switching. The COP of 2 is not very good as you would like to take this to infinity. People have built antennas that gather this heat as energy, but we do not have industry behind this, I always said we must work with junk box parts, in other words we get hand me down parts from industry. The Switching must work down to .7 volts and still work, radiant oscillators will do this and charge capacitors, which can be discharged into batteries. What we are looking at is a dual charger working at low levels.
JB

[Matthew Jones]

What you will notice is a sharp funny looking square wave, not what I have seen so far, I will try to take pictures for you all. The minimum scope must be at least 100Mhz to see anything. I was showing Peter yesterday when you get it switching right you will see the scope go negative 1 1/2 times the input

Mr John.

I was wondering if you could give us a little more insight into "Going Negative".
I have seen this effect in my simple motor and in fact it is a key to gaining anything. As most of this energy goes back to the primary battery and has more effect on it than anything. The potential that shows up flows to the lower potential battery, which is usually the run battery, because charging in the charge battery goes up very rapidly due to the stepping up of voltage. The energy comes in on the coil. So my question is....

What it is in a transistor that is happening that will allow the same effect?
Whats the theory on how the energy flows in?
I have at one time experience weird stuff from one of my switch's and it ran along time. It drained some alkaline batteries to 0 that were in a shelf underneath the setup. Could this be a bi product of that effect?

Thanks Much

Matt

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Yes,
The power factor is very important, and it does effect coil/cap pairs.
The important thing is you must capture all the wasted energy in a circuit.
Switching power supplies must be corrected and the cost is high.

It takes a different person to build switching supplies, since I'm at slow speeds I do not worry too much. The first thing, the layout is very important as traces act like inductors and currents show up where you do not want them.

Fet's are the next problem as the gate cap becomes very large and you can not turn them off. You can do simple experiments with Fet's and you will see what I said about gate discharge, that is why I use the diode and cap in parallel in positive circuits as the load wants to be in the drain and not the source in cap discharge circuits.
I always try to run them inverted, Example if you put the Drain on the negative of the battery all you need is a potential over the battery and it will switch correctly.

You want the battery as the load and not the other way around. When I say Inverted I want to use the differentials of potential in the circuits. The biggest thing about semiconductors is the second emitter break down, you must make 1 amp at DC, remember what I said here, 1 amp at DC.JB

Hi all:
Cant hold out any more as this seems to fit so close to what I have been chasing for some time. I do hope I am not impeding on the direction that JB wants this to go.
For many months now I have been looking into how resonance affects cap/coil pairs. Both parallel and series. So many things fit into the picture here. I have in the past built three of these units. All did well in prolonging the use of the batteries. At one point, I did see 8X the use. Sadly I had to use mechanical switching in all of them as the transistors would burn. More sad, the relays would also burn after time
With the new ideas put forth for the solid state, can see where I went wrong.

Now to the point I wanted to make. I have looked into power factor correction and saw first hand what can go wrong. Among some of the things that can cause the over voltage and over current are switching power supplies, inductive loads and believe it or not, full wave bridges. That caught my attention. Now that tells me that using an inductive load and a bridge also, you wind up with a tank on the output. For that tank to function properly, it has to have its "resonant frequency" for an input. When it does, you now have circulating power in the tank. Add the harmonics caused...

I would humbly ask John if he could say "yay or nay" to my point of view here.

Back to my corner now.

thaelin