Use for the Tesla Switch

[blackchisel97]

I ask this question before and I see some guys also noticed it
On John`s latest circuit that he posted he left the parallel transistors out and only inserted extra diodes
In the attachment below I drew only the top positive part. If you follow the path when Q1 switch on, it looks like a short over the top left battery through D1, D2, D3, D4 and Q1
The same will happen in the bottom negative part, but at least there we will have 2 light bulbs instead of diodes.
John if you read this can you please shed some light on this
I already built a small pc board for this circuit, but will probably only get time to build it after Christmas.
I wish everybody on this forum a very happy Christmas and a successful free energy year

I had this circuit done with SCR's instead of serial tranny's and diodes. Before I measured anything (which was a mistake) I connected load (probably too big) Since I got too much current going, there was nothing to restrict it and feedback burnt one of SCR's and couple diodes. If we're suppose to move potential, not a current - I guess it will depend on the load and timing. Switching has to be abrupt to prevent current build up. If we allow too much current up in smoke will go. Those are just my thoughts, I'm trying to get this done, not to create a theory. I may be wrong. When I first got this circuit, John said, that we can't eliminate parallel switches, just yet but he is working on it. That was when we talked about SCR's replacing serial tranny's.
I tried first to work on the circuit from Eike Mueller but replacing oscillator with SG fix and following updates by John Bedini, as well as replacing transformers with opto. Which solid state circuit variation are you guys testing?

I wish everyone to enjoy this holiday time and accumulate enough energy to get us all going strong in 2010


Vtech

[Plazma]

Coming Round the Far Turn . . .

Hi VTech, et al . . .

I am a couple hours away from starting my tests on a 4-batt ss PIC-based
Tesla Switch. I would have been deep into testing by now had I not been interrupted by a medical emergency (lost ~2 wks). My rig uses PIC hardware of my own design as interfaced into a totally optically-isolated dual stack of diodes, 1 MJL tranny, and 2 sealed LAB's per stack. I, like you, have puzzled over the load issue and I've decided to go with a small LED with current limiting resistor in each pathway at the bottom of the stacks. That means two, r-LED pairs "nose-to-toes" in reverse parallel. I might fry some LEDs until I learn how to soak up about 4 volts Delta V - we'll see. I'm not sure of the part# specs of the big, bright LEDs that JB uses.

Anyway, my very best to everyone - May Holiday Cheer and Unlimited Abundance Bless You and Yours . . .

Plazma

. . . Which solid state circuit variation are you guys testing?

I wish everyone to enjoy this holiday time and accumulate enough energy to get us all going strong in 2010


Vtech

[nvisser]

Plazma
A normal led has a voiltage drop of 1.1v over it. I think with a current limiting resistor you will loose voltage that is needed to charge the parralel batteries.
The bright leds has got a drop of around 3v. In my scaler charger setup i can run them at full duty cycle at 1Hz without a resistor. They go bright and when I measure with the scope over them I measure 3 v pulses

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Hi VTech, et al . . .

I am a couple hours away from starting my tests on a 4-batt ss PIC-based
Tesla Switch. I would have been deep into testing by now had I not been interrupted by a medical emergency (lost ~2 wks). My rig uses PIC hardware of my own design as interfaced into a totally optically-isolated dual stack of diodes, 1 MJL tranny, and 2 sealed LAB's per stack. I, like you, have puzzled over the load issue and I've decided to go with a small LED with current limiting resistor in each pathway at the bottom of the stacks. That means two, r-LED pairs "nose-to-toes" in reverse parallel. I might fry some LEDs until I learn how to soak up about 4 volts Delta V - we'll see. I'm not sure of the part# specs of the big, bright LEDs that JB uses.

Anyway, my very best to everyone - May Holiday Cheer and Unlimited Abundance Bless You and Yours . . .

Plazma

Plaz, good to see your on your way. For the charge bulb, I had to change it to a 6volt 220 mA bulb padded by a 100 Ohm 2watt resistor, for the other (across J5) I put a 1157 normal auto bulb, I think it's about 45Watt bulb. It never comes on, but then again I don't expect it to. (It comes on in a hurry if the tranny's remain biased) After replacing the D9 and D10 diodes with SCR's I also had to change the code for the pulse to;

high 4
pause 1500
low 4
high 6
pause 1500
low 6

I am still tweaking and tuning but we are making progress!

Good luck.

Bit's

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Plazma
A normal led has a voiltage drop of 1.1v over it. I think with a current limiting resistor you will loose voltage that is needed to charge the parralel batteries.
The bright leds has got a drop of around 3v. In my scaler charger setup i can run them at full duty cycle at 1Hz without a resistor. They go bright and when I measure with the scope over them I measure 3 v pulses

Vissie, just as soon as I posted to Plazma, I re-read this post. I think that you are absoulty correct on the current limiting resistor. Right now, I am getting about 11.65 volts and seeking 14. Well I think my resistor padding the light is soaking the additional 2 volts up that I need. This is such a great place.

Thanks

Bit's

[blackchisel97]

Bit's, is this correct update? -

Vtech

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

This is the way I have them

Bit's, is this correct update? -Vtech

Avoid the need for another opto this way.

Bit's

[blackchisel97]

Thanks Bit's Just wondering if there would be any difference driving SCR's gates from emitter of H11D1, before 1uF/diode, since SCR doesn't need them and can be triggered directly from the opto. Maybe it's not important at all. Just checked on my SC and noticed DMM acting strange; I have it across the battery and it goes from 12.18 - 12.21 in circles. I have 2 reversed LED's across the inductive load and switching about 2Hz. I didn't check exactly but d.c is around 50%.

Vtech

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Thanks Bit's Just wondering if there would be any difference driving SCR's gates from emitter of H11D1, before 1uF/diode, since SCR doesn't need them and can be triggered directly from the opto. Maybe it's not important at all. Just checked on my SC and noticed DMM acting strange; I have it across the battery and it goes from 12.18 - 12.21 in circles. I have 2 reversed LED's across the inductive load and switching about 2Hz. I didn't check exactly but d.c is around 50%.

Vtech

They could be triggered that way. Good, you are seeing the same thing that I am now. All we have to do is tune the loads.

Great job!

Bit's

[Plazma]

Parts iz Parts . . .

Hi nvisser,

Thanks for the reminder ref Vf-LED . . . so, maybe a chain of LEDs -
better yet, what did you say the part number was on the ultra-brite LED?

Cheers,

Plazma

Plazma
A normal led has a voiltage drop of 1.1v over it. I think with a current limiting resistor you will loose voltage that is needed to charge the parralel batteries.
The bright leds has got a drop of around 3v. In my scaler charger setup i can run them at full duty cycle at 1Hz without a resistor. They go bright and when I measure with the scope over them I measure 3 v pulses

[Plazma]

Which SCR . . .

Hi Bits,

Thanks for the info - also, with the flurry of activity ongoing I must have missed the recommended part number for the scr. The scr mods will be the next phase after I get the current build running. Any recommendation on an SCR welcome. I have some of the 800Volt ones on hand that JB used in the Free Energy Generation Book but not sure they are best for the TSw.

Cheers,

Plazma

Plaz, good to see your on your way. For the charge bulb, I had to change it to a 6volt 220 mA bulb padded by a 100 Ohm 2watt resistor, for the other (across J5) I put a 1157 normal auto bulb, I think it's about 45Watt bulb. It never comes on, but then again I don't expect it to. (It comes on in a hurry if the tranny's remain biased) After replacing the D9 and D10 diodes with SCR's I also had to change the code for the pulse to;

high 4
pause 1500
low 4
high 6
pause 1500
low 6

I am still tweaking and tuning but we are making progress!

Good luck.

Bit's

[John_K]

3PDT Relay Tesla Switch

Thanks Bit's Just wondering if there would be any difference driving SCR's gates from emitter of H11D1, before 1uF/diode, since SCR doesn't need them and can be triggered directly from the opto. Maybe it's not important at all. Just checked on my SC and noticed DMM acting strange; I have it across the battery and it goes from 12.18 - 12.21 in circles. I have 2 reversed LED's across the inductive load and switching about 2Hz. I didn't check exactly but d.c is around 50%.

Vtech

Vtech,

Thanks for the tip on the 2 reversed LEDs.

After draining my TS batteries over 8 hours with a DC motor as a load drawing around 400mA I decided to try your idea.

I now have 2 superbright 10mm LEDs with 2.2K current limiting resistors in reverse mode as a load (no inductor) - they alternate when the relay switches at 2.0Hz. D/C is 50.1%, the best I can do with a 555 as the oscillator.
(I blew one of the LEDs when I didn't use the resistors, but they are rated at Vf-5V.)

I have had my 3PDT relayed TS running for about 5 hours and the batteries have increased more than 3V overall. (From around 40.0V to around 43.3V)

I'm not getting too excited yet, but it would be a great Xmas present if the batteries continue to increase in voltage.

I'm also seeing Battery2 cycle up and down by around 0.4V, whilst Batteries 1, 3 & 4 are steady but slowly climbing.

The LEDs and resistors only draw 56mA. BTW, my oscillator and relays (2 x DPDT relays with one pole on one relay not being used) are powered from separate batteries. I want to see how well the TS batteries charge (or not) before I power the oscillator and relays from them.

I know most of you guys are running solid state or PIC setups, but just wanted to share my progress with the mechanical version.

I'm off to sleep off the Xmas lunch and dinner - 10:30pm Xmas night in AU now.

John K.

[citfta]

SG3524n problems

Hi Gang,


Has anyone gotten the SG3524n chip to successfully run their TS? I have tried all the suggestions by John and some other ideas of my own and I can's seem to keep it running. I have gotten it to run for as long as a full day and then it starts switching one side only. I have several of them and they are the Texas Instrument ones. Some one said the capacitor would cause it to switch only one output, but they didn't say which capacitor they meant. I assumed they were talking about the timing capacitor so I have tried several different ones. I still get the same results. It may or may not run, but after a while it goes back to only pulsing one output. Sometimes it will be one output and sometimes the other. If I turn down the duty cycle pot until neither output fires sometimes when I turn it back up the other output will fire and vice versa. The problem appears to be that the internal flip-flop is not toggling because when only one output is pulsing it is pulsing at twice it's normal rate. Any suggestions?




Thanks, Carroll

[Inquorate]

Vtech,

Thanks for the tip on the 2 reversed LEDs.

After draining my TS batteries over 8 hours with a DC motor as a load drawing around 400mA I decided to try your idea.

I now have 2 superbright 10mm LEDs with 2.2K current limiting resistors in reverse mode as a load (no inductor) - they alternate when the relay switches at 2.0Hz. D/C is 50.1%, the best I can do with a 555 as the oscillator.
(I blew one of the LEDs when I didn't use the resistors, but they are rated at Vf-5V.)

I have had my 3PDT relayed TS running for about 5 hours and the batteries have increased more than 3V overall. (From around 40.0V to around 43.3V)

I'm not getting too excited yet, but it would be a great Xmas present if the batteries continue to increase in voltage.

I'm also seeing Battery2 cycle up and down by around 0.4V, whilst Batteries 1, 3 & 4 are steady but slowly climbing.

The LEDs and resistors only draw 56mA. BTW, my oscillator and relays (2 x DPDT relays with one pole on one relay not being used) are powered from separate batteries. I want to see how well the TS batteries charge (or not) before I power the oscillator and relays from them.

I know most of you guys are running solid state or PIC setups, but just wanted to share my progress with the mechanical version.

I'm off to sleep off the Xmas lunch and dinner - 10:30pm Xmas night in AU now.

John K.

Thanks for sharing john k, we're in the same time zone and probably state can you post schematic if it continues charging?

Well it's technically boxing day morning, hope everyone has a great xmas

Love and light

[StevanC]

Hi Gang,


Has anyone gotten the SG3524n chip to successfully run their TS? I have tried all the suggestions by John and some other ideas of my own and I can's seem to keep it running. I have gotten it to run for as long as a full day and then it starts switching one side only. I have several of them and they are the Texas Instrument ones. Some one said the capacitor would cause it to switch only one output, but they didn't say which capacitor they meant. I assumed they were talking about the timing capacitor so I have tried several different ones. I still get the same results. It may or may not run, but after a while it goes back to only pulsing one output. Sometimes it will be one output and sometimes the other. If I turn down the duty cycle pot until neither output fires sometimes when I turn it back up the other output will fire and vice versa. The problem appears to be that the internal flip-flop is not toggling because when only one output is pulsing it is pulsing at twice it's normal rate. Any suggestions?




Thanks, Carroll

All I can say:
3525 (one digit more than 3524)

I had it run my (on YouTube) TS and it ran flawlessly down to whatever Hz and did correctly bias the optos and all.
It has all different pin descriptions, so pay attention?

But it worked for me "like a charm" after I fried only one )

Maybe?

But take it with a grain of salt:
I'm right now struggling to get a 494 running with no success?

Maybe to put the voltage off the pot to the CMP instead to the op-amp input?

I will go try than now for the 494...

Stevan C.