Use for the Tesla Switch

[Plazma]

Every Little Bit Counts . . .

Hi John_K,

What you are doing electromechanically is really important. I, for
one digital elve, have struggled getting loads to balance and so on.
The day might come when we'll all be scouring your posts looking
for clues on how to squeeze a few extra millivolts so as to drag
some energy OUT of this TSw beast Who knew?

Happy Holidays Mate!

Plazma

. . .
I know most of you guys are running solid state or PIC setups, but just wanted to share my progress with the mechanical version.

I'm off to sleep off the Xmas lunch and dinner - 10:30pm Xmas night in AU now.

John K.

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Hi Bits,

Thanks for the info - also, with the flurry of activity ongoing I must have missed the recommended part number for the scr. The scr mods will be the next phase after I get the current build running. Any recommendation on an SCR welcome. I have some of the 800Volt ones on hand that JB used in the Free Energy Generation Book but not sure they are best for the TSw.

Cheers,

Plazma

Plaz, here is what I am using, MCR8SD.

Thanks

Bit's

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Hi Gang,


Has anyone gotten the SG3524n chip to successfully run their TS? I have tried all the suggestions by John and some other ideas of my own and I can's seem to keep it running. I have gotten it to run for as long as a full day and then it starts switching one side only. I have several of them and they are the Texas Instrument ones. Some one said the capacitor would cause it to switch only one output, but they didn't say which capacitor they meant. I assumed they were talking about the timing capacitor so I have tried several different ones. I still get the same results. It may or may not run, but after a while it goes back to only pulsing one output. Sometimes it will be one output and sometimes the other. If I turn down the duty cycle pot until neither output fires sometimes when I turn it back up the other output will fire and vice versa. The problem appears to be that the internal flip-flop is not toggling because when only one output is pulsing it is pulsing at twice it's normal rate. Any suggestions?




Thanks, Carroll

Monolithic Caps and "Metal Film" resistors should help with these fussy animals. Any other than metal film resistores are vulnerable to temperature throwing the values off.

Just my 2 Cents.

Bit's

[citfta]

SG3524n help

Hi Gang,


Thanks for the ideas on the SG3524n chip. I will try the ones that I have not already tried. I'll let you know how it turns out.


I think for a long term solution I am going to try the Picaxe 18x that Bits is using. It seems to be doing the what he wants it to and I think I will have better control of my duty cycle and pulse rate. Not having to depend on caps and resistors for the timing seems like a better idea. Now I just have to wait for it to come in and then learn how to program it. Bits has already given us a good starting point for the programming.


Hope everyone is enjoying a happy holiday. Merry Christmas.


Carroll

[blackchisel97]

Vtech,

Thanks for the tip on the 2 reversed LEDs.

After draining my TS batteries over 8 hours with a DC motor as a load drawing around 400mA I decided to try your idea.

I now have 2 superbright 10mm LEDs with 2.2K current limiting resistors in reverse mode as a load (no inductor) - they alternate when the relay switches at 2.0Hz. D/C is 50.1%, the best I can do with a 555 as the oscillator.
(I blew one of the LEDs when I didn't use the resistors, but they are rated at Vf-5V.)

I have had my 3PDT relayed TS running for about 5 hours and the batteries have increased more than 3V overall. (From around 40.0V to around 43.3V)

I'm not getting too excited yet, but it would be a great Xmas present if the batteries continue to increase in voltage.

I'm also seeing Battery2 cycle up and down by around 0.4V, whilst Batteries 1, 3 & 4 are steady but slowly climbing.

The LEDs and resistors only draw 56mA. BTW, my oscillator and relays (2 x DPDT relays with one pole on one relay not being used) are powered from separate batteries. I want to see how well the TS batteries charge (or not) before I power the oscillator and relays from them.

I know most of you guys are running solid state or PIC setups, but just wanted to share my progress with the mechanical version.

I'm off to sleep off the Xmas lunch and dinner - 10:30pm Xmas night in AU now.

John K.

Hi John,

It sounds (or rather blinks )like you're getting something You could try to put a diode between 6&7 of 555 (anode to 6). This will allow you to operate under 50% d.c. I did that with my solid state. The only problem is that when you change d.c. your frequency changes too. I have schem. where both can be controlled independently and in full d.c. range, just have to find it. My folder dedicated to J.B technology is no longer in MB range

I checked on my SC after I left running from 4am - 2pm. I took everything apart last night and put oscillator with optos on pcb. I made a room for 6 opto sockets so I can run any combination - 3,4 etc. Also, I soldered 2 post to try different capacitors without re soldering directly to pcb.
@Carroll My problem with switching was gone after replacing 2uF (between 7& 8 -ground) with monolythic however, at very low freq. (under 2Hz it still behaves like you described, flipping one side). Right now I have 470nF instead and I can adjust down to 1Hz. I tried 2x470uF parallel and it still worked but any more than that and one output quits. I don't understand the purpose of other 1uF cap and didn't notice any difference in operation with/without it. I left running last night with 12V5W bulb (I know it's too much, but wanted to see what will do) of course it wasn't lit but battery dropped 0.03 during 9hr. Today I changed L into 300T AWG#26 with Fe core. I put 910 Ohm resistor in series with inverted parallel LED's. Lower spike got much bigger, I measured with a scope about 27V. Total deltaV is 31.82V, almost full screen at 5V/div. This is across the load with LED's. They're just normal brightness right now. I'll play with this further today. Indeed, it would be the best Christmas gift to get this running. Santa from the vacuum


Vtech

[wwdotme]

3 bat

Hi guys

I started a new thread on my 3 battery system I got going today.
I will would interested in others who have got the 3 bat going
and what they are using and getting for results.

Thanks Bill

[blackchisel97]

SC

This is a circuit I'm working on with my current values (except TIP41, don't have any MJ's) and scope shot across the load -

@nvisser Don't have any to try it but it would be very interesting to see how they work in TS. V.good idea imo.


Vtech

[John_K]

3PDT Relay Tesla Switch - still charging

Thanks for sharing john k, we're in the same time zone and probably state can you post schematic if it continues charging?

Well it's technically boxing day morning, hope everyone has a great xmas

Love and light

Hi Inquorate,

Yes, it's still charging. After 16 hours the total battery voltage has gone from 40.11 to 46.00V.

I'm in Bacchus Marsh, near Melbourne. I'll post a schematic during lunch in the cricket...

John K.

[John_K]

Thanks Plazma

Hi John_K,

What you are doing electromechanically is really important. I, for
one digital elve, have struggled getting loads to balance and so on.
The day might come when we'll all be scouring your posts looking
for clues on how to squeeze a few extra millivolts so as to drag
some energy OUT of this TSw beast Who knew?

Happy Holidays Mate!

Plazma

Thanks for support Plazma. Electromechanical is the only way I understand how it works. I failed transistor theory at school, still scratching me head 20+ years later.

John K.

[John_K]

Hi John,

It sounds (or rather blinks )like you're getting something You could try to put a diode between 6&7 of 555 (anode to 6). This will allow you to operate under 50% d.c. I did that with my solid state. The only problem is that when you change d.c. your frequency changes too. I have schem. where both can be controlled independently and in full d.c. range, just have to find it. My folder dedicated to J.B technology is no longer in MB range
[...]

Vtech

Hi Vtech,

Thanks for the tip. I think I have the same schem which I've used in JB's cap pulsers - it works well.

I want to "K.I.S.S." it for now and won't change this setup until either the batteries are fully charged or start dropping off. At this rate the batteries will take another week to charge up fully. I'm just hoping that they aren't still bouncing back up in voltage after I took them down pretty low with the DC motor as the load.

Here's a quick summary:

Start
B1 12.27
B2 10.51
B3 8.66
B4 8.67

+16 hours
B1 12.21
B2 12.13
B3 10.83
B4 10.83

In case you missed it, batteries are 7Ah gel-cells. I'm not worried about B1 dropping 0.04V as it's probably trying to balance with B2.

John K.

[John_K]

3 Bat

Hi guys

I started a new thread on my 3 battery system I got going today.
I will would interested in others who have got the 3 bat going
and what they are using and getting for results.

Thanks Bill

Hi Bill,

I had some good success with the 3 battery setup. It taught me about differential potentials. Search my posts in this thread for the mixed success I had.

John K.

[blackchisel97]

Hi Vtech,

Thanks for the tip. I think I have the same schem which I've used in JB's cap pulsers - it works well.

I want to "K.I.S.S." it for now and won't change this setup until either the batteries are fully charged or start dropping off. At this rate the batteries will take another week to charge up fully. I'm just hoping that they aren't still bouncing back up in voltage after I took them down pretty low with the DC motor as the load.

Here's a quick summary:

Start
B1 12.27
B2 10.51
B3 8.66
B4 8.67

+16 hours
B1 12.21
B2 12.13
B3 10.83
B4 10.83

In case you missed it, batteries are 7Ah gel-cells. I'm not worried about B1 dropping 0.04V as it's probably trying to balance with B2.

John K.

It looks promising I doubt this is just "bouncing back". Another few hours will tell.
Meanwhile, after staring at my scope screen I decided that my inductive load isn't right, since I keep losing. I removed coil and left only LED's. Wave is different and something I've seen it before. Battery bounced back to last night starting level within an hour. I'm running oscillator from separate 12 LAB and switching circuit is running with two 6V 5Ah in series (12V 5Ah).
With 0.47uF I can adjust frequency between 1.5 - 4Hz (2Hz right now). DMM is about to jump another 0.01V up, which would be 0.01 above yesterday's starting voltage. LED's were salvaged from the neighbor lawn solar lights, don't know the type but there was 1.2 rechargeable battery powering them. They are approx. 75% of their nominal brightness. I'm confused about the inductor. I have tried few dozens of different ones and there were nice spikes, some near 50V but...there was no gain in battery. What am I missing here I don't want to blame wrong transistors for everything but I'm close to.

Vtech

[John_K]

3PDT Relay Tesla Switch - Schematic (3rd time lucky)

Here's a schematic of my EM TS.

Another summary:

Start
B1 12.27
B2 10.51
B3 8.66
B4 8.67

+22 hours
B1 12.23
B2 12.15
B3 10.78
B4 10.78

John K.

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Here's a schematic of my EM TS.

Another summary:

Start
B1 12.27
B2 10.51
B3 8.66
B4 8.67

+22 hours
B1 12.23
B2 12.15
B3 10.78
B4 10.78

John K.

Looks like you are gaining on it. Great job!

Bit's

[wwdotme]

Hi Bill,

I had some good success with the 3 battery setup. It taught me about differential potentials. Search my posts in this thread for the mixed success I had.

John K.

Yes I read through your posts before I fired mine up. Double checking
everything because I didn't want anykind of melt down.

Thanks John K