Use for the Tesla Switch

[John_Bedini]

Tesla switch

John K,
are you rotating batteries?
John B

I got the 3 battery system to work. I built exactly as per John Bedini's picture, using 2N3055's.

I used a 12V #47 bulb as a load. Batteries are 12V 7Ah gel-cells.

At the start of a short run:
B1 - 13.17
B2 - 12.92
B3 - 12.73

After running for about 5 minutes:
B1 - 12.90
B2 - 12.63
B3 - 15.70

After 1 hour rest:
B1 - 13.16
B2 - 12.90
B3 - 12.92

That's a net gain, plus some free light.

Just getting to know the circuit, then will start rotating batteries around.

John K.

[blackchisel97]

John Bedini,

PCB looks great! I found two SG which I bought a while ago when studied your Radiant Pump Patent from 2003.

Thanks

John K.

Nice to meet you here
Those are great results! 3055 - is that what John is using?


Vtech

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

blackchise,
No I'm using the MJL21194 because when switching it can go negative. I know this because we have built negative resistance oscillators with them. Peter L also knows this device goes negative.
John B

John Bedini,

PCB looks great! I found two SG which I bought a while ago when studied your Radiant Pump Patent from 2003.

Thanks

John K.

Nice to meet you here
Those are great results! 3055 - is that what John is using?


Vtech

[blackchisel97]

blackchisel,
No I'm using the MJL21194 because when switching it can go negative. I know this because we have built negative resistance oscillators with them. Peter L also knows this device goes negative.
John B

Thank you! I didn't know about that. I asked, because those in your pic's seems too big to be 3055, which John K. mentioned.


Vtech

[morpher44]

great PCB design

Here are some pictures for now until I return later.
John B

Wow! What a kit. If that was available for sale .. I would immediately
buy one.

One suggestion...
You might consider putting LEDs at each opto location with jumpers
so that when debugging you can SEE if the opto & LEDs are getting current.
You can run the opto firing real slow and debug that everything is
working as expected with a visual.
Perhaps there is another way ..
I found, when playing with optos .. that I had high anxiety about
whether or not it was lighting inside ... when things didn't work.

Anyway ... very impressive board. Nice work!!!

Yes please make this a kit so that we can buy this.

[John_K]

John K,
are you rotating batteries?
John B

John B,

I am now. I'm waiting for B3 to get to 14.5 then rotating. The lowest battery is then B3.

Will also swap the 3055's for 21194's and try and get 3 that match.

John K.

[nvisser]

John B,
I am now. I'm waiting for B3 to get to 14.5 then rotating. The lowest battery is then B3.
Will also swap the 3055's for 21194's and try and get 3 that match.
John K.

John K .
Do you pulse the test switch on Johns diagram by hand or with a oscilator?

[John_K]

John K .
Do you pulse the test switch on Johns diagram by hand or with a oscilator?

nvisser,

No, just leave it on full time - no pulsing. Not sure if this is right or not, but it seems to get results. Longer testing will confirm I suppose.

John K.

[lamare]

Hi all,

First of all, I'm very happy John Bedini is here with us. You're more then welcome.

If I understand this right, the trick is to charge the battery with over potential, right?

That suggests that maybe the best strategy is to have a (large) capacitor as load and to make sure that doesn't get charged up to the point that the charge batteries no longer see an over-potential.

So, if I understand this right, and we have 4 12V batteries and 2 V of losses over our transistors, we have 10V to play with on the load.

Then, if you take a (buffer) capacitor as load, you can charge that up to, say, 9 V and switch all transistors of. Then, the capacitor powers the load, and you keep the all transistors switched of, until the cap is discharged to let's say 8V. At that point, you switch one set of transistors on, to charge the cap back up to 9V.
Next time the cap reaches 8V, you switch on the other set of transistors.

That way, you continously have between 8 and 9 V to power the load, while on the other hand you always have an over-potential to charge the batteries with.

Can you comment on this, John?

[John_K]

3 battery test progress

nvisser,

No, just leave it on full time - no pulsing. Not sure if this is right or not, but it seems to get results. Longer testing will confirm I suppose.

John K.

The third battery will charge if you leave the test switch permamently closed, but guess it really should be oscillated - probably at 50% d/c.

I replaced the 2N3055's with matched MJL21194's. The circuit still worked as before. I didn't have any 555's and opto's so just for a test I replaced the test switch with a reed switch that is closed once per revolution by a small bike computer magnet that is attached to my rotored SG. It actually works pretty well all things considered. I get some nice spikes across B3 and it is charging and all the transistors fire at the same time. I guess it works similar to a cap pulser circuit.

I'll let it run for a while and rotate the batteries around when I need to.

John K.

P.S. Nice pics of the intended kit John B.

[theremart]

RE: Tesla Switch

I got the 3 battery system to work. I built exactly as per John Bedini's picture, using 2N3055's.

I used a 12V #47 bulb as a load. Batteries are 12V 7Ah gel-cells.

At the start of a short run:
B1 - 13.17
B2 - 12.92
B3 - 12.73

After running for about 5 minutes:
B1 - 12.90
B2 - 12.63
B3 - 15.70

After 1 hour rest:
B1 - 13.16
B2 - 12.90
B3 - 12.92

That's a net gain, plus some free light.

Just getting to know the circuit, then will start rotating batteries around.

John K.

Wow, that is awesome resting voltage. I have seen many people attempt this but have not seen those type of numbers before.

May I ask what type of battery did you use in this test ( Amp hours brand )

Thanks for sharing.

[Inquorate]

Just thought I'd share this idea; using the three battery setup john bedini posted,

And three double pole double switch relays.

Wire the batteries to the common poles of the relays.

Wire the normally closed poles together so they are all in series. the problem here will be when the middle relay switches to normally open position. A diode may be needed to bridge the break in the circuit when the middle relay is on.

Or maybe if the two end circuits are connected in a loop, but this would short all batteries if the relays stop being switched on in a cascade.

Wire all the normally open poles to the position occupied by the single battery.

Devise a system where the relays are triggered one by one; only one relay at a time will be in normally open position.

This will cycle the batteries.

Of course, a rotating commutator like the one ted ewert is building me would be great to use instead of the relays;

Ben's rotating switch - Heretical Builders

This particular commutator is to switch 2 sets of two caps in series and parallel to each other.

I'm thinking the commutator itself could be turned by a bedini coil / wheel setup, attracting magnets to turn the commutator. This could be the load, and the recovered spikes could charge a fourth battery.

Anyway, I usually dislike conjecture without experiment but I'm laid up at the moment for health reasons. So pure conjecture it is at the moment.

Love and light

[nvisser]

I am currently running the static 3 battery setup. When using a low resistance load, like a 12v 21w brake bulb, the voltage over it is low and it pass a lot of current so batt 3 charge fast with 400ma.
With a 40v permanent magnet motor, no load, the motor just runs slow with a voltage drop of 7v over it and it pass 90ma to batt 3. Still charging.\
I don’t have other loads to test with
Because of the 100 ohm resistor the transistors don’t switch on fully so the voltage drop over them is up to 2,2v and doesn’t leave much for the load.
But this was just to explain the principle and learn how to match the load I suppose
I am changing batteries every hour and is very sceptical if I will see any gain. I will report back

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

nvisser,
The three battery system is just a test to show the switching. So here see if you can get this circuit to work and charge it's own battery. The load must be chosen correctly so the battery is in a state of constant charge. The famous Bill and Ray Scalar charger. Charger is the one I talked about on KABC with Bill Jenkins. Drive it with a flip flop oscillator you can control the speed. Give this a try MR. Jones, I have one of these running at work. If your not careful it will destroy your battery. Also if you take this battery out of the system it will be real hard to charge with a normal charger.
John B

I am currently running the static 3 battery setup. When using a low resistance load, like a 12v 21w brake bulb, the voltage over it is low and it pass a lot of current so batt 3 charge fast with 400ma.
With a 40v permanent magnet motor, no load, the motor just runs slow with a voltage drop of 7v over it and it pass 90ma to batt 3. Still charging.\
I don’t have other loads to test with
Because of the 100 ohm resistor the transistors don’t switch on fully so the voltage drop over them is up to 2,2v and doesn’t leave much for the load.
But this was just to explain the principle and learn how to match the load I suppose
I am changing batteries every hour and is very sceptical if I will see any gain. I will report back

[nvisser]

Thank you John
Will it still work if i dont use the MJL21194?
I see it is a update on the scaler battery charger on your old website.THE TESLA SWITCH
I always wanted to build it but the pnp transistors sounded like very small transistors and I thought they will blow immediately. I thougt it was bc108`s, that small tin transistors!! You said on the website that something looked wrong and that you never tried it so I left it
Now this circuit looks worth building. I will start on Monday when I can get my hands on some components
I suppose the toggle frequency should be low to allow the parralel capacitors to charge up properly to 12v before it dicharges in series?
So it looks like the load has to be chosen so that the battery is in constant charge but not overcharging?

I noticed that the opto, transistor setup is the same as on the TS photo you posted with the diode and cap to the base