Use for the Tesla Switch

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

On R Brandt circuit what is meant by:
"D9 D10 each one must be equal to D1 D5 together"
I see on the pic diagram that you got sensing inputs for this diodes.
Can somebody please explain to me what this is for

Vissie, I think that is to make sure of a constant current flow. I am not sure ethier but included sensing for them.

Bit's

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

nilrehob,
I will look at anything that the group wants to do, I want everybody to remember that this circuit was done to just prove it could be done. You may do it anyway you want. It's just that we get the basic understanding of what is suppose to take place in the circuit. If we can replace the existing circuit with something better I'm for that. The potential across the circuit and the abrupt discharge is where the energy comes from. But you must keep the batteries charging, this is what causes the batteries to sustain a high charge. In a way you can say your stealing the surface charge and applying it to the load as excess energy. So we are just changing one form of energy to another with excess charge.

I find many questions and will get to them all so do not think I'm ignoring you all, it's just I'm going though all the analog circuits to see if I have missed something I did not say to the group. I want you all to be successful with this, no secrets here.

People have a misunderstanding about Free Energy, nothing is for free, we must pay for it some how, so it's considered a change in the form of energy. You can not destroy energy you just change it's form, and if you can't measure it, it's because the meters we use can't see it but the battery can.

Forget the current as we want to charge with using the smallest amount current in every circuit we build, and that is conserving energy, and it can be done. When Tesla figured out pulse discharges is when we have seen this different form of energy in the gaseous state, so the trick is to catch it and use it somehow, and Tesla did. Nature uses very small currents to form everything we have and it takes time to work.The energy you seek is around the wire in the form of a gas, it must be converted.
John B

John B,

I'm really trying to understand the circuit, and I hope that You don't mind my questions.

I cant' figure out why not do the circuit as proposed by me, redeagle and others with six switches and no diodes:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post65249

So i started writing out the potentials on the two different circuits (assuming 1V across collector emitter drops and diode junctions for simplicity).

What i found out is that in Your circuit (to the left) the batteries in parallel have the same potentials, both have negative on 8V,
while on the no-diodes-circuit (to the right) the batteries in parallel have different potentials, one neg on 10V and one neg on 11V.

Is this the reason for not going for the no-diodes-circuit?

/Hob

[ldissing]

The Full Switch works

John Bedini,

The FULL switch:

It is still too soon to say total success, but it is running without the transistors getting hot. All 4 batteries are coming up in voltage, slowly, but it is working like you said it would.

Thanks for peaking my interest again,

Leroy

[ldissing]

Tesla Switch running itself

John Bedini,

I put a 24000uF cap in the bridge area. Charged it to 12V without another load on there and the circuit came alive with the power to the oscillator coming from the cap.

Then, I connected back up a 6V lamp and it is lit to full brightness and the circuit is still running. No need for an external power supply...AWESOME!

This was a dream for me to get working. Your 3 battery switch diagram was THE difference in helping to get the full switch to work. It works like a charm. ALL batteries are about .1V higher after running a small 6V light on the system. Don't know what difference the capacitor and running the oscillator will make, but I'll keep this group and the BM2 group posted.

Thanks again,

Leroy

[ldissing]

Can I post your schematic on another group...????

my setup dod not work, but that is because I used resistive load instead of inductive load and way too much of it for batteries of the capacity I had. Back then I did not know much about electronics, my fiend, a radio electronic expert, helped me with the circuit. Anyway, this was the full circuit:
http://www.emuprim.lv/bildez/images/.../sleedzis2.GIF

I would be glad if someone tested it properly

Jetijs,

Can I post your schematic on the BM2 group? You probably lost all rights to it when you posted it here anyway, but oscillator part works fine...not the opto stuff though.

Leroy

[John_K]

3 battery test works...

John Bedini,


This was a dream for me to get working. Your 3 battery switch diagram was THE difference in helping to get the full switch to work. It works like a charm. ALL batteries are about .1V higher after running a small 6V light on the system. Don't know what difference the capacitor and running the oscillator will make, but I'll keep this group and the BM2 group posted.

Thanks again,

Leroy

I spent a fair bit of time with the 3 battery test. Rotated batteries just fine and they are all slowly charging up, as well as running the load. More details...

I took 3 GOOD 12v 7Ah batteries, 2 of them were around 13v the other one was at 12.3v. Used a 12v 55w quartz halogen headlight bulb as the load.
Charged up the low battery until one of the other batteries was at 12.0v under load. (Being careful not to kill them) The orginal low battery got up to about 13.8v.
Swapped the charged battery for the low one and kept doing this 5-6 times. I noticed that every time I rotated batteries, the charging battery would charge up higher and the other two took longer to discharge. I'll continue to do this until all 3 batteries are fully charged.
I also noticed that the MJL21194's were getting hot so I put them all on a heatsink. Although the wires to the bulb stayed cool and all of the batteries stayed cool.
This is a great experiment to understand how the switch works, I urge evreyone to give it a try. It works just like JB says it does. It is such an eye opener!
Just be careful you don't over-charge the charging battery OR allow the other batteries to go too low. You might have to play with the load to get the balance right. (I'm going to try to run an SSG as the load next)
Edit: The test switch was not pulsed, on permanently until the battery is charged or one of the other two gets too low.

John K.

[Jetijs]

Jetijs,

Can I post your schematic on the BM2 group? You probably lost all rights to it when you posted it here anyway, but oscillator part works fine...not the opto stuff though.

Leroy

Sure Leroy
go ahead. Would you mind posting the exact schematic of your current working circuit?
Thanks,
Jetijs

[ldissing]

Used a 12v 55w quartz halogen headlight bulb as the load.
John K.

John K.,

You're pulling almost 4.6 amps continuously through there. I'd definitely heat sink the MJLs if you are pulling that kind of load. I've noticed that if I try to pull a heavy load, or even a small one, then smaller pulses seem to work better as far as heat goes.

I'd love to have a "real" board and solder all these connections...! I guess I'll have to learn how to print my own circuit boards. Already have the etching equipment, just need to be able to print it out and stick it one there. I have a friend that is pretty knowledgeable about this sort of thing, but he lives in Ohio.

Leroy

P.S. Did you see my post about running the oscillator off the cap, so the switch is running itself....?

[theremart]

Ok thanks for the specs

theremart,

The batteries I used for the test are a generic 12V 7Ah gele-cell, made in China. The type normally used as alarm system backup batteries. They've been used and abused on many projects, but are usually re-charged with a RC-1AU.

John K.

I am encouraged to see 2 success reports here using the switch. So these batteries have been radiantly charged then. If I may ask what is the resting voltage when these batteries are fully charged after y ou use the RC-1AU and let them sit for a few hours ?

I ask that because I have found when my 12 amp hour batteries seem to be the best charged they have a resting voltage of 13.20.

Thanks for the info!

[John_K]

Leroy,

John K.,

You're pulling almost 4.6 amps continuously through there.

Yeah, neat, huh? The bulb isn't real bright 'cos there's only around 9v drop across it. JB calls for a low resistance load. I played with a few, the #47 bulb was a bit too high on the resistance (2.3 ohms) - the 55w measured around 0.9 ohms. I'm trying to work on impedance matching theory...

P.S. Did you see my post about running the oscillator off the cap, so the switch is running itself....?

Sure did, awesome! All of the posts on the full TS are over my head right now. I'll let you guys figure everything out whilst I'm playing with the 3 batt test circuit. Yes, it's a pain in the butt rotating batteries... but worth it!

John K.

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Here is the fix for the SG 3524N, Just want you to have the information and the internal diagram for Harris, original RCA.
John B

John Bedini,

I put a 24000uF cap in the bridge area. Charged it to 12V without another load on there and the circuit came alive with the power to the oscillator coming from the cap.

Then, I connected back up a 6V lamp and it is lit to full brightness and the circuit is still running. No need for an external power supply...AWESOME!

This was a dream for me to get working. Your 3 battery switch diagram was THE difference in helping to get the full switch to work. It works like a charm. ALL batteries are about .1V higher after running a small 6V light on the system. Don't know what difference the capacitor and running the oscillator will make, but I'll keep this group and the BM2 group posted.

Thanks again,

Leroy

[ldissing]

Not using 3524

Here is the fix for the SG 3524N, Just want you to have the information and the internal diagram for Harris, original RCA.
John B

John B,

Thanks for the info. I'm not using the 3524, however. I'm using the Jetijs circuit posted on this group for the oscillator. Using the optos like you said, but substituted just a diode for the resistor (didn't have enough 1uf caps to put in parallel).

I can't believe it is actually working. I can, but I can't if you know what I mean. Powering the load, powering itself, and charging the batteries.

How much of a load should it be able to pull without the transistors getting hot? I'd think, the bigger the load, i.e. the lower the resistance, the better it would charge, but the transistors seem to get hot when I put a 10W halogen across there. I mean, I've only got about 9V to play with and I've got a small delay between on/off pulses just to make sure one set of transistors are switched off before the other turn on.

It is charging and running itself, so that is something. An amazing something.

1. Can you tell me what the biggest load you've run on a tesla switch is, including the battery size? In the picture you posted, you do not have any heat sinks on the transistors, but you are pulling a small load.
2. Do you EVER need any heat sinks? Or, is it all a timing issue?

3. The scope traces are really wild. Mostly wavy-wave forms, it is like watching a caterpillar crawl. Is that what I should be seeing, or is it not tuned right?

You're the man,

Leroy

[blackchisel97]

John, I was just writing to ask you for SG details since trying to get it from PCB photo wasn't easy All I have at my disposal are 10000uF caps and MJE13005 or MJL3055 (not the best choice, I know) but I'm excited to get this working, like any of your previous designs. I also have a question regarding other circuit, if I could, but I don't want to hijack this thread.

Thank you

Vtech

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Kent,
Who did these diagrams? I would not switch that way as it seems that the potentials are wrong. For example two batteries go in series so the device is wrong, or should be a PNP and not an NPN as it will never turn on in this circuit. I guess I'm just missing something here, maybe you could explain a little more to me.
John B

@Matthew Jones

For the moment I'm going to set aside the forward-bias issue of the transistor.

I don't want to let my OCD get in the way of progress either, but I still think there's something wrong with the circuit diagram. Let me explain:

If I "take that and duplicate it in both directions" by copying the right side connections to the left side batteries like the picture below, as soon as the transistor turns on, will it not short circuit both left-side batteries since there is nothing to break the parallel connection?

I propose that redeagle's picture (post 309) is accurate. Look at the picture below, the one with Figures 1, 2, and 3. In figure 1, I show the relocation of the two transistors from your drawing such that they allow an interruption of the parallel connection of the right-side batteries. This allows the circuit to be "duplicated in both directions while avoiding the short-circuit condition I spoke of.

But also note, that by simplifying the diagram further, and putting diodes in instead of transistors, you can see that figure 2 is still an open circuit. By reversing the left-side diode (Figure 3) you make a circuit which can function. This circuit is only one half of the final circuit. The second half reverses the flow through the load.

By noting the direction of the diode in figure 3, I return to my original postulation, and reiterate that redeagle's diagram must be correct.

Yes? No?

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

blackchise,
Those parts are fine to use, and no I will not answer any questions on the SG here as this is about the Tesla Switch at this time. Progress is made buy focusing on one thing at a time.
John B

John, I was just writing to ask you for SG details since trying to get it from PCB photo wasn't easy All I have at my disposal are 10000uF caps and MJE13005 or MJL3055 (not the best choice, I know) but I'm excited to get this working, like any of your previous designs. I also have a question regarding other circuit, if I could, but I don't want to hijack this thread.

Thank you

Vtech