Use for the Tesla Switch

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Bit's,
I have that circuit working here, did he hook it up right, it's kind of tricky sometimes, let's see what he did. I will check the circuit over to see if I goofed anything up. The capacitor could be the problem if it is leaking to much.
John B

Vtech, left you a PM.
Thanks
Bit's

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Bit's,
I have that circuit working here, did he hook it up right, it's kind of tricky sometimes, let's see what he did. I will check the circuit over to see if I goofed anything up. The capacitor could be the problem if it is leaking to much.
John B

John, I have him troubleshooting as we speak. Your circuit is fine. Will let you know shortly.

Thanks
Bit's

[ldissing]

Would you answer if I posted what I thought your circuit was for?

Leroy,
That depends on the load you want to use, I do everything with small currents so I can study what is going on at first. Questions are questions and need to be asked.
JohnB

Mr. Bedini,

Just to let you know, I am not challenging you. You are the master of these things. I am just a pupil. Please have patience with me, as I have a type A personallity.

You are, of course, a genius, in regards to theory and practice of these circuits. You know that you are a keeper of secrets! Would you like for me to post what I believe the circuit in the picture is doing? I would like to know your response, or do you think it too soon for this?

I do not care what people think of me. It is of no concern as I am not in the public eye. If I am wrong then that is fine and I assume you would tell me if I am incorrect. I do not want to say what you do not want revealed at this moment. So please let me know if you want my revelation posted. You can contact me privately as well.

I do not assume, I bench test. I do theorize, however. I do not have all the results YET!, but I expect to have them within the week.

Regards,

Leroy

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Leroy,
By all means post it, I want to know what you find, Then I will tell you what Peter and I believe where Ronald B got this diagram.

[ldissing]

What I believe the picture is for?

Leroy,
By all means post it, I want to know what you find, Then I will tell you what Peter and I believe where Ronald B got this diagram.

I've done a little celebrating tonight, so bear with me, please.

I am no expert, but I have a working switch and have been studying it. I have run various loads from high amperage to low amperage, and this is what I believe from my system, although, I could and probably am wrong with my interpretation of these tests. You will know if what I'm saying is correct!

You say, "Batteries can be charged with potential only and no current". So,

I believe the picture you posted is for the purpose of equalizing the batteries. You have a 20ma load at 3.2 to 3.8 V more or less. You have a resistor in series with that load, so the "bulb" won't blow....I did blow one of these already (it was quite a fun time for me, not really!).

This circuit is charging the batteries without current, just potential. 20ma is not much current, but the potential is there. The bigger the battery, the less the current matters (it really doesn't need any current, but the bigger it is, the less it notices the small amount of current coming in), i.e. the more radiant can enter.

You could build this as big or as small as you want to do whatever you want. Power a load, or charge batteries, and maybe both at the same time if the load and batteries are a good match. You WILL be able to add some charge to the 12V batteries, but in the switch, at a 50% duty cycle, you will be subtracting some too. You need the 3524 to regulate the duty cycle, or have some kind of feedback on how much the batteries get "used".

When I was asking how to get the transistors from becoming hot, I was trying to power a load. The switch can do that, and much more, but if you want to charge your batteries, then don't use any current. If you do not use current, then your transistors do NOT get hot. This is why there are no heat sinks on those transistors in the photo even with those big batteries.

In the photo you shared, you designed it for charging and exploring the switch. Not using a load, so to speak. The load is so small as to be negligible, but still, there is the differential to take into account. To little differential and no charge. To much current and the batteries decrease in voltage. So, again, as you say, it is a tuning game. It is all in how you tune the system. (I'm guessing that the batteries could actually be run WAY down (in Voltage) and still function properly even though the meter says it is at zero volts, but I've been unwilling to sacrifice my batteries for my theories, so far.)

I have run the system "self running" by it's own switching after charging the cap to 12V. It will run forever as far as I know (over 4 hours) with no external power supply, although the switching must be relatively fast for this to occur. When the switching is to slow, it will not continue to run off the cap.

It is an remarkable device, capable of charging batteries, or running loads. It is all in WHAT you want to do. I always had a problem with that statement before, but that is the truth. If you want to run a big load, then run it, but heat sink the transistors or put them in parallel, or whatever the necessity calls for, but size the batteries appropriately to the load.

It can power a load and charge simultaneously. The tuning must be good for this to occur and the current consumed must be in tolerance.

I was mostly talking about that photo you posted. A small load will charge batteries. Big load, then the load has to be size right, or no charging will occur. This is the problem with most people that have gotten this to work at all. The batteries discharge. Either, the tuning was not properly done, or the load was too big for the batteries.

This could be used to charge all the batteries in a battery powered home....with NO solar panels. The batteries could charge themselves. It could change the world, if people believe and build. Build it and they will come!

My thoughts, (don't hit me too hard if I'm wrong please)

Leroy

[Peter Lindemann]

Please Post

Yes Leroy,

Thank you for posting both your experimental results and your interpretations. This is how we all learn. Its not about being right or wrong, but how UNDERSTANDING DEVELOPS. Your statements are consistent with what John has been saying (for years) and what I have seen John do repeatedly in his shop. It sounds to me like you are on the right track.

John showed me a letter today, written to him by Ronald Brandt in 1984, where Brandt clearly states he does not know how or why it works. As John said, we are tracking down the origins of this process and we believe we know who developed the system originally. One thing is for sure, there are still some surprises to come.

Just so everyone can hear it, I saw two systems running on the bench at John's shop today (Nov 23, 09). One was the 4 battery switch, running with the circuit he posted in this thread, and the other was the Scalar Charger with one battery and two capacitors, running a light bulb load and maintaining the battery.

The important thing to learn here is the "switching process". You guys are all really lucky right now, as John has been unwilling to discuss this technology before this.

Learn all you can, while the Sun shines!

Enjoy,
Peter

[dambit]

Well, after a successful test of charging up all 3 12v 7Ah batteries it was time to supersize.

Believe it or not, it works better with bigger batteries!

John K.

Hi John K,

Perhaps this is because of the comparatively lower impedance of the larger batteries. Allows more radient to go through the system.

Cheers,

Steve.

[blackchisel97]

WOW! That's amazing and Congratulations This is very powerful statement and I can't wait to see with my own eyes and hear what John Bedini may say
BTW. I got my oscillator running Damn capacitors! I replaced them without any luck (I had 2uF electrolytic) and just before unplugging for the night I decided to give one more try with ceramic 1uF - and it works! I can adjust between 50 - 120 cpc. I wasn't sure about the value of d. cycle pot and used 50k. I was so embarrassed to say - it doesn't work Feeling better now!

Thank you all

Vtech

[Inquorate]

from eric dollard?

Leroy,
By all means post it, I want to know what you find, Then I will tell you what Peter and I believe where Ronald B got this diagram.

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...ng-screwy.html

?

[John_K]

Steve,

No, I don't think so. It's because the load is less to the bigger batteries. I think I can get the batteries to charge better if I reduce the load and use use the potential for charging.

Check Leroy's last post, he explains it better than I can.

John K.

Hi John K,

Perhaps this is because of the comparatively lower impedance of the larger batteries. Allows more radient to go through the system.

Cheers,

Steve.

[ldissing]

Spikes, yikes, let's all go currentless

Yes Leroy,

The important thing to learn here is the "switching process". You guys are all really lucky right now, as John has been unwilling to discuss this technology before this.
Peter

Peter,

It is interesting to watch the scope trace at various frequencies. I see spikes as high as 35V maybe higher at the switch points but only at certain frequencies. At others frequencies, no spikes. I think this is the critical point to get to. We all know (at least JBers) that the spikes are currentless or mostly so. I'm doing another test right now with just one side to see if the other side will charge at the 20ma current draw, but I have a hunch, that the side that is doing the powering is going to be the one that charges more. Both will charge, but the powering side more than the powered side...if you know what I mean. It is just an intuition that hit me, so I came and checked EF to see what was up. 12:55am here, so I'm going to bed.

Leroy

P.S. Let you know what happens in the morning.

[John_Bedini]

Leroy,
No Leroy I'm not going to say anything because you know what the machine is. I have tried to tell everybody all along to just build it the way I say and study what I'm saying. I understand that some of my words may not make sense at the time, but they will.

Your right in your analogy of the machine. Sometimes you must start from scratch, as if you have never learned anything. If noticed I added the duty cycle adjustment to the PWM circuit.

I also know that you could do a PIC chip to do all of this that would be a blessing, but I do not need it as I like to make the adjustments and as I go along I find more and different kinds of energies showing up. The switch has three function it can do if you give it a little more thought. I really do not want to get into a big physics lesson here, but physics has already discovered negative energy starting with Dirac and some others.

I noticed a post the other day, where someone on this group started to understand all the different function that take place in this machine all at one time. He said it drove him crazy and it will if you do not know what is going on. I did not just bring out that dumb bicycle wheel called the SG for no reason, it was the key to understanding the use of potential flow in charging batteries with no current.

But here is what happened, people started putting meters all over it and tried to use conventional text book formulas to explain it, that does not work with a new form of energy so you can't explain it. The SG is a energizer and not a Motor. it's an energy vacuum pump as all coils are in their space time, where does the extra energy come from?

.
A magnet is fixed in space you can't do anything with it, except spin it. On the other hand a Coil can be used as a window to that space energy, because you can change the fields with the right circuit and not change magnetic poles, but most are trained to close the loop, well if you do that you loose every time. Nature is an open system you can't close the loop.

THE TESLA SWITCH AND THE SCALAR CHARGER IS VERY TRICKY

This is all tricky work as we can not find a book on it. For over 30 + years I have been working with Bearden trying every circuit he talks about and I have proved 90% of it when done correct.

I'm only here to help if I can get people to look at things. This all should be common knowledge when it come to energy. At times I think everybody on Planet Earth is in the Twilight Zone, or It could be Me?

What is real funny is the other day I was looking for something and this group popped up. I started reading and said, what the hell, now is the time, one last try. Glad to meet you all, your a great bunch of people at least you try. Let's just get everybody to get it to work, no one left in the cold.
John B

I've done a little celebrating tonight, so bear with me, please.

I am no expert, but I have a working switch and have been studying it. I have run various loads from high amperage to low amperage, and this is what I believe from my system, although, I could and probably am wrong with my interpretation of these tests. You will know if what I'm saying is correct!

You say, "Batteries can be charged with potential only and no current". So,

I believe the picture you posted is for the purpose of equalizing the batteries. You have a 20ma load at 3.2 to 3.8 V more or less. You have a resistor in series with that load, so the "bulb" won't blow....I did blow one of these already (it was quite a fun time for me, not really!).

This circuit is charging the batteries without current, just potential. 20ma is not much current, but the potential is there. The bigger the battery, the less the current matters (it really doesn't need any current, but the bigger it is, the less it notices the small amount of current coming in), i.e. the more radiant can enter.

You could build this as big or as small as you want to do whatever you want. Power a load, or charge batteries, and maybe both at the same time if the load and batteries are a good match. You WILL be able to add some charge to the 12V batteries, but in the switch, at a 50% duty cycle, you will be subtracting some too. You need the 3524 to regulate the duty cycle, or have some kind of feedback on how much the batteries get "used".

When I was asking how to get the transistors from becoming hot, I was trying to power a load. The switch can do that, and much more, but if you want to charge your batteries, then don't use any current. If you do not use current, then your transistors do NOT get hot. This is why there are no heat sinks on those transistors in the photo even with those big batteries.

In the photo you shared, you designed it for charging and exploring the switch. Not using a load, so to speak. The load is so small as to be negligible, but still, there is the differential to take into account. To little differential and no charge. To much current and the batteries decrease in voltage. So, again, as you say, it is a tuning game. It is all in how you tune the system. (I'm guessing that the batteries could actually be run WAY down (in Voltage) and still function properly even though the meter says it is at zero volts, but I've been unwilling to sacrifice my batteries for my theories, so far.)

I have run the system "self running" by it's own switching after charging the cap to 12V. It will run forever as far as I know (over 4 hours) with no external power supply, although the switching must be relatively fast for this to occur. When the switching is to slow, it will not continue to run off the cap.

It is an remarkable device, capable of charging batteries, or running loads. It is all in WHAT you want to do. I always had a problem with that statement before, but that is the truth. If you want to run a big load, then run it, but heat sink the transistors or put them in parallel, or whatever the necessity calls for, but size the batteries appropriately to the load.

It can power a load and charge simultaneously. The tuning must be good for this to occur and the current consumed must be in tolerance.

I was mostly talking about that photo you posted. A small load will charge batteries. Big load, then the load has to be size right, or no charging will occur. This is the problem with most people that have gotten this to work at all. The batteries discharge. Either, the tuning was not properly done, or the load was too big for the batteries.

This could be used to charge all the batteries in a battery powered home....with NO solar panels. The batteries could charge themselves. It could change the world, if people believe and build. Build it and they will come!

My thoughts, (don't hit me too hard if I'm wrong please)

Leroy

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

I see spikes as high as 35V maybe higher at the switch points but only at certain frequencies. At others frequencies, no spikes. I think this is the critical point to get to. We all know (at least JBers) that the spikes are current or mostly so.

Leroy,
That is where the magic is, The spike is the key to the Dirac Sea that is where the negative energy pops out of, chase the spike.John B

[blackchisel97]

I'm glad I didn't go to bed yet. That was a great reading and thoughts you shared with us. I discovered yahoo forum shortly after your departure and felt jealous, that all these people had an opportunity to work under your guidance and upset that they blew it. I'm so happy that you stopped by and decided to "give a try one more time."

Thank you John

Vtech

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

blackchisel97,
You will get it to work, kinda figured that the capacitor was going to be the problem, and so is the cold on this chip. Like I said the old chips were much better at real low frequency. Like .1 cycles to 150KHZ. I made class D amplifiers with these chips at one time, also made phono amplifiers with them, they were good. I can't say what happened except they have cut cost on them and changed the frequency for the worse.
Play with it get to know it, you can do allot of things with it. I posted the internal diagrams of the chip inside. hope this helps.
John B

WOW! That's amazing and Congratulations This is very powerful statement and I can't wait to see with my own eyes and hear what John Bedini may say
BTW. I got my oscillator running Damn capacitors! I replaced them without any luck (I had 2uF electrolytic) and just before unplugging for the night I decided to give one more try with ceramic 1uF - and it works! I can adjust between 50 - 120 cpc. I wasn't sure about the value of d. cycle pot and used 50k. I was so embarrassed to say - it doesn't work Feeling better now!

Thank you all

Vtech