Use for the Tesla Switch

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Mat,
Try here and see if you understand what I'm saying. I think you all will catch it. Don't Let this guy kidd you about negative effects, he has not found the way to use it.
A Negative Differential Resistance Oscillator with a Negistor

KeelyNet on negative resistance - 04/07/00

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

All,
I think what I'm trying to say here is if you learn the correct switching for the devices "They will add the extra energy".
JB

Hi John, do you know if there has been any work done with switching through fiber optics? Seems to me if we could develop potiental switching this way, we could reduce the "heat and energy" required to to accomplish the switching.

Thought's
Bit's

[John_Bedini]

Tesla switch

Yes,
The phone company does this.

Hi John, do you know if there has been any work done with switching through fiber optics? Seems to me if we could develop potiental switching this way, we could reduce the "heat and energy" required to to accomplish the switching.

Thought's
Bit's

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi John B., I noticed you mentioned the radiant oscillators, your circuit and the joule thief circuit, thing is when I use your circuit it runs the npn transistor very well and cool and when I alter the circuit to joule thief configuration, the transistor tends to get hot. This has been bothering me for some time, could you or anyone explain why this is or how to fix this, since it seems from experiment that the joule thief circuit has a better linearity about it and can maintain a higher voltage or frequency with some current where as your circuit has to be tuned more within the load window. Any help in understanding what the difference is in how these two circuits drive the transistor would be helpful, thanks.
peace love light
Tyson

[Peter Lindemann]

A Little More History

Hi Folks,

Well, John and I told you we would be releasing more information on the History of the development of the "Tesla Switch". So, here it is.

In 1983, Ronald Brandt handed "all the documents" associated with the so-called Tesla Switch over to John Bedini. In a letter that accompanied this material, Ron tells John that he is no expert on this process, and that John is more likely to get it to work! This flies in the face of the "mythology" that Ronald Brandt developed this method.

Unappreciated at first, the documents included a newspaper clipping from 1974 about an invention by Fred A. Baldinelli. Baldinelli's "dual relay charger" circuit was able to produce up to 1500 watts, power his house, and not discharge the battery the system ran on. He also ran a car on the system, and these tests were witnessed by engineers from Ford Motor Company.

John and I currently believe that Brandt was TRYING to replicate Baldinelli's invention when he came up with the "Tesla Switch" and when he couldn't get it to work, that is when he gave the whole project to John. John DID get it to work, and his first working models, using transistor switching, date from about 1984.

John and I also currently believe that Brandt never ran a car on this process, but was simply relating what Baldinelli had done. Brandt apparently called it the "Tesla Switch" to obscure the real origins of the process.

So, here is the original article, published in the Boston Evening Globe in 1974. A copy of the original newspaper article, retrieved from the Globe Archives, is duplicated on the last page.

http://www.free-energy.ws/pdf/baldinelli_article.pdf

John and I are NOT trying to divert people's attention away from building and testing. What we are trying to do is help everyone, as much as possible. We both hope that people find this article illuminating.

Peter

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Skywatcher,
Since this is all about switching I will explain it to you.

The Joule thief circuit is a closed loop system ( Closed Transformer) This is where science has you brainwashed. You do not need to close the system as this is a limited device. It draws gobs of current right to the end.

The Radiant oscillator can be wound to do the same thing not closing in the magnetic fields. The Joule Thief can be made to use low current just by changing the base resistor this also will change the frequency of the oscillator. Since your running Led lights it make no difference.

If your clever you can run the circuit while charging another battery in a series configuration with the led's. Just change the base resistance and the transistor to a much bigger device.

The small plastic devices are for led's and not for CFC lights. Make the transformer with equal turns for the oscillator, then add the secondary winding, then adjust the base resistor, then protect the base to emitter junction with a diode. Yes I said diode you must limit the base current to .7 volts max, you will find that your transistor is in cross conduction current, "that is heat". You can do all this with an open loop transformer like the SG.

JB

[openmind2k]

1st post - maybe an easy way to achieve potential

Re: http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...tch-charg2.jpg

In the blue box of schematic JB mentions 14V. He does not say at least 14V though so my thoughts are unsure however:

Would we be damaging the batteries by placing them in sets of 3? i.e. 3 in series and 3 in parrallel. and achieving 24V potential difference, as we are not looking for current draw a low amperage 24V bulb may do this trick.

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

What we are trying to do is help everyone, as much as possible. We both hope that people find this article illuminating.

Peter

Very illuminating indeed Peter. Thanks to John and yourself for helping everyone. One could only imagine if the entire world adopted this philosophy.

Bit's

[SkyWatcher]

Hi peter, Hi john, thanks for the pdf and thanks for the info John. Yes my oscillator is open ended, I just alter bifilar between both circuit configurations for testing and have large secondary wrapped on outside for flouro. So it seems your saying the joule thief without the diode is cross conducting which is causing the heat compared to your circuit, I'll try the diode and see. Just looked it up, sorry for asking electronics questions I should already know, but thank you.
peace love light
Tyson

[Matthew Jones]

Success!!!

Thanks Peter. I was wondering when that was coming.

Anyway. I got switch thats going and its doing good.

2 runs now, one at 1 hour the other is running now. Both at 2 hertz.
I am using Solid State Relays for the switch's. These are nice.
I gave up on a building an oscilator and went to radio shack and bot a Parralax Stamp2 Home work board. I got to say I was embarrassed to buy this thing but now that I did I wish I had a year ago. I set it up to drive the relays.
The switching costs cause it uses a 9 volt battery, but I am working on that. Any suggestions would be helpful.

The first run got 1 hour of runtime out of a motor No loss. The batterries snapped back at 20 minute.
The second is going now, I'll run it 12 hours. The P. Stamp 2 chip will shut the system off for me. But from looking at the batteries they have not dropped, below startup voltage. So I am pretty sure of the results.

I have found in my load a similiar wave to the one Mr John drawed. The best pictures are at YouTube - GNwave2.MPG.
The Surges have a difference of about 3 times that of what the motor usually runs on the scope and the spikes range between 60 and 80 volt.

This is another flick YouTube - GNWave.MPG.
I shut half the system off for second so you could see the wave real clear. It has some funny Shapes.

MR John If you get a chance to watch them could you let me know if this is what we are looking for. Thanks

Here some shots of my pile of wire.
http://www.matthewcjones.com/power/TS1.JPG
http://www.matthewcjones.com/power/TS2.JPG
http://www.matthewcjones.com/power/TS3.JPG
http://www.matthewcjones.com/power/TS4.JPG

Cheers
Matt

[John_K]

3PDT Relay Tesla Switch

The 3PDT version I am working with is a mechanical version of the TS. No diodes, no (negative) transistors, etc. Perfect to learn what is going on in the circuit and how it behaves with different potentials and currents. ABout the only thing I have is the spike coming off the relay coil, which could be advantageous. The relay coil is driven from Battery #3.

Back to the shed then...

John K.

I managed to get some time to play over the weekend.

The first test was with 4 x 7Ah gel-cells. Since I haven't built the oscillator yet I focussed more varying the load and manually operating the 3PDT relay. I did find that if the load was kept under the C20 rate (350mA), charging was better and the 24V bank did not discharge as quickly.
I could see from this test that if I pulsed the relay at the right time I could "steal the surface charge" and get both banks to charge up.
I could also see that if I did not pulse the relay at all and let the 24V bank drop down to around 18V, the 24V bank would bounce back up slowly to ~19.5V whilst the 12V bank charged as well. Although over time both banks would eventually lose voltage.
For the second test, I swapped out the 7Ah's for 4 x 130Ah's. Batts 1&2 were fully charged and Batts 3&4 were at about 50%.
Again, I set the load for a 2A draw, which is about the C40 rate. This also gave good charging of the 12V bank whilst the 24V decreased slowly. In this test I also did not pulse the relay, but wanted to see what would happen to both banks over a long period of time.
After around 3 hours, the 12V bank went from ~12.5 to 13.0V and both Batts 3&4 were fizzing away. The 24V bank had dropped from ~26.2 to ~24.6V.
I let the setup run overnight. This morning (after ~10hrs) the 24V bank was down to ~19V and the 12V bank was at 13.16V.
I manually operated the relay and Batts 3&4 started to slowly drop from 26.2V and Batts 1&2 shot up to 11.5V within 1 minute. I'll see what's happening when I get home from work.
Next step is to build the oscillator and do some controlled tests.

John K.

[John_K]

3PDT Tesla Switch

Now this is getting interesting....

I was fooling around with the 3PDT mechanical relay Tesla Switch and decided to try some coils as a load.

I put on my large generator coil - 83 ohms of 0.5mm wire. 90mm x 90mm spool filled with wire.

It only draws <100mA, but boy does it give a kick when the relay is switched. None of my digital meters behave anymore, they all freak out.

The spikes on the scope are way off the scale, but here's the kicker...

Probing around with a NE-2 neon lamp, holding one leg in between my thumb and index finger and touching the other end in various positions around the circuit (relay contacts) produces bright orange flashes, whilst pulsing the relay.

Probing the battery terminals produces bright orange flashes, probing dried out electrolyte on top of the batteries produces bright orange flashes.

Removing the battery caps and probing inside the holes WITHOUT touching anything else produces smaller orange flashes.

Accidentally getting too close to the relay contacts whilst probing the inside of the battery produces a BIG electric shock from left hand to right hand and causes expletives to be yelled!

I really need to get the oscillator working

John K.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Ok I finally have found the best oscillator circuit that has good adjustable drive and doesnt heat the transistor, it was one posted by Ashweth I believe or someone in the Bedini solid state thread. Here it is, for those needing a nice oscillator circuit.
peace love light
Tyson

[lamare]

Hi folks, Ok I finally have found the best oscillator circuit that has good adjustable drive and doesnt heat the transistor, it was one posted by Ashweth I believe or someone in the Bedini solid state thread. Here it is, for those needing a nice oscillator circuit.
peace love light

Looks insteresting, thanks. This circuit appears to be first posted here:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...html#post18246

[ldissing]

I really need to get the oscillator working

John K.

John K.,

In post #67, JetiJS has a circuit that will do a 50/50 pulse. Ignore everything after the flip flop. Drive a transistor of the Q or Q bar outputs and use the transistor to drive the relay.

This circuit is the one I use right now, but I may end up going with a PIC eventually. Found a powerful one for 50 bucks that has PWM on it and includes a prototyping area like the stamp (but costs less) that Mathew was talking about, but needs to be programmed in C, so some people will not like that...doesn't matter to me, because I program in C all the time.

Wanted to post a picture with it all removed, but the size has to be just so, so with this forum and I did not take the time to do it, so look at that post.

Leroy