Use for the Tesla Switch

[ldissing]

Ground Currents

@JB,

JB, you mentioned ground currents in a previous post.

When you say ground currents...are you speaking about "true" ground currents, i.e. StubbleField, Moray, etc. OR, are you speaking about battery currents emanating from the negative of the batteries?

Leroy

P.S. I have considered a couple more transistors, switching the "true" ground to each side as the potentials are switching.

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Leroy,
Yes the real earth currents contain all the energy needed to charge batteries. The difficulty is building the cells. But what seems to work the best is magnesium and carbon for electrodes.

The switch must be low voltage. I have powered radios , lights and motors, and transmitted signals through the ground on the currents, it's not hard to modulate them without any losses. What was on the input side was miles away with the same signal.

I have seen SG motors running on these currents on YouTube charging batteries. The battery and capacitors are the best thing we have for capturing this energy right now. Once charged with a capacitor the energy has been converted to a battery charging current, if you do this start small scale until you understand what is going on with the currents.
It's all about switching.........
JB

@JB,

JB, you mentioned ground currents in a previous post.

When you say ground currents...are you speaking about "true" ground currents, i.e. StubbleField, Moray, etc. OR, are you speaking about battery currents emanating from the negative of the batteries?

Leroy

P.S. I have considered a couple more transistors, switching the ground to each side as the potentials are switching.

[ldissing]

Leroy,
Yes the real earth currents contain all the energy needed to charge batteries. The difficulty is building the cells. But what seems to work the best is magnesium and carbon for electrodes.

The switch must be low voltage. I have powered radios , lights and motors, and transmitted signals through the ground on the currents, it's not hard to modulate them without any losses. What was on the input side was miles away with the same signal.

I have seen SG motors running on these currents on YouTube charging batteries. The battery and capacitors are the best thing we have for capturing this energy right now. Once charged with a capacitor the energy has been converted to a battery charging current, if you do this start small scale until you understand what is going on with the currents.
It's all about switching.........
JB

Thanks JB

Leroy

[Plazma]

Zbat - at what frequency?

Hi Leroy,

Thanks for your post. Yes, I am aware of JB's statement about the 0.023 ohms for battery impedance. Does that 23 milliohms include the possible capacitance and possible self inductance of such a complex physical entity as a battery and, if so, at what switching/pulsation frequency? Or, maybe battery L&C effects are nil and DC resistance dominates. I know that impedance of other entities such as supercapacitors that use various mixes of paste-like electrolytes and nanotech-derived porous electrodes show massive shifts in impedances as a function of frequency - but that may not apply at all to lead/acid batteries. Resistance wise, the coil I have in mind is significantly (40x) the 23 milliohms but dynamically what is it. And, what is it with a light or LED across the coil(s) in parallel? I won't know anything until I test it but "intuitively" the concept is intriguing. Thanks for your thoughtful post and all the other contributions you've added - great stuff -

All the Best,

Plazma

JB said the "impedance" for a battery was .023 ohms, or 23 milli ohms. The "resistance" on that coil is way bigger than 23 milli ohms. It will do something, and it is a good thought, but an "impedance match" for a 12V battery...I do not think so, at least not a "great" one. That is my opinion only, don't take it as gospel.
***EDIT I would still give it a go though, if I could do some testing. You will get some output off the third coil while the current goes through...both ways...on the other two. It will be an interesting exercise!" ***EDIT

Leroy

[Plazma]

My "Comutator"

Hi citfta,

Thanks for your reply and the drawing - it read just fine. I see I need to clear up my communications a bit - since I do not have the mechanical skills to cut cams (or commutators either) as I am still learning both my SB-Lathe and Bridgeport Mill here in my shop, I have to lean on my modest skills at solid state. I have a decent microprocessor development lab built around MicroChip devices, mostly. So I have a development platform running a PIC that interfaces to a lab notebook that runs a VB derived front end for the PIC. I model a problem (like the Tesla Switch) in the PIC but I use the Graphics on the notebook to send setup parameters and commands to the PIC on what and how to run. I've found the original investment in time to program both the PIC primitives and the notebook Graphical interface has paid off massively over the last 2-3 years in terms of reduced development time and cost. Bottom line - I'm mostly digital/ss for now - but I have great admiration and respect for people that make mechanical devices do their magic.

Cheers,

Plazma

Plazma,

Here is a drawing I did of one way to make a Tesla Switch without any solid state parts. I tried this using relays and it did not charge although the batteries lasted a long time with a small load. I think it did not charge because I was switching way too fast according to John B. If you look at it you will see I have shown the left side switches in the parallel position and the right side switches in the series position. Maybe this will give you an idea how you can do this with your commutator. Good luck and be sure and let us know how it turns out. citfta


[ATTACH]4403[/ATTACH]


P.S. Sorry for the small size of the drawing I am still learning how to make drawings and attach them to my posts. LOL

[Murlin]

I am still learning both my SB-Lathe and Bridgeport Mill

Wow you have a South-bend eh? Haven't used one of those since the 70's.
Nice pieces of machinery though as the belts make them quite.

I have been in manufacturing for 30 years and have my own machine shop so if you have any questions on anything please feel free to shoot me a private message and I will gladly help you if I can.

regards,

Murlin

[Plazma]

SB13inch

Hi Murlin,

What I have is a used 13inch SB. I found a great 220V single-phase powered solid state drive (to give me 3 phase power) for the lathe and one for the mill. I really like both machines and I was very lucky to get machines in very good condition. The lap marks on the ways of both machines look factory new. You are right about the belt drive on the SB - very smooth and quiet. About the only things on it I've changed is added new felts to the oilers and an Alorin (sp?) tool post. Thanks for your kind offer of assistance - if I get stuck I'll PM.

Best,

Plazma

Wow you have a South-bend eh? Haven't used one of those since the 70's.
Nice pieces of machinery though as the belts make them quite.

I have been in manufacturing for 30 years and have my own machine shop so if you have any questions on anything please feel free to shoot me a private message and I will gladly help you if I can.

regards,

Murlin

[ldissing]

Hi Leroy,

Thanks for your post. Yes, I am aware of JB's statement about the 0.023 ohms for battery impedance. Does that 23 milliohms include the possible capacitance and possible self inductance of such a complex physical entity as a battery and, if so, at what switching/pulsation frequency? Or, maybe battery L&C effects are nil and DC resistance dominates. I know that impedance of other entities such as supercapacitors that use various mixes of paste-like electrolytes and nanotech-derived porous electrodes show massive shifts in impedances as a function of frequency - but that may not apply at all to lead/acid batteries. Resistance wise, the coil I have in mind is significantly (40x) the 23 milliohms but dynamically what is it. And, what is it with a light or LED across the coil(s) in parallel? I won't know anything until I test it but "intuitively" the concept is intriguing. Thanks for your thoughtful post and all the other contributions you've added - great stuff -

All the Best,

Plazma

I really just want to help...and figure this stuff out with the rest of you!

I was going to say what I thought about JBs 10 coiler, but this is not the place. 40X #18 wire (or #20) x 100 feet, 2.25amp draw per transistor, etc., with BIG batteries would get you down there on the coils, but that is for another forum.

I never want to put anybody down...because I don't like to be put down, but that is another story and personal issue.

Glad to be of any assistance.

Leroy

[citfta]

Mistaken identity

@ Plazma,

Sorry, that was really my mistake. There are some many people on here now that I got mixed up on who was doing what. That post should have been directed to Murlin I think.


@Murlin,


If it was you that was looking for a purely mechanical approach to the Tesla Switch please see post #1213. Sorry guys, citfta

[nvisser]

Hi Leroy,

Thanks for taking the time to look at my circuit. I appreciate your comments. I have learned so much from this forum and especially this thread. Most of the time I can only read and try to learn. But sometimes I can see another way to do something. I am retired after working most of my adult life repairing electrical and electronic equipment. After reading John's comments about the scalar charger I have finally gotten mine to charge batteries. Hooray! Thanks to everyone for all their input to this thread.


citfta (Carroll)

Hi Citfta
This is indeed exiting
Nobody is writing about the scaler charger anymore and it looks like you are the only one that could get the battery to charge. My battery picked up 0.1v once overnight but the oscillator was running from a separate battery so I thought nothing of it.
Can you be so kind to post more information on the charging you got, like what caps, load, frequency and duty cycle you used and how much the battery voltage went up?

[nvisser]

Gang,
I will post a charger that Energenx makes for Solar, as everybody knows the efficiency of the panel is limited because it can't charge the battery correct. The solar panel does not work with white light it only works in the far inferred range. With a little engineering the panels will charge batteries in low light. The best way to see these gains is when you put nothing in. If you look at all the circuits I have posted you will see what John is talking about. Everybody should be working on what I call the Solar oscillator. I will post what I can to help.
JB

Hi John
Will you post it on this thread?
Can`t wait anymore!!
Vissie

[StevanC]

Steve,
If you look at this circuit it was taken from the window motor. but when you really look at it, it's close to the scalar charger but who knows exactly what Ron was trying to do with it. He never said much about it.
So this hard to answer your question on this one. Ron had some strange names for things, like Par Switch which I think he is talking about a parallel switch. This is what I mean in the drawing below.
JB

A. The left one seems to be what I was told is called "emitter follower"?

The circuit I find in HOWTOs all over the net and "usual" circuits.

B. The right seems to be a part of the full bipolar powerstage of the WM with only one trigger (uper base) biased forward?

I uderstood the term "par switch" (funny name as You say, i agree) as a "pair switch" a switch with a "doble action"?

But any how, sadly, there are people with whom we have questions we couldn't get time to ask to "the bottom of the barrel".

Anyhow, thank You wery much, You answers shed light to many "blind spots", and I will try hard to shed light "far and long"


Best regards,
Stevan C.

[citfta]

Scalar charger

Hi Vissie,


Well my circuit ended up being more like half a Tesla switch than a scalar charger. I realized after going back over John B's posts that my capacitors were too small for the size of my battery. So I wondered what would happen if I connected another battery in parallel with each of the capacitors. So I am actually using 2 batteries to charge one. I then adjusted my pulse width to very short on time with about 1/2 second off time. This allows the charging battery to charge up without draining the other batteries. I used a number 47 bulb as the load and adjusted the pulse so that it pulses to about 3/4 full brightness. If your pulse is too long I feel sure you will burn out the bulb because it is only a 6 volt bulb and you have the potential to charge with close to 12 volts. After about 4 hours of charging the charge battery went up to 13.2 volts from 12.60 and the other batteries went down from 12.82 and 12.84 to 12.77 and 12.74 respectfully. At this time I swapped out the lowest battery for the charged one and continued on with the test. I was not able to continue the testing because the SG3425 circuit keeps wanting to quit. I think I have that problem solved now after 3 days of troubleshooting and have resumed my testing. The batteries I am using are conditioned 7AH batteries. I hope this answers most of your questions about my testing. By the way the timing capacitor seems to be the weak spot with the SG3524 circuit. I tried several ones before I found one that will continue to run. I have now a 2.2 uf electrolytic. I had tried monolithic and tantalum and non-polarized electrolytic and they all quit after running for a couple of hours. Don't know why. Hope this helps, citfta

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

D-TS Oscope shot

bit's,
Little more dead time.
Jb

Team, please take a look and see if this what we are after.

YouTube - D-TS Test 1.MPG

Thanks

Bit's

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Bit's, that is looking much better. For those that are having problems with the SG3524n regulator. Tie pins 4 and 5 to ground put a 4.5 k resistor from pin 16 to pin 2 then put a 20 K to ground from pin 2 make sure pin 1 is tied to pin 9. Ground bus is very important.
JB