Use for the Tesla Switch

[ldissing]

How long do you leave the switch running before you rotate batteries?

Bill

Until the 3rd battery hits it's charge termination point which is normally around 14.5 V for a flooded lead acid battery. Look at your battery specs.

Leroy

[wwdotme]

well that is what I thought but after looking at john's picture
he shows b3 postion start charging b2 position charging
b1 position charging and b3 position charged
So I didn't know if they needed to be rotated at any given
time or voltage.

Thanks Bill

[stonewater]

3 batt switch

I was under the impression that you were supposed to shuttle the battery positions around every 10 minutes, but that did not prove effective for me, so I began leaving them on for longer until the battery in position 3 would go above the voltage of the 2 other batteries. I did this 8 times here are the results

voltages at start of run:

batt 1 12.97
batt2 12.93
batt 3 12.26

so 2 fully charged one discharged

after 8 cycles AND 24 hr rest of all three

batt 1 12.93
batt 2 12.92
batt 3 12.97

and I was running a light bulb the whole time, a little 555 bulb for an auto dash 6.7 ohm when cold, it was a bulb that I had laying around and the only one that would light up when the circuit was on.

I am going to do this again with a 2 fully charged and one discharged with the battery in position 3 charging to 14.5

potentials at work

Tom C

[wwdotme]

Stonewater
Have you tried a small dc motor on your load instead of a bulb?
I would be very curious to see what results you get.

Bill

[stonewater]

Stonewater
Have you tried a small dc motor on your load instead of a bulb?
I would be very curious to see what results you get.

Bill

no I have not, I am not sure if I have a small enough dc motor. I don't have any brushed dc motors. none of the brushless fans I used worked. they were various sizes from computer stuff. perhaps an HO scale slot car motor would be small enough.

Tom C

[wwdotme]

mine was out of a printer about the size of a pill bottle.
I ask because either the cold effected my meters or different batteries charged. when I ran the motor.
But I'm leaning towards my meter being incorrect for now.

[blackchisel97]

SC rising

A. I saw one "self charging setup" using just 12-18 turns on a feritte core as a"choke" in line on one rail (i think it was positive)
B. I too have one pulse "glow" and one pulse "not really bright" (the back pulse IMHO) when i use 75000uF caps (3W bulb)
C. We miss JB guidance slowly here
D. the capacitors should be matching the load and both matching the batery I see now

happy new year

Stevan C.

Hello guys,
I spent last 24hrs trying to figure out unknown variables of SC. For the first time I see battery voltage rising. Not much, 0.02V within 30min. Here is what I found so far:

A. Oscillator, H11 (all three) and battery neg. must be connected together. There should be "ground" symbol at the emitter/cap/neg. battery on the diagram which I posted earlier.
B. SG seems to be very fussy about the ground as well. There is no problem switching 20Hz up but near or below 2Hz internal flip-flop doesn't work smooth. This particular IC is also very fussy about timing cap. It won't work with just any given. I tried variety of 1u - 2uF electrolytic, forget it! Maybe tantalum would work but I don't have any small like that to try it. It works with monolith 1u but this will get freq. near 2-4Hz not below and I believe that we need to get below that.
I managed to get down to 0.9Hz with 2.2uF. I tried first 10000 and 15000 uF banks. I wound new coil on 2" (5cm) ferrite toroid. I have 300T AWG26 and 36T same wire. What I did, I used small winding as a load, left grain bulb in series. 300T winding connected at the "+" of the cap/collector and second lead of this coil in series with neon - anode of 1n4007 and cathode to the positive of battery. With 15000uF caps grain bulb was flashing as before - bright and glow but when I replace caps with 120uF photo caps, bulb doesn't glow. Neon glows at every charging pulse going to the battery and...voltage is about to grow another 0.01V since i started writing (15min). I put neon to see the pulse.
The only problem I still have is the oscillator. At such low freq. it doesn't flip properly each time. Sometimes will switch one side twice or three times before flipping. Most annoying IC I ever work with
I'll keep watching it but so far I gained 0.03V within an hour. I still pay for switching (separate battery) but at least there is something going on.
I have couple ideas how to change SG circuit to make it work but don't want to disturb current setup which is soldered on pcb. I'll try to make another flip flop to test when I'll be sure this one works.
Edit: There is not much going on in the past 2 hrs. Voltage remains the same. Need to think this over. Need some rest I think.


Vtech

[nvisser]

Flip Flop

Why dont you use the TL494. You can find them in old pc power supplies.
StevanC posted a circuit. See post 1366 and 1367.
I get them to run from about 0.4 Hz with a very small duty cycle

[John_K]

Scalar Charger

I have my SC running off a 555 in flip-flop mode. I can adjust freqency down to 0.1Hz and also adjust duty cycle from 1% to 50%. It's a bit fiddly to adjust because when I adjust the frequency it throws the d/c out.

Currently it's running at 6.8Hz 48% and the battery increases 0.01V every 10 minutes or so. At least it's not going down.

Load is ~1000T 0.5mm ECW (#24?) or 80.3 ohms.
I see spikes of +22V and -18V on the scope but when the scope is connected the battery doesn't charge any more.

I'm also using VA2352N solid-state relays instead of H11D1's. (All I had on-hand). I'm also paying for switching from a separate battery.

John K.

[John_K]

Scalar Charger

After a bit more tweaking it seems like the battery is charging a little faster.

If I scope across both capacitors (+ of C1 and - of C2) I can see a ringing wave which is ~20V pk-pk. Not sure if it means anything. Each wave is ~80mS apart, which coincides with the CHARGE pulse.

I now have the timer running at ~5mS CHARGE time and ~75mS DISCHARGE time. Meter shows 10.7Hz.

Caps are 6,800uF 50V.

All fun and games this...

John K.

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Another Coil that works well

Team, here is another coil idea that is showing promise. Cut some 1/8 inch think welding rod to about 4 inches in length. Cut enough to make about a 3/4 inch diameter mass. Then take 22AWG and wind just one pass the whole length of the welding rods. Make two. Then hook them up across J5 and J6 without any LED's or other resistors. My batteries are now charging slowly.

Thanks.

Bit's

[blackchisel97]

Why dont you use the TL494. You can find them in old pc power supplies.
StevanC posted a circuit. See post 1366 and 1367.
I get them to run from about 0.4 Hz with a very small duty cycle

I don't have any and no device to salvage them from. Local Radio Shark (only one) has nothing, no IC's at all. The only way to get something is to order or eBay - which I prefer but MJL's would be first on my list. My budget is extremely limited since I left my "exciting" bodyguard job
There is no progress in charging. Battery remains the same after 10hrs. I'll try to change something tonight. I'm very patient person but have to remind myself of that frequently
Bit's, I'll try you coil in SC, just in case. It seems closer in mH to what J.B advised. I can see the difference in capacitance matching but can't figure out yet which way to go. More testing. What bothers me is the current which circuit pulls with shortened load. Transistors not fully biased?


Vtech

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Seven C,
I was out of state, had no computer hook up and the phone was way to slow for internet, but I'm here. Hope you all had a good New Year. I'm still reading all the posts here to play catch up. I will answer all I can shortly.
JB

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Seven C,
I was out of state, had no computer hook up and the phone was way to slow for internet, but I'm here. Hope you all had a good New Year. I'm still reading all the posts here to play catch up. I will answer all I can shortly.
JB

Hi John, welcome back.

Bit's

[blackchisel97]

Hi John, welcome back.

Bit's

Hi John, I'm glad to see you

Vtech