Use for the Tesla Switch

[Mark]

Hello John

Nice videos. How are the magents aranged on your rotor. I'm currently running half a window motor circuit on a 3 pole monopole.

Is that basically what I'm running except with the coil layed on its side?

I'd would like to replicate I'f you dont mind. Can you please give out a few more details on the rotor and coil.

Mark

[nvisser]

Hello John

Nice videos. How are the magents aranged on your rotor. I'm currently running half a window motor circuit on a 3 pole monopole.

Is that basically what I'm running except with the coil layed on its side?

I'd would like to replicate I'f you dont mind. Can you please give out a few more details on the rotor and coil.

Mark

Has this something to do with the Steorn motor?
I cannot watch You tube from here so not sure.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, thanks for vids John B., sure looks like Joseph Newmans motor with the magnets outside the coil version, of course solid state switching. May I ask, is this motor free of counter emf/generator effect from permanent magnets, it seemed in the video that is what you were saying, just making sure. Thanks John Bedini.
peace love light
Tyson

[blackchisel97]

Has this something to do with the Steorn motor?
I cannot watch You tube from here so not sure.

There is one motor running of the bipolar switch + Hall with coil under but laying on the side, not vertical and without the core at first. Motor runs at 2k rpm drawing 0.1A. Later John slides an iron core and motor increases its speed to 3k, while current draw drops down to maybe 0.01A at 3V. That's in uW range I'll give you the link to my photobucket, hopefully you'll be able to watch it -
Next videos are motors with toroidal coil. Current draw is 0.75A - 0.95A, much slower speed and coil is slightly over 100 degF. Very nice and clear demonstration with comparison of both ideas. I don't have much room left in photobucket to upload remaining two videos and I hope John won't mind me sharing his videos this way

Vtech

[John_K]

@John K. What size capacitors did you use in your SC and how fast you're switching? I'm trying to get it run with modified 555. I can't control "dead" time but it allows me to work under 1Hz and up with d.c of 50% or less. I know is far from perfect but that's all I have in my bin, beside SG's.
I tried with 4700uF caps and 5W bulb. I can find a spot where she glows but battery drops. Next try was with 470uF caps and grain bulb. I can see two pulses, one brighter and battery remains steady but no gain during 20min. I run approx. 3Hz right now. Motorcycle LA battery.

Thanks

Vtech

Hi Vtech,

Caps were 6,800uF 50V from an old power supply, made by Sprague. When I got the halogen bulb to glow dimly I was switching at around 10Hz, but as I said my 555 osclillator was not tuned properly - I was using the 1N914 between pin 3 and 2 trick to get the duty cycle <50%, but I had adjusted the pot over pin 6 and 7 to get close to 50%, no dead time.

The 555 was in flip-flop mode. I had a green LED to between pin 3 and Vcc to indicate the "CHARGE" cycle and a red LED between pin 3 and ground to indicate the "DISCHARGE" cycle. The green LED was in series with 2 opto SS relays which drove the top and bottom MJL21194's and the red LED in series with a third opto SS relay which drove the middle MJL21194. Each LED also had a 330ohm resistor in series to protect it.

The higher I went on the frequency the brighter the bulb got, but I think I need to go higher. Once I've finished testing my variation of the 4 battery TS, I'l fix up the oscillator and have another go at it.

I hope this is clear enough, it's hard to put a circuit into words sometimes. Let me know if you have any questions.

John K.

[John_K]

P.S. I'm going for tuning to the resonant sub-harmonic and for the bulb to light up full and the meters to read zero. Remember when Tom Bearden inspected Bill and Ray's SC, the battery measured dead flat, but the bulb still lit up.

John K.

[blackchisel97]

Hi Vtech,

Caps were 6,800uF 50V from an old power supply, made by Sprague. When I got the halogen bulb to glow dimly I was switching at around 10Hz, but as I said my 555 osclillator was not tuned properly - I was using the 1N914 between pin 3 and 2 trick to get the duty cycle <50%, but I had adjusted the pot over pin 6 and 7 to get close to 50%, no dead time.

The 555 was in flip-flop mode. I had a green LED to between pin 3 and Vcc to indicate the "CHARGE" cycle and a red LED between pin 3 and ground to indicate the "DISCHARGE" cycle. The green LED was in series with 2 opto SS relays which drove the top and bottom MJL21194's and the red LED in series with a third opto SS relay which drove the middle MJL21194. Each LED also had a 330ohm resistor in series to protect it.

The higher I went on the frequency the brighter the bulb got, but I think I need to go higher. Once I've finished testing my variation of the 4 battery TS, I'l fix up the oscillator and have another go at it.

I hope this is clear enough, it's hard to put a circuit into words sometimes. Let me know if you have any questions.

John K.

Hi John K.

Thanks for explanation. Yes, it is very clear I did exactly the same thing, except the impulse diode between 6-7, so cap is charged through both resistors but discharged via one, since second is shortened by the diode.My resistors limiting LED's current are 470 Ohms. I think I could also run from pin 3 via 10k to the center of 100k pot and 2 diodes from the pot ends (inverted -cathode of one and anode of second to the pot) then free anode and cathode together to the pin 6-2. Just thinking, please ignore
My caps are Cornell Dubilier, 7,500uF/450V. I can't get any bigger load to glow. I tried with 5W auto bulb but I can find a spot where filament just gets orange. I have 2 pulses on small grain bulb, one dimm one bright and battery was the same after 12hrs. Well not quite the success since I'm paying for switching. I wonder if transistors are that critical to be exact. If so, I'm wasting time and should get MJL's in the first place More trials and errors. More fun and learning.

@John Bedini Thank you for your answer about the video
@RS Thank you for schematics very nice!
@ nvisser Vissie, were you able to watch that clip?


Vtech

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

My caps are Cornell Dubilier, 7,500uF/450V. Vtech

Vtech, if possible you may want to try Caps that are closer to the highest level of the series batts. I would say 35V range would be a good start.

Bit's

[blackchisel97]

Vtech, if possible you may want to try Caps that are closer to the highest level of the series batts. I would say 35V range would be a good start.

Bit's

Hi Bit's,
I thought of that but don't have enough low V capacitors. I'll check again my small supply of parts
Thanks for the advise

Vtech

Edit: found some and now I have 6800uF per bank.

[John_K]

Hi John K.
I have 2 pulses on small grain bulb, one dimm one bright and battery was the same after 12hrs. Vtech

Vtech,

One pulse is the charge and one is the discharge - looks kind of like a heart beat. I believe the dim pulse is the discharge, but not 100% without having it in front of me. I could see it at around 1Hz.

When the freq. is high enough they both blend in together, too fast for the eye.

Note that when I got the 50W bulb to glow dimly, it took a few seconds to go from no glow on the filament to a little bit - almost like a cap charging up.

I think I'm close to the "sweet spot", just need to play around a bit more. If I get it I'll post a video.

John K.

[blackchisel97]

Vtech,

One pulse is the charge and one is the discharge - looks kind of like a heart beat. I believe the dim pulse is the discharge, but not 100% without having it in front of me. I could see it at around 1Hz.

When the freq. is high enough they both blend in together, too fast for the eye.

Note that when I got the 50W bulb to glow dimly, it took a few seconds to go from no glow on the filament to a little bit - almost like a cap charging up.

I think I'm close to the "sweet spot", just need to play around a bit more. If I get it I'll post a video.

John K.

Hi John,

"Heartbeat", that's exactly what I see. I think (from what I see) that bright pulse is discharge. Everything you have described is matching my observation, except the bulb size and I don't have any quartz lamp to try it.

Thanks
Vtech

[John_K]

Hi John,

"Heartbeat", that's exactly what I see. I think (from what I see) that bright pulse is discharge. Everything you have described is matching my observation, except the bulb size and I don't have any quartz lamp to try it.

Thanks
Vtech

You're probably right about the bright pulse - I'm at work so can't confirm.

I got my quartz lamp from one of those 12v downlights. You can buy spare bulbs from any supermarket.

John K.

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Here is the schematic

@Vtech
Here is Version 2.2.3

Thanks.

[redcar1957]

ge 108's

John B I received some GE 108's How big are these that you and I talked about?
of course I got them out of Russia just need to know this detail
You can PM me if need be
Thanks Kevin

P.S. It's late here and we are expecting an ice storm before morning
so i am going to crash early i have to determine if our company will open in the morning -- i'll be there since i work for Caterpillar.

[John_Bedini]

Tesla Switch

Kevin,
The GE108 transistors are hockey puck size from what I remember, ya we are getting blasted here with just extreme cold 7 degrees right now.
JB