Use for the Tesla Switch

[ErikN]

Hi Bits,
Thanks for the circuit correction.

After my initial (bungled) attempt at using two SCs to make a TS, I redid it per your schematic (PICAXE is under external power yet) and have been running it for about 4 days trying different size bulbs, timing, etc. Best I could do was small 1.3W bulbs and losing .03V / day.

I'll report back after some more testing.

Thanks!
Erik

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

New observation

While running the D-TS with 2 (1157) bulbs, I took the Rat Shack 6.3 bulb and connected it to the ground side of each bulb. Of course the 1157's don't glow any more and the 6.3 only glows with every half cycle. This is expected. What is not expected is that my charge rate went up.


Bit's

[Mark]

Alright if the batteries are really gaining in charge do you really need them. Why cant you just charge up some big caps and use them instead of the batteries.

[blackchisel97]

While running the D-TS with 2 (1157) bulbs, I took the Rat Shack 6.3 bulb and connected it to the ground side of each bulb. Of course the 1157's don't glow any more and the 6.3 only glows with every half cycle. This is expected. What is not expected is that my charge rate went up.


Bit's

Getting more and more interesting

@Mark Charging process inside the batteries and capacitors is not quite the same.

Vtech

[Inquorate]

Bedini coil 3 batt tesla switch - Vox

Long time coming, start testing tomorrow

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Bedini coil 3 batt tesla switch - Vox

Long time coming, start testing tomorrow

Good Luck, have a pint of bitter for me as well,

Cheers

Bit's

[Murlin]

Interesting results last night

Tried a 1 ohm coil around the spark gap but there was no spark to be collected.

With the lights out the commutator was barely generating a faint blue spark.
There was no white spark at all, oh well. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

That wasn't the interesting part. I machined my brushes down to change the timing.

Load was a very bright 500 MA, 3.57 volt bulb. About 3 volts left over at the bridge.
I figure I was charging the batteries and making about 1 amp @ 7 volts DC.

This time the lamp would burn at real high frequencies but the batteries would only charge at extremely low frequency. I haven't figured it out yet but I think it is well below 50 HZ where as the previous timing the voltage would peak out at 180 HZ.

The batteries seemed to start charging whenever I adjusted the speed of my motor to obtain over 14 volts across the positive of a battery to the negative side of the bridge. Peak voltages on the batteries ranged from 14 to 18 volts.
I can adjust that voltage to a wide range with the motor speed control. From 8 to 18 volts on batteries 2 and 4 and from 8 to barely over 14 volts on 1 and 3.

Net voltage gain was a total of .5 volts in an hour of running the switch.

I can't run it very long because my motor does not like running that slow, I need to get a lower RMP motor.. sigh

With 4 sets of switches instead of three, it might be possible that a mechanical solution can be achieved without the aid of semi conductors at all...just 4 batteries, some copper and steel...the mere basic of materials....it will work just as Tesla intended.

A high torque, low RPM, PM motor to run the switch will produce a self running machine. You could also run it off a water wheel if you had to The mechanical solution might come in handy should one not have access to high tech manufactured parts....


regards,

Murlin

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Tried a 1 ohm coil around the spark gap but there was no spark to be collected.

With the lights out the commutator was barely generating a faint blue spark.
There was no white spark at all, oh well. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

That wasn't the interesting part. I machined my brushes down to change the timing.

Load was a very bright 500 MA, 3.57 volt bulb. About 3 volts left over at the bridge.
I figure I was charging the batteries and making about 1 amp @ 7 volts DC.

This time the lamp would burn at real high frequencies but the batteries would only charge at extremely low frequency. I haven't figured it out yet but I think it is well below 50 HZ where as the previous timing the voltage would peak out at 180 HZ.

The batteries seemed to start charging whenever I adjusted the speed of my motor to obtain over 14 volts across the positive of a battery to the negative side of the bridge. Peak voltages on the batteries ranged from 14 to 18 volts.
I can adjust that voltage to a wide range with the motor speed control. From 8 to 18 volts on batteries 2 and 4 and from 8 to barely over 14 volts on 1 and 3.

Net voltage gain was a total of .5 volts in an hour of running the switch.

I can't run it very long because my motor does not like running that slow, I need to get a lower RMP motor.. sigh

With 4 sets of switches instead of three, it might be possible that a mechanical solution can be achieved without the aid of semi conductors at all...just 4 batteries, some copper and steel...the mere basic of materials....it will work just as Tesla intended.

A high torque, low RPM, PM motor to run the switch will produce a self running machine. You could also run it off a water wheel if you had to The mechanical solution might come in handy should one not have access to high tech manufactured parts....


regards,

Murlin

Nice update Murlin. Instead of a new motor, perhaps you could chage the RPM through pully's and seperate shaft driving the commutator?


Bit's

[citfta]

My New Tesla Switch

Hi team,



After being gone for a couple of weeks I am back at work on my Tesla switch research. I have built another Tesla Switch using only transistors and no diodes. Of course if you need a DC output you would have to use a bridge and cap as the load. I am using the picaxe18x as my controller and have separated the firing of the transistors as follows. I can independently fire each one of the series transistors and I have the parallel transistors on each side firing at the same time. This way I can turn on the series transistor and then turn on the parallel transistors or vice versa.

At the present I am still searching for the right timing and duty cycle that will give me some charging. I am turning on the series transistor and then 10 ms later I am turning on the parallel transistors on the other side for 125 ms. I then turn off the series transistor after a 10 ms delay. I then wait for 500 ms and then fire the other side in the same way. I am using an old taillight bulb for the load and I can't read the number anymore on the bulb. I am getting some interesting results though. Right after I turn off the switch to get some readings on the batteries I see they are about .1 volt lower than when I started the test run. This is after a few hours of running. However if I let them rest overnight then in the morning they will be almost back to where they were before the test. And this morning 2 of them were .01 volts higher than yesterday when I started the test. I have seen that same thing a couple of times when running my window motor if I could get everything just right.

Oh I almost forgot, I am using 7AH 12V SLABs. The transistors are MJL21194s. I am including the schematic for anyone wanting to try the same thing. And as always any suggestions as to timing or duty cycle or load or anything else I may have overlooked are always welcome.


@Bits, Thanks some much for the suggestion about the picaxe chips. It was really easy to learn to program and is so much more accurate than messing around with timers and other stuff. When you said your charging increased after adding the 6.3 volt bulb, did it increase on all the batteries or only the bottom 2 or top 2?



Carroll

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Hi team,



After being gone for a couple of weeks I am back at work on my Tesla switch research. I have built another Tesla Switch using only transistors and no diodes. Of course if you need a DC output you would have to use a bridge and cap as the load. I am using the picaxe18x as my controller and have separated the firing of the transistors as follows. I can independently fire each one of the series transistors and I have the parallel transistors on each side firing at the same time. This way I can turn on the series transistor and then turn on the parallel transistors or vice versa.

At the present I am still searching for the right timing and duty cycle that will give me some charging. I am turning on the series transistor and then 10 ms later I am turning on the parallel transistors on the other side for 125 ms. I then turn off the series transistor after a 10 ms delay. I then wait for 500 ms and then fire the other side in the same way. I am using an old taillight bulb for the load and I can't read the number anymore on the bulb. I am getting some interesting results though. Right after I turn off the switch to get some readings on the batteries I see they are about .1 volt lower than when I started the test run. This is after a few hours of running. However if I let them rest overnight then in the morning they will be almost back to where they were before the test. And this morning 2 of them were .01 volts higher than yesterday when I started the test. I have seen that same thing a couple of times when running my window motor if I could get everything just right.

Oh I almost forgot, I am using 7AH 12V SLABs. The transistors are MJL21194s. I am including the schematic for anyone wanting to try the same thing. And as always any suggestions as to timing or duty cycle or load or anything else I may have overlooked are always welcome.


@Bits, Thanks some much for the suggestion about the picaxe chips. It was really easy to learn to program and is so much more accurate than messing around with timers and other stuff. When you said your charging increased after adding the 6.3 volt bulb, did it increase on all the batteries or only the bottom 2 or top 2?



Carroll

I ran out of time to measure all of the batts although batts 2 and 4 increased by .8 tenths of a volt. I will continue more testing to see. In your setup can you display the code? The PICAXE are fun and very flexible.

Thanks

Bit's

[Murlin]

Instead of a new motor, perhaps you could charge the RPM through pulley's and separate shaft driving the commutator?

Yes but you would have to see the machine. It is being driven in line of the shaft of the motor with a rubber coupler. All the machining, redesigning and such, it would be easier to just replace the 10krpm motor with a 3600 RPM motor @ from Grainger to continue forward with my experments...but even then you might be right, it might need to be reduced to be able to run the machine for extended testing cycles @ under 1k RPM. The motor I have needs to at least run at 3k for the fan to cool the windings.

In the end, that motor was going to be replaced by one I make anyway. Probably one like JB,s Window motor, or Peters attraction motor since it looks to be extremely powerful with that close air gap. I need to research Peters motor and see how much juice it requires to run.....But I am still tossing around ideas about a morphed SG/Steorn....

But what ever motor I use to make it a self runner has to run on whatever the bridge will produce...

JB was correct...Free energy isn't free...I have a load of time and cash in this gizmo


regards,

Murlin

[nvisser]

I don’t know where Mr. Bedini went
WE all built all this circuits but are waiting in vain to get any feedback.
I believe the circuits on Mr. bedini`s website are correct and that it can work with analog flip flops by introducing only some dead time.
We all blew diodes and transistors by building the simplified circuit. Mr. Bedini answered me and said I have to use big diodes and a huge load.
Why?
Bits introduced a pnp transistor to stop the feedback. I still don’t get it
If that pnp are normally on as claimed we are feeding back the voltage to course a short over Q1 till Q9 opens.
It will make the bottom lamp burn as there are no pnp to stop the short
Mr. bedini if you read this can you please clear this up for me.
I introduced the optos as you posted, onto your cigar box TS with 6 transistors.
I do see the pressure building up to 24v with slow pulsing on the scope . Not on a digital millimeter as it cannot display so fast.
I went and pulse the parallel side a bit later to drop the 24V on them and I can see the voltage pulses on them going above 12v with every pulse but then as they go in series they loose more.
I also built a mosfet TS with proper mosfet drivers with very low losses over the transistors and no diodes and introduced what you told us by adjusting the loads.
Still the magic charging does not happened
You did promise earlier on this thread that you will hang around till everybody here get the TS to work
I saved all your post on the Ts and try to introduce it into the circuits.
I got the correct transistors as bits were so nice to post them to South Africa for me.
I do realize that some people was giving you lip on the Open letter to Peter L.
You even said there that you are finished listening to that and that you are moving back to the TS tread
I do appreciate all he stuff you posted about the solar TS and even about the eternal lights and how you shed some light on Moray’s generator. I am still busy reading that.
You gave me brilliant ideas on the solar charger which I really want to try as soon as I can get this switch to to what you say it can do.
I built a new joule thief circuit as you suggested charging batteries from my solar panel in low light. I swapped the trigger wires around as you said but of course than it would not work. Then you posted the solar charger video and John k post what the patent was. Anyway that patent showed me to connect the bottom trigger wire that normally goes to 0V on the ssg, to the positive
What a brilliant circuit. I turned a new bifilar coil, square---as wide as it is high--aircore.This thing is a monster. It starts to self oscillate from 0.7v and if I drive it from a small 350ma 14v transformer it charges a 330uf cap up to 90v when the neon lights up in only 1.5 seconds. I will use it to condition my batteries to see if I get more success on the Ts and any of the other bedini ideas.
Mr. Bedini if you can find the time will you please give us more ideas on the simplified circuit you posted before Christmas and how it will be possible to use large diodes and a large load without causing a short over the series transistor as the load is only on the negative side
Regards
Visssie

[citfta]

Picaxe code for all transistor version TS.

Hi gang,

This is the code I am using for the 6 transistor circuit I posted earlier. Pin 1 turns on Q2 and then pin 2 turns on Q4 and Q6 after the 10 ms delay. Then Q4 and Q6 turn off after the 125 ms delay. Then after another 10 ms delay pin 1 turns off to turn off Q2. After a 500 ms delay the same thing happens for the other side with Q5 turning on first and then Q1 and Q3 turning on. Pin 3 controls Q5 and pin 4 controls Q1 and Q3.


Well when I tried to upload it I kept getting a file error so I'll just type it in and hope it comes out in a readable format. LOL


Main:

high 1

pause 10

high 2

pause 125

low 2

pause 10

low 1

pause 500

high 3

pause 10

high 4

pause 125

low 4

pause 10

low 3

pause 500

goto main

[citfta]

Picaxe code for all transistor version TS.

Hi gang,

This is the code I am using for the 6 transistor circuit I posted earlier. Pin 1 turns on Q2 and then pin 2 turns on Q4 and Q6 after the 10 ms delay. Then Q4 and Q6 turn off after the 125 ms delay. Then after another 10 ms delay pin 1 turns off to turn off Q2. After a 500 ms delay the same thing happens for the other side with Q5 turning on first and then Q1 and Q3 turning on. Pin 3 controls Q5 and pin 4 controls Q1 and Q3.


Well when I tried to upload it I kept getting a file error so I'll just type it in and hope it comes out in a readable format. LOL


Main:

high 1

pause 10

high 2

pause 125

low 2

pause 10

low 1

pause 500

high 3

pause 10

high 4

pause 125

low 4

pause 10

low 3

pause 500

goto main


Carroll

[citfta]

Sorry for the double post

Sorry guys. I don't know why it double posted.


Carroll