Use for the Tesla Switch

[ldissing]

I changed the zener to a 16V last night to get the pulsing to once every second, pulsing 17V from the cap bank to the batteries.
This morning the relay contacts was stuck , but the battery banks voltage sat on 14.2V
So the batteries loved the pulsing but relays will not last as we were told before.
Now I need to get a panel ammeter to test what sort of current is passed with every pulse.
I want to do a easy experiment by discharging the parallel cap bank to the battery and measure the current .
Then I want to charge the caps up in parallel, connect them in series and measure the current pulse when discharging and vice versa to try and determine how Mr. Bedini does it.

Leroy
Is the inverted circuit on the cap pulsars that you talk about the opto , transistor, scr one's that switch the negative?

Vissie,

I'm beginning to believe that the whole point is not to have the grounds connected at all...only for very brief moments in time.

To answer the question asked, YES, the SCR is the main switch on the negative and it is a potential switch in JB's circuits, but it works in conjunction with the opto and transistor in a darlington arrangement.

For what it is worth, if I were doing what you are doing, I'd switch the negative and not the positive.

Leroy

[Matthew Jones]

If the 17V from the solar panel capacitor is fed directly to the cap banks without going through a radiant charger first to get the voltage up, we have to charge the caps in parallel to 17v each and then switch them in series and dump to the battery .About 60V
If we charge them in series first each of the 4 caps will only have a voltage of about 4V and we won’t be able to charge a 12v battery when switched to parallel.
I drew up a diagram using the bipolar switch to try and do this.
I’m not sure if the 3 series transistors will switch on like that.
Please have a look and tell me what you think.
I will test soon to see what the best way will be to discharge into the battery as soon as I have a panel ammeter. The discharge pulse is to fast to see on a dvm.

Vissie
I am not sure why you need to go through all the trouble on the back end near the battery.
This is a dumbed down version of pretty much the same thing. I am just trying to diagram the flow of things first before I choose components. Let me explain

In section 1 you have Tesla Switch set to oscillate at a given rate. The incoming power will supplement the CHARGING capacitors.

In section 2 you 2 loads. Both Radiant oscillators with COILS, one set to create a positive spike the other set to create a negative spike. These are both set to run at alternating times based on which way the Section 1's switch is running. We will only grab the radient spike for the caps just as in a monopole. Notice the Capacitor they run from.

In section 3 you have to capacitor bank initially set to serial while charging.
Based on a Monopole I built that works just like this you can charge 150 to 200 volt in a cap bank with ease. The cap bank in the end would be charges to given point then switched to parallel and make a Direct Dump to the charging battery.

I don't have it all worked out so I was curious about what your planning and why so many switch's on the end that dumps the battery.

Matt

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Hi Bit's

I got it running. Tried a couple of different trafo's that I had laying around.

I can't get any charging on the battery, tried various timing settings.

I'm seeing about 9.2 - 9.3V over C1 when C2 is 13 - 17V. Is this what you see too? (I'm using 6,800uF 50V caps)C2 voltage is a product of how long you run the loop function before you trigger the relay to pulse the batt. I am still tweeking that time interval to see where I get the best results. IMO, if you are able to elevate the voltage on the center tap (without that voltage coming off of the batt itself) you'll see this guy really start to perform. My Caps are 10,000uf @ 35V, but I am not saying bigger is better, just noting a slight difference. I ran this to a seperate batt just for the charging leg for 2 hrs. Beggining volts was 12.16 and after the 2hrs, batt volts is 12.22. After letting it rest all night, the volts are still @12.22. Going back to what I explained on the center tap, I am working to feed that from the caps (higher voltage side) which I hope to create a "stair stepping" effect on the trafo's output / cycle. Additionaly I think I need to find some photoflash type caps which will charge quicker. Adjusting the delay downward on the 2 tranny's for the trafo's primary reduces the load on the batt and improves charging. Sorry for being long winded.

Also tried using a MJL21194 in place of the relay, still no dice.

Anyway, I'll play around some more when I have fitted a better trafo. I also splurged and got myself a nice 5A lab p/s, which will come in real handy.


John K.

@John K.

See comments in red above.

Thanks

Bit's

[nvisser]

Vissie
I am not sure why you need to go through all the trouble on the back end near the battery.
This is a [URL="http://www.matthewcjones.com/power/ISCC/Solar_Charger.jpg"]
I don't have it all worked out so I was curious about what your planning and why so many switch's on the end that dumps the battery.
Matt

I tried to do what JB said. It was to use the bipolar switch.
ie: "You know a light bulb just turned on. What if we could use the Bi- Polar switch in the Tesla Switch then we would know when it was off. One switch for charging a cap the other for the dump."

It completely isolates the source and the battery from the caps.
As I could not see a radiant generator in Jb's video I assumed that the 17v is going straight to the 4 caps and then you have to charge it in parallel.

I like your diagram

[Matthew Jones]

You understand what I am trying to convey right?

You can use a bipolar switch to create the same 2 wave forms on the diagram. I don't know how but I know thats how a bipolar works, so I have been told. It will do the same thing I outlined except across one coil. Giving you the same HIGH potential across the cap bank.

But you don't need to use a switch at all between the bank of caps and the battery.
Just disconnect the cap bank from the charger, switch to parrallel, while at the same time hook up to the battery and dump.

You could have 2 cap banks off the charger. One dumping one charging.
That will allow the top half of the circuit to run continuously.

Its just an idea but its the simplist thing I can think of to correspond with the action of the machine in the video.

Matt

[boguslaw]

Double Pole Double Throw relay,good idea. I feel it may work.!

[nilrehob]

If the 17V from the solar panel capacitor is fed directly to the cap banks without going through a radiant charger first to get the voltage up, we have to charge the caps in parallel to 17v each and then switch them in series and dump to the battery .About 60V
If we charge them in series first each of the 4 caps will only have a voltage of about 4V and we won’t be able to charge a 12v battery when switched to parallel.
I drew up a diagram using the bipolar switch to try and do this.
I’m not sure if the 3 series transistors will switch on like that.
Please have a look and tell me what you think.
I will test soon to see what the best way will be to discharge into the battery as soon as I have a panel ammeter. The discharge pulse is to fast to see on a dvm.

Parallel charge and serial discharge.
Maybe this will work?

/Hob

[nilrehob]

Hi Hob
Follow the red lines . That looks like a dead short to me

Too long a stare makes you blind i guess

I think it only works the other way around,
flip the caps upside-down,
charge in series and discharge in parallel,
which was my initial intention way back.

/Hob

[Schpankme]

flip the caps upside-down,
charge in series and discharge in parallel

Hobs,

Is this statement a mistake "charge in series and discharge in parallel"; did you mean to say - charge the caps in parallel and discharge in series (12v >> 24v)?

- Schpankme

[Matthew Jones]

Hobs,
Is this statement a mistake "charge in series and discharge in parallel"; did you mean to say - charge the caps in parallel and discharge in series (12v >> 24v)?
- Schpankme

No you wanna charge in series and discharge in parallel. That takes the high voltage and turns into onto charge voltage (14 -15 volt) with a serge of amperage.

Matt

[nilrehob]

Hobs,

Is this statement a mistake "charge in series and discharge in parallel"; did you mean to say - charge the caps in parallel and discharge in series (12v >> 24v)?

- Schpankme

No mistake.
You will have less losses if you charge in series and discharge in parallel.
The reason is that the Q value for the caps gets higher when in series.

Charge two capacitors (nilrehob)
YouTube - Charge two capacitors

The opposite can be done to coils,
although i haven't tested it as i have with caps:
PS-coil SP-cap (nilrehob)

/Hob

[nvisser]

Hi Hob
Where did you find this buck/boost Bedini circuit. Does It come from JB?
I think i can see how this circuit of yours work. I had the polarities wrong before

[nilrehob]

Hi Hob
Where did you find this buck/boost Bedini circuit. Does It come from JB?
I think i can see how this circuit of yours work. I had the polarities wrong before

This is the buck-boost converter (also found in the SSG):
Buck–boost converter - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

There are lots of other similar circuits (halfway down the page):
Switched-mode power supply - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

In this article there is the cap serial in parallel out (pointed out for us by lamare way back)
http://www.linear.com/pc/downloadDoc...14,P1258,D4816

The sequential bipolar circuit is by JB really an H-bridge:
H-bridge - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

And here is an interesting article about H-bridge:
H-bridge secrets part 1

And here as well:
Power Smart H-Bridge - BEAM Robotics Wiki

/Hob

[nvisser]

Thank you
That will keep us busy for a while.
Have you tested the above diode ser. to par conversion and do you think it will work with bipolar switches on both sides?

[nilrehob]

Thank you
That will keep us busy for a while.
Have you tested the above diode ser. to par conversion and do you think it will work with bipolar switches on both sides?

Not quite sure which one you mean,
but i have only had time to test this on caps as shown in my video,
and the coil+cap is currently only tested in the falstad simulator.

/Hob