Use for the Tesla Switch

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Where did we all go....?

Anyway..
I have been running my switch with all the components planned except the generator. So far.
I have 6 115 amp hour deep cycle's. 3 on each side to make a 24 volt potential. They are just off the shelf. I have not even put a charge in them.
The motor I have been running with a mechanical load to force it to pull 15 amps at 24 volt.
I have made runs on the setup. First was about an hour I didn't record it but it was good. The second was an hour, I did not loose anything after a 3 hour rest of the batteries.

Today I ran 8 hours and rested 4. NO LOSS.

Left Side
Start
A. 12.71
B. 12.68
C. 12.72
Finish after rest
A. 12.71
B. 12.69
C. 12.72

Right Side
Start.
C. 12.78
D. 12.78
E. 12.64

Finish
C. 12.78
D. 12.79
E. 12.62

The batteries do not climb above about 12.90 at any given time. I was running 25 seconds each way.
I am going to do another through the night for a total of 24 hours and see if any consumption shows up.

At this rate I do not need to add charge to the batteries, but even if the totals were to start to fall off, after eight hours the amount of supplement power needed to maintain these batteries charge is easy to come by.
I am going to get the generator mounted up. I want to max the batteries out.
Then start pulling other loads in addition. An inverter or some other batteries for charging.

I have also started to purchase all the parts I need to build a version with the Solid State Relays.

If anybody is interested in helping, I need a PCB designed and few bugs worked out. PM me with reference. Payed or Bartered Job.

Cheers
Matt

Nice job Matt

Bit's

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Sorry guys, I've been away from test bench due to "professional development" Waiting for 40A SS relays and slowly populating Pulsinator board (according to Bit's schem. ). I need to read back all pages I have missed and catch up since you've made some interesting discoveries when I was absent This is great place


Vtech

Vtech, welcome back my friend.

Bit's

[John_K]

Update

Hi Folks,

I haven't posted for a while but I've still been messing around on the bench.

I've tried a few different ideas, but nothing that will have the MIB chasing after me so far

My latest setup was to try and run a 6-transistor SS SG with inverted cap pulser from the 24V side whilst dumping the the cap bank into the 12V side, then switching.

This was done by using a couple of relays to switch the input and output sides of the SS SG Cap Pulser. Alas, no OU but I had to try it anyways.

I also revisited using the SS SG Cap Pulser as the load in the TS. This gave me better results than the hybrid relay setup, by using the cap bank to dump into a 5th battery. Even if I rotated the charged 5th battery with the weakest out of the 4 TS batteries I still wasn't over the top.

I'm going to take a break from the TS for a while until I come up with some other ideas, but right now just my 6-transistor SS SG with inverted cap pulser is giving me almost 1:1 charging when driven off 24V into a parallel 12V bank. I'm going to fiddle with this setup for a while as well as conditioning some batteries.

Until then, I plan on re-watching DVD's and reading books until some ideas pop into my head. I found a great Tesla document the other day - "The strange life of Nikola Tesla" which I need to digest as well as some EFTV DVDs. Tom Bearden makes it sound so simple - short HV impulses with no closed loops.


John K.

[genessc]

Inquorate.

Hi Inquorate,

I checked out the vid you referenced, but I couldn't really follow what it was you were doing. The schematic on that vid looked sorta like a tesla switch but with the transistor and a coil on the emitter side of it in the path from the high + to the Low + of the battery acting as the parallel stack in your setup.

I've still been working at the replica of the bedini solar charger thing. I still can't get the higher output amps noted over the input amps. I have some 39000uF 35volt caps coming that are about the last thing I can think to try on that before I convert my controller to do the tesla switch switching. Maybe next week I'll get to that. It seems that from some exchanges with Stevan that the output amps pulse is over before the meter needle ever climbs as high as it shows... almost like its the inertia of the pulse pushing the needle up that high as opposed to the actual amp pulse discharge. I'm just speculating as I'm running out of ideas as to how that is being achieved. He is charging in parallel and discharging in series. I'm using the same timing of on for .485seconds and off for .005seconds and on for another .485seconds and off for .005seconds and then the whole cycle repeats. I'm using 1farad 20vdc rated audio caps for cars as my two caps that are being filled and then discharged. I get roughly a 2:1 amp inpututput. Input maxes at 3amps, output maxes at 2amps. (little higher than 2:1 currently.)

Sounds like Matts had some decent runs with his setup of the TS. I don't have any batteries that big... ah well... Will update this thread again when I have something useful to report...

Gene

[blackchisel97]

Schottky

Vtech, welcome back my friend.

Bit's

Thanks Bit's
Just a question regarding Schottky diodes in your Pulsinator; What voltage they should be rated to be safe? I have found some 20/30A 90V - S20SC9M @ $1.75 ea. if I'll get 10 - 15. They're common cathode. Those in your schem. aren't expensive but shipping from DigiK will cost $20. Beside them I have pretty much everything or on its way.


V

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Thanks Bit's
Just a question regarding Schottky diodes in your Pulsinator; What voltage they should be rated to be safe? I have found some 20/30A 90V - S20SC9M @ $1.75 ea. if I'll get 10 - 15. They're common cathode. Those in your schem. aren't expensive but shipping from DigiK will cost $20. Beside them I have pretty much everything or on its way.


V

Vtech, those should work just fine. Good to hear from you.

Thanks
Bit's

[blackchisel97]

Vtech, those should work just fine. Good to hear from you.

Thanks
Bit's

Thanks Bit's Just ordered them. Hope to get back to TS soon.


V

[nvisser]

Welcome back Vtech. You should go to the nearest PC repair shop and ask for old PC power supplies. They got nice shottkey diodes on the outputs.

Gene. You are correct. The cap bank pulse output to the battery is very quick and the panel meter does not show it properly. I used a cheap Suzuki bike plus minus 30A ammeter. It respond very quickly and will show you what happens on the output. You will be surprised!!

[blackchisel97]

Welcome back Vtech. You should go to the nearest PC repair shop and ask for old PC power supplies. They got nice shottkey diodes on the outputs.

Gene. You are correct. The cap bank pulse output to the battery is very quick and the panel meter does not show it properly. I used a cheap Suzuki bike plus minus 30A ammeter. It respond very quickly and will show you what happens on the output. You will be surprised!!

Hello Vissie I did check local repair shops a few times in the past few weeks and got 1 (one) Found another on the curb, salvaged two diodes. I found a guy in Quebec who has 90 of them (S20SC9M) at $1.45 plus $3 shipping for 15. They're common cathode, 90V 20A. Should arrive next week. Your suggestion with + - ammeter is right on. I used similar and it gives a good idea what's going on.


V

[genessc]

Hi Nvisser,

That makes me wonder if we're just not using the right type of ammeter. I suspect the ammeter you're using which has a range of -30-0-30 amps is made to sense en masse the flux so that it reacts accordingly.

Does this seem to then indicate that depending on what ammeter we buy, we get good results or bad results? How then do we know whats really there?

In theory if you just see the needle fly on the suzuki ammeter you should see something similar on a panel ammeter thats a 0-30amp DC meter eh?

Does the meter have a datasheet for it?

I've only tried a couple 0-5amp DC analog ammeters that look just like the ones Bedini had on his solar charger vid... maybe I should be using 0-10amps or 0-15amps as perhaps the swing of the needle has nothing to do with what is really being pushed down the conductor at a much higher di/dt than it can register properly?

Its curious with one meter you don't see what you want, you trade in some other ammeter and now you see what you want and seem satisfied... just by changing the meter and not the circuit... I sorta doubt one of the meters is being honest... The meters must have different response characteristics and probably have some limit to how fast they can respond depending on what their guts look like inside.

Regards,
Gene

Welcome back Vtech. You should go to the nearest PC repair shop and ask for old PC power supplies. They got nice shottkey diodes on the outputs.

Gene. You are correct. The cap bank pulse output to the battery is very quick and the panel meter does not show it properly. I used a cheap Suzuki bike plus minus 30A ammeter. It respond very quickly and will show you what happens on the output. You will be surprised!!

[Dupe]

Parallel/series charging

I am currently experimenting with two 18000uf caps charged in parallel at 12 volts and relay switched two series and dumped to battery (12 volt gell cell)
I have found that the switching frequency is very_ very critical. I used an old 12 volt double pole relay with hefty 10 amp contacts and set my pulse generator to drive the set up at 15% mark space at around 10Hz...12Hz. This cell reached just under 12 volts after about 4 hours charge. I'm experimenting also on other ideas using BEMF. It seems that frequency play's an importatnt part here to gain reasonable results. Dupe

[sucahyo]

Ben's gift inspire me this. This design require two relay with 4 parallel contact such as FRM3-4B5. It is based from Ronald Brandt version in "report on 4 battery switch".



All the switch (S1 to S6) should closed/gated/turned on when the appropriate relay turned on.
Relay 1 control S1, S3 and S6. Relay 2 control S2, S4 and S5. Relay is powered by source battery.

To comform to C20 charging/discharging, resistor is put in the negative part, maybe a coil would be better.

resistor value is = battery voltage * 20 / battery capacity

example = 24V * 20 / 7A
example = 68.5 ohm

If longer delay time is needed, capacitor can be added in parallel with the relay coil. Power consumption will depend on relay power consumption.

Edit: capacitor should not be added to the second relay because it will produce all relay on condition, my mistakes.

[StevanC]

Im back

Hi,
JohnK, stonewater, Lero, Genessc JangYD and other respected fellow researchers.

It's been quite a while.
To avoid being dull or boring, pick some questions, watch the vids on YT:
cest73
And i will follow up.
I do have a "kind of" TS PV Amp
1. It's unofficial
2. It's officially unsupported
3. my work is GPL, but I hereby ask JB's permission before going public.
4. private copies are permissible under non disclosure conditions only (free of charge)

Schematics I used are my own brainfart, but are strongly biased with what JB thought us here.

No guarantee, not fitness for particular application, (GPL "blah, blah"...)
Use at own risk, don't dare blame me etc...

anyone still reading?

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Hi,
JohnK, stonewater, Lero, Genessc JangYD and other respected fellow researchers.

It's been quite a while.
To avoid being dull or boring, pick some questions, watch the vids on YT:
cest73
And i will follow up.
I do have a "kind of" TS PV Amp
1. It's unofficial
2. It's officially unsupported
3. my work is GPL, but I hereby ask JB's permission before going public.
4. private copies are permissible under non disclosure conditions only (free of charge)

Schematics I used are my own brainfart, but are strongly biased with what JB thought us here.

No guarantee, not fitness for particular application, (GPL "blah, blah"...)
Use at own risk, don't dare blame me etc...

anyone still reading?

Outstanding StevenC. Are the main Caps 4700uf's

Just a great job. Good work.

Bit's

[StevanC]

Outstanding StevenC. Are the main Caps 4700uf's

Just a great job. Good work.

Bit's

Hi Bit's
Each and every one is 10'000 uF @20V (=cheap) or 50V (initial testing)
So it's
80'000uF each bank
40'000uF @40V in series (to battery)
160'000uF @20V in parallel (from PV or PSU)

AND
they fill up to 18V not higher (ever)
And they dump to 55% "SoC" of the receiving battery, not lower (about 8V) (ever)

AND
usually they swing 10...12V back and forth (yep, 2V only)


Stevan C.