Use for the Tesla Switch

[vallentin]

TS build proposal

Hi folks.
Here's what I'm going to try (when my picaxe arrives).
Any comments or test results will be highly appreciated.
Forget about the load.
The main purpose of ANY TS build is to charge a decent bank of batteries and run your house with it.
So, enough with this childs-play. Tiny bulbs and toys and God knows what else.
You can have all the loads you need AFTER you charge your battery bank. Right?

Valentin

[nvisser]

Wow. Phase Control SCR 250 Amperes Average 1600 Volts
I hope you will not fry them.
Will the thyristor switch off by itself without a load?
I know that is like the diagram JB post, but I still see a short over bat 1, d5, d7, d6, d4 and THY1.
The same for the other batteries especially if you don't run a load.
But I can be wrong. Please proof me wrong as most of us gave up as the support that started most of us on this project is not there anymore.
Please keep us updated.

[Matthew Jones]

I see the Short as well. Although I ran switch once as described by Mr John. I can't remember what thread had that same schematic. But it didn't do very well and it got real hot.

If what you want is a house power supply first you gotta have the batteries.
If you don't wanna discharge the batteries above the C20 rate (Or c10 they be) then you'll need alot of them.

A 220 volt ac 200 amp service require quite few batteries. Not that you'll need all 200 amps at 1 time but you will need a bit for the Air conditioner, water heater, cooking range.

If the TS system is say 12 volt (Inverters are cheapest) you'll need somewhere in the 20000 amp hour range for a C10 or a 10000 amp hours for a C20. And these numbers are just an off the head estimate. I think the real numbers are bit higher, when you put a calculator it.

So you get past the batteries.
The switching is not hard to come by. Even if your circiut for some reason doesn't work (And from looking at it I would say build a small one first , Sorry) your hope is not lost. Hong Fa has good large power relays that are controlled with real low power. So does Crydom and you can find them pretty easy on DigiKey. All of them can be parralled to increase amperage ratings. A little IC chip and your in business with a switch.

After that if you want to you've got several options...
You can power an inverter (pure sine) 5000 - 10000 watt, for power to the home. When the batteries finally start getting low you can use that inverter and a large battery charger (30 - 50 amp or better) and the and back feed power to the CHARGING bank.
Or you can continually back charge with the same setup and just consume the rest of the power. But there will be some ratio's you have to deal with at that point. How much to replace to how much consumed.
Of course you can back charge with an outside power source like solar or even the grid. This will significantly drop your grid consumption at ratio's like 1 to 12, 1 to 10.

But the biggest kicker for whole house power supply is the Money. Of course the size of the house matters but there are only 100 amp services, 200 amp services ect.... So you gotta make the decision how big you need it.

I have for a little while now been test a rather big system. IT is working. I am not getting into to many details but I can say it is NOT big enough for whole house. And when I am sure it is complety functional and and does what I claim I will publish it for everybody. It will scale well and be a good stepping stone for a small power supply.

So anyway I just wanted to give you little insight into what a whole house power supply means. Its easy to say I am going to build one but........
Anything I can do for you if your funded enough to try you let me know.
Cheers
Matt

[vallentin]

Wow. Phase Control SCR 250 Amperes Average 1600 Volts
I hope you will not fry them.

I hope that too. It's a 300A. As an alternative, take a look at SKT 240. And yes. I want to go big. Enogh playing with toys.

Will the thyristor switch off by itself without a load?

Dunno'. I can't tel until I try the setup JB gave us (based on trannies).

I know that is like the diagram JB post, but I still see a short over bat 1, d5, d7, d6, d4 and THY1.

It's the same schematic, Vissie. How come you did not see these errors before? On JB diagrams? To me it looks like a closed loop. And I will try it as is. To see what really happen.

The same for the other batteries especially if you don't run a load.
But I can be wrong.

I said I don't want any load. Hopefuly the charging batteries will behave as a load and the SCR will shut off in time. I want to follow the SCR path just to get rid of the voltage drops on the trannies. The man said that you can do everything with just two devices. SCR's or transistors.

Please proof me wrong as most of us gave up as the support that started most of us on this project is not there anymore.
Please keep us updated.

Well, all I can see is that support and everything else has completely gone underground. JB as usually, after he set small a fire, disappears.
How do they call it? Proprietary information...
Ok, then!
What else can we do now? Try crazy ideas? Yes! Why not. This is all we are left to play with. Believe me, I will try!
Take care.
Valentin

[vallentin]

I see the Short as well. Although I ran switch once as described by Mr John. I can't remember what thread had that same schematic. But it didn't do very well and it got real hot.

If what you want is a house power supply first you gotta have the batteries.
If you don't wanna discharge the batteries above the C20 rate (Or c10 they be) then you'll need alot of them.

A 220 volt ac 200 amp service require quite few batteries. Not that you'll need all 200 amps at 1 time but you will need a bit for the Air conditioner, water heater, cooking range.

If the TS system is say 12 volt (Inverters are cheapest) you'll need somewhere in the 20000 amp hour range for a C10 or a 10000 amp hours for a C20. And these numbers are just an off the head estimate. I think the real numbers are bit higher, when you put a calculator it.

So you get past the batteries.
The switching is not hard to come by. Even if your circiut for some reason doesn't work (And from looking at it I would say build a small one first , Sorry) your hope is not lost. Hong Fa has good large power relays that are controlled with real low power. So does Crydom and you can find them pretty easy on DigiKey. All of them can be parralled to increase amperage ratings. A little IC chip and your in business with a switch.

After that if you want to you've got several options...
You can power an inverter (pure sine) 5000 - 10000 watt, for power to the home. When the batteries finally start getting low you can use that inverter and a large battery charger (30 - 50 amp or better) and the and back feed power to the CHARGING bank.
Or you can continually back charge with the same setup and just consume the rest of the power. But there will be some ratio's you have to deal with at that point. How much to replace to how much consumed.
Of course you can back charge with an outside power source like solar or even the grid. This will significantly drop your grid consumption at ratio's like 1 to 12, 1 to 10.

But the biggest kicker for whole house power supply is the Money. Of course the size of the house matters but there are only 100 amp services, 200 amp services ect.... So you gotta make the decision how big you need it.

I have for a little while now been test a rather big system. IT is working. I am not getting into to many details but I can say it is NOT big enough for whole house. And when I am sure it is complety functional and and does what I claim I will publish it for everybody. It will scale well and be a good stepping stone for a small power supply.

So anyway I just wanted to give you little insight into what a whole house power supply means. Its easy to say I am going to build one but........
Anything I can do for you if your funded enough to try you let me know.
Cheers
Matt

Thank you Matt. I am aware of everything you just said. Including the short. Could be a misleading from JB?
I do have the inverters. 4 of them. 1400W each. And 2 inverters at 500W. Enough for my bachelor needs. I'm not picky...
All is left is buy the 6V/300A batteries once I can charge them the way I want.
You made me curious about your setup!
Valentin

[Matthew Jones]

The TS is a viable source of power. It produces free energy (OR conserves the energy you have). But after 21 setups I have found its not as simple as it looks. LOL
It takes alot patience.

Matt

[vallentin]

The TS is a viable source of power. It produces free energy (OR conserves the energy you have). But after 21 setups I have found its not as simple as it looks. LOL
It takes alot patience.

Matt

Man, I'm a Virgo. I have all the patience in the world.
Hopefully, your 22 setup will pay for your patience.

[nvisser]

It's the same schematic, Vissie. How come you did not see these errors before? On JB diagrams? To me it looks like a closed loop. And I will try it as is. To see what really happen.

It did mention it numerous times and even post a diagram about it.
The first time when I ask why someone left out the parallel transistors he said that he did not post a diagram yet but soon after he posted it in the beginning of December last year.
One morning When JB was online and active I ask him about it ,he said to use large amp diodes and a huge 12v bulb. That was the only response I got out of him. He never explained the diagram.
I built it with small diodes and blew all components into pieces!! So did Leroy and others
Then Bits introduced the two top transistors back into the circuit. On the negative side you can get away with not blowing diodes as you use loads in the circuit . But still the load get driven by only one battery for the duration of the one series pulse.
If you get that circuit right you will surely be the first one. We are not even sure if JB built that version .We only saw the photo of the full 6 transistor switch.
I would suggest you take Matt up on his offer for help and safe yourself some trouble

[vallentin]

We are not even sure if JB built that version .

I believe that he didn't, but I saw SCR's on one of his mini-solar charger pictures.

I would suggest you take Matt up on his offer for help and safe yourself some trouble

Thank you, I will.
So if I build it this way will be safer? (I left the opto's ant other stuff out for simplicity.) Sorry for the lamer questions. This is my first time working with SCR's this way. Other than lighting a disco...

[StevanC]

I believe that he didn't, but I saw SCR's on one of his mini-solar charger pictures.

Thank you, I will.
So if I build it this way will be safer? (I left the opto's ant other stuff out for simplicity.) Sorry for the lamer questions. This is my first time working with SCR's this way. Other than lighting a disco...

Sorry to be kind of show stopper here
(better early than late though ...)

Besides a SCR being a 4 layer device (MOSFET's cousin) and being rated to humongous ratings ("bang for buck") I could hardly see why use the two SCRs in the above schematic:
The current passing each "circle" of the "overpotentialized half" of the total TS going never the less over the MJL (=can't go elsewhere ).
This parctically makes the MJL the stiff thorat, right?

Or am I missing on something here?
And besides that, we have a ~4V across the SCR + 0.4 on each diode (Schottky, right?) makes it 0.8 (best case) with each MJL giving its own 4V:
4+(4 x 2)+(0.4 x 2) = 12.8V of dissipation (times amperes =~16A) of *loss*, yes we are going "over the counter", but we haphazardly get but all burned out IMHO.

I recommend going to either all MJL ("mono culture") or using only SCR and diodes?

= :2c:
Stevan C.

[nvisser]

I do not know if the scr's will work here. Never tried it. JB introduced it into the scalar charger where you switch two caps that are charged up to 12v,in series. As soon as the caps are discharged into the battery the scr will switch off as the voltage on both sides drop to the same value. When using batteries , they keep on supplying and the voltage does not drop as with caps.
I think Leroy used it like this,. Maybe he can shed some light on it when he comes back again.
I still got my setup but I am afraid to try it as It is a full 6 transistor switch and I do not want to blow my MLJ's which Bits had to sent me from the USA.

[Matthew Jones]

I don't see any reason to have an SCR at all. Especially inlight of those numbers Stevan put up.

You can over complicate the process. Its real simple to set one up, there is no need to do anything other than just a simple switch.

Matt

[vallentin]

I don't see any reason to have an SCR at all. Especially inlight of those numbers Stevan put up.

You can over complicate the process. Its real simple to set one up, there is no need to do anything other than just a simple switch.

Matt

Thank you all for your support, advices and ideas.
I will do it the way it has to be: (below).
I ordered the MJL's and until my picaxe arrives, I'll stick to the SG3524.
Best wishes.
Valentin

P.S.
I used Target 3001 (free) for software, press & peel paper, laser printer, good iron, ferric chloride and fine grade sandpaper for the PCB.

[nvisser]

Don't you think you should make provision for a load like a 2 x 12v primary transformer between T3 and T6 just for test purposes?

[Matthew Jones]

Thank you all for your support, advices and ideas.
I will do it the way it has to be: (below).
I ordered the MJL's and until my picaxe arrives, I'll stick to the SG3524.
Best wishes.
Valentin

P.S.
I used Target 3001 (free) for software, press & peel paper, laser printer, good iron, ferric chloride and fine grade sandpaper for the PCB.

You got another problem in there. You have to prewire to understand but you are not going to be able to fire an NPN transistor they way you have the opto's hooked up. I am talking about T3 and T6. The rest look like they may work out.
You will have to pull power from the positive side of the battery to fire a NPN.

If you just Mock up every transistor position with test leads you'll see what I am talking about. You may check your others as well just to make sure your schematic is right before you order it.

nvisser right. You'll wanna load between T3 and T6. With a direct connect you will just be burning batteries.

You may wanna go way back and review Byte's schematic for the TS. Your kind rebuilding the wheel.

Cheers
Matt.