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I think you just use somthing like If (IN1 = 1) then *Action*
The IN command open's the pin up to receive. The biggest thing you have to run a line to ground at at say 1k ohm resistance. Then use like 500 ohm to the pin. A voltage divider.
The pin comes on at 1 volt. So if you pumping it with 12 volt per say you have to do a voltage divider to knock the voltage down to 1 volt. I don't think the pin can handle over 3 volt on an input (But that in your pic docs for your particular version). The closer you get to 1 volt the better, because it take less time to turn it off.
Symbol SensePin = Pin1 ;trigger pin
Main:
do
loop until Pin1 = 1 ; loop until magnetic sensor or reed switch closes
pulsout 6, 200
goto Main
Might need to tweek duration.
Jeff
Matt, Thanks for the ideas and schematic. I considered car starter relays but didn't think they would be able to keep up at the speed suggested in Patrick Kelly's info that I'm trying to follow. Even at 100 Hz (low end of the range) that would be several thousand times per minute opening and closing.
I noticed in the schematic you referenced (ISCC) that there seems to be only 2 diodes instead of the 4 I thought it needed (not counting the FWBR).
BTW I think I posted this info before here that Kelly had changed the circuit based on some new info and that what appears to be backwards for the diodes is actually correct. See the diagram below as this is the new corrected one. Have you tried something similar to this configuration? This newly corrected one was just mentioned by Kelly in the last couple weeks on a yahoo group I follow and is in his latest book revision or in Chapter 5.
Note upon taking another look at this in his book I am now questioning as to which one is correct because of what I believe is simply a mistake he made in referencing 'above' when I think he meant 'below'. The new diagram in Chapter 5 is below and one I had not seen until recently. I'll check into this and post here unless someone else knows about this.
That schematic won't work, unless you can beat the switching rate of the diode and manage to get some power out of it. You would have to have some real high voltage.
<snip<
Keep hunting though, we'll figure it out one day.
Cheers
Matt
Thanks Matt, SeaMonkey and everyone for the input on this. I think I have some IMPORTANT NEWS (sorry for the dramatics but I didn't want anyone to miss this) after an email to Patrick Kelly (author of the 2200 page Practical Guide to Free Energy Devices - I'm sure everyone here knows PK). The diagram I posted on page 99 here IS CORRECT. Yes the diodes appear to be backwards. And that is why for years Patrick Kelly had it backwards in his book (until a very recent revision). When he first put the diagram in his book he was told by someone the diodes were backwards so he turned them around. But very recently he found out they needed to be 'backwards' at least by traditional EE practice as this was no ordinary circuit.
His latest revision in Chapter 5 shows 2 diagrams and both are now correct. He also sent me the original sketch he got of the Electrodyne Corp. version of the Tesla switch on which he based his diagram and it is also correct. It was only wrong in his books until recently because of listening to someone else's advice about the diode direction. So all the diagrams I will post below are correct! My confusion on his latest revision was in thinking the two circuits in his revision were different and that the first one was just like the old one. It was not. He had switched the diode direction in the old one without changing anything else so I didn't bother to compare them side by side and thought it was just like the old one. His reply below:
"You had me worried there for a minute. I have checked and am happy to say that the diagram is not the one which I mistakenly put out for years. The only difference is the direction of the diodes and so the diagram looks very much like the previous one.
The wrong one shows the diodes orientated so that they would feed conventional current into each battery. That is, the arrow points to the plus of the battery.
What it should actually show is the diodes blocking conventional flow and allowing the non-conventional energy flow go to the battery. The attached diagram is the original from which I was working."
BTW I believe the middle diagram above was just added for clarity in showing the switching arrangement using the mechanical switch as shown below. The red switches in the diagram below would be hooked to the red switches in the middle diagram above and the blue ones to the blue above.
Thanks Matt I look forward to any results. While I got the 1N1183's to try this with it may be a while before I get the chance to put it all together as I'm still in a big home building project. My biggest concern now is how to duplicate the mechanical switching they used. I really want to try it with the rotary mechanical switch and if that works than I would look at trying some solid state switches. I do have some ideas for the rotary switch but need time to put one together. Best of luck with your setup
There is no important work, there are only a series of moments to demonstrate your mastery and impeccability. Quote from Almine
Are you going to try the reversed diode circuit with mechanical switches? I saw a post about the change in the diodes a couple of weeks ago and tried it with transistor switching and could not get anything out of it. It wouldn't even lite an LED. It also didn't charge the batteries. I don't have time right now with rebuilding a house to try and build a set of mechanical switches so I dropped the idea for now. I know you have had good luck in the past with mechanical switches so that is why I asked. Let us know what you find.
I am currently trying out one of the circuits posted by StevenC. A few posts back he posted six circuits for TeslaSwitch PVAmp topology. The bottom right circuit he calls the BJT's booster circuit. I tried it as drawn with MJL21194 transistors. It pretty much just sat there and actually didn't run down the two batteries I was using for my power source hardly at all. It also wasn't charging the charge batteries either. Then I realized it was pulsing power back to the run batteries. I decided to modify it by going to some relays for my switches and adding a diode between the input cap positive and the rest of the circuit. Now I am getting very good charging. Of course now the run batteries are dropping in voltage. I am adjusting my timing to see if I can get better charging with less load on the run batteries. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.
Later, Carroll
Just because someone disagrees with you does NOT make them your enemy. We can disagree without attacking someone.
I got some fast mechanical relays that I am going to try first. If they show promise I'll dig out the mechanical one I have that I built based on those plans and see what it will do. I've got all the parts so I might as well.
I am really not expecting much but at least we should disprove it before judging it.
allowing the non-conventional energy flow go to the battery.."
This is probably what they call Disinformation.
Now who will you believe. John Bedini's diagrams on this thread or P. O Kelly that cannot even get a 555 circuit correct. Go look at the Dave Lawton 555 circuits if you don't believe me.
If you get the Tesla switch circuit to work like that I will eat my Tesla switch pc board with all it's transistors and all the batteries to!!
And the nuts and bolts and wires.
If the wrong switch on top gets switched the top batteries will charge like hell.
24V to only one 12v battery.
Is it possible that you are switching the wrong switch?
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