Use for the Tesla Switch

[hherby]

The math

Its just rough drawing. I used a 3 kva transformer body as you noted. You can buy one here.
This transformer is easy to break down and reconfigure.

I bought a 10 lbs spool of 14 AWG and used about 5 lbs total. I put alot more on it than was required according to the math. It says to use 3 strands of #6 square wire. 2 strands at 22ft 1 strand at 28ft.
I used 14 because of cost. So I went with what you noted. BUT!!! your gonna have to pack the spool with wood on the interior and come up with some kinda way to compress the wire as you go along. If you don't pack that wire in your gonna get alot of heat and waste energy. Air gaps in the wire cause capacitance that also causes over saturation.
Just read up on transformer construction before you put it together.

You'll need switch's that can handle alot of amperage, so don't start out small or you'll just have alot of fires.

If you really going to build one and you need some help ASK!! I'll try to help.

Matt

Hi Matt,
Could I trouble you for a link or reference to the math that told you to use 3 strands of #6 square wire, 2 strands at 22ft and 1 strand at 28ft?


Thanks
Alex

[John_K]

Hey Matt,

What do you think Brandt meant by "batteries would not balance"? John B spoke of that many times. Do you think it means that all 4 batts need to be at the same voltage (impedance) to run properly?


John K.

The only problem is every battery is different. And I am not sure why. Some batteries allow a large current flow (20 amp pulses) up to about 13.5 volt on the low side. Several Batts do not though. They only allow around a 10 amp flow at about 13.00v.
I keep running them through.
I am going to start running a Parallax Propeller in the system soon. It has 8 processors and is capable of alot more operations at the same time. I just learned how to use an ADC.
So I am working on some kinda means to track everything dynamically and log it. After that I'll figure out something.

That article On Brandt continues to go through my head. He said the newer batteries would not balance and it effected his overall runtime in the Car or Truck or whatever he was running.
Now that I have the ability to come up with a significant power output, I think that 800 lbs of good lead I have managed to save up is going to get put to use soon.

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

Hi Matt,
Could I trouble you for a link or reference to the math that told you to use 3 strands of #6 square wire, 2 strands at 22ft and 1 strand at 28ft?
Thanks
Alex

Look I read for about 2 months. I started here though Power Transformer & Inductor- Design Principles, Calculation, Software .
I got some books. I used some web based calculators, and so forth. Several of them led me to that conclusion.

But if your looking for a quik answer tell me what your trying to do (Watt output, Volts and amps and load size, battery size) and I can tell ya pretty quikly what to build.

Hey Matt,
What do you think Brandt meant by "batteries would not balance"? John B spoke of that many times. Do you think it means that all 4 batts need to be at the same voltage (impedance) to run properly?

John K.

I think hand made batteries, which most were up till about 1972, had tighter tolerances. The plates were cast (Not rolled and pressed, IE cooky cutter), the lead was higher quality (radiation shielding 98% pure lead, 2% gold silver and copper) and the charge discharge sequence was uniform. Probably done with pure DC generators and not rectified AC (which may pulse at 60hz), with lower amperage. Today they take the whole lot of plates and run them in a bath that charges them and discharges them, then they put the plates in a case and add fluid and give them a final charge.

The whole process does not come off as a "Craftsmen" type assembly. Where as hand made with strict controls to me seems like the better bet.
Everything in the battery being personally inspected. Charged in its case with fluids all balanced out the same in each cell.

You follow me. A production line stuff is not the same. And were not even talking about spacers and putty and all the other crap they use today.

It my hope to try this soon. The batteries will be as perfect inside as I can get them. They also will only be charged and discharged at the same frequency they will run on the Tesla Switch, if that will work for building them up. I don't know yet, but thats what I am going to try.

Sum it all up I think they do alot to avoid the quality production so they can engineer failure at a certain rate. Thats the route of it anyway.

Cheers
Matt

[John_K]

I think hand made batteries, which most were up till about 1972, had tighter tolerances. The plates were cast (Not rolled and pressed, IE cooky cutter), the lead was higher quality (radiation shielding 98% pure lead, 2% gold silver and copper) and the charge discharge sequence was uniform. Probably done with pure DC generators and not rectified AC (which may pulse at 60hz), with lower amperage. Today they take the whole lot of plates and run them in a bath that charges them and discharges them, then they put the plates in a case and add fluid and give them a final charge.

The whole process does not come off as a "Craftsmen" type assembly. Where as hand made with strict controls to me seems like the better bet.
Everything in the battery being personally inspected. Charged in its case with fluids all balanced out the same in each cell.

You follow me. A production line stuff is not the same. And were not even talking about spacers and putty and all the other crap they use today.

It my hope to try this soon. The batteries will be as perfect inside as I can get them. They also will only be charged and discharged at the same frequency they will run on the Tesla Switch, if that will work for building them up. I don't know yet, but thats what I am going to try.

Sum it all up I think they do alot to avoid the quality production so they can engineer failure at a certain rate. Thats the route of it anyway.

Cheers
Matt

Thanks Matt,

I agree. Not just batteries, but most things made today are just junk - designed so the consumer has to keep forking over money for "stuff".

I'm attempting to balance the batts for my TS with one of the Renaissance Rejuvenators to equalize all of the cells. So charging all 4 batts in parallel at the same time. Then I give them a good workout with the TS.

These batts have been used for several Bedini-ish projects over the years and some are really good, some not so good. (My fault, not JB's designs)

The batts are getting better each cycle and I'm getting longer load times. IMO, the results will not be instantaneous. The batts seem to be conditioning to TS type charging.


John K.

[Matthew Jones]

Ya I am doing to the same thing. I got a charger going together with about 20 lbs of copper in it. I am going to plug it in and start conditioning my batteries. Its the biggest one I have ever built. It should help.

I am real interested in the Alum conversion. Chuck H said that it worked real good. I was most curious if new batteries could be made with it. I'll probably have to try. I asked if it was possible but they are pretty busy so no answer as of yet.

We'll get it all figured out here soon, I can feel it coming.

Matt

[nvisser]

Just a thought.
Has anybody tried this product in their batteries?
VX-6 Battery Additive.
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...-additive.html

http://www.jcwhitney.com/motorcycle-...wx?filterid=j1

It sounds like this stuff is real good for old batteries.
Some guy on EVGRAY reported this:
You might consider adding VX-6 to your wife's battery. The car will always
start. Even after leaving the headlights on and draining the battery. Just turn
the lights out and wait a few minutes, it will start.

[Matthew Jones]

VX-6 is a Cadmium additive.

I'll pass. Cadmium is BAD!!! Heck you probably could go to the dollar store and by some Chinese metal toys crush them up and add them to the battery. LOL


Matt

[ReggieGM3]

Matthew,
I was thinking the same as you. However, I have over 1,000 lbs of lead in the batteries on my racks. So, what's the harm of a quart/liter of cadmium solution?
We recycle the bateries when they are useless anyway.
I think 90 percent of a lead acid battery is re-used when they are re-manufactured.
Just a thought.
Ron

[Turion]

All those willing to pay for a video from Matt of how to put this thing together step by step, raise your hands. (Mine is already up!) As we learn more and more, we need to carefully document more and more and share it so that we never lose what has been discovered, as has happened sooooooo many times in the past! Getting Matt to spend the time to document his process is worth way more than the few bucks he would charge. I have spent MORE just on magnets for all my different builds! LOL

[Aaron]

new batts without solution added yet

I am real interested in the Alum conversion. Chuck H said that it worked real good. I was most curious if new batteries could be made with it.

Matt,

You can actually buy battery "blanks" - not sure what they're really called
but they are new batteries except the sulfuric acid and water mix hasn't
been added yet so you can add alum/water from the start.

[Aaron]

vx6

Just a thought.
Has anybody tried this product in their batteries?
VX-6 Battery Additive.

That is one of the best battery additives on the market.

I first used it almost 22 years ago - ordered it from JC Whitney.

There are multiple names for it - Charge It, etc... all the same pink
cadmium sulfate solution.

It helps prevent sulfation. I haven't used it in close to 10 years because
I don't need it but it did as claimed.

[Matthew Jones]

Matt,

You can actually buy battery "blanks" - not sure what they're really called
but they are new batteries except the sulfuric acid and water mix hasn't
been added yet so you can add alum/water from the start.

Ya most of your motorcycle/atv batteries come that way. I haven't seen any big batteries though

I was just wondering if you could use just alum to create the crystals on the plates. I don't have to buy anything I got some big glass tanks and several ton of lead ready cast. If I could get away from using Acid at all I would love it. Seems every time I mess with it I loose a Tshirt or a pair pants. LOL

If anybody out there gets the chance to ask the man directly I sure would be grateful for an answer.

Cheers
Matt

[Turion]

Batteries Without Acid

Matt,
I know from personal experience that many large retailers (Sears, Walmart) USED to have their batteries shipped without acid for safety and weight reasons. Don't know if that is still the case. I am way older now!

Also, here's a link to a company that might hook you up:
6N11-2D Wet Battery without Acid: BatteryMart.com

[Matthew Jones]

I am not trying to buy batteries. I want to build them.


Matt

[hherby]

Matt,

Thanks for the link. This is off topic for this tread but what I am actually trying to do is calculate the output of different windings with a modified EI transformer core setup like in the Magetic Flux Gate picture on JB's site: IDEAS AND MOTORS. I have 25 salvaged 120V-24V 200VA transformers with EI cores identical to these: Tempel Steel. I am looking at using several of these together with the gates offset from each other to cancel as much of the magnetic cogging as possible. This is actually for the generator side for the setup in the Lockridge Device thread. I think I have enough info now to do some calculations by using a value for the magnetic field strength of 11,000 ampere-turns per centimeter for N42 NEO or flux density around 1.3 Teslas. The other thing that interested me was the use of square magnet wire. I didn't even know it existed until you mentioned in your post.


With regard to your picture in post# 3399, I have been trying to figure out how the circuit paths work. In this configuration, do the bottom 2 batteries lose charge as the top 2 gain charge requiring the batteries to be swapped between top and bottom? If so, it looks like it functions like a mirrored 3 battery setup. I can see how there would be a gain over other configurations as you have eliminated almost all of the voltage drops by eliminating the diodes and extra transistors. I just got in a few different picaxe chips (18M2, 18X, 28X2, 40X2) to try out so I am looking forward to trying to replicate yours and Jeff's setups. Is your setup working like a mirrored 3 battery switch?
Thanks.

Alex