Use for the Tesla Switch

[Matthew Jones]

I really need help with this one. The room keeps gettin filled with smoke from the relays. This is a drawing of the TS I have been working on. I have fired it up twice. Both times relays AB & F switch. No smoke until the Picaxe switches off AB & F then DE & C on. Relays DE & C smoke. These are new relays wired with 8 awg on the output side and 16 awg on the control side. I have tested all relays prior to turning system on with light and battery. Picaxe drives the relays high for 65,000 units and off 15 units. Then Pin B3 high for 65,000 and low for 15 units. I am using separate PS driving Picaxe with 5 volts. I have also connected 5 volts to Darlington Chip with same PS. I am using 4ea Trojan Club Car 12V Deep Cycle for batteries.

I have the control wires run in parallel to a terminal block then connected to B1 for the first group. B3 drives the second group of relays.

Looking at the Hongfa DC relays it has polarity markings on the unit Is this the correct relay to use?

With 6 switch configuration diodes are almost required. You should refer to Patrick Kelly's drawing and eliminate the capacitors that are serial with the load.

Do not use a duty cycle at all Turn one side off and turn the other one on immediately. If you use a large capacitor (2-3 farad stereo cap) after your bridge rectifier the inverter will not know you have turned off the power.

Now if you want you can chang your configuration to a transformer setup like my simple switch or just use bridges instead of the transformer.


!!WARNING!! I have not tested this but it should work.

Again use as little duty cycle as possible. Depending on the hong fa switch you are running and the capacitors that are in the Inverter you should probably tune well around 40 to 60 hz (HZ being 1 complete cycle), But you could go lower if needed. If you are using Mechanical relays don't switch any faster than about every 10 seconds.

Hope that helps

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

@Gills

One more thing I forgot. A Hongfa relay is not a complete blocking relay, so you can get Short circuit out of it. Thats why you will require diodes to prevent the flow of current in different directions.

A mechanical relay though completely blocks the current so they will act differently.

When using a SSR you need to treat your circuit as if it were mosfet or transistor based switching, and follow the rules as needed.

Just to let you know so you don't get down on yourself I have let the smoke out of alot of hong fa relays trying to learn how to use them. It really sucks.

Don't get discouraged though. If you have doubt post and I'll help the best I can.

Matt

[rosehillworks]

4bts

Matt
4 battery Tesla Switch A.jpgThis is the TS gill is doing now. do you see any thing wrong with it ?

[Matthew Jones]

He should need diodes.

I pointed that out to him above.

Matt

[Mario]

The slow ones work very well. 8 -10 times more out but the load capacity is not great. It takes alot of batteries. You can maintain it for long periods of time if you have a secondary input of power that gets routed to the charge batteries. I have 8 of them running at this time and last I checked they all were still putting power out. Most have 20 -30 batteries on the them of various makes. One has almost 80 batteries on it now. I am not responsible for it though I just put the switch together another local fellow has been upgrading it. It provides light and small amounts of AC at a camping area he manages. I built it for them so they didn't have to listen to a generator at the river its located on.

I have ran several SG's on the different switching setups they work very good.

Within the next couple of month I plan to release a version that will eliminate the need for SG. A corrrectly wound and switched transformer is all you need....


Sorry I didn't answer sooner I have been outa town and I am playing catch up.

Matt

Hi Matt, thanks. Yes, I know what kind of transformer you mean... . Since the setup I'm putting together is small I'll use a multistrand solid state SG which can be as high as 85-90% efficiency and low ohm. What relais switching speed would you recommend if I'm using 9Ah motorcycle batts, like a couple minutes each? Or simply switch when the voltage ramp on the batteries starts to stabilize?

Mario

[redeagle]

Inverter two cap pulser

A few pages back someone had mentioned running a two cap pulser or inverter two cap pulser. Have many people tried that. I know the batteries make a large determination in what loads you can draw but the idea seems worth looking into to me.

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

A few pages back someone had mentioned running a two cap pulser or inverter two cap pulser. Have many people tried that. I know the batteries make a large determination in what loads you can draw but the idea seems worth looking into to me.

Here you go,

Enjoy

Cheers

1n4001-Q1 1n4001
1n4001-Q5 1n4001
C1 0.33uf
C2 0.1uf
C4 27,000uf 35V
C5 27,000uf 35V
Cap-Q1 1.0uf
Cap-Q5 1.0uf
D1 STPS8H100D
D2 1N5408
D3 STPS8H100D
D4 Bridge
D5 1N5408
D6 STPS8H100D
D9 STPS8H100D
DB9
J1
J2
J3
LED1 Red
LED2 Red
LED4 Red
Q1 MJL21194
Q2 MJL21194
Q5 MJL21194
Q6 MJL21194
Q7 MJL21193
Q8 MJL21194
R1 120K 1/4 watt
R2 10k 1/2 Watt
R3 10k 1/4 Watt
R4 22k 1/4 Watt
R5 330R 1/4 Watt
R6 330R 1/4 Watt
R8 100 Ohm 1/4 Watt
R9 10K pot
SW1 Reset E28
T1 273-1365A
U1 PICAXE-18X
U3 LM7805
U-Q1 H11d1
U-Q5 H11d1
U-Q7 H11d1

[admin]

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@All,

This thread is for sharing about the Tesla Switch technology itself. It is not for private arguments that add nothing to the topic. Please argue amongst yourselves elsewhere, this is not the place.

[redeagle]

Right now I'm using the tesla switch to drive the transformer directly, differen't cap values in the cap pulser and analog control. Currently I have the 24v ct version of that same transformer series driving 12v ac on the 24v output leads then rectifying the output. i can send the charge directly back into the TS but it does not keep the batteries charged over time. so i am charging a fifth battery and rotating it in. I have tried with and without capacitors on the TS ac output, the caps increase the rectified output to the cap pulser but also increase the draw from the primary bank.

I know that if I add a second identical transformer in parallel that output is potentially doubled, but would the increase be large enough to make up for the difference in load on the batteries?

[Matthew Jones]

I know that if I add a second identical transformer in parallel that output is potentially doubled, but would the increase be large enough to make up for the difference in load on the batteries?

Unfortunately not. You have to maintain the charge in the batteries with the switching on that side.

Are you running 6 switch's to drive your batteries or what?

Matt

[redeagle]

i have six MJLs driven with opto couplers. Just simple switching with a common positive between two sides. Having the common positive allows to feed back an auxilary charge into the system to bring the batteries back up after draining them trying to power a load. Can be nearly any charge current suitable to charge the batteries. Charging them back up now then i'm going to try some different loads. My ultimate goal would be to power a motor/generator that keeps the system charged then ultimately upgrade components and batteries to where I can power my minibike. But don't have the resources to do that atm.

[redeagle]

I moved my optocouplers over to my basic stamp. Right now I have it pulsing each battery independantly for 1 second and resting for 5ms before moving on to the next battery. Load is a 12.6-0-12.6 450ma transformer. The HV side is being rectified and sent back to the charge battery. The transformer is coupled to the ac output of the switch through a 1uf non polarized cap on each AC leg. I'm going to give in another hour before i take my measurements for comparison. then again in the morning.

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

The "Digital" Tesla Switch v5.0b

Tesla Switch 5_0b.mpg - YouTube

Take a look. Here is the "non existent" Digital Tesla switch. Complete with terminal logging. It uses a 28x-2 chip (PIC Micro 18F2520) running at 16Mhz. (switching is much slower though). Of late, some said this was not doable. It uses transistors in a compond complex configuration, known as the Sziklai pair. In contrast to the Darlington arrangement, the Sziklai pair has one NPN and one PNP transistor, and so it is sometimes called the "complementary Darlington". Current gain is similar to that of a Darlington pair, which is the product of the gains of the two transistors. The configuration is named for its inventor George C. Sziklai. It only takes .2v to bias unlike some other switching methodolgies. Did I mention "Terminal logging" and LCD readout?" Can analog do that?

enjoy

Bit's

I tried to attach a log but it is over 2 Mb. so I'll paste a sample here;




Welcome to


MachineOfTime1!


Log Date 8/24/11


I am Reading Values->


Batt 1


Batt 3


*Auto Charging*

Batt 1 Volts=12.4

Batt 2 Volts=12.2

Batt 3 Volts=12.6

Batt 4 Volts=12.8


Batt 2


Batt 4


*Auto Charging*

Batt 1 Volts=12.4

Batt 2 Volts=12.3

Batt 3 Volts=12.5

Batt 4 Volts=12.8


Batt 2


Batt 4


*Auto Charging*

Batt 1 Volts=12.3

Batt 2 Volts=12.3

Batt 3 Volts=12.5

Batt 4 Volts=12.8


Batt 1


Batt 4


*Auto Charging*

Batt 1 Volts=12.3

Batt 2 Volts=12.3

Batt 3 Volts=12.5

Batt 4 Volts=12.8


Batt 1


Batt 4


*Auto Charging*

Batt 1 Volts=12.3

Batt 2 Volts=12.3

Batt 3 Volts=12.5

Batt 4 Volts=12.8


Batt 1

[ashtweth]

Exactly like you said my friend. Jeff i dont know how you film and do all that with one hand:, your just showing off now bro I expected it to be nice but not that amazing Jeff, speechless.
THANK YOU

Ash

[Matthew Jones]

Bout time you started showing off bit!!!
Looks good.

Matt