Originally posted by Sobakin
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Hi guys,
Not being happy with the results from the OFF THE SHELF 12-0-12/240v
transformer, I want to pull apart an old centre tap that is 2.25" x 1.75" x
1.5". This old transformer was kept out of a ghetto-blaster type cd/tape/radio. The primary is open circuit.
I would dearly love some advice on how to pull this apart so I may rewire
using Matt's wiring scheme.
Has anyone got any tips on how to best pull these apart without destroying
the laminations
and
as the windings appear in two segments, when we rewind, do we try and use
the entire spool or just stick to one half.
Thanks, Garry
I'll try and pop a pic up soon.Last edited by garrypm; 10-09-2011, 04:05 AM.
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Hi folks, Hi garry, when I took apart my transformer, I removed all the wire first, then used a small flat head screw driver and lightly tapped in proper spot on edge of lamination as the first lamination seems the hardest to get off, then the rest pop off more easily.
An exacto knife is useful also to encourage any stubborn laminations to separate.
Though mine had no rust and was not weathered, so maybe yours could be more difficult. Hope that helps.
I got my stamp kit board today, I am very grateful for the donation.
So I will be soldering up the board.
Still not sure if I am going to rewind my transformer with 24 gauge, I just might since I think 2n3055 transistors will not handle the peak currents.
peace love light
tyson
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Some updates
Hi all
Sorry I haven't posted answers to question but I don't feel its advantageous to the group to answer every little transformer and wire question that comes up.
I have already explained you need an laminated iron transformer, Hopefully in good shape, and wire that leaves you with 1 ohm or less of resistance in primaries.
After that you need to just take the leap of faith and get the job done. Only 2 things will happen.
The thing will work and you will see results that you can then study and modify upon.
The thing won't work well, in which case you can begin to trouble shoot and look further into how to improve your recipe.
Both of these things are what good researchers do.
I know that sounds hard but you have to understand.....
I did not sit around and ask people for nuance details.
I did not have concern as to whether mine is going to work or not. Fire and heat and cost, were not a concern.
I jumped into the process feet first and got the job done.
So if you do not understand what you are expected to do and see by now than I am sorry for ya. And as much I want everyone to make this work I know that is just not going to happen. Some of you in all rational have no buisness even touching a project like this.
The people who will make it work are the ones who spend less time typing and more time looking.
Everyone seems to be more than eager, but this is the moment in which that is not enough. Just get the thing running. Period.
Then worry about whether or not it runs good.
So again I am sorry if this sounds hard, but you have to understand why I set all this out. I wanted to find the researcher who got it up and running and immediately started looking to improve or take it further.
And those slots are filling up fast.
Soon I will not be here anymore because life is getting busy. Thats why I wrote the PDF.
So I truly hope some more replications come in and more efforts to improve get documented over the course of the next couple weeks.
On a side note. I have made changes to correct a few mistakes in the PDF. Details on a larger version are in the works but no date set for release as of yet.
Cheers
Matt
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Hi Matthew
Soon I will not be here anymore because life is getting busy. Thats why I wrote the PDF.
And yes I am one off those ppl who typ almost nothing but working behind the screens.
Waiting atm for the Propeller Platform USB with I order by gadget gangster.
I am working on several devices and have study this TS and the original in the pas.
Your design is realy interesting and I gonna build this one also.
In the mean while working on some ideas i have to improve your TS.
To give you an idea, leaf the 3e wire for the output away, and steal here the node the way Tesla dit it.
I have think on more variations.... but that can workt out wen I have the propeller.
Hmz was hoping to read your second .pdf ?
But now you are leaving here this is no more possible ?
Sorry for my Englisch, I am Dutch ...
Later I wil make a little movie from my workshop and things i made and email you the url.
So you can see i am serious, and no yoker.
BTW I am daily here on the forum reading everything, and reading al things from JB, TB, and having al movies in the meanwhile.
My real name ?
Lastname is Fermi .
Maybe you have heard that name before.
Hope you find time to come along now and then, many thanks for your work and effort.
Grtz
Dick
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Originally posted by Sobakin View PostI was never program microcontrollers, but I feel that this variant will be correct too:
---------------
main:
pulsout 2, 200
goto _delay ; this delay is for symmetric waveform
_delay:
pulsout 3, 200
goto main
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As we actually don't know how many tacts or microseconds use "goto" instruction, we simply add another same instruction.
main:
pulsout 2, 200
goto
pulsout 3, 200
goto main
or must I type a value in somewhere
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I tried to improve the scheme, so that's what I'll try to build in 2-3 days.
Using 4 switches and wouldn't need to swap batteries, if it'll work as I imagine.Attached FilesLast edited by Sobakin; 10-09-2011, 06:11 PM.
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Hi Vissie,
You need to add the word "_delay" after the goto statement in the line after the pulsout 2 command. Then you need to add a line with just the word "_delay:". This creates a function that does nothing except take up the same amount of time as the goto main function. This evens out the pulses so the delay between pulses is the same. Just type it in as Sobakin has it and it will work. If you want to change the timing you just change the value after the pulsout 2 and pulsout 3 commands. His statement "; this delay is for symmetric waveform" is for information only. It does not have to be included.
Carroll
Sorry Bit's. I guess we were typing at the same time.Just because someone disagrees with you does NOT make them your enemy. We can disagree without attacking someone.
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Hi Carroll.
I finished winding my transformer with a lot of hard time but i did it at last .
I have two wire 20 AWG with about 17m. and the AC wire is 21AWGand its about 21.5m long and i measure the resistance for the 12v wire and it was 0.9,0.8 Ohm but I have found that the resistance of the AC wire was 1.3-1.4 Ohm I don’t weather is it ;k or not because you had mention before that the resistance should be less than 1 Ohm .
Thanks
EhsanTake the wisdom even from the mouths of the insane
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Hi ehsanco,
Actually I was just repeating what Matt had said earlier. This is his design. I was only saying my modified Radio Shack transformer had about .4 ohms and seemed to be working ok. I think you should try it and see what happens. It may still work just not as well as one with lower resistance in the windings.
CarrollJust because someone disagrees with you does NOT make them your enemy. We can disagree without attacking someone.
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I think you should try it and see what happens. It may still work just not as well as one with lower resistance in the windings.
Carroll[/QUOTE]
HI Carroll
Thanks a lot for the information and I will give it a try after I will get my two 7.2 ah 12v batt.
Thanks
EhsanTake the wisdom even from the mouths of the insane
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Hello Matt, Bits and Everyone,
Ive seen how much work has gone into this thread and wanted to play with
your ideas, Matt. I beleive it may have close connections to other projects
I have been working on.
I rewound an iron core transformer, 72.5 mm tall, 86 mm wide and 27 mm
thick(iron). I was able to get two 18 awg 50 feet long each and one 19 awg at
65 feet onto the core. That will give you guy's some idea what you can
expect to get on a smaller transformer. I did not get the number of turns as
my counter quit in the middle and I was not going to start over.
Bits, I wanted to know if a version 2.2.3 TS would be appropriate for testing
this set up, and is the code that was posted a couple pages ago ok?
Also this version had two load outputs, "load" and "charge load"?
This has the Picaxe 18x, and I was also wondering if the 18M will work as well?
I would like to post some results using four 12v 8ah batteries soon.
Mark P.
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