Use for the Tesla Switch

[ren]

Hi,

I can confirm that I am getting much better output with a fresh set of batteries.

A couple of questions remain -

1. From Matt's document, we see mention of the 400Hz switch (news article)
and with my meter measuring AC from the secondary (9.8v), the meter
shows approximately 200Hz if I set the delay in the Arduino to 2000us. To
get 400Hz at the output, I need to reduce the delay to 1000us or there abouts.
I Know my maths are a bit rusty but, if we set a pin high then wait 1000us
and then set the pin low and wait another 1000us then repeat, the cycle
would be 1/period = 1/2000us = 500Hz
At 2000us, 1/4000us = 250hz.
This is a bit confusing because the STAMP guys use PULSEOUT and
the ARDUINO guys must set High, wait, then set low and wait again.

Can anyone clarigy this for me?

2. One transistor from the pair of ONLY one set is getting warmer than the
oher three (Matt's darlington schematic). Should I just replace the transistor
(MJE13007) or is this somewhat expected ?

Thanks, Garry

p.s. anyone getting better than expected results and can I ask what size 12v
bulb are you guys using - mine is a 5 watt.

'

Hi Gary.

I got my switch up and running. The power transfer is pretty lame, but my transformer is just something I threw together. The principle is there. Im switching in micro seconds (need to read up on the simple change to millisec) at the moment I switch on for 8 and off for 1. I believe the SSR I am using has a 1 microsecond switch off time or less. But I think others are using no "off time" at all.

One thing I did do to make this thing snort was short the output cap with a 50 watt halogen. I could hear the thing load down, it dropped to 1v on the cap and the one battery I have charging at the moment shot up in voltage quite quickly. Im wondering if one couldnt use a bunch of high wattage LEDs in parallel and load the thing down to 3v? Anyway, I will be pulling the transformer off and tinkering with that now.

Regards

[garrypm]

Hi Ren,

Thanks for the post

I have just switched out the pair of MJE13007's where one was getting warmer
than all the others - no change.

Swapped the pins from the arduino and found the heat followed the pin.
Change the code to use pin 12 instead of 11 - no difference.

Changed the code to LOW 12 & HIGH 10 wait then
LOW 10 & HIGH 12
thinking my heat was caused by both pins HIGH for that very short moment
between instructions - no change.

I am at this moment, going back over the wiring again.

Let you guys know soon enough.

Are we all expecting the TOP two batteries to charge ?

Thanks, Garry

p.s. at work today I had to replace a transformer in a coffee machine. The
primary was open circuit. Have delaminated it and begun winding to have another
transformer to compare - 2" x 2" x 1.5"

Sorry Ren, the change to go to MILLI instead of MICRO is simply use "delay" not "delaymicroseconds"

[garrypm]

Ok, one step closer.

The heat follows the pin from the arduino and as Ren said, one of the top
batteries charges and in my setup the other drops.

Thinking to remove all the handy code to adjust on the run and go back to
simple switching. Lot more work to adjust timing but I need to know why
the one side does what it is doing.

Garry

[ehsanco1062]

Hi Ehsan,

Well there are several things that you can play with. You are restricting your thinking too much. For instance no one said you had to use a 10 watt load. Maybe a 12 watt load would work better. Maybe a pulseout of 8000 and 8000 would work better or maybe 4000 and 4025. You need to make a chart and try different loads and pulsing times and look for the best charging and best voltage on the load. Then try to find a compromise between the two. Are you putting a delay between pulses? On mine it works best with no delay other than what is caused by the execution of the code. It also works best with both pulses the same. Good luck.

Carroll

Hi Carroll

Thanks for your concern and your time to help and advice ,I did try many loads and different pulses but it seems that I have the same problem I can get best voltage over load with pulsout 3100,4000 but with this pulsout I will charge only one battery and the other battery seems to be discharge as if it is charging the other battery I cannot charge both batteries at the same time even if I use same pulses , this is the problem maybe there is something wronged with my circuit or maybe I couldn’t find the best tuning yet and i need to work more as you said ,and I am not using any delay between the pulses.

Thanks
Ehsan

[citfta]

Hi Ehsan,

You may have a weak battery on one side. I had one that didn't have the power to deliver the punch needed to charge the top battery. Swap the bottom batteries and see if the other side now charges. Then if that doesn't show anything try swapping the top batteries.

Carroll

[garrypm]

@Ren,

Avoid using the program I had alluded too for easy timing adjustments.

This is what was giving me very uneven pusling and excess heating on the
side that was last driven before my Arduino had to go through the rest of the code.

Back to simple -

void setup() {
// initialize the digital pin as an output.

pinMode(10, OUTPUT);
pinMode(12, OUTPUT);
}

void loop() {

digitalWrite(12, LOW);
digitalWrite(10, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(2000); // wait for a bit

digitalWrite(10, LOW);
digitalWrite(12, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(2000); // wait for another bit
}


and the scope now shows a very even duty cycle.

Sorry if I led you up the garden path though I will sit down and write some
decent code that we can use to adjust on the run.

Thanks, Garry

[ehsanco1062]

Hi Ehsan,

You may have a weak battery on one side. I had one that didn't have the power to deliver the punch needed to charge the top battery. Swap the bottom batteries and see if the other side now charges. Then if that doesn't show anything try swapping the top batteries.

Carroll

Hi Carroll

I always swapping the batteries and beside I bought the batteries
All new three weeks ago and I can charge only one battery just by
Changing the pulses I can charge the rift or the the left battery
So I don't think that there is aweek battery.and I fond with 13 w load I canget voltage across the load 12.70v but the light is not so bright.

Thanks Carroll
Ehsan

[Rl2003]

Opti schematic

Hey all,
I was wiring up a little board to run this Transfomer and on page 25
of Matts Pdf (fig. 7a) it seems that the opti is shown with pin 5 going
to the base and pin 4 to ground. Is this correct, because I have used
opti's the other way around? This is the last thing I need to do
before firing this up and testing it. I am sure it was just the way he
drew it out, but I thought I would ask anyway.

Here is a picture of my setup, although I could not program the chip directly
to the board so I have modified Bit's PIC pulsinator to do that from pins
0-3 outputs. I hope it works I want to try a few different transformer I have
around.
Mark

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Hey all,
I was wiring up a little board to run this Transfomer and on page 25
of Matts Pdf (fig. 7a) it seems that the opti is shown with pin 5 going
to the base and pin 4 to ground. Is this correct, because I have used
opti's the other way around? This is the last thing I need to do
before firing this up and testing it. I am sure it was just the way he
drew it out, but I thought I would ask anyway.

Here is a picture of my setup, although I could not program the chip directly
to the board so I have modified Bit's PIC pulsinator to do that from pins
0-3 outputs. I hope it works I want to try a few different transformer I have
around.
Mark

Mark, are you using the MJL's or FET's?
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...tch-sample.jpg



Bit's

[lamare]

Benitez patents

You guys may want to check out these patents, which are very similar to the Tesla switch:

Directory contents of /pdf/Patents/Benitez/

Remember that old-school rectifiers are very similar to electrolytic capacitors. See my article at pes:
Article:Free Electric Energy in Theory and Practice - PESWiki

The part on the rectifiers is the last part on the pierce on Puharich.

what I think is particularly interesting on Benitez is how he configured his transformers. That may give you some ideas to consider.

[Rl2003]

Mark, are you using the MJL's or FET's?
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...tch-sample.jpg



Bit's

MJL's 93's and 94's Bits.
Mark

[citfta]

Hi Mark,

That is the same circuit I have built. You are correct Matt shows it with pin 4 going to ground and pin 5 going to the base of the MJL 21193. The reason this seems backward to you is because he is using the opto to control a PNP transistor instead of a NPN. Matt's drawing is correct.

Carroll

PS Nice looking board.

[Rl2003]

Hi Mark,

That is the same circuit I have built. You are correct Matt shows it with pin 4 going to ground and pin 5 going to the base of the MJL 21193. The reason this seems backward to you is because he is using the opto to control a PNP transistor instead of a NPN. Matt's drawing is correct.

Carroll

PS Nice looking board.

Thanks Carroll,
After I posted I thought that maybe it, but I am still learning the Electronic, Schematic's and stuff as I go. I am a Visual learner.. after a while I will
remember stuff like that. I will have to flip the wires to the 4-5 pins.

Bits, So please explain why you have your board the opposite, or at least the schematic (rev 2.2.3) is?
I am not questioning your method just trying to learn the differences.

Mark

[Bit's-n-Bytes]

Thanks Carroll,
After I posted I thought that maybe it, but I am still learning the Electronic, Schematic's and stuff as I go. I am a Visual learner.. after a while I will
remember stuff like that. I will have to flip the wires to the 4-5 pins.

Bits, So please explain why you have your board the opposite, or at least the schematic (rev 2.2.3) is?
I am not questioning your method just trying to learn the differences.

Mark

Totally different setup. Opto's are configured different ways for different reasons. If your setup uses the tranny's in a Sziklai pair like the illustration in the previous link connect your opto just like it shows and you'll be fine.

Thanks

Bit's

[Rl2003]

Totally different setup. Opto's are configured different ways for different reasons. If your setup uses the tranny's in a Sziklai pair like the illustration in the previous link connect your opto just like it shows and you'll be fine.

Thanks

Bit's

Ok Bits,
I just have to fip the two and I should be good to Go..
I have reprogramed the pic for now and hope to see some
results shortly.
Mark