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To invert the signal you use an NPN transistor. Connect a 1 kohm resistor from your power to the collector of the NPN transistor. Connect the base to the 555 and the emitter to ground. Take the inverted signal from the collector of the transistor. When the base goes high the collector will go low.
Just because someone disagrees with you does NOT make them your enemy. We can disagree without attacking someone.
To invert the signal, connect the base of PNP to the output pin of 555. Which pin of 555 should I connect to the emitter? Ground of battery or the 0-Volts pin of 555? I still confused.
You have to know the difference and how to drive them before you use them. And although all answers are available, you have to try to understand before someone else can help. So the tutorial will teach you the difference.
I did ask for feedback about the potential gains in a Tesla Switch and you gave it. I forgot to say thanks, so thanks for that.
I read the first few pages of the thread and understand you were getting close to 8 times what one would normally get using batteries conventionally, in my mind thats definitely worth the effort.
I did ask for feedback about the potential gains in a Tesla Switch and you gave it. I forgot to say thanks, so thanks for that.
I read the first few pages of the thread and understand you were getting close to 8 times what one would normally get using batteries conventionally, in my mind thats definitely worth the effort.
Regards
lotec
2x is worth the effort..? When people finally start to understand how the impedance of a battery (IE negative resistor) works and how to track it then they'll figure out how the Tesla switch or Benitez switch works and why. Seeing near infinite gains is really worth it too.
Unfortunately to get to that point I was bound to an NDA and I am not sure who owns that at this time so I cannot help you with specifics, I enjoy not being in court after my youth and all I experienced at that time.
2x is worth the effort..? When people finally start to understand how the impedance of a battery (IE negative resistor) works and how to track it then they'll figure out how the Tesla switch or Benitez switch works and why. Seeing near infinite gains is really worth it too.
Unfortunately to get to that point I was bound to an NDA and I am not sure who owns that at this time so I cannot help you with specifics, I enjoy not being in court after my youth and all I experienced at that time.
t
Thanks for the extra info, given your situation I wont press you for those types of details.
Thanks for the extra info, given your situation I wont press you for those types of details.
Regards
lotec
Here's a good read you may find of interest: "Explanation of John Bedini's Formation of Negative Resistors by Tom Bearden 4-26-00" at the link below (odd link title for some reason):
Here's a good read you may find of interest: "Explanation of John Bedini's Formation of Negative Resistors by Tom Bearden 4-26-00" at the link below (odd link title for some reason):
I know that NPN: (base to emitter) trigger (collector to emitter)
PNP: (emitter to base) trigger (emitter to collector)
That's enough. What else do I need to know?
Maybe this circuit can give you some ideas for your switching.
If you built this little practice circuit and touch point A to the positive then the negative your battery while watching what happens with the LEDs, then you will know what happens when you swap the little signal transistors with IRF 9540 and IRF 540 complimentary P and N channel 100V 30A power FETS.
They are even easier because you dont use the 10K resistors on the base/gate and point A can be connected straight to pin3 of a 555. And they probably use less bias cuurent than NPN PNP.
My name is Bob French and I am a friend of Dave's. About 3 months ago I built two of John Bedini's circuits from DVD 38 using an Arduino instead of his chip (because I had too much trouble soldering it together), one with 13Ah Walmart batteries and one with 4Ah motorcycle batteries. They both switch back and forth 24v to 12v to 24v..., but the batteries fell though very slowly.
Dave said that he had built several and got them to work right, but only with your help, so I downloaded your 32 page guide and am waiting for the last of the parts to arrive. I will build a unit using four 12Ah motorcycle batteries, 21194's, and an Arduino, etc., and get back to you.
I disassembled the 13Ah system, but the other is fine. The interesting thing about JB's circuit is that the portion connecting the Neg.s has an LED opposing the other diodes...which should stop all current both directions, yet the LED lights. (?)
OK, I'll get back to you when I have something more.
I built this with four 4Ah 12V motorcycle batteries, six MJL21194s, eight SB 570 diodes, two 10mm LEDs, six H11D1s, two MJE13005s (for Darlington arrangement on input signal), a LM7805, a knife zwitch, and a 6V battery (to run the Arduino).
It switches back and forth, 12V to 24V. One LED lights very bright while the other lights less bright, but twice as often (?). My other setup did the same thing. (?) Any suggestions?
It runs, but slowly loses. I set up a fwbr/cap unit to take AC off the Neg end terminals of each bank (not shown), which worked, but encreased drain on setup even with a very small load. This thing will run for a long time, but...
You need to calculate switching cost, even though you have 6 volt battery all those diodes lose. After you know switching cost, power transfered, and time you can create a ratio for what is actually loss and what is cost.
If your switching back and forth your gonna lose, cause the battery is not good at being a capacitor, go one way till one bank is full and the other is not. If you can incorporate a third bank to rest, then you have one that charges, one that rests and one that discharges.
Most important figure loss and cost. Cost has to be supplemented and loss has to be done away with or supplemented.
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