Use for the Tesla Switch

[Kepszlok]

There are several good articles out there on winding toroids. They cover both how to do it economically and for precision. Just look around bit before you get going.

Matt

Yes, you are right. After doing some learning, now i know how to do my wireing right.

First, i completly disassembled my toroid wireing turn by turn (except the original primer, i simply cut it down because it was more than half cm wide). It was a slow process, but now i have the bare core to work with. It's 2cm tall with 8cm outer and 5 cm inner diameter.
It's made from many metal sheet, so this must be "electric steel". Electric steel's uR value are somewhere 500..4000, so i can calculate with it.

Second, the math. 100 turns of AWG21 fits perfectly in this core, and with the other parameters, this means 10..75mH per coil (depends on the real uR value). Transformer simulation in Tina shows that this parameters will be perfect for 100..200Hz operation.
One turn in this core will be 8.5cm long, so i need 2x 8.5m wire for the primers. With the toroid's ~95% efficency, then i choosed the secunder to 9.5m.

I'm doing the wireing now, we will see in monday how it works in real life. I have high hopes!

[Kepszlok]

Hmm, the new wireing on the transformer are a bit better. The two primers have an inductance of 22 and 25mH while the secunder have 37mH. With this values, the optimal frequency for the highest output are between 60..82Hz.
It is still not as high as i hoped for, but it is still better than before.

I think furter sortening of the coils for smaller inductance and higher working frequency are still necessary. (now i know the core's uR value, it's 1200 so i can calculate with it) Like 50 turns for the primers will gave only about 5mH.

I changed nothing in the circuit for the first test, and the output voltage was 15..17Vdc (open) and 10.6Vdc with 12ohm of load. During the test, it showed 0.19V/hour drain in the lower batterys and no charge up in the upper ones. The switching transitors are still quite hot, so there are a lot of power goes to waste. I will solve this issue in the next days.
The 0.19V/hour means of this circuit can do about the same as the batterys with the same load (~10hour), along with a lot of extra waste heat generation. So the overall power index are positive.

[Kepszlok]

I bought an oscilloscope recently, and i do some experimenting with different transistors and base currents.

Now i'm know, the MJE13009 are totally unusable for the TS. It's simply a crappy transistor.
After that i got better MJE15032 ones, but they are still producing a lot of excess heat in any base current settings.
Finally i get some Tip35C transistors, they remains cool and dosen't costs much. I'm stick with them.

But with the Tip35C ones, i still not experienced any battery charging at all. I can think only 2 things.
1: need to set up the correct base current. I'm unsure about the proper primer current settings.
2: 100Hz are not enough high. I may had to rewire my toroid with even less wireing to achive lower inductance.

[Danny B]

New Tesla drawings

I can't find an actual "Tesla" thread so, this is the closest.
"A recently discovered set of original Nikola Tesla drawings reveal a map to multiplication that contains all numbers in a simple to use system. The drawings were discovered at an antique shop in central Phoenix Arizona by local artist, Abe Zucca. They are believed to have been created during the last years of Tesla’s Free Energy lab, Wardenclyffe. The manuscript is thought to contain many solutions to unanswered questions about mathematics.

The Sketches were hidden in a small trunk with numerous other drawings and manuscripts ranging from hand-held technological devices to free-energy systems, many with notes scrawled all over them. Some of the pieces are already familiar to the public, but a few others are not. "
Long-Lost Nikola Tesla Drawings Reveal Map To Multiplication - CBS NEWS

[BroMikey]

I bought an oscilloscope recently, and i do some experimenting with different transistors and base currents.

Now i'm know, the MJE13009 are totally unusable for the TS. It's simply a crappy transistor.
After that i got better MJE15032 ones, but they are still producing a lot of excess heat in any base current settings.
Finally i get some Tip35C transistors, they remains cool and dosen't costs much. I'm stick with them.

But with the Tip35C ones, i still not experienced any battery charging at all. I can think only 2 things.
1: need to set up the correct base current. I'm unsure about the proper primer current settings.
2: 100Hz are not enough high. I may had to rewire my toroid with even less wireing to achive lower inductance.

Yes I found these things out also by trial and error, no where in text
form of video form can the truth be found to help you on the best
device to use. Also the china parts I am told can be bad or good so
you must test the part in your device. I use TIP switches and some
are darlingtons for oscillators.

The best we can hope for in enough time in a day after our normal
work day to sift through all of the bits and pieces found on youtube and also the text on blogs and so forth.

I burned up many many many many parts listening to these people
on these groups and as soon as I stops asking for a direction and
did the tests for myself, I never burned out any devices/transistors.

I was very surprised to find out this fact. Most all of the diagrams you
will see use 12volts ONLY so as soon as you go up to 18-20-24volt
on the input the transistor will over heat. Time to buy more.

Are you planning a Tesla switch? I hear it is a great learning tool
that gives people hope that EXTRA ENERGY can be had in some small
way. Up to now all we have are FREE ENERGY PDF claims or fake video's
fake patent information leaving us only to wonder.

Have you ever witnessed a Tesla switch operating in OVERUNITY?

I can not find one after many years of searching, other than an old
photo and some text from the 80's that we all have to go on. When I
find someone who did a TESLA switch on youtube they always entitle
with a ? mark. It will read "Tesla Switch Overunity????" The tuber will
always leave it up to the viewer on most threads an videos because
the measurement process always seems to keep us guessing.

I would love to see any free energy device shown in an operating
condition with a voltmeter but instead thousands have started these
experiments of complicated switching circuits and when they become
embarrassed that they didn't find anything, they disappear.

I can't find a single soul who has a TS working.

It is still a good learning process in electronics.

I use MJL21194 for 12 volts this is a great oscillator

I use MJL4281 for 24 volt inputs to Oscillator as the frequency goes up
and the voltage on the output stay below 70volts for an industrial
strength application.

For switching MOSFETS I use IRFP250 & IRFP260's for very low voltage
such as pulsing with a coil in the circuit to BOOSTER stay at 12volts
on the input and they are good at 2-3 amps running maybe.

Next for 24volt batteries use IRFP460's to go up to as high as 85-90volts in
dumping batteries or if coils are used oscillate input no more than 24volts.

I found all this out the hard way. The 13009 part you mentioned is
good for a driver of of a 555 timer or a TL594. Use 2 as the driver output.
Or if your oscillation is very low powered meaning a few miliamps say 300MA.


I would like to see you make a great switch and show this on this
thread if possible. So to succeed I would suggest you evaluate how
much voltage and current you are planning to divert through your
transistors and go by the info I use.

Have fun and never look back. Remember you may be the only one
who can whip this job and be able to show others how to do it.

Nothing like new blood to keep it going.

[Turion]

Working Tesla Switch

For those of you who DON'T know, there is a PDF floating around out there that Matt Jones put together which is based on the Benitez patents. (which I believe came BEFORE Tesla. But then, I might be mistaken.)

Anyway, Matt put together a guide to building THREE different smaller versions of the Tesla switch, and a LARGER version, and walked a group of folks here on THIS THREAD through the process. From what I remember, only a very few hardy soles actually came out the other side, and of those, I doubt that any of the others got to the point where they sat and studied their scope like Matt did, for hours at a time, until they saw what they needed to see to make the adjustments that MUST be made to get the thing to work to its potential. But work it does. I built all three of the small switches and started in on the Large switch. I still have all the parts for it lying around including the rewound transformer, which is a heck of a lot of work in itself. But after the output I saw, and after having some conversations with Matt about what to expect and what the thing is capable of, here's what I can tell you about the Tesla switch.....Solar is cheaper.

WHAT??????

Think about it for a moment. If you are looking for the kind of power you need to run a house out of a Tesla switch, you will need so many batteries to get up to that power level it is ridiculous, because you cannot DRAIN the batteries like you can with a solar system. You can only syphon off a little of the power as it moves back and forth to do some work with. Not only that, but you have to have TWO battery banks since the power must move from one to the other. So that is an expense for batteries that goes beyond what solar will cost you by a ways. I KNOW there are folks out there who have built working Tesla switches, but they have moved on to other things. As I have said before, COP>1 devices have been built by folks here, but COP>1 is not ENOUGH.

If you want a copy of that pdf., PM me with an address I can email it to, but don't expect Matt to spend time answering all your questions. He won't, and neither will I. If you read the document, the parts list and the schematics are ALL there and they have been tested by Matt, by me, and by others who built the small switches. They work. You will get more out than in. But you won't run your house with it. If you spend the time with it, it will PROVE to you that COP>1 is possible. But if all you want is proof. Hook up the 3BGS and run it. It's hell of a lot less work and you will get the same amount of proof. By the way, the 3BGS by itself is not enough either. I'm greedy that way.

Here's one hint I will give you for free. You will spend a lot of time beating your head against a wall if you are trying to use a torrid. But then again, you may discover something no one before you has discovered. These things DO happen.

Dave

[BroMikey]

Thanks Dave

I didn't get that part of the thread on who got it and how
many didn't, so this is good for me. The thing I always do is
jump on youtube and it is turning out to be a hoax to often.

Anyway getting the parts to stay in one piece is a good
effort and a decent proof of EXTRA. I'll never forget how thrilled
I was to get more than conventional systems gave.

[Kepszlok]

...I built all three of the small switches and started in on the Large switch...

Dave

Hi!

Did you drawn any diagrams about the battery voltages of these switches during operation?
And did you used that CT transformer what was in the pdf or an other non toroidal one?

I'm using a toroid for now, i will try to rewire it today to get a higher operation frequency. If it's not working, i will move on to an other transformer.
In your circuits, what frequency did u used?

BroMikey: i seen nothing positive so far, not even close.

[Matthew Jones]

I can't find an actual "Tesla" thread so, this is the closest.
"A recently discovered set of original Nikola Tesla drawings reveal a map to multiplication that contains all numbers in a simple to use system. The drawings were discovered at an antique shop in central Phoenix Arizona by local artist, Abe Zucca. They are believed to have been created during the last years of Tesla’s Free Energy lab, Wardenclyffe. The manuscript is thought to contain many solutions to unanswered questions about mathematics.

The Sketches were hidden in a small trunk with numerous other drawings and manuscripts ranging from hand-held technological devices to free-energy systems, many with notes scrawled all over them. Some of the pieces are already familiar to the public, but a few others are not. "
Long-Lost Nikola Tesla Drawings Reveal Map To Multiplication - CBS NEWS

You should start a thread on this. So everyone will see it.
Thanks
Matt

[dominator9999]

I can't find an actual "Tesla" thread so, this is the closest.
"A recently discovered set of original Nikola Tesla drawings reveal a map to multiplication that contains all numbers in a simple to use system. The drawings were discovered at an antique shop in central Phoenix Arizona by local artist, Abe Zucca. They are believed to have been created during the last years of Tesla’s Free Energy lab, Wardenclyffe. The manuscript is thought to contain many solutions to unanswered questions about mathematics.

The Sketches were hidden in a small trunk with numerous other drawings and manuscripts ranging from hand-held technological devices to free-energy systems, many with notes scrawled all over them. Some of the pieces are already familiar to the public, but a few others are not. "
Long-Lost Nikola Tesla Drawings Reveal Map To Multiplication - CBS NEWS

That is certainly not Nikola Tesla's signature.

[Turion]

Fake

This is NOT CBS news. It is a FAKE news site. Read ANY of their other articles. NONE of them are real.

[Kepszlok]

The rewire of my toroid was done, i simply cut down 1.5 meter wireing from all the coils, now thanx to the reduced inductance my toroid can work optimaly on 200+ Hz.

But this changed nothing, with 0.4A load, the lower batterys are simply draining with a rate of 0.16V / hour.

I attached my current setup, what's still wrong with it? I'm out of options.

[Matthew Jones]

The rewire of my toroid was done, i simply cut down 1.5 meter wireing from all the coils, now thanx to the reduced inductance my toroid can work optimaly on 200+ Hz.

But this changed nothing, with 0.4A load, the lower batterys are simply draining with a rate of 0.16V / hour.

I attached my current setup, what's still wrong with it? I'm out of options.

You know what it could be is the timer circuit is not allowing any off time. So the transistors for a limited time may be shorting the system. With IC you clearly turn off the pin then turn on the next but this may not be happening with the 555. You may inadvertently be turning both side for just a brief period and causing a dead short. Really quickly though may be hard to notice.

That would also account for the problems you were having with heat before. I have never done it the way you are doing it so I cannot speak for it.

Matt

[Kepszlok]

You know what it could be is the timer circuit is not allowing any off time. So the transistors for a limited time may be shorting the system. With IC you clearly turn off the pin then turn on the next but this may not be happening with the 555. You may inadvertently be turning both side for just a brief period and causing a dead short. Really quickly though may be hard to notice.

Matt

Hmm, it's possible. A 74HC74 DFliplfop creates the Q and Q- outputs from the 555's pulses.
Between the switches, there are a 10V high spike on the scope when it's connected on one of the 150ohm base resistors. (same on both)


I have hardware to make the switching custsomizable, but it's need some programming.

[Matthew Jones]

The rewire of my toroid was done, i simply cut down 1.5 meter wireing from all the coils, now thanx to the reduced inductance my toroid can work optimaly on 200+ Hz.

But this changed nothing, with 0.4A load, the lower batterys are simply draining with a rate of 0.16V / hour.

I attached my current setup, what's still wrong with it? I'm out of options.

So let me go into some detail on this. I may be wrong but from what I am seeing what I am explaining is probably the problem.

In the drawing you post under the 555 timer you have "Driver Transistors". This is where the problem is. You are most likely using an NPN to turn on from high signal, and PNP to turn on the low.
I do not know what power level your using through your 55 but 12 volt is most likely.
So picture what I am telling you.
The NPN is ON to drive one side. You have 12 volt on the base of the NPN to keep it ON and hold the PNP OFF.

Now your signal goes LOW, but it take time even if it seems fast it takes time. The NPN will not shut off until you are around .5 volt on the signal. The PNP turns ON as soon as you .5 volt of difference between the signal and the power on the Emitter. Current can start to flow.
Think about what I am telling you.

During the transition between HIGH and LOW, both transistors are on. So are the transistors between the batteries. You had big heat problems I did not follow that earlier because I did not know how your were driving this.

You should be using a 556 so you can isolate the signals from side to side and make sure the duty cycle incorporates small off times. Or use an IC as recommended.

I hope that helps let me know if you do not understand. I really am greatful your still working on it.

Cheers
Matt

You answered while I was typing.