Guide to the begginners
Hello Ufopolitics and Hello all members on this thread.
There are different type of DC motors. With brush, brush less, etc.
What is the suggestion, what type of and what size of motor should be the first subject of reconstruction into Asymmetrical type electric machine?
So, how to start as a beginner?
Thank you for the answer for advance, and kindest regards:
Holbi
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Originally posted by iankoglin View PostG'day UFO
I did not receive any reply from the E-Switch 4RH Series
I did however receive a reply from China I sent a copy of your Circuit for Nessie showing the Forward and Return contacts and they sent me a reply I did not show the email reply I just copied the downloads to my Photo Bucket here
Quotation For Rotary Switch Photos by Kogs1 | Photobucket
There does no seem to be any rotary switches available in Aus.
I do not understand how these rotary switches work
Please are these OK
Kindest regards
Have you looked into the Kraus & Naimer switches?
You can find them on Ebay:
Kraus Naimer C42 A250 Contact Rotary Switch | eBay
Mouser:
"rotary switch" Switches | Mouser
Newark:
Rotary Switches | Newark element14 US
Good Luck,
glen
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Originally posted by Ufopolitics View PostGood Day Kogs!
Excellent work my friend!
Yeah, those motors are running super smooth, non stopping torque!...And of course Torque MATTERS...we are referring to A MOTOR here...and motors are to render mechanical work...
I wanna see that Imperial kicking some A**!...
Now Kogs, I see you already made the brush connections internally in order to take out just four cables...two red, two black wires coming out of motor for a Four Brush system, then I assume you have connected Input in Parallel and Output (Generator) in series...am I correct?
Any ways, here are a couple of tests I would like you to film for Us here, on this same 1000W Razor.
1- Try Pulsing this Motor with the old 555 oscillator you excited your coils in my first Thread here...and test same things...RPM's, Amps and V Out (Generator)...while trying to stop it with the wood sticks...please see if you could do it with three voltage values.
2- Try this connection below:
[IMG][/IMG]
You already tested the CONNECTION 2 on your video above...but ple4ase do the Right Upper CONNECTION 1...then measure all parameters again.
First try it "linear" or straight from batteries (no pulse)...then try it pulsing motor, same connection, same measurements.
All this testing could also be applicable to your Imperial Beast as well...
...and be careful with those knees when you are lifting Imperial or Mecc Alte...they are heavy machines.
Excellent, beautiful work my Dear Friend!...and many, many thanks for sharing all this videos freely.
Warm Regards
Ufopolitics
While I am always waiting for parts I thought I might do something with the smaller Motors so I took the MY1060 20 pole and connected as you suggested above I first tried with 12 v straight then connected to the copy of the Mosfet driver circuit I used Originally and I was quite impressed
I did not take a video as I have to move toooo much to be able to present it but the results are
----vIn,..., Amps draw, VOut, AmpsOut
----12.46vin, 2.2A, 23.3vout, 0.006A
----24.60vin, 2.2A, 46.2vout, 0.021A
----37.00vin, 2.3A, 67.0vout, 0.270A
John Bedini has always said when charging a battery you always have to dump twice the battery voltage
Tomorrow I will try to put the output back into the battery
When I finish testing I will clear a space to make a video
Thanks for My friend for all your effort in helping Us here
I know how long it takes me to do things
Kindest regards
Kogs a bit slow but getting there
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G'day UFO
I did not receive any reply from the E-Switch 4RH Series
I did however receive a reply from China I sent a copy of your Circuit for Nessie showing the Forward and Return contacts and they sent me a reply I did not show the email reply I just copied the downloads to my Photo Bucket here
Quotation For Rotary Switch Photos by Kogs1 | Photobucket
There does no seem to be any rotary switches available in Aus.
I do not understand how these rotary switches work
Please are these OK
Kindest regards
Last edited by iankoglin; 05-01-2014, 07:10 AM.
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Pole connection methods winding direction
ufo,
Glad u said brushes dead center of magnet cuz no tuning avbl. on this style motor. I'd like to go over the standard connectivity you use in your diagrams. Front and Top commutator is the positive connection. And winding direction will be clockwise? One day soon I hope I will know it cold which way the pole in a coil will face! Gonna have to pull out my college E&M texts.
Thanks
Sam
Update: 3 coils wound last night. Looks like enough room for coil #4 with hedges. On a ten pole, once I get to coil 4, at least one slot is completely filled, right UFO? So I think it's tracking on my wire length calculation.
Update 2: 5 wound, group wire length looks good.
Update 3: 3 to go, pic show alternating wire colors
Last edited by sampojo; 05-01-2014, 07:17 PM.
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Can't wait to transfer the power tesla style!
This new winding really does look great, closest thing to an actual tesla generator schematic ive seen...I will be winding soon...I accidentally burned my commutators so i ordered 2 more motors...going to burn and wind them soon. Then experiments with transferring the energy off the generator side will come next!
There could be something to say about how much energy you can "pull" from the generator side...tesla was all about charging a capacitor and discharging it in an very small frame of time...often saying he could turn a 1kw generator into 3-5kw using these methods...
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I believe so...
Originally posted by stupify12 View PostHello Ufo.
I think you have really found the Dragless Generator of Tesla. Its a matter of time That design of All North Pole Rotor is actually the key to the Generator of Nikola Tesla which accelerate when underload.
Man. You are making history now, just analyze it a little and combine it to the Generator of Tesla which you have found the correct winding.
Keep up the good work
stupify12
Regards
Ufopolitics
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Originally posted by sampojo View PostHi Ufo, all
Motor shaft with new bearings needs one last adjustment for centering, off estimated couple hundredth's inch. Going to try to convert a broken brush wire weld to a mechanical fastener using 2-56 screw.
Ufo, see any issues with existing winding dgms, given this motor has less magnet in them? This redone pic shows what I mean.
Winding Very Soon!!
Update: EEHAAA last adjustments were PERFECTO! no binding, brush tension good, shaft centered. gonna measure out 32' 26ga wire per group per my last calculations, that'd be 8' per sub-coil. Figured out the manufacturer's assembly process to boot, with washer style brush retainers
Hey Sam,
Man, I am very happy to hear that!!...
Less magnet will not affect this motor to run, as long as you set the right timing/bisectors alignment....just go by magnets center.
It would just be less magnetic field, influencing in the strength and the generation of electricity...or should we call it "magnetricity"... (just kidding there)
Hoping to see it running soon!!
Ufopolitics
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The Acceleration Underload-Same concept with the Tesla Generator
Hello Ufo.
I think you have really found the Dragless Generator of Tesla. Its a matter of time That design of All North Pole Rotor is actually the key to the Generator of Nikola Tesla which accelerate when underload.
Man. You are making history now, just analyze it a little and combine it to the Generator of Tesla which you have found the correct winding.
Keep up the good work
stupify12
Originally posted by Ufopolitics View PostGood question Midaz,
It is not a Mistake...I have realized the Five Pole for each coil in the Group of my previous 20 Pole Diagram will bring too close, widen too much the Rotor North Bisectors Angles...and I feel more comfortable with Four...
Thanks
Ufopolitics
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GM Window regulator conversion Progress cont'd
Hi Ufo, all
Motor shaft with new bearings needs one last adjustment for centering, off estimated couple hundredth's inch. Going to try to convert a broken brush wire weld to a mechanical fastener using 2-56 screw.
Ufo, see any issues with existing winding dgms, given this motor has less magnet in them? This redone pic shows what I mean.
Winding Very Soon!!
Update: EEHAAA last adjustments were PERFECTO! no binding, brush tension good, shaft centered. gonna measure out 32' 26ga wire per group per my last calculations, that'd be 8' per sub-coil. Figured out the manufacturer's assembly process to boot, with washer style brush retainersLast edited by sampojo; 04-29-2014, 03:36 AM.
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Kogs Dual Solenoids Reversing Nessie
Hello Kogs,
I feel better with this Dual Solenoids on Reverse function.
[IMG][/IMG]
The second reverse Solenoid will just disconnect P8 and P22 when reverse is turned on...it will get activated by connecting both solenoids (S2, S3) actuating coils in parallel (that connection not shown on Diagram)
I just did not wanted to use same solenoid then be sending drain signals to those two Motor Positive gates...since they will be sending reversed voltage when on...this way...no conflicts at all.
If you forgot and left one shifting SW On...no problem...nothing will happen...
It is understood that reverse function is to be used for short periods of time...not to drive Nessie in reverse...
You should conduct a couple of tests to check which voltage is better for reverse speed/response using just two gates.
Also recommend to add a small buzzer to remind you of reverse positioning.
Regards
UfopoliticsLast edited by Ufopolitics; 04-28-2014, 04:30 PM.
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Rotary Switch
Originally posted by iankoglin View PostG'day UFO
Thanks my friend for your time and effort
The only ones I could find are these you can have up to 12 switches on one rotary shaft max stated amps is 25
Rotary Switch | UL listed | up to 12 circuits | high current capacity | www.e-switch.com
http://www.e-switch.com/Portals/0/Series_Pdf/4RH.pdf
I appreciate your help friend
Kogs @ Work still
Hello My Dear Friend Kogs,
That switch looks fine...and the ratings are ok...I believe the silver contacts will hold...but only one problem, I downloaded the pdf on it "4RH" and it does not have the way it joins connections/terminals electrically...and it comes in three "flavors"...4, 8 and 12 contacts... you will need the 12 contacts...unless you use a roller microswitch to turn on new reverse Solenoid (S2) Coil then you could use just the Eight Type
MOTOR CONNECTION:
Going by my main Diagram, you will need to derive from Motor P1 and P15 (or whatever Inputs set apart by 180º) their negative ends going to switch (2 black wires) as well as the Two Switching Gears SW1 and SW2 (2 more Black wires)...
TOTAL=4 wires
BATTERY BANK (Source):
The best way I found to handle Positive disconnection and sourcing Half or Lower Voltage to Motor is through a Secondary Solenoid (S2)...It MUST HAVE FOUR HV PINS, Two Normally On (NO) and Two Normally Closed (NC)...PLUS the Two Low Voltage Actuator Coil.
It will reduce the number of Positive to Rotary to Only Two.
It could be a simple Relay as long as it could handle those Currents(I) and Voltages(V)...and Actuator Coil rated for full Battery Bank
TOTAL= Two (2) Heavy Gauge Wires plus Two(2) Low Voltage wires=4
SWITCH OUTPUT:
FORWARD: You will need to RESTORE back the Four wires from P1,P15 : NEGATIVE back to their RUN lines as previous Diagram...and Positive back to Full 36V Source, which Solenoid (S2) will do automatically when it is disconnected through its NC Contacts (Normally Closed).
Below is the drawing for FORWARD ON shown Connections at Rotary Switch:
[IMG][/IMG]
Note that FORWARD ON...we leave open MUST of the Rotary Switch terminals...ONLY Restoring back P1 and P2 to its position on older drawing...meaning back to SW1(P1) and SW2(P15) for Speed Gears 1 and 2 respectively.
And here is the REVERSE MODE ON Internal Connections at Rotary Switch:
[IMG][/IMG]
So, You will need an extra Solenoid (S2) rated about same spec's as first one, including a Diode (D7) at Coil. This Solenoid or Relay will disconnect P1,P15 from direct Positive at Full Bank and use just 24V to send to P1,P15 Negative Inputs.
You will also need to add a Diode (D8) in order to prevent reverse spikes from other two Gates to reach Controller and Battery Bank Positive when Reverse is ON and running.
Like I said before, pins 6-7 on Rotary Switch, could be replaced by a Roller Micro Switch (turning ON by Reverse Lever) then use just an Eight Pin Rotary Switch.
It is important to realize that P1 and P15 Negative wires MUST NOT be joint externally, but ONLY MOMENTARILY Through Internal Rotary part...as they need to be Independently run at Forward stage to their respective SW1 and SW2 Gear Switching.
Make sure this Rotary Switch terminals are FULLY INSULATED in exterior side...as well as no close bare wires nor other terminals are near to it.
Any questions let me know Kogs...but I may keep editing this post later on in red below.
Kind Regards Friend
Ufopolitics
EDIT1: Kogs, it is VERY IMPORTANT that SW3 and SW4 MUST BE SET AT NEUTRAL POSITION DURING REVERSE ON since they will be HOT during Reverse switching.
EDIT2:I just realized that D8 will do absolutely nothing about Negative Spikes coming out from Gates P8, P22...when reversing...My main concern is basically the Controller protection.
EDIT 3: So, the way to solve both possible damages or accidents above...I believe a Third Solenoid identical to S2 should be added BETWEEN the other Two Gates (P8,P22) Positive and Source/Battery Positive on NC PINS ONLY...So NO PINS on that Solenoid 3 will not be connected at all...this S3 Activating Coil will run/connect parallel to S2 Actuator Coil...so when reverse is set...Gate P8 and P22 will be ALSO Disconnected from Batt Positive.
This way, no matter if SW 3 and SW 4 are switched ON ...nothing will happen.
Also, there will NOT BE ANY Reverse Spikes running back to Battery nor Controller when Reverse is set On, since Gates will be disconnected or OPEN.Last edited by Ufopolitics; 04-27-2014, 08:16 PM.
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Can't see it
I can't see it. I tried yesterday and again today. I thought it might have something to do with linux so I will try later when my wife gets off her windows machine.
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Originally posted by iankoglin View Post
Hey Kogs, I was able to view them straight away no probs.
Thanks for your hard work, that motor sounds great.
Regards Cornboy.
PS. Tassie Brrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
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