My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[iankoglin]

G'day All
does anyone have difficulty in loading the video's in my last Post
I find that it takes a loooong time to load videos from Photo bucket
please let me know
it took me all day yesterday to load them into Photo Bucket
Kindest Regards

Kogs in a quandry

[iankoglin]

Kogs Progress

G'day All
I have finished doing a few video's on running my 1000w asymmetrically modified motor that I am going to put into Nessie
The first video's are using the UFO controller I used for my first UFO project the one lighting up the 5 CFL bulbs the only difference it uses the Oscillator is modified to use a 5k Ohm pot rather than the larger one I used in that setup.
I am displaying 2 videos showing first what the output is and what happens when under a real load then showing how the motor performs when the Generated power is fed back into the motor to assist in its running the video's and Pics are Here

Using The UFO Controller Photos by Kogs1 | Photobucket

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZN0cjrU3hJI

Next I show the same again only these Pics and video's are the same motor being run by John Stone's Monster driver that I have slightly modified as I found when I was soldering the heavy wire to the Mosfet legs was just too hard and also I turned some of the components including one Mosfet around so as to have one heat-sink attached to the both Mosfets instead of 2 heat-sinks
The Pics and video's are here

Using One John Stone Monster Photos by Kogs1 | Photobucket

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrsENA6ytbw

Kindest Regards to all


Kogs always trying Hard

[sampojo]

Cornman, hang tough

Sorry to hear this, Bruce. I hope your situation gets better soon. Stay in touch.

[Cornboy 555]

Kogs will get it done.

Hello UFO, and all, due to my personal circumstances, it will be near impossible to finish my MAG3 build any time soon.

This is very disappointing to me and possibly to some of you as well, so I have approached our Friend Kogs, to finish the build for us.

I will be shipping the whole Kit and Kaboodle to him, including 6 x JS monsters with components to populate them.

I feel certain that KOGS will do this motor Justice, as he has had a lot of experience with motor winding, and of course he will have our support as well.

A big Thanks to you UFO, for all you have helped me understand, and to KOGS for agreeing to finish the MAG3.

Warm Regards Everybody, Cornboy.

[iankoglin]

Hello Kogs,


The F & R Switch (or FNR) best choice would be the Club Car type...NOT the EZ GO...Only problem we have is that Symmetric Type Motors have only one Input...we have Four.

Club Car Forward and Reverse Switch 1984 05 DS 36 Volt Resistor Golf Cart | eBay

Rotary Contacts come with a "bridge" type COPPER PLATE like below:

[IMG][/IMG]

You must remove it, in order to use ALL FOUR INDEPENDENT CONTACTS.

The Micro Switches are for Reverse Buzzer and to activate Solenoid low voltage coil at Reverse set.

Here is a Diagram of Positions plus Internal Connections (without Bridges)

[IMG][/IMG]

The Rotary contacts A and B are isolated from each others, they are Copper Bolts like heads with springs for pressure at time of contact...they have thread and nuts to connect cables and they will rotate freely also, within its housing.

The Bridge Plates that you would remove are located at the Steady Plate Four Contacts.So your Total contacts would be SIX(6) Contacts...Two at Rotary side and Four at base plate.

Still figuring out best way to install this switch to Nessie...So...don't buy it yet!!...


Regards


Ufopolitics

G'day UFO
Thanks my friend for your time and effort
The only ones I could find are these you can have up to 12 switches on one rotary shaft max stated amps is 25
Rotary Switch | UL listed | up to 12 circuits | high current capacity | www.e-switch.com

http://www.e-switch.com/Portals/0/Series_Pdf/4RH.pdf

I appreciate your help friend

Kogs @ Work still

[Cornboy 555]

Hey Kogs, please check your PM's.

Regards Everybody, Cornboy.

[Ufopolitics]

F & R Switch...

G'day UFO
I have almost all the electronic parts to complete Nessie's Heart
I am about to assemble this circuit for Nessie and really would like to be able to switch the motor in reverse
What is required to switch the motor and Cap bank could I use a rotary say an 8 Pole double throw and where should I place it I imagine it should be at the Motor before the DPDT 50 amp toggles.

I am in the process of testing the 1000w motor I will make a video both with a copy of the original 6 Mosfet circuit like I have in the lighting of the 5 CFL bulbs and then another one with JS. Monster

when I finish Nessie and you are satisfied with the all North P56 I will wire one I have here,
Kindest Regards My Friend


Kogs Nessie is a Lady in Waiting

Hello Kogs,


The F & R Switch (or FNR) best choice would be the Club Car type...NOT the EZ GO...Only problem we have is that Symmetric Type Motors have only one Input...we have Four.

Club Car Forward and Reverse Switch 1984 05 DS 36 Volt Resistor Golf Cart | eBay

Rotary Contacts come with a "bridge" type COPPER PLATE like below:

[IMG][/IMG]

You must remove it, in order to use ALL FOUR INDEPENDENT CONTACTS.

The Micro Switches are for Reverse Buzzer and to activate Solenoid low voltage coil at Reverse set.

Here is a Diagram of Positions plus Internal Connections (without Bridges)

[IMG][/IMG]

The Rotary contacts A and B are isolated from each others, they are Copper Bolts like heads with springs for pressure at time of contact...they have thread and nuts to connect cables and they will rotate freely also, within its housing.

The Bridge Plates that you would remove are located at the Steady Plate Four Contacts.So your Total contacts would be SIX(6) Contacts...Two at Rotary side and Four at base plate.

Still figuring out best way to install this switch to Nessie...So...don't buy it yet!!...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[sampojo]

GM window regulator conversion to unipolar progress

Centering up bearing housings almost done, All by trial and error, by eye. Shocked, it is almost turning freely. Trimmed some extraneous plastic nodes on the brush harness, use the gasket on housing and I hope he commutators clear the harness. Brush retainers working but I have to develop a fastening method for the harness to the endplates now also. If all goes well winding this weekend?

update: catching in one spot, brushes too tight.

[Ufopolitics]

Reversing Nessie...

G'day UFO
I have almost all the electronic parts to complete Nessie's Heart
I am about to assemble this circuit for Nessie and really would like to be able to switch the motor in reverse
What is required to switch the motor and Cap bank could I use a rotary say an 8 Pole double throw and where should I place it I imagine it should be at the Motor before the DPDT 50 amp toggles.

I am in the process of testing the 1000w motor I will make a video both with a copy of the original 6 Mosfet circuit like I have in the lighting of the 5 CFL bulbs and then another one with JS. Monster

when I finish Nessie and you are satisfied with the all North P56 I will wire one I have here,
Kindest Regards My Friend


Kogs Nessie is a Lady in Waiting

Hello Kogs,

Ouch!...You should have told me this "reversal mode" operation before getting all this wiring...

The reverse shifting should be at least half of the source power...as per many EV Designs...

In our case related to Four Stator/Four Brush asymmetric machines...we just need Two Inputs to be reversed, preferably apart by 180º in order to have a balanced force.

Normally Reverse and Forward are just a Single mechanical heavy duty shifter, like the ones used in Golf Carts and small EV's. in order to separate forward and reverse to two different and apart at each extremes...having a Neutral/Park centered position.

It is required that you install a similar type of Master Switch, that would CANCEL all Forward MAIN CONTACT switching when reversing. However, you will need to use accelerator/controller to reverse slowly...

In conclusion, you must do a separate wiring for reversing passing through that Master switch for F&R...then direct cables would go to Motor and to controller reversing gates Input Polarity.

It will take me a while to show this Diagram...basically redoing the whole thing over...


Regards Kogs


Ufopolitics

[Midaztouch]

@midaztouch,

If the DC part of the generator output is blocked...and the AC or "impulse"/radiant electricity is balanced with the correct sized capacitor (to annul the inductive reactance with capacitive reactance..ie resonance!) then this type of energy can be inductively coupled via primary/secondary (tesla type coil)....like this....(i believe these motors to be the type of motor/generators used in his apparatus)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrqFQRh5I6Y
EDIT: This system is not balanced as well as it could have been...the electrolytic cap should not be used...output went up when I used mica caps instead....

When the secondary is connected to ground, this develops a way of storing energy in the form of resonance and the ground becomes an antenna...the whole system must vibrate at the same natural vibration of the motor as it is pulsed...the other end of the secondary must be capacitively coupled via electric field to any receiver...


From my experience I can say energy can only be transferred via 1 wire with low voltage input...

However, according to tesla himself, a large capacitive terminal (i mean huge, think of a tree root system as the grounding system vs branches/leaves as the ariel) on the secondary can annul the intercapacitance of the coil and when balanced correctly will produce electrical oscillations in the ground...(i have proved this also, however distance is limited with low voltage systems)

There seems to be a threshold here...you need a certain amount of voltage to really "punch through" and push current up into the large capacitive terminal.

So in short, if we use these motors as is, extensive research much be done to really balance the system if true wireless is to be obtained...I have proved it can be done with a single wire so far...and it seems there are little limits of how many other receivers can be attached...This is multiplication of energy via the physics of resonance...Check out the other yt videos I have for more information on how this "negative" energy can be multiplied. If we made a HV motor, then this system could really work wireless...check out teslas high frequency alternators...he used these to transmit power....

Hope this helps,

warrensk

Hey Warren!

I was hoping you would respond. I subscribed to your YouTube channel. You and your crew are working really hard at wireless energy. I really appreciate all the work that you all are doing. Your contribution is invaluable for the integration of Wireless Energy coupled to Asymmetric Motors. Thank you!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[warrensk]

Wireless Energy

@midaztouch,

If the DC part of the generator output is blocked...and the AC or "impulse"/radiant electricity is balanced with the correct sized capacitor (to annul the inductive reactance with capacitive reactance..ie resonance!) then this type of energy can be inductively coupled via primary/secondary (tesla type coil)....like this....(i believe these motors to be the type of motor/generators used in his apparatus)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrqFQRh5I6Y
EDIT: This system is not balanced as well as it could have been...the electrolytic cap should not be used...output went up when I used mica caps instead....

When the secondary is connected to ground, this develops a way of storing energy in the form of resonance and the ground becomes an antenna...the whole system must vibrate at the same natural vibration of the motor as it is pulsed...the other end of the secondary must be capacitively coupled via electric field to any receiver...


From my experience I can say energy can only be transferred via 1 wire with low voltage input...

However, according to tesla himself, a large capacitive terminal (i mean huge, think of a tree root system as the grounding system vs branches/leaves as the ariel) on the secondary can annul the intercapacitance of the coil and when balanced correctly will produce electrical oscillations in the ground...(i have proved this also, however distance is limited with low voltage systems)

There seems to be a threshold here...you need a certain amount of voltage to really "punch through" and push current up into the large capacitive terminal.

So in short, if we use these motors as is, extensive research much be done to really balance the system if true wireless is to be obtained...I have proved it can be done with a single wire so far...and it seems there are little limits of how many other receivers can be attached...This is multiplication of energy via the physics of resonance...Check out the other yt videos I have for more information on how this "negative" energy can be multiplied. If we made a HV motor, then this system could really work wireless...check out teslas high frequency alternators...he used these to transmit power....

Hope this helps,

warrensk

[iankoglin]

Nessie a Lady in Waiting

Hello Kogs!

Great...let's proceed...


Here is the Diagram Friend...

[IMG][/IMG]

The Cap Bank is like you have said, parallel to Batteries (understand this is NOT the Controller Cap Bank, but the Battery supply using Regen from our Asymmetric Machines Gates)...it should be rated according to your Battery Source size, always greater than, I would use -at least- a 100V Cap size bank, and I would go above the 1000 uF...say to 2200 uF or greater...could consult Sir John Stone on this to correct me if am wrong.

The Contactor or Solenoid COIL MUST BE RATED, exactly, to the Battery Bank size, the Diode D6 must be 200V/3A and the PRE-CHARGE Resistor must be 1K Ohm and 10 Watts Minimum. This is done to avoid huge dump on Controller Cap Bank/sensitive tronics...

So...the Gears would be:

First Gear ALL Switches 1,2,3 and 4 ON...turning them on in a fast sequence while depressing accelerator slowly to make a smooth take off...and not Ramping it up too abrupt. This Gear is JUST intended to brake Inertia...and SHOULD NOT BE ON FOR A LONG TIME!

Second Gear, turn off SW4 leaving ON SW 1,2,3 (I have the same Pair sequence as Imperial here, but in your case the Not 16 poles 20Poles 1000W

would be different, but results are the same...Four Gates)...So this would be your "passing gear".

Third Gear would be SW 1 and SW 2 ON...While SW3 and SW4 would be dumping to Cap Bank...Your Normal Cruising Gear after you have used Second to gain enough Speed Impulse.

Fourth Gear ( ONLY SW1 ON) could be used on down hills or flat straight line roads, after desired driving speed has been reached.

REMEMBER to ALWAYS DEPRESS Throttle when shifting Gears, then accelerate ONCE ENGAGED/ON...just like the "Play" between Clutch and Accelerator on a Manual/Stick Shift Vehicle...otherwise you could add damage to your commutator elements.




Kogs, remember to conduct a BENCH TEST first on this connections...or -at least- lifting Nessie's Driving Wheels OFF the GROUND (properly jacked up in stands) ...then take Nessie on a "stressful Run"...and check all temperature everywhere possible, mainly FET, and Motor Coils/Brushes.


Regards Friend, and any questions/doubts let me know.


Ufopolitics

G'day UFO
I have almost all the electronic parts to complete Nessie's Heart
I am about to assemble this circuit for Nessie and really would like to be able to switch the motor in reverse
What is required to switch the motor and Cap bank could I use a rotary say an 8 Pole double throw and where should I place it I imagine it should be at the Motor before the DPDT 50 amp toggles.

I am in the process of testing the 1000w motor I will make a video both with a copy of the original 6 Mosfet circuit like I have in the lighting of the 5 CFL bulbs and then another one with JS. Monster

when I finish Nessie and you are satisfied with the all North P56 I will wire one I have here,
Kindest Regards My Friend


Kogs Nessie is a Lady in Waiting

[Midaztouch]

Hi Team

Yesterday I had an appointment at the Department of Energy. I got to speak to the top boss because he was the only one that spoke English. He's about 70yrs and I would call him a master of his field. We discussed our Asymmetric Motor design, Regenerative Acceleration and wireless energy transfer.

First of all he didn't know anything about asymmetric motors. He thinks that it's very interesting though.

Secondly, Japanese people don't believe in regenerative acceleration. They call it "Energy Recycling". They didn't have much success with energy recycling and it was abandoned decades ago. But asymmetric motors using the recycling principal was very interesting for him.

Third, we talked about pulsing the motor with the JS Quad Monster to create wireless energy. I think it could be done but he said its not possible. (Does anyone have any thoughts about wireless energy?)

He said a lot of the ideas were interesting and he will contact a professor friend, that he used to work with.

Coincidently, yesterday was Earth Day

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[sampojo]

GM window regulator unipolar progress

Motor is coming together:




Now for more hard stuff. Of course it is binding. Cant get it together without brush retainers, one side is done, as you may notice in the pics. Screwed up and used a case hardened washer on the last one that forms the bearing seat. Gotta go thru it for the retainers and every time I use a hack saw on them I throw it away. Gotta center the bearings, that will take forever. (but not as long as boring out my quad pentagon motor body at least, of these components.) I am afraid my comms sit to far into the brush holder and may be binding there too. Hopefully washer spacers between the motor and endplates will do the trick. In other words winding soon?

Building electric motors ain't easy.

[Midaztouch]

@Team

Could we use two ultra capacitors? The first One as a buffer from the power supply to the motor. The second for collecting energy from the generator action. Then connect second capacitor to the first capacitor.

Since there is around one amp from the rs 5 pole's generator action. Could you please try this set up with the 5 pole rs motor, two capacitors, a regular 9volt battery and mechanical load; plane propeller

If you have some free time or want something to try. It could be interesting

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz