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  • iankoglin
    replied
    Originally posted by Ufopolitics View Post
    Hey Machine,

    Please post videos of that little build when done!

    On the Dual Rotor Imperial, we do not need such sophisticated bridge design like I originally posted...

    [IMG][/IMG]

    After designing the Three Pole Dual...I realized just another set of laminates without the poles would do...in order to simplify design plus reduce co$t$.

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    This way much easier to cut on waterjet...we could use long fine bolts/nuts at common areas to Inner-Outer rotor to secure the whole assembly.


    Regards


    Ufopolitics
    G'day UFO
    I like the way you have thought out the new build
    I've been pondering over your details above and I think when you draw these inner armature laminations and outer case made of laminations and the bridge laminations in fact all of the laminated sections for production it might be a good idea to place some say 3 or 5mm bolt/rod holes so that the laminations can be aligned when assembled

    Kindest Regards

    Kogs sometimes thinks a bit too hard

    Leave a comment:


  • ajaya999
    replied
    Monster Pulser

    @Hi Sam,

    Thanks for the support and help.

    I'm also seriously thinking to get it done here with any local service provider.

    One month - though I understand it requires - is some thing unbearable waiting time for me. I kept a target to finish this before 7th Feb ( a deadline I declared to my son to run UFO Machine).

    I built a few small joule thief models and lasersaber's jouleringer. That's all.

    Let me try my luck Sam. Many thanks for the support.

    @Hi Kogs,

    Good Video. . Thanks for sharing

    Regards and Namaste

    Kumar
    Last edited by ajaya999; 01-31-2014, 10:16 AM. Reason: added text

    Leave a comment:


  • iankoglin
    replied
    Kogs update

    G'day UFO and Team

    I have made a video it is here

    Kogs First Imperial Armature Test - YouTube

    I now have to dismantle the 4 motors Pack securely and send them 100klms to be varnished then they go on to the other side of Melbourne 500klms to be balanced then back to me to assemble and test some more
    The cost
    Varnish the 4 motors $20 each =$80

    Balancing the 4 motors 2 My Motors $105 each the 1000w Zy motor $120 and the Imperial beast $140 total= $475
    All the deliveries $100
    The Sum Total = $655
    My Camera assistant/Test Driver when she saw the video she could not stop laughing when I asked her why she said she could hear herself chewing Gum

    Kindest regards To you all

    Kogs getting excited and broke

    Leave a comment:


  • sampojo
    replied
    Re: Kumar's electronics

    Hi Kumar, Have you ever assembled any electronics projects? If so you just need to order components and you will need a PCB board. We have a manufacturer that builds and ships. For a quad stator you would need a minimum of 4 boards. Links to monster driver board are at my profile of oshpark.com, provided in post 2610 on the my-motors thread. It may take month to build and ship to India. Parts lists in John Stone's ref doc.

    Have fun and get you son to help!

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Lamination's oil...

    Originally posted by machinealive View Post
    Yeah, I am hoping to reduce eddy losses to min, keep heat down to min. I thought that all laminations are sprayed, even the expensive electrical steel. I bought cheap steel, not the silicon electrical steel, which I thought should have an even thicker coat. I think they used paper or such once to insulate the laminations. Anyway, I'll give it a try. Can't hurt,like you said.

    Machine

    Machine,


    In the past they used oil in between laminations on expensive machines...same process they use on Transformers.


    Regards


    Ufopolitics

    Leave a comment:


  • machinealive
    replied
    Yeah, I am hoping to reduce eddy losses to min, keep heat down to min. I thought that all laminations are sprayed, even the expensive electrical steel. I bought cheap steel, not the silicon electrical steel, which I thought should have an even thicker coat. I think they used paper or such once to insulate the laminations. Anyway, I'll give it a try. Can't hurt,like you said.

    Machine

    Leave a comment:


  • ajaya999
    replied
    Electronics - All Greek and Latin

    Hi Friends,

    Got struck at driver circuit. Winding done(twice). Batteries ready. Arduino ( every time needs to visit google to check its spelling ) is now by my side. Tried to read, reread and reeeeread the monster pulser. Every time I am just reading the letters, words and sentences. Nothing is shrinking into the brain.

    My son scores about 98% in mathematics and he's always envious of my maths scores that I scored during my school, college and university days, always cent percent - except one or two instances where I got only 98%.

    Now he got a point.

    Looking into my great understanding skills of electronics, he started teasing me saying " Dad, your brain dropped into your knees. Vishwaroop (he calls UFOPOLITICS so) uncle's UFO is needed now to keep it back."

    Please help.

    I downloaded the adobe file on monster pulser circuit of Sir John Stone.

    In all those pages what I understood was only sentence. "Discussion on this can be read from post 1745 of 'my ...... of energeticforum'."

    Please guide.

    Regards

    Kumar

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Originally posted by machinealive View Post
    Hey UFO

    Have you ever insulated your laminations with a thin insulator before they were stacked and welded? I thought I may try that, unless you absolutely know, that it is a bad idea.

    Machine

    Have not done that Machine.
    But if you are going to weld them...the welding will conduct through plates...

    I do not see it as a bad idea...can not see advantages either, other than trying to eliminate more effectively the eddy currents right at coils core space...


    Take care


    Ufopolitics

    Leave a comment:


  • machinealive
    replied
    Hey UFO

    Have you ever insulated your laminations with a thin insulator before they were stacked and welded? I thought I may try that, unless you absolutely know, that it is a bad idea.

    Machine

    Leave a comment:


  • Ufopolitics
    replied
    Originally posted by machinealive View Post
    Nice motor kogs, looking good.

    UFO, or anyone, I was wondering about what to put on steel plates. I was going to spay a couple coats of insulation, then a coat of varnish, Dolph products. Before I cut some rings and things. What do you use UFO?

    Machine
    Yeah Machine...Kogs Motor looks impressive...so get ready for the "War of Machines"...

    What to put on steel plates?...steel plates for what application?

    I do not like to use any spray on insulation, unless it is a hand pre-mixed ratio hardener-resin-reducer...then sprayed with my specific guns...all spray cans insulation are BS when it comes to right drying time and heat sinking capacity.plus a very robust/rigid coating ...

    I like the epoxy insulation that you mix and roll on or brush on, without reducing it.

    If you are gonna cut the steel...I never insulate it first...but grind it, smooth it, sand it etc...then insulate the final piece when tested that it is fine...


    Regards


    Ufopolotics

    Leave a comment:


  • machinealive
    replied
    Nice motor kogs, looking good.

    UFO, or anyone, I was wondering about what to put on steel plates. I was going to spay a couple coats of insulation, then a coat of varnish, Dolph products. Before I cut some rings and things. What do you use UFO?

    Machine

    Leave a comment:


  • Midaztouch
    replied
    Kogs!

    to the UFO Imperial Club!


    The Club is growing!

    Keep it Clean and Green!

    Midaz

    Leave a comment:


  • sampojo
    replied
    Re: Kogs Imperial P56 Update post 6160

    Kogs, very professional. A work of art.

    Nice view of the commutator connections...

    Can you tell be if you did anything special to bind the wire in the commutator slots? Or just a tight fit and that is all you need? On my Baldor for production they stamped the slot hard to smash commutator down on the wire. I have one commutator I have dremmeled out the slots but I don't think they are as deep and square as a new pristine commutator. And now I am going to put the wire pieces back and use a connector. DOH! So I was thinking about trying to stamp the slots again with the wired connector in place with a flat-nosed punch...

    I was trying to use a butane micro-torch on the wire connectors with brazing material. While it could melt the brazing rod nicely, it can't seem to melt the rod onto the wire attached to the big heat sink commutator. So I wll be moving up to my acetylene torch now, on as low a flame as poss. methinks...

    Leave a comment:


  • prochiro
    replied
    Kogs
    Congratulations on the rotor build. It looks beautiful.

    For others following this, you will notice that Kogs took his time and asked many questions. Even after building a number of other motors, this is a big job. I also feel that what UFO has stated about starting with a small motor is important for most to do first. Making a mistake on an imperial is both costly and time consuming.
    I am proud of you all.
    Dana

    Leave a comment:


  • ajaya999
    replied
    Great Job

    Hi Kogs,

    Great Job. A model for the followers like me. Eager to see its run. I'll be ready with mine ( 1 hp 15-pole) by tomorrow. Now circuit is in pending. Batteries yet to be collected. Couldn't make it today. Winding job took away the whole day. Though the band is applied, fingers swelled How are your fingers after 40 hours of winding job

    Regards and Namaste

    Kumar

    Leave a comment:

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