My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

@ Midas
34 hrs,...hard to image people willing to pay for the amount of time and work to build. But, now that people will understand the work involved,...if anyone is actually willing to pay for my work,... I will build motors, only imperials, not balanced or vacuum sealed. That could be done but extra. I would have to get $2000.00 , plus your shipping from my biz.

Now I have two, here now, so I could sell one and since it was done at a prototype level, still works great, fabulous in fact, I would knock $500.00 off.

Hope things are going well UFO, everyone.

Machine

Hello Machine,

Yes, I believe Midaz is right...too cheap man!...

I thought you were going to build one of the Imperials as a Dual Rotor System?!

[IMG][/IMG]

Ok, I propose a deal...I will make ALL the CAD drawings for Outer Rotor Laminates and the Bridge Piece...plus the Four Stators "H" Frame to be wound instead of permanent magnets (it would run also on AC this way, a "Universal Asymmetric Motor" )...then you can get them Waterjet cut and make me a Set for my second Imperial...I will pay the freight to me...sounds like a fair deal?

I want Us to make this Imperial Dual Rotor System...pulsing four stators and Gates with the Monster Pulsers respectively in the same sequence I have presented here...with off times (Gate1/S1, G2/S2, G3/S3, G4/S4)...Unfortunately, at this time I do not have the funds to make it happen all from scratch.

I am very sure this would be a VERY Strong Machine and Combination of Controlling System my Friend.

Then you could try running your Generator(s) with this New Asymmetry...and then later on you could mount it on your future Motorcycle and get 200 plus MPH...


Regards


Ufopolitcs

[Ufopolitics]

Double Post, delete one...

G'day UFO
The AWG is #22 according to this chart I have had for years
The chart is here

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...DataChart3.jpg

I will wind one with the Bifilar I want to get this wound and send the last 4 off to be varnished and balanced and please should I solder over the commutator hooks on the smaller motors and the P56 forced into grooves

I realise that the Ohms is continually changing that is one reason why I like to measure when it is cool.

With regard to the AWG18 0.1mm wire I might try again to wind the full half Pole into the P56 Like I mention as I really did wind those turns into the Slots and I will again ascertain the amount whether I can fit all the poles on each distance between the comm's and the laminations is 18.5mm

I measured the wire the same way for the last 3 motors the 250w 20 pole and the 150w 16 pole MY motors look like here These were wound with .67mm wire but they got Hot so I rewound with I think 20? wind with .6mm wire and they look the same then again I might not be able to fit the wire into the groove in the comm these motors are here

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0105.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0099.jpg

If The AWG18 wire will not wind I think I would have the sane trouble with the AWG 22 as I calculated the Winds the same way

I really appreciate all that you teach me. Some people learn from others experience and some have to learn from their own mistakes.
I am usually the latter and that is why I sometimes take so long to do something and feel like

Eventually I get there

Thank you for your input and interest I really appreciate what I am learning from you

Kindest Regards to you my friend


Kogs wanting to get it right

Hello Kogs,


You have a Double Post here , please delete one, then I will delete this


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Imperial Winding

G'day UFO
The AWG is #22 according to this chart I have had for years
The chart is here

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...DataChart3.jpg

I will wind one with the Bifilar I want to get this wound and send the last 4 off to be varnished and balanced and please should I solder over the commutator hooks on the smaller motors and the P56 forced into grooves

I realise that the Ohms is continually changing that is one reason why I like to measure when it is cool.

With regard to the AWG18 0.1mm wire I might try again to wind the full half Pole into the P56 Like I mention as I really did wind those turns into the Slots and I will again ascertain the amount whether I can fit all the poles on each distance between the comm's and the laminations is 18.5mm

I measured the wire the same way for the last 3 motors the 250w 20 pole and the 150w 16 pole MY motors look like here These were wound with .67mm wire but they got Hot so I rewound with I think 20? wind with .6mm wire and they look the same then again I might not be able to fit the wire into the groove in the comm these motors are here

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0105.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0099.jpg

If The AWG18 wire will not wind I think I would have the sane trouble with the AWG 22 as I calculated the Winds the same way

I really appreciate all that you teach me. Some people learn from others experience and some have to learn from their own mistakes.
I am usually the latter and that is why I sometimes take so long to do something and feel like

Eventually I get there

Thank you for your input and interest I really appreciate what I am learning from you

Kindest Regards to you my friend


Kogs wanting to get it right

Hey Kogs,

I recommend to go over again my first Asymmetrical Winding Video...

Asymmetrical Winding Part 1 - YouTube

It is important to see how I could NOT wind this Motor with 16 awg...(That was the reason why I left that footage on video) as I explain why in terms of space and calculations of how many future coils must run through same slot...then I start with the 18 awg.

If you are going to use the Bifilar 22 awg ...the purpose is that you could fit way MUCH more turns than with the single 18 awg, in order to generate a stronger magnetic field...BUT, if it would end up in the same or around same number of turns, then, it is not worth to do it with 22 awg...in previous post you mentioned you could go 29 T per Coil, or 56 in Pair.

You really must learn to see (in the future) how the final Pairs (P26,27,28) would fit, in your mind, when just doing P1...If you would have enough room to hold them tight in rotor slots, and still be able to run the retaining hedges. I believe with your experience so far...you could do it my friend...


Kind Regards


Ufopolitics

[Cornboy 555]

G'day UFO and Team
A few weeks ago I saw an advert regarding a flatpack it was called the Ikea Tabby it is a OSvehicle that can be assembled in 1 hour I the cost is $6000
I made an inquiry for the OS Plans
A copy of the request is here
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Ian Koglin <iankoglin@yahoo.com>
Date: 2014/1/14
Subject: CAD Request from Ian Koglin - self
To: info@osvehicle.com

From: Ian Koglin <iankoglin@yahoo.com>

Company: self

Applications:

I am my self involved in R&D of asymmetric electric motors and would like to fit one into a car to show the benefit of these motors and I like the idea of the Tabby as it appears to be light and therefore it allows me to fit my own body.design
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Today I received this reply--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dear Mr. Ian Koglin,

We can offer you Tabby without electric motor, may be in future we could cooperate in electric motor.

regards.

Silvia Xiao

Osvehicle Limited

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The details about this car can be found here
OSVehicle - Open Source Vehicle | TABBY

One option for me
To buy a flatpack OSVehicle and fitting one P56 motor if that is not strong enough then fit 2 P56 motors end on end of course one would have to be wound in reverse so they would match each other.

Second option to buy a second hand motor vehicle and alter it to fit the motor in

Kindest regards

Kogs Just thinking ahead (would need my test drivers approval first)

Hey Kogs, option #2, would be the best way, Australia has some of the most stringent ADR rules in the world, and i am sure the Tabby wouldn't meet those rules.

Of course if you just want to use it on private property, and not on public roads, it would be fine.

Converting existing roadworthy vehicles to Electric is the way to go, you can pick up small older cars for peanuts now, especially if they have a motor problem.

When the time comes we need to use a vehicle that everyone can acess cheaply to follow us.

Regards Cornboy.

[iankoglin]

G'day UFO and Team
A few weeks ago I saw an advert regarding a flatpack it was called the Ikea Tabby it is a OSvehicle that can be assembled in 1 hour I the cost is $6000
I made an inquiry for the OS Plans
A copy of the request is here
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Ian Koglin <iankoglin@yahoo.com>
Date: 2014/1/14
Subject: CAD Request from Ian Koglin - self
To: info@osvehicle.com

From: Ian Koglin <iankoglin@yahoo.com>

Company: self

Applications:

I am my self involved in R&D of asymmetric electric motors and would like to fit one into a car to show the benefit of these motors and I like the idea of the Tabby as it appears to be light and therefore it allows me to fit my own body.design
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Today I received this reply--
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dear Mr. Ian Koglin,

We can offer you Tabby without electric motor, may be in future we could cooperate in electric motor.

regards.

Silvia Xiao

Osvehicle Limited

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The details about this car can be found here
OSVehicle - Open Source Vehicle | TABBY

One option for me
To buy a flatpack OSVehicle and fitting one P56 motor if that is not strong enough then fit 2 P56 motors end on end of course one would have to be wound in reverse so they would match each other.

Second option to buy a second hand motor vehicle and alter it to fit the motor in

Kindest regards

Kogs Just thinking ahead (would need my test drivers approval first)

[iankoglin]

G'day UFO
The AWG is #22 according to this chart I have had for years
The chart is here

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...DataChart3.jpg

I will wind one with the Bifilar I want to get this wound and send the last 4 off to be varnished and balanced and please should I solder over the commutator hooks on the smaller motors and the P56 forced into grooves

I realise that the Ohms is continually changing that is one reason why I like to measure when it is cool.

With regard to the AWG18 0.1mm wire I might try again to wind the full half Pole into the P56 Like I mention as I really did wind those turns into the Slots and I will again ascertain the amount whether I can fit all the poles on each distance between the comm's and the laminations is 18.5mm

I measured the wire the same way for the last 3 motors the 250w 20 pole and the 150w 16 pole MY motors look like here These were wound with .67mm wire but they got Hot so I rewound with I think 20? wind with .6mm wire and they look the same then again I might not be able to fit the wire into the groove in the comm these motors are here

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0105.jpg

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0099.jpg

If The AWG18 wire will not wind I think I would have the sane trouble with the AWG 22 as I calculated the Winds the same way

I really appreciate all that you teach me. Some people learn from others experience and some have to learn from their own mistakes.
I am usually the latter and that is why I sometimes take so long to do something and feel like

Eventually I get there

Thank you for your input and interest I really appreciate what I am learning from you

Kindest Regards to you my friend


Kogs wanting to get it right

[Zara]

Thanks

I will look into that UFO politics... That sounds a lot better then how I'm doing it now.

[Zara]

Cap Side

This is a picture of the side of the cap of the motor.

[Ufopolitics]

Welcome Zara!

Asymmetric 10 Pole... This is the first picture more to come. Still figuring out the UI on this forum.

Hello and Zara!!

[IMG][/IMG]

Wow!!...That is a very nice looking Machine Zara!

Zara, I recommend to open a free account at photobucket.com and upload pic's there, since space on this Forum Server is limited, plus outside viewers (not logged in) could not see them.

Then on this UI Editor choose IMG at the little yellow square icon and add link from Image URL from Photobucket at the new small window.

Beautiful Machine!!


Regards and Thanks!


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

I agree Kogs...

G'day UFO and Team
When winding one full half pole for the P56 armature.
I found that just measuring the ohms with a DMM set to Ohms it would only display to one decimal digit and this is not really good enough so I decided to Set my Dick Smith Regulated power supply to 2volts @ one Amp and using my DMM which reads volts to 3 decimal digits which is equal to the Ohms

I have my drop box here Of the circuit( to practice with)

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/aaelhhwxbuexoyd/UMfrcixNL3
I find Photo Bucket easier to use



The 2 samples of wiring of one full half pole is enough for wiring 2 poles and so each should be divided by 2


Using the circuit above you do not have to worry about the resistance of any wires after setting the Volts to what ever I set to 2 volts as I do not want to overheat my coils and the current to one Amp then applying the one amp current across the coil I read the Volts across the coil and this measurement is the Ohms to 3 decimal digits and accordingly to Ohms Law
The 2 samples of wiring of one full half pole is enough for wiring 2 poles and so should be divided by 2

The Bifilar .6mm diam.. (I unwound the wire doubled it and measured it)
Length is 37.7m the turns =232 total for 2 poles means 29 turns per Half pole.
Ohms calculated before was 1.2 now using the above method 1.132
so divide this by 2 = 0.566 Ohms per pole

The single wire 1 mm diam.
Before I said I got 68 turns but when I counted them when unwinding I actually got 73 turns on
Length is 23.5 m the turns=73 total for 2 poles means 18 turns per half pole
Ohms calculated before was 0.5 Ohms now using the above method )0.514 so divide this by 2 = 0.257 Ohms per pole
(if I wind with less turns the Ohms will be even less)

So the difference
Bifilar .6mm = 0.566 per pole 29turns per Half pole
Single 1mm = 0.257 per pole 18 turns per half pole

To me it seems the right option to go for the 0.6mm
I would have to try winding the 1mm again it was difficult but I did get the 18 turns
I think I Should go for the Bifilar it will be more work to measure out the wire and then spooling the 2 together then winding the 2 together


Kogs Trying hard to get it right the first time

Hello Kogs,


I agree with you that it would be best to try with Bifilar at 0.6 mm...is that approx 23 awg?

What I see great, but at same time it worries me is that you've said that 18 Turns on 18 awg (1.0 mm) will fit perfectly...

My friend, I have tried like all can see on my Imperial winding videos...and I could only wrap 13-14 Turns per Half Pair...So, you must realize the sectional pattern each coil takes...and add all other Coils that must pass by same gap.

Anyways, it would be very interesting to see that Imperial with a Bifilar winding, and still having a good resistance.

On a second note Kogs...according to my experience, you could measure resistance with wires in a spool, or based on length...then wind them in the Motor steel core...and resistance would be different...

Same way that when coils get over room temperature...or at running hot temp, resistance would increase.


Warm Regards Friend


Ufopolitics

[Zara]

Asymmetric 10 Pole

Asymmetric 10 Pole... This is the first picture more to come. Still figuring out the UI on this forum.

[iankoglin]

Kogs Correct Ohms measurments

G'day UFO and Team
When winding one full half pole for the P56 armature.
I found that just measuring the ohms with a DMM set to Ohms it would only display to one decimal digit and this is not really good enough so I decided to Set my Dick Smith Regulated power supply to 2volts @ one Amp and using my DMM which reads volts to 3 decimal digits which is equal to the Ohms

I have my drop box here Of the circuit( to practice with)

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/aaelhhwxbuexoyd/UMfrcixNL3
I find Photo Bucket easier to use



The 2 samples of wiring of one full half pole is enough for wiring 2 poles and so each should be divided by 2


Using the circuit above you do not have to worry about the resistance of any wires after setting the Volts to what ever I set to 2 volts as I do not want to overheat my coils and the current to one Amp then applying the one amp current across the coil I read the Volts across the coil and this measurement is the Ohms to 3 decimal digits and accordingly to Ohms Law
The 2 samples of wiring of one full half pole is enough for wiring 2 poles and so should be divided by 2

The Bifilar .6mm diam.. (I unwound the wire doubled it and measured it)
Length is 37.7m the turns =232 total for 2 poles means 29 turns per Half pole.
Ohms calculated before was 1.2 now using the above method 1.132
so divide this by 2 = 0.566 Ohms per pole

The single wire 1 mm diam.
Before I said I got 68 turns but when I counted them when unwinding I actually got 73 turns on
Length is 23.5 m the turns=73 total for 2 poles means 18 turns per half pole
Ohms calculated before was 0.5 Ohms now using the above method )0.514 so divide this by 2 = 0.257 Ohms per pole
(if I wind with less turns the Ohms will be even less)

So the difference
Bifilar .6mm = 0.566 per pole 29turns per Half pole
Single 1mm = 0.257 per pole 18 turns per half pole

To me it seems the right option to go for the 0.6mm
I would have to try winding the 1mm again it was difficult but I did get the 18 turns
I think I Should go for the Bifilar it will be more work to measure out the wire and then spooling the 2 together then winding the 2 together


Kogs Trying hard to get it right the first time

[Cornboy 555]

New member... but not new to Asymmetric. I'll be posting images of what I have been working on for the last couple of months.

Z

Thanks Zara, can't wait.

Regards, Cornboy.

[Zara]

New member... but not new to Asymmetric.

New member... but not new to Asymmetric. I'll be posting images of what I have been working on for the last couple of months.

Z

[Midaztouch]

@ Midas
34 hrs,...hard to image people willing to pay for the amount of time and work to build. But, now that people will understand the work involved,...if anyone is actually willing to pay for my work,... I will build motors, only imperials, not balanced or vacuum sealed. That could be done but extra. I would have to get $2000.00 , plus your shipping from my biz.

Now I have two, here now, so I could sell one and since it was done at a prototype level, still works great, fabulous in fact, I would knock $500.00 off.

Hope things are going well UFO, everyone.

Machine

I thought a lot higher than $2000! Your used motor is the second UFO motor made! Everyone, who reads this thread, knows that your price is really cheap! You should negotiate a high price for that motor.... And any other UFO motor made! They are a handmade speciality! Super rare!

Keep it Clean and Green!
Midaz


Midaz