My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[JohnStone]

....Just a couple tips on those motors....if they are the same as the MY1016 which I am using........

Thanks a lot for the hints. Can't wait getting the motor and looking inside.

[JohnStone]

.... Also, if it gets too tight in the case, you can always grind 1/16 off the end of the commutator, then use a razor blade to clear out the space between sections and make sure there is no connection. I have done that on other builds. I have cut one of those commutators in half with a hack saw and used both halves....

Oh yes you are right - good idea! Thanks
I prefer to buy a motor below 1000W being shorter so I can mix parts.

@ALL:
I published my first lab report regarding static torque measuremnts. see. It is the followup from the replication report see I published recently.

Now I prepare to take first power checks and I prepare to measure torque while motor running as well.

[JJUK]

SkyDrive

Thks Dana
As soon I´ll finish it I will post it here, I´ll like to know the answer of your PM to JJUK & Anoop so you may coordinate the whole thing.
cheers
Alvaro

Hi Alvaro,

If you don't want to open a SkyDrive account then please do send the files to me and I'll share them out.

JJUK

[interdesign21]

Hi Alvaro,

If you don't want to open a SkyDrive account then please do send the files to me and I'll share them out.

JJUK

Thanks JJUK
I will send it to you asap,and I also will post it here. nevertheless, what I was suggesting or asking if there is a way to have kind of an general index of the thread info, as I´m working only in the winding rotor´s geometry from 3 up to 22 poles, so it will be a partial info.
cheers
Alvaro

[l2-ok]

[QUOTE=Ufopolitics;201571]Hello to All!

I love how we are getting there so fast in replications...

"The Season of the Witch 2012"...

@Woopy: I will post later on some graphics on how to adjust your little nice motor to start "right away"...it has to be set at proper "Timming" just like we do with the Stinking and Greasy Dirty Gas Engines...by adjusting Distributor Shaft...well, that was for old engines though...now they adjust electronically...


Oh!, I have a great present here for you all to have lots of fun with...Well "presents for some...and kind of "Head Aches" for some Classic Symmetrical Physics "Experts"...



Hello UFO.
I was made tree pole motor by this scheme from two Jonson.
But if i put 3.3 volt on gen i have 2.6 volt, put 7 volt on output 6.5 volt, input 14 volt on output 10.5 volt... Its normal for 3-pole motor the output ever less then input or maybe something wrong on my side? like i need add some turns in the coil, now i have 21.5 turns.
Thanks for you share!

[prochiro]

Hello I2-OK


UFO is busy for a while and will respond in time. We will try to help you until then. Click the address below to see if you have measured correctly this way.

http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/...ISTHEWITCH.jpg
What is the Ohms of your coils from brush to brush. Are you pulsing or using power supply?
Dana

[interdesign21]

Hello UFO.
I was made tree pole motor by this scheme from two Jonson.
But if i put 3.3 volt on gen i have 2.6 volt, put 7 volt on output 6.5 volt, input 14 volt on output 10.5 volt... Its normal for 3-pole motor the output ever less then input or maybe something wrong on my side? like i need add some turns in the coil, now i have 21.5 turns.
Thanks for you share![/QUOTE]

hello 12-OK
Do you mean this ?

INPUT-----------OUTPUT
3.3V.................. 2.6
7 V .................. 6.5
14 V ................. 10.5

Remember that nobody said here that you get more voltage out than in. (and neither wats)
Consider that a symetric just uses all the input wattage to give a torque in a more or less efficiency, and here you get not just a mere improvement in efficiency, but also the posibility to produce or let entering the radiant. So. . . we are all in the way of reducing losses.
cheers
Alvaro

[Michael John Nunnerley]

Hello UFO.
I was made tree pole motor by this scheme from two Jonson.
But if i put 3.3 volt on gen i have 2.6 volt, put 7 volt on output 6.5 volt, input 14 volt on output 10.5 volt... Its normal for 3-pole motor the output ever less then input or maybe something wrong on my side? like i need add some turns in the coil, now i have 21.5 turns.
Thanks for you share!

hello 12-OK
Do you mean this ?

INPUT-----------OUTPUT
3.3V.................. 2.6
7 V .................. 6.5
14 V ................. 10.5

Remember that nobody said here that you get more voltage out than in. (and neither wats)
Consider that a symetric just uses all the input wattage to give a torque in a more or less efficiency, and here you get not just a mere improvement in efficiency, but also the posibility to produce or let entering the radiant. So. . . we are all in the way of reducing losses.
cheers
Alvaro[/QUOTE]

@ 12-OK

If you use the link that Dana posted above you will see how to wire this to have more voltage. This is adding the input voltage to the output voltage and can be used to charge another battery which in time can be exchanged with the primary battery. Now what you get from a generator connected to the motor will be free, that is the idea.

regards

Mike

[JohnStone]

We need to account for the whole cake (here my understanding):
1. Motors UFO style produce mech. power on shaft more effitiently than normal motors.
2. Drawing power from generator windings supports mech. torque up to a certain amount. If we overload the generator there is no advantage.
3. Voltage is no power nor amps but the multiplication of both. (At radiant voltage is all - indeed!)
4. The generator emits radiant energy but as long we do not harvest it we will be possibly disappointed.
5. Not harvested radiant might go back to the primary circuit and overheat the pulser or possibly charge the primary battery.
6. All effects together are told to give OU and not every single effect alone.

I am ready to construct a motor test stand (essential parts already in my posession ) in order to measure a Unite MY1020 36V 1000W before and after modification in order to get robust proofs. Nico8K THANKS for your help!!!!!

[l2-ok]

Hello I2-OK


UFO is busy for a while and will respond in time. We will try to help you until then. Click the address below to see if you have measured correctly this way.

http://i1251.photobucket.com/albums/...ISTHEWITCH.jpg
What is the Ohms of your coils from brush to brush. Are you pulsing or using power supply?
Dana

LOL Thank you guys for fast response By this scheme i have double the voltage

[prochiro]

Voltage

12-OK
All-right.
Dana

[l2-ok]

Hello I2-OK
What is the Ohms of your coils from brush to brush. Are you pulsing or using power supply?
Dana

There each coil 0.5 ohm, no not pulsing, just li-po baterry 3.7 volt.

[Dave45]

Hello UFO
I decided to post here, Im sure your pm's are full.
Iv been thinking about the alternator and how to make it asymmetric, these are my thoughts on the subject.
Remove the claws from the rotor turn them around so they face opposite each other facing out.
Take two stators rewind one cw wind the other ccw position one over each claw, pull the magnetic field apart.
Should produce dc
Hope I gave you some idea's

dave

[Dave45]

Iv been studying this further it would seem the only mod mechanically would be a longer shaft and a center piece to separate the stators, both end caps and bearings could be used.

Also a permanent toroid magnet could be used but then the output would be continuous unless we use a clutch pulley like an air conditioner pump uses.

It seems doable,
Does anyone know where can I get a shaft custom made?

Thanks
dave

[prochiro]

Dave45
Any local machine shop can do a shaft. Just be sure you find one that will not say, we will do it if we have time, and leave you hanging for many months as many will try to do. They can fit the shaft to your rotor. Cash also makes things cheaper.
Dana