My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[john_g]

UK Import

Hi All

Is there anyone also from the UK that may like to import a UFO motor kit?

Regards

John

[JJUK]

Keen to express interest in the items on the list too for complete Imperial replication. Need to see exactly what's required for the build first though as I'll have to pull in favours for welding, lathe work etc. Will be onboard if I can figure a way to complete though...

And that would be a UK shipment as well (in response to john_g).

JJUK

[Ufopolitics]

Good Morn Machine, Good Morn to All

Good-day everyone, what a beautiful morning, I'm so pumped to speak to Dyann.
It's 8 am at my house, so it will be about 3 hrs till until Dyann is in. I'm on the east coast, and she is in Ohio.
I can't wait.

Hello Machine,

Yes a very nice looking morning down here also!!
Please tell Dyann that orders may increase to many more...so to keep that in mind to calculate a low price in the package...even though, so far you are getting great deals there!!...so "push it" at your own "feeling and technique"...

@ warrensk


You will have to drill 3 holes into your steel end plate, for brush assembly, I am sure a hand drill will work, just take your time to mark out holes good with a punch, that is all the equipment you should need for motor assembly, plus screwdriver, etc.

Machine, I used a bench drill, the holes have to be perfectly vertical, as that may deviate the screw leaning the board off center...So the way I did it was:

1-First, have to fit the armature into the steel plate with the new commutator and bearing already pressed, board on loose.

2-Get spacers (4) that were previously made from the gap taken from other side (the gap I take it from brushes housing distance to commutator, the brush I just push it out and hold it with spring, like seen on video)
Spacers must fit tight, once all four on, then board would be tight, but still movable up-down.
Adjust board perfectly aligned with commutator level.

Then I got a drill bit around same size of bolt-hole on board (a little Smaller)...BUT, I got white paint and added a drop to the end of drill bit, not the drilling side, but back of it. Slide it smoothly on each hole till marking the Inner side of steel black plate...all three....wait till paint dry and remove everything.

First I went with a finer drilling, then with the proper size to make thread (12/24 was the best size compared to original bolts holes)
Why the thread?...to get bolts perfectly erected upright as also being able to tight them up.

Do not attempt to make holes or Tap (thread) from the outer side of steel plate, as it coincides exactly... with the outer rim that sets a higher surface, so hole gets right in between the two different leveled surfaces....guaranteeing broken drill bits and Taps..

I will be displaying perfect sizing and dimensions for all this in detail later on. (after 12-12-12)


Regards


Ufopolitics

P.D: So, now you guys are getting all this armatures beautifully cleaned and epoxy painted in nice green??!!...I mean ready to be wounded?!

That's great!...so far Turion and I are the only ones who have to go through the painful task of sanding, pulling wires and cutting our hands in several pieces...but that is ok...we will survive...

I guess you were all afraid of all those pictures with wires all over...dust galore...and massive sanding...

Just kidding, I am very glad is made much easier for all of you!!!

Kindest regards...grrrr!!

[Ufopolitics]

The Great communication of Pictures!

Hi UFO,

Thanks for the suggestions. I had tried some of these earlier, but was still getting arcing. Now unfortunately I have just "smoked out" this latest
build, which is a little discouraging. I will have to rewind the rotor again before any further experimenting and retrying your suggestions.

Hello Dear Anoop,

Sorry to hear about your loss..BUT, If you read in previews posts, (5 pole V Winding is quite back...) will find an example I will display here for you:

Asymmetric DC Motor - Winding Question - YouTube

Here He shows that his motor RAN, but went into a smoke...later on after checking with me and Diagrams, He found out his brushes were not set properly...then he had a Successful running motor:

Asymmetric DC Motor Replication - Success !! - YouTube

For the sake of comparison with other builders, I am finding that the best pulse rates are from between 5Hz to around 100Hz. Using frequencies any
higher than this, the motor does not rotate. The same applies to motors with permanent magnet stators as well as to motors with coil stators. Does this
sound about right?
For comparison with others, I am reffering to the small 5 pole motors, inverted-V winding, around 1.5 ohms per coil-pair. Voltage 10 to 16V aprox.

So, and therefore...NOPE, You can not establish "rules" as limits based on your replications when We all have here many successful replications that goes 25,000 RPM's based on much higher Hz's...sorry Anoop...but Your builds are not right.




Why are you wrapping the rotor enclosed within a plastic tube??!!
Where did you take this type of build?...NOT from me Anoop!, I have never, ever have a motor enclosed like that within an enclosed plastic...suffocating the inside of the core...that is only guaranteeing excessive heat and crispy burnt coils.

As WHY do you have Stators also wrapped around plastic?...are they ready to be "shipped"?...again...where did you get this assumption from?...could I , please, know that?

Besides having a "perfect cooking bagging" enveloping both in "sealed" plastic , stators and armature rotor cores...you are creating a HUGE AIR GAP there!

Big Air Gaps added to plastic insulation's kill-diminishes the magnetic fields...so now I understand why you had so many problems to get them running...

The Air gaps MUST be as close as possible between METAL to METAL, Steel to Steel OR even Copper to Copper in Air Cores...never "Isolated" by plastic!...and much less within a vacuum proof kind of structure like that plastic tubing you are showing there your rotor spins within!

You never, ever, enclose stators windings within a sealed proof plastic bag...unless you are looking to use it as a fire starting device.

According to this picture below:



The wires came out loose from rotor...POOR winding, not tight enough, excessive wires and NOT using any kind of Hedges or strips between poles gaps to hold wires from coming out at excessive RPM's...are you measuring the RPM's that rotor was going?!

UFO, there's something else I'd like to try (after I've rewound the rotor). Please let me know if this makes sense or whether I am on the wrong track:
(This applies to 5-pole motors with stator coils.)
- Supply the rotor with ordinary DC (not pulsed). In any case the rotor coils will be pulsing at 5X rotation speed due to commutator action. And the commutator will always be "synchronised with the pulse".
Speed (and tuning) can be controlled by varying the DC voltage.
- Simultaneously supply the stator coils with pulsed DC - tuning can be done by controlling the pulse speed, in order to match the rotor.
Am I missing anything?

I've attached pictures of this motor dissasembled. I've also attached another picture of the overall setup, where you can see on the right the mosfet switching circuit and on the left a bagfull of the motors I've destroyed!

Best wishes
Anoop

Before trying something else, Anoop, fix all those errors (unless you want to keep adding burnt motors to that pile!)...then go back and re-check your brush positioning versus your time on-off...within the stators.
Check those videos I have displayed here, as well as the other one He has on his channel on how to wind this motors properly.

There have been many successful replications on that particular five poles motor here Anoop...and honestly it is not my fault or of any other Member here...that you "assume" and do things NOT specified anywhere...at your "own belief"....then coming here and expressing certain "rules and regulations" based on Altered from original replications.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Wrong Brushes setup

Hi UFO,

Hello Anoop,

[IMG][/IMG]


Here is a possible mistake...look at the way brushes display related to stators...like in the original diagram to the right.

Then look at the way you had them set up and running...

If it is the way that Radio Shack does, then it is fine, because the way they turn to 90º...but re-check on this.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[John Smith]

List for 1st lot 56 frame kit

Hello all
May I take this opportunity to say THANK YOU to UFO for his total devotion to getting this out there.
Also thank you to everybody for a fantastic effort in posting their results and failures...we learn from both!
I made the small radioshack asymetrical motor and have not posted so far as my results would only have been duplicating results alrerady posted and I did not want to clutter the thread any more than needed with nothing new to add.
I have ordered bits for a 10 pole replication but they are taking forever to arrive so I am prepared to take the LEAP and as such am interested in the 56 frame as a kit or as a package I have to rewind.
I would need to have it shipped to Western Australia.....willing to pay up front paypal or however is needed.
Thank you
John Smith


Update:
List for 1st lot 56 frame kit :

iankoglin: 3
machinealive: 1
niko8K: 1
JohnStone: 1
prochiro: 1
mklimesh: 1
aaron5120: 2
zardox: 1
John Smith 1
-------------
Total: 12

[machinealive]

the UFO KIT

OK it's all done and here is the goods, all you have to do is ask for UFO KIT

but first,

The shaft does come with the rotor assembly
The magnets do come with the stator assembly

NOW the list with prices

0510052 rotor core assembly $ 35.00
0502029 stator core assembly $ 49.15
0566001 bearing $4.00
0566000 bearing $4.00
0567028c comms 2@$24.00 $48.00
0515032 brush assembly $34.00
0596081 1/4"x 1" key $2.00
0596093 long bolt 2@2.00 $4.00
0514120 com bracket assembly $58.15
0541008 driver end bracket assembly $24.85
0582036 com bracket cover $4.00

Total $267.15

That's incredible pricing

Now if you want just the motor already wound , say for testing, the price went up, #P56MD003its now $378.50

So now there is only 1 brush assembly because 1 is coming installed on com bracket assembly #0541008, with grommets, all there.
The other end cover is the driver end bracket #0541008.
Only put 2 long bolts in order.
And finally, the self tapping sheet metal screws to hold to mesh com bracket cover on, will have to get at hardware store, when you get bolts to mount brush assembly to driver end bracket.

They ship internationally, even western Austrailia.
But no paypal JohnStone, gotta be credit card or wire transfer.

There, were all good to go.

Have fun folks
here's Dianne's direct line 1-440-349-4083-ext#117
Hope I didn't forget anything

[Lightworker1]

OK it's all done and here is the goods, all you have to do is ask for UFO KIT

but first,

The shaft does come with the rotor assembly
The magnets do come with the stator assembly

NOW the list with prices

0510052 rotor core assembly $ 35.00
0502029 stator core assembly $ 49.15
0566001 bearing $4.00
0566000 bearing $4.00
0567028c comms 2@$24.00 $48.00
0515032 brush assembly $34.00
0596081 1/4"x 1" key $2.00
0596093 long bolt 2@2.00 $4.00
0514120 com bracket assembly $58.15
0541008 driver end bracket assembly $24.85
0582036 com bracket cover $4.00

Total $267.15

That's incredible pricing

Now if you want just the motor already wound , say for testing, the price went up, #P56MD003its now $378.50

So now there is only 1 brush assembly because 1 is coming installed on com bracket assembly #0541008, with grommets, all there.
The other end cover is the driver end bracket #0541008.
Only put 2 long bolts in order.
And finally, the self tapping sheet metal screws to hold to mesh com bracket cover on, will have to get at hardware store, when you get bolts to mount brush assembly to driver end bracket.

They ship internationally, even western Austrailia.
But no paypal JohnStone, gotta be credit card or wire transfer.

There, were all good to go.

Have fun folks
here's Dianne's direct line 1-440-349-4083-ext#117
Hope I didn't forget anything

Congratulations
I guess within the continental US, price including S&H might be somewhere $300.00 or it could be more. It is possible they might be using UPS, USPS or others. Most companies already know their shipping rates. If possible, this might be useful info. Many Thanks.
Warmest regards
lightworker

[DadHav]

Congratulations
I guess within the continental US, price including S&H might be somewhere $300.00 or it could be more. It is possible they might be using UPS, USPS or others. Most companies already know their shipping rates. If possible, this might be useful info. Many Thanks.
Warmest regards
lightworker

I'm just curious. Are you guys dealing with Imperial Electric in Akron Ohio or maybe the Solon Ohio associates? I think my engineers used to deal with these people all the time for our automation equipment designs. Is anything coming from Exeter Rd by any chance. It happens to be almost in my back yard.
John Hav

[sampojo]

construction for the UFO kit?

As I see it I just need to learn how to wire the motor and assemble it.

[JohnStone]

In order to modify the end cap it could be a help if someone could draw a template. Anybody can print it out and stick it on the end cap - well centered - as template for punching. Just an idea - might be impracticably.

[sampojo]

questions on construction for the UFO kit

Still trying to find ways to go thru 90 pages of this thread as fast as possible. (I still have to work for a living and sleep ) As I see it I just need to learn how to wire the rotor between the 2 commutators and assemble.

1. So the frame is big enough to handle 2 commutators without needing to enlarge it?

2. No outside circuitry to control the motor other than say a standard DC PWM?

I think I will be doing this. My wife will be pissed off if I don't come up with a home power unit to get us thru the planet Nibiru crossing. I have this shower stall battery operated spray cleaning thingy I got a Target and I bought this big pack of Energizer batteries for it and they must have been old, I only get 4 cleanings per battery set. I figure I should convert its motor so it runs better. Perfect application don't you think?

[Cornboy 555]

OK it's all done and here is the goods, all you have to do is ask for UFO KIT

but first,

The shaft does come with the rotor assembly
The magnets do come with the stator assembly

NOW the list with prices

0510052 rotor core assembly $ 35.00
0502029 stator core assembly $ 49.15
0566001 bearing $4.00
0566000 bearing $4.00
0567028c comms 2@$24.00 $48.00
0515032 brush assembly $34.00
0596081 1/4"x 1" key $2.00
0596093 long bolt 2@2.00 $4.00
0514120 com bracket assembly $58.15
0541008 driver end bracket assembly $24.85
0582036 com bracket cover $4.00

Total $267.15

That's incredible pricing

Now if you want just the motor already wound , say for testing, the price went up, #P56MD003its now $378.50

So now there is only 1 brush assembly because 1 is coming installed on com bracket assembly #0541008, with grommets, all there.
The other end cover is the driver end bracket #0541008.
Only put 2 long bolts in order.
And finally, the self tapping sheet metal screws to hold to mesh com bracket cover on, will have to get at hardware store, when you get bolts to mount brush assembly to driver end bracket.

They ship internationally, even western Austrailia.
But no paypal JohnStone, gotta be credit card or wire transfer.

There, were all good to go.

Have fun folks
here's Dianne's direct line 1-440-349-4083-ext#117
Hope I didn't forget anything

Excellent, and great work Machinealive, You are a Godsend.

Regards Cornboy.

[JohnStone]

Still trying to find ways to go thru 90 pages of this thread as fast as possible. (I still have to work for a living and sleep ) As I see it I just need to learn how to wire the rotor between the 2 commutators and assemble.

1. So the frame is big enough to handle 2 commutators without needing to enlarge it?

2. No outside circuitry to control the motor other than say a standard DC PWM?

I think I will be doing this. My wife will be pissed off if I don't come up with a home power unit to get us thru the planet Nibiru crossing. I have this shower stall battery operated spray cleaning thingy I got a Target and I bought this big pack of Energizer batteries for it and they must have been old, I only get 4 cleanings per battery set. I figure I should convert its motor so it runs better. Perfect application don't you think?

Welcome Sampojo!
unfortunately we have a lot o instructions spread over all pages. They were posted in the very time when our research had some outcome. The only shortcut for impatient members is to read UFOs posts first and read in detail where instructions occure congested.
There is no simple instrucable up to now and as we deal with facts partly not understood well and being completely absent in current science it is difficult to forward those facts in short. We often feel like blind flight and and what can you report of the landscape passing durign blnd flight
I doubt that anyone except UFO will have a workale power unit before Dec 21th.
These facts shall not discourage you but ENcourage you to take teh effort and start reading in order to enable yyou to be part of the success waiting. Nevertheless you need to know more than knowing how to wind a motor.
rgds Johns

[Lightworker1]

As I see it I just need to learn how to wire the motor and assemble it.

Hello sampojo, as UFO has stated some while back, it is best get your feet wet by converting toy radio shack motor as it relatively cheap. Mean while, you can start catching up with prior work as Johnstone have already stated. Several members have already done that. If you choose this easier learning path, even if you make a mistake it won't set you back. Here are some RS Motor replication links:
Asymmetric DC Motor - Winding Question - YouTube
Asymmetric DC Motor Replication - Success !! - YouTube
ufo assymetric motor winding crude tuto 1 - YouTube
Replication of UFOPOLITIC'S Asymmetric Radio Shack 5 Pole Motor by Lightworker1 - #001 - YouTube

and there are more YT links. Good luck
Warmest regards
lightworker