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Hello everyone, happy new year, and let's press on in 2013.
A question for Netica And Iankoglin please.
Both of you have run standard DC motors on (inductive collapse, negative, Radiant) output from pulsing coils with diodes right?
Would it be possible for either of you to repeat that, but pulsing a asymmetrically modified motor, and measuring what comes out of the gen or output brushes.
The coil being pulsed whith hot positive, is outputting cold negative to run the motor, yes? so would it be positive - hot coming out the gen brushes? I'm sure you can see where i'm going with this.
With time i could do it myself, but you Guy's already have the setup.
I am putting all my effort into the Mag3 build.
@ UFO, if you have already done this could you please enlighten us.
Many Thanks, Cornboy.
Hello Cornboy and Happy New Year man!
Cornboy, your question/doubts/concern/wondering... are written on my first Thread here.
The answer is no, Cold does not "creates/generates" Hot back...That is not the way it works...We all know how to make Hot through typical Generators, Faraday Induction, etc,etc
Cold Radiant electricity is a Higher Frequency flow...not like Hot, which is very slow to start with.
There are processes to get Radiant to Hot, but it is a process of filtering, and storing in HF Caps...and there are losses....and a rotary machine...is never going to do all those stages in one spin.
You are going to try to build the Mag 3 ...Cornboy...but you lack many of the basic knowledge here...you have not built even a small asymmetric model...and honestly, I believe it is not the way to go...
At the end, you are going to be full of questions all over..just because of above facts, questions like this one here...already answered before.
I recommend that you read more...study more...review more and replicate more...before going Mag 3.
Regards
Ufopolitics
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
Did You all noticed of the Amperage readings from start til developing full speed?
If You have not paid attention to that "detail"...please do...observe how it starts at over 67 Amps(Time 4:35 on video)...then 51.7 (@4:37)...and 47.7 (still at 4:37)...36.2A (at 4:39)...35.7 (@4:40) till it reaches a steady value...at 4:42...of 32.68 Amps...then keep it steady at 32 and "some decimals" of Amperage fluctuations...
Now We have to consider the Acceleration attributes from Zero to Full Speed...of a 20 Lbs Rotor...it "blew it" in 0.07 Seconds...
You mean 7 seconds right?
On a side note why is this forum automating spam links in replies? This is auto-inserted at the bottom of my reply-
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Hi UFO @ all
Thankyou for the great video. Very easy to follow instruction even for me!
I have one question about balance of motor when winding. I don't have one to practice on yet. Do you think it may help with balanced and or vibration if you wound in this order P1-P15-P2-P16-P3-P17 and so on
I'd like to see P15 sit exactly like P1 not wound over the top of another pair then do P2 and then P16 to keep it Balanced. Not sure if it would make much of a difference or not.
A side by side test on a unmodified motor and a UFO molested motor A power test and a noise test. like 4cyl against V8
If there are any other KIWI's watching and would like to get a motor or two and sea frieght them (could get two for the price of one) Its about $280 for a 1sqm and $180.70 to air freight for 1 UFO kit, It would be the cheapest option. A Kiwi group buy and ship. Let me Know.
Looking forward to video No 2 Do you take AMEX
Cheers to all from NZ
Hello Jason, and Happy New Year!
Sorry I am answering your question here from "Last Year"...
I kept your question, to answer it when I was done with the winding sequences videos...as I believe it is a great question to Enhance the True Meaning of this Machines.
You have asked ..."Why not wind P1 and P15...and so on...P2 and P16..."
You talked about "Balancing"...
I said it on video...Yo DO NOT wind P1 and P15...Why?
It could be done by all means...perfectly well...but...
You will kill the Spiral Effect.
[IMG][/IMG]
In the picture above...I have drawn the Real Way windings go...related to armature....
Balancing?...Where did I write that they "must be" balanced?...never.
Balancing completely kills the Hammering Effect.
Realize there is a Main Sequence within the Pairs Sequences there...P1 through P28 Closes a Cycle of an Impact Turn of 360º...That is a complete Revolution...then it repeats endlessly...gaining every time more power...as also Coils are already energized within.
Every time this Main Cycle happens...there is an Impact force generated from Minus to Max...Electromagnetically Speaking...
There IS a Balancing to get "Unbalanced" that we must follow here...
This will help us to understand that the mechanical Arm of Electromagnetic Field P1 NEEDS to be the smallest...as they develop/progress/evolve into a Sequence from small to greater than...Magnetic Fields.
P28 is the Final "Bang" to this Cycle...just like when a Gas Engine...the Piston Explodes originates the "Weight Balancer" to suddenly Bang into the rotation sequence as a final Hammering Effect....that is actually who...injects the main power to rotation.
It would then be understood that the further away (bigger Arm Radius)...and the heavier/bigger P28 would be...the more Torque and Speed our Machines will develop...
Further on...in this specific Machine...that has Four Brush System at top and bottom...that generates the Balancing of creating Two Spiral Cycles...away by 180º...(Only IF We are Setting the Input that way in our connections...)...That is when We are Balancing the Hammering to occur at Two Equally distant Points of the 360 Quadrant.
Hope this helps you and the rest who do not see this "side" of the Machines yet.
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
On a side note why is this forum automating spam links in replies? This is auto-inserted at the bottom of my reply-
Hello Flux it,
Yes, I meant seven seconds...
I wrote 0.07 because that was the order on Video Time, meaning from frame 4:35 to 4:42...You subtract them (as is) then you have 0:07, sorry I put a "." instead of a ":"...
I know pretty well how videos brake down the Time... (00:00:00:00 [HH:MM:SS:MS]
But IF We want to get "Technical" here I must tell you that depending on Video Format...time does not match with your clock/watch or Real Time, related to Frames per second...must programs run at 30 FPS...while others at 29 FPS...others at 24 FPS...NONE at 60 FPS...so really...to make a Real Time measure there based on Frames...is not that simple, non accurate either...my friend.
If You notice...and I wrote it...there is a decrease of Amperage on same second at video counter...(04:37) Amperage drops from 51.7 to 47.7 Amps...How come?
For the reason I wrote b4...
Regards and Happy New Year!
Ufopolitics
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
Thanks for the winding video, that cleared up a lot of things in my head.
Now I want to replicate also but so far have only been able to get my hands on a 8P / 2S univeral motor salvaged from a vacuum cleaner (120v/2A rating). I have not seen you mention 8P anywhere and so I'm asking if my intended winding pattern will be good. See drawing below.
The straight lines represent 12~20 turns while the curved line is the interconnect to it's complementary pole. Is this the way the winding should be done for a 8P rotor???
I intend to excite the stators separately (constant current) so I can have more logical measurement data later.
Merry Christmas to everyone!!!
Lester444
Hello Lester and Happy New Year!
Thanks, I am glad.
I do have written here about Eight Poles...John Stone had an 8 pole machine...
Eight Poles does not work...At least, I tell you, I have tried to exhaustion...but for some reason this set up can not avoid for coils to intersect at certain angles to cancel magnetic fields...
Maybe you find a way of making it happen...it depends on the combinations you choose...
Now, let me say this...a 3D Graphic will not show this...only a CAD Top view...where you could rotate armature/coils...related to stators at every single degree of rotation (360)
Regards
Ufopolitics
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
UFOPolitics,
I wonder if I might ask a question. I have a spool of # 18 wire to use on my "flying machine" and there has been some talk that you might try a different size next. I have wound several AC motors over the years 1/4 for practice to 5 hp for real and built multiple wind generators to 10 kw. using neos and open core fiberglass stators. I also have a spool of #27 which if wound 8 in hand would replace the #18 and make fitting the turns easier (maybe). What would you do?
For that is what I shall do tomorrow while the snow flies. Have a good New Year where the sun shines all the time.
Garry
Hello Iflewmyown,
Is great to have here a person with your expertise in winding...awesome!
Ok, Eight strands of 27 awg would be stronger than just 18 gauge (awg)...stronger from the magnetic field side based on a Multifilar concepts...but one thing to consider there...since it is for "flying"...is the weight it will add in both cases...just supposing the copper mass would be same...then add the insulation for each strand...
On the side of resistance...just calculate eight resistors in parallel...how much related to just one...will add up to?
Regards and Happy New Year
Ufopolitics
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
Cornboy, your question/doubts/concern/wondering... are written on my first Thread here.
The answer is no, Cold does not "creates/generates" Hot back...That is not the way it works...We all know how to make Hot through typical Generators, Faraday Induction, etc,etc
Cold Radiant electricity is a Higher Frequency flow...not like Hot, which is very slow to start with.
There are processes to get Radiant to Hot, but it is a process of filtering, and storing in HF Caps...and there are losses....and a rotary machine...is never going to do all those stages in one spin.
You are going to try to build the Mag 3 ...Cornboy...but you lack many of the basic knowledge here...you have not built even a small asymmetric model...and honestly, I believe it is not the way to go...
At the end, you are going to be full of questions all over..just because of above facts, questions like this one here...already answered before.
I recommend that you read more...study more...review more and replicate more...before going Mag 3.
Regards
Ufopolitics
Hello UFO, and all, thanks UFO i understand what you are saying, i personally have trained many apprentices over the years, and practical hands on experience is the best teacher.
You are right, i will have many questions when building and testing the MAG3 build, which i am completely commited to, and some may be a repitition of previous work covered.
The problem for me is although i have read and tried to understand every post as they have happened, going back over and trying to find some stuff on such popular threads is very time consuming.
Time is my least available item, as i work 7 days, as you know.
So if you could please bear with me on dumb questions it would be greatly appreciated.
Hello UFO, and all, thanks UFO i understand what you are saying, i personally have trained many apprentices over the years, and practical hands on experience is the best teacher.
You are right, i will have many questions when building and testing the MAG3 build, which i am completely commited to, and some may be a repitition of previous work covered.
The problem for me is although i have read and tried to understand every post as they have happened, going back over and trying to find some stuff on such popular threads is very time consuming.
Time is my least available item, as i work 7 days, as you know.
So if you could please bear with me on dumb questions it would be greatly appreciated.
BTW, what does come OUT?
Warm regards Cornboy.
Hello Cornboy,
Yes I know it is time consuming going back into pages...looking for certain posts...even going back a few pages to find posts to respond makes it a "mission"...related to that I wanted to suggest to Aaron Murakami or other Webmaster here to see if it would be possible to add a Search Button on each Thread...to look for specific words...like "five pole"...three pole, Mag Three...or any...that will cut time by tons...I believe, and I hope...it should not be such a big deal of programming the codes to do that on this Software...since it is based on PHP...It then should display like any search Engine...all the Hits with the key words.
That would be awesome right?
Now, related to...What does come OUT?
When you run a Symmetrical Motor with reverse Radiant flow...or back "spikes"...or C EMF...or B EMF...Or whatever name you feel happy to choose......Then Motor...no longer have an opposed current flow...just one there...so there is "nothing to oppose to"...then Motor runs cold...no sparks...and a bit of a smooth acceleration "delay"...
When You run an Asymmetrical Motor with this reversed currents...(Many have done it when using the Asymmetrical Stator )...very little comes out...no opposed currents there...and all Radiant gets to run the Motor in a high percentage...no reversal of coils occurs...since there is no Hot to oppose to...
Hot current "invokes Cold"...it does not work the other way around...Cold does not invokes nada...nothing...it is just there.
By creating a Hot Magnetic Field...and pulsing it...it invokes Radiant/Cold...at the Hot times off...or during the collapse.
Radiant Field is a Natural Response to Hot , which is an Artificial Field generated by Us...Radiant is always there...randomly, not strong, not uniform, not aligned...but there, and what Hot Field does...is to align the Radiant Field...then it becomes stronger, uniform, a steady flow.
You work seven days a week...I do too...but I work more time (out of those seven) on FE than real work...:and I am not retired...
Regards
Ufopolitics
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
Yes I know it is time consuming going back into pages...looking for certain posts...even going back a few pages to find posts to respond makes it a "mission"...related to that I wanted to suggest to Aaron Murakami or other Webmaster here to see if it would be possible to add a Search Button on each Thread...to look for specific words...like "five pole"...three pole, Mag Three...or any...that will cut time by tons...I believe, and I hope...it should not be such a big deal of programming the codes to do that on this Software...since it is based on PHP...It then should display like any search Engine...all the Hits with the key words.
That would be awesome right?
Now, related to...What does come OUT?
When you run a Symmetrical Motor with reverse Radiant flow...or back "spikes"...or C EMF...or B EMF...Or whatever name you feel happy to choose......Then Motor...no longer have an opposed current flow...just one there...so there is "nothing to oppose to"...then Motor runs cold...no sparks...and a bit of a smooth acceleration "delay"...
When You run an Asymmetrical Motor with this reversed currents...(Many have done it when using the Asymmetrical Stator )...very little comes out...no opposed currents there...and all Radiant gets to run the Motor in a high percentage...no reversal of coils occurs...since there is no Hot to oppose to...
Hot current "invokes Cold"...it does not work the other way around...Cold does not invokes nada...nothing...it is just there.
By creating a Hot Magnetic Field...and pulsing it...it invokes Radiant/Cold...at the Hot times off...or during the collapse.
Radiant Field is a Natural Response to Hot , which is an Artificial Field generated by Us...Radiant is always there...randomly, not strong, not uniform, not aligned...but there, and what Hot Field does...is to align the Radiant Field...then it becomes stronger, uniform, a steady flow.
You work seven days a week...I do too...but I work more time (out of those seven) on FE than real work...:and I am not retired...
Regards
Ufopolitics
WOW, great answer UFO, now i understand, it has never been explained to me like that before.
Testing on MAG3, will first be Linear, then stator pulsed by shaft connected timing with linear on rotor, then both pulsed, and finally i will build very large robust coil setup to run MAG3 on cold.
Laminations will be here about mid Janurary, by which time i will have caught up on farm work, and be able to spend a couple of weeks on motor build, and YES, the dumb questions will start to flow sorry.
Will be away from communication for three days, will talk then.
And now it is only $29.99...while at EBay goes still for...39.99
And of course..."Untouchable" Prices of GRAINGER...have the same Chinese electronics with "a different envelope"...at $257.50...
It goes all the way to 147.5 Ft-Lb...
And I needed something over 50 pound digital scale...My motor blows it at first turn...and could not find any digital scale that goes over 50 Lb/25Kg (No Fish that Big available in Florida I guess... )
On my next video...I am also using a Manual Mechanical wrench attached to it...to back up results.
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
Hey guys, I just got to sit down with this project and I am following the videos and I am going to mark the stator magnets North and South. Not so fast Garry the big chunks of ceramic in the stator housing are not magnetic in the least. HUH! This stator was missing in the original shipment and then was sent later. Yesterday I got a bill for $25.00 for shipping and now the #$@^% thing is not even magnetic??? Has anyone else checked their stators?
Garry
When I tried to run the 1000w motor it ran cold but the circuit heated up very quickly I am sure it is because the hot and cold coils are not a match for the larger motor
very much
Kindest regards
G’Day UFO and all my other friends
After my last post I thought I might try something else, I thought if I was to run the motor at the manufactures specs the 1000watt motor is volts 48v and see if the motor would heat up
I just decided to take some measurements of my Happy motor circuit the same one as in the video only using the unmodified 1000watt 24v motor
Before I started it up the 36v battery the one I have been using since I took the video months 5 month ago was measuring 37.82 volts I was a bit surprised as I have not measured the volts since I took that video but I continue to us it to light up my workshop twice I put John Bedini’s spanker a small 12v battery charger on to keep it charged, I did not even check to see if it needed charging as when the battery is fully charged it just trickle charges to keep it up to stop it sulphating
So the figures are
Battery before starting = 37.82 volts temperature Mosfets=21.3C, Coil=23.1C, Motor= 25.6C
6:40pm starting the battery volts reduced to 36.75v I adjusted the output the duty cycle pot so that the volts to the motor after the diodes is 48v the amps to the motor reading the Positive wire was 1 amp . The draw from the battery was 2.1 amps the coil and circuit was not even warm.
6:45 I did some more measurements
Battery = 36.7v drawing 2.01a . before diodes=2.1 v after the diodes= 40.1 v and motor receiving 1.0a. Revs=2953 mosfets=?, Coil=?, Motor=?
6:50 the measurements were
Battery = 36.68v drawing 2.0a. before diodes=1.28 v after the diodes= 41.76v and motor receiving 0.98a. Revs=3743 mosfets=27-30C, Coil=32.42C, Motor=31.8C
7:00 the measurements were
Battery = 36.61v drawing 2.0 amps. before diodes=1.29 v after the diodes= 42.38 v and motor receiving 0.95a. Revs=3087 mosfets=29-31C, Coil=36.15C, Motor=35C
7:15 the measurements were
Battery = 36.55v drawing 2.0a. before diodes=3.84 v after the diodes= 42.55v and motor receiving 0.95a. Revs=3109 mosfets=29.8-32C, Coil=41.9C, Motor=39.4C
One hour after switching the machine off the battery volts were 37.74v and the next day 12hours later it measured 37.8volts
So in summary the motor was running no load for 50 min and keeping within the motor rated specs (about) the motor gradually ran hot whereas the MY1018 36v 9.5amp motor never got hot even though it was running 3 times the rated speed and volts
So I think as stated on my previous post that the coils HOT an COLD in the circuit board do not match up with the motor.
Please any input would be really appreciated
Kindest Regards
Still here working and Thinking hard
G’Day UFO and all my other friends
After my last post I thought I might try something else, I thought if I was to run the motor at the manufactures specs the 1000watt motor is volts 48v and see if the motor would heat up
I just decided to take some measurements of my Happy motor circuit the same one as in the video only using the unmodified 1000watt 24v motor
Before I started it up the 36v battery the one I have been using since I took the video months 5 month ago was measuring 37.82 volts I was a bit surprised as I have not measured the volts since I took that video but I continue to us it to light up my workshop twice I put John Bedini’s spanker a small 12v battery charger on to keep it charged, I did not even check to see if it needed charging as when the battery is fully charged it just trickle charges to keep it up to stop it sulphating
So the figures are
Battery before starting = 37.82 volts temperature Mosfets=21.3C, Coil=23.1C, Motor= 25.6C
6:40pm starting the battery volts reduced to 36.75v I adjusted the output the duty cycle pot so that the volts to the motor after the diodes is 48v the amps to the motor reading the Positive wire was 1 amp . The draw from the battery was 2.1 amps the coil and circuit was not even warm.
6:45 I did some more measurements
Battery = 36.7v drawing 2.01a . before diodes=2.1 v after the diodes= 40.1 v and motor receiving 1.0a. Revs=2953 mosfets=?, Coil=?, Motor=?
6:50 the measurements were
Battery = 36.68v drawing 2.0a. before diodes=1.28 v after the diodes= 41.76v and motor receiving 0.98a. Revs=3743 mosfets=27-30C, Coil=32.42C, Motor=31.8C
7:00 the measurements were
Battery = 36.61v drawing 2.0 amps. before diodes=1.29 v after the diodes= 42.38 v and motor receiving 0.95a. Revs=3087 mosfets=29-31C, Coil=36.15C, Motor=35C
7:15 the measurements were
Battery = 36.55v drawing 2.0a. before diodes=3.84 v after the diodes= 42.55v and motor receiving 0.95a. Revs=3109 mosfets=29.8-32C, Coil=41.9C, Motor=39.4C
One hour after switching the machine off the battery volts were 37.74v and the next day 12hours later it measured 37.8volts
So in summary the motor was running no load for 50 min and keeping within the motor rated specs (about) the motor gradually ran hot whereas the MY1018 36v 9.5amp motor never got hot even though it was running 3 times the rated speed and volts
So I think as stated on my previous post that the coils HOT an COLD in the circuit board do not match up with the motor.
Please any input would be really appreciated
Kindest Regards
Still here working and Thinking hard
Hello Ian and Happy New Year,
Yes you are completely right...Coils are not balanced there, in my opinion.
THE 1000 Watts Symmetric Motor have a bigger constantly running Coil, reversing its polarity two times in a revolution (four brushes type right?)
This unbalance could cause heating on either one...Controller-Coil-MOSFET's...or Motor
May I ask what Diodes you have there, rectifying at output?...are they Ultra fast Switchers?...are diodes getting hot?
If You have the 1N4148 small crystal diodes...install them before your bigger rectifiers, same direction...BUT on the Hot side, which is the low frequency end...otherwise they will blow with Radiant Higher frequency...Then test it again and see what happens then.
Regards my Dear Friend
Ufopolitics
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
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