My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

You got it great!

Thanks, Cornboy! Mr. Kelly is indeed to be congratulated, his book is simply incredible.

As for magnetism, I've found it harder to describe succinctly the more I've learned about it. :P From the sounds of it UFO may have some better theories, as I'm not sure what I've learned in school is all that useful.

Magnetism is a force between materials, like gravity. Much like the mass of an object determines how it is influenced by gravity, the magnetism of a material determines how magnetically-influenced it is. The magnetic field of an object is a measure of how much magnetic force it exerts at a certain distance from itself, and the field gets exponentially weaker as with gravity. (An object 2X farther away has 4X less magnetic force applied.)

When you make a coil of wire and pass it in and out of a magnetic field, a voltage is generated in the wire based on how fast it's going, how powerful the field is, how many coils are in the wire, etc. In the same fashion, passing a voltage through the wire will create a magnetic field. This is how motors (and witches ) work.

(I'm a bit fuzzy on the following part, so if someone could confirm this for me I'd appreciate it.)

When a symmetrical motor coil is energized, the magnetic field created by the electricity tries to align itself with the correct pole in the stator (the coil wants its north pole aligned with the stator south pole, etc.) The commutator changes which coil is charged before the coils become aligned and it tries to align again, never quite getting there before the commutator changes the magnetic fields. However, the turning of the coil inside of the magnetic field (the one already present because of the stator) creates a back-EMF (Electromotive Force = voltage, more or less), which acts contrary to the input voltage. With an asymmetrical motor, this induced back-EMF travels with instead of against the input.

Sorry if I went over stuff you already know, I just wanted to cover all the bases. I hope this helps.


@UFO, thanks for the warm welcome!

Could you please confirm that I understand this correctly?

The radiant energy input occurs as the magnetic field is collapsing, as a coil is becoming detached from the energized commutator. This is the same as how radiant is induced by pulsed DC through a coil, the field collapsing after each pulse. Adding pulsed DC to an asymmetrical motor simply allows us to create more field collapses and induce more radiant.

Is there anything else I'm missing?

Cheers!
Cole

Hello Cole,

Nope, really not much to add related to your understanding of this "Conflict" between Symmetry and Asymmetry...very well.

Symmetrical Motors keep adding Coil per Coil to each side of the Virtual Symmetrical Rotor Field...but it always stays same as Machine turns...So, the Symmetrical Rotor creates a constant and steady Field...by swapping-reversing coils from one side to other...rotor spins...its fields keep steady.

In Asymmetry...The sequential Pairs-Coils creates a Spiral-Vortex, that is constantly moving, from lower to max...endlessly...So the Spiral, is the "Virtual Field" here, and it is completely Asymmetrical...

Related to Cornboy question about Magnetism...

I see Magnetism as a Form of Energy Storage, in Permanent Magnets...it is manifested as what our Physics does not want to accept...and endless energy storage...
Our Planet is fully charged of Energy...and it manifests in its Two Huge Poles...just like a Giant Permanent Magnet.

First to "see" and express this Magnetism Theory, was Nikola Tesla.

As also Tom Bearden expresses it through its "Dipole" concept...

Once I was having a conversation with some Electric Engineers , colleagues of mine since High School......I was narrating the incident that Nikola Tesla had, when making a huge High Voltage tests on Radiant Fields through His Asymmetrical Transformers...in a small town...and blew all the Power Plant to a complete Outage...everything went dark...that night...

My Friends said "that was impossible"...that "no one" could stop those Plant Generators from outputting its "Artificial" Magnetic Fields to provide electricity to that Town...

And I simply responded...IF, You get a MUCH HIGHER Magnetic Field, of Opposed Nature-Polarity...to ANY Running Generator in our Planet...just so near...that will CANCEL OUT...all their "Artificial" Magnetic Fields...they, absolutely, will stop producing electrical power...
Any Generator we all know off...MUST have a Constant Static Magnetic Field to Induce electricity in their Generating Fields (Generating Fields could rotate...or Stator could rotate...do not matters)...now, get an opposed heavier magnetic field near that Stator ...and watch how power will start to decrease...till it stops.

And then...They (My Friends) all understood this explanation.

Tom Bearden words says it very clear...

All the hydrocarbons ever burned, nuclear fuel rods ever consumed, steam turbines turned, and generators rotated, have not directly added a single watt directly to the external power line and to the power grid. Nor has any windmill, nuclear power plant, battery, or hydroelectric generator or solar cell array. None ever will.


When we turn on an Electromagnet...all we are doing is creating "Our Hot Flow"....that orients, aligns all particles around (charged already)...displaying a Higher Magnetic Force.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Cornboy 555]

Hello to All,

ELECTROMAGNETIC PULSE SWITCH AT 12V - YouTube

I wanted to show you My Modified Solenoid at work, where all I did was to re wind Coil (2.0 Ohms, instead of originally 56 Ohms...I used 22 awg 400 Turns) to be able to pulse it stronger, and with my 555 timer-oscillator, killed Radiant reversed flow with one NTE576 as a Flywheel set, to get robust switching at contacts...and insert an adjusting Gap Screw to set right opening.

[IMG][/IMG]

The main concept is to be used on the Turbo Switch mode, at 36 and 48 V...next...

As You all remember, the Turbo Switch is "ahead" on Timing, so when I pulse it, even slower...it will always offer Gain in Speed and Torque to Motor Operation, while maintaining Amperage at low values.

Now the Oscillator is running here with a 36V LiPo Pack...but we could even use a 9-12 V switching oscillator here...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Holy Hell, UFO imagine a bank of those in your car, driving down the street, would turn a few heads.

Love your work Friend.

Regards Cornboy.

PS. I'm sure our Mr John Stone, and Lester, will come up with something Heavy Duty for us all, it's just that when you open and close a mechanical switch,i am sure something extra happens.

[Cornboy 555]

MAG3 stators.

Hello UFO, i am about to order wire etc, and trying to decide on wire gauge for stators.

I have a huge amount of room for stator windings, and would appreciate your input UFO.

1. The six stator coils will be +-+-+- series connected and pulsed as one coil, right?

2. That being correct, what total Resistance of six coils connected in series should i aim for?

3. Is it ok to wind these coils seperatly and connect them with heavy connectors?


Thanks Friend,

Regards Cornboy.

[Zardox]

Do you have a part number or source for the solenoid?

[Ufopolitics]

Hello UFO, i am about to order wire etc, and trying to decide on wire gauge for stators.

I have a huge amount of room for stator windings, and would appreciate your input UFO.

1. The six stator coils will be +-+-+- series connected and pulsed as one coil, right?

2. That being correct, what total Resistance of six coils connected in series should i aim for?

3. Is it ok to wind these coils seperatly and connect them with heavy connectors?


Thanks Friend,

Regards Cornboy.

Hello Cornboy,

You could use 16 awg for Stators also..

Also Low resistance my friend...now worry about that one later on...

You could connect them in Series-Parallel, playing with Pairs there...or All Series...

Anyways, Cornboy...they are not gonna ask you all that for ordering the wire right?

We will seat down and calculate all this when putting it together...my friend.

You need to know what power source you will be using there...as also the weight it is going to carry...as also the Oscillator running it...and so on...and on...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Do you have a part number or source for the solenoid?

Hello Zardox,

Nope, sorry...like I said on Video...I tried...but it seems "an Antique"

However Trombetta makes very nice ones...but very expensive

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.c...404_sereis.pdf


That one there is rated 200 Amps...$124.00


Could check them out here

And, by the way...don't "fall in love" with the one I showed on video...it is under Amps rated...so I may have to modify its contacts by Carbon ones...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[4lpha1]

Bearing for Imperial Motor

What is the size of the bearing to be replaced in the Imperial motor? I might as well order some before I get mine.

Cheers!
Cole

EDIT: So the solenoid is pulsed by the oscillator circuit, opening and closing for every pulse and relaying that pulse to the motor?

[Cornboy 555]

Why not swap em.

Battery Isolators | Solid State Relays | ORing Diodes


Hello UFO, and all, ready made, Battry swappers, could be of some use in the future!.

Regards Cornboy.

[Zardox]

Nice find Cornboy!
All kinds of cool things we could do with that stuff. My guess is that it probably is out of most peoples price range that are doing their research on a small budget. In any event I think that we will come to make a fully solid state driver on our own. Also we could make a very robut solenoid switch from scratch if that was what we decided to stay with.

[Ufopolitics]

Solenoids...

Hello to All,

I have been doing very successful testing with my modified Solenoid...

Now, My purpose is NOT to drive a Motor based on clicking Solenoids sounding like an old typing machine from the 1800's...


The purpose of this modified pulsed switching circuit, is to replace momentarily the very robust MOSFET's we will be pulsing fully electronically in a near future...BUT, In the meantime, and in order to make the appropriate testings behavior, related to: AMPERAGE REDUCTION, as MUCH BETTER OPERATION of this Machines.

I am using this relay-solenoid just as a MOSFET or BIPOLAR Heavy Duty Transistor would do...I am pulsing the "Gates"...by pulsing its Coil...while keeping completely isolated the pulsing circuit from our Heavy Amps-Volts switching DRAIN-SOURCE...Further on... we could even send a 12V or even a 9 Volts pulsed signal to that Solenoid...and still close-switch-pulse HV-HA...

Now related to Solenoids shopping search and Principles:

A Solenoid is rated by Two Main Values: Voltage and Amperage, where Voltage typically refers to Coil-Driver spec's, while Amperage ratings refer to its Contacts Capabilities to handle those High Currents (A)...So what we really care for...is the Amperage rating...since the Coils we are to take'em apart and re-wind them...therefore, Voltage could be even 12V...as long as we have 100-200 Amps contacts rating.

A High Amps Rated Solenoid (200-300 Amps) contains Materials (Metals and Insulation), that can stand very High Temperatures, including the returning springs, contacts and cores and its traveling housings....and this, is exactly what we are looking for.

Beyond that...a Solenoid is NOT Designed to pulse, but to either Open or Close and stay On for the time we are operating the Motor/Equipment/Vehicle,Circuit, etc...so, Amperage ratings are based on CONTINUOUS CURRENTS...NOT PULSED...Reason why, we need to Adjust Contacts according to our switching capabilities, motor speed, pulse frequency, etc,etc

Marine Application Solenoids offer very robust and weather proof builds...they are a bit more expensive...but it is worth it.
Golf Carts, Utility Electrical small vehicles...have also a vast stock of High Rated Amps Solenoids...

Always look for a Solenoid that is not "Factory Sealed"...meaning, pressed stamped metal casings...this type will be very hard to modify...since we will have to build specific bolted casings for them...so look for bolted cases, or even the ones with rivets...we could always replace rivets by small bolts-nuts-lock washers.

The Advantages:

By sending a Pulsed Signal to this Machines...We are in complete control of our feed flow, the Solenoid will absorb must of the Sparking that normally takes place at Commutators during straight-linear feed...and We will avoid heavy Electron Population "Presence" at Terminal Gates...commonly known as Amperage...EVEN, under heavy Mechanical Loads ...So, there will NOT be the fluctuations of 150 to 170 Amps values when running our Generator Heads under heavier loads...

Asymmetrical Motors are Pulsed Machines, even running with linear-straight feed, we get a Frequency reading at its Outputs...so, it is very obvious that Feeding them at Pulsed Rates...will make this Machine perform MUCH BETTER.


Controlling In-Out Flows:


Once that we start pulsing this Machines Inputs, We could "Read" their traveling frequencies through either one of their output gates...then we could "feed back" that Data to our Input Drivers, to establish a correct and more robust Communication Protocol Network between Machine Response and Drivers Execution Commands....that Exchange of Information will navigate within a closed loop of Data Signals....maintaining a very accurate performance and highly responsive operation control.

And that...is our main goal...for ANY Application we intend them to perform for...


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Rear Bearing

What is the size of the bearing to be replaced in the Imperial motor? I might as well order some before I get mine.

Cheers!
Cole

EDIT: So the solenoid is pulsed by the oscillator circuit, opening and closing for every pulse and relaying that pulse to the motor?

Hello Cole,

The Rear Bearing is the one I have replaced, due to its size related to Shaft-weight ratio of our conversion... (I have posted this like two times by now in previous pages)

The number on my box is :

NTN 6203LLH C3

It is a High Speed Bearing, rated at 18,000 RPM's.

Yes, Solenoid is doing what a FET would...but much better isolated...read previous post...will widen the explanation/concept.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Electromagnetic Pulse Switch, Parallel In Dual Gates 36V

Hello to All,


On this Video I am feeding Motor through the EPS (Electromagnetic Pulsed Switch), Input connections at P1-P15 in Parallel, Motor Output Open (Not Connected)

Electromagnetic Pulse Switch, Parallel In Dual Gates 36V - YouTube

Putting Load Stress on Motor to observe very low rises of Amperage, note the Tach RPM's decrease under pressure from wood...
I am testing at ranges from 4200 to 3000 RPM's, which is the required scope within our Generator Head.

Note the Stress I am applying to Motor, based on RPM decrease...
Please note the Amperage while I am doing this mechanical load pressure to Motor.
Look at Battery Voltage Drop...as also after test is completed, watch it recuperate to almost same as beginning.

I base all my conclusions and posts I write here... on my Real Testing like this one shown above... there is absolutely nothing like a Real Test to proof what I am claiming here.

I absolutely do not like to "assume" nor "Theorize" about absolutely nada...IF I am not sure off it.

There will be more testing about this Pulsed Feed...


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

Hi Ufo,
thanks for posting! Now it gets reallllly interesting! Thanks
JohnS

[Lightworker1]

Hello UFO, all,

I will try the spark gap after I have this running.

So far the rotor has been re-wound to 12P-4S-4B config. (12Poles-4Stators-4Brushes). The 4x magnets have been mounted and all I need to make now are the brush holders.

For the generator (like a tiny Mecc Alte), I will make a pancake coil generator with 6x neo magnets on both sides of the coils, total 12x magnets & 6x coils.

Building this motor has been a pleasant experience for me cuz I learned a lot! Thanks!

Lester

Hello Lester, neat and beautiful open frame for your motor project.
I will appreciate greatly if you can share your methodology as to how you go about and what kind of machines you use.



Warmest regards

light

[Lester444]

Hello Lester, neat and beautiful open frame for your motor project.
I will appreciate greatly if you can share your methodology as to how you go about and what kind of machines you use.



Warmest regards

light

Hello Light,

The acrylic sheets are rough cut on a table saw using a fence then a sled. Of course you can cut by hand although that is rather risky because acrylic is brittle.

After rough cutting I use a drill press fitted with a cross vise. To make the edges straight and true I use an end mill (6mm) on the drill press and the edges given a pass while clamped on the vise. The material is acrylic so it's very easy to mill. It will also take super glue very well.

To make large holes, a wood board is fitted with a vertical dowel 6mm diameter. The acrylic is then drilled with a 6mm hole for the center and placed onto the dowel and rests on the board. The wood board is clamped onto the drill press' table, with the acrylic free to rotate. I then use an end mill (3mm) to cut the large circle by rotating the acrylic using the dowel as the center. Shallow cuts, several passes round and round. Same method for circular pieces. It's easy once you get the hang of it.

The sizes I mentioned are all in metric and by no means final. This is just to give you an idea about the tool bit sizes I used. Use whatever you can get from where you are.

Threading is done by hand using hand tap, all are M3 threads.

That's all you need and good luck with your build!

Lester