My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Hello John,

Hi Lightworker,
great setup! I like it, you are inventive!
Hopefully setup can be scaled up.
You will get the coil and cap oscillating and thus quite high voltage.
If you align bisectors and block turning you can pulse the respecive coil and check the oscillation frequency and overvoltage before.
Please check if you can add some protecting diodes P6KE82CA.
If you have space you can add two SMD LEDs antiparallel in order to see optically if the overvoltage takes place.
JohnS

Hello John,

Could You specify how would the LED's be connected related to Coil-Caps in Parallel?
I guess you mean to connect Positive from LED to Negative of Parallel Input, and Negative from LED Diode to Positive...am I correct?

It is a great idea John.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Kukulcangod

Hello UFO@all:

Very interesting stuff lately, I want to make a bigger set up, with pulser and big motors, and have a couple of questions:

Motors from vertical top load machines would work? I'm waiting to get the go to extract them from the dumpster at my apt. complex they also have dishwasher machine ones which I''ve seen and look more like a combo of pump and motor.
Also, how can we make the radio shacks or my motor work with regular AA batteries? say to use in remote control cars or so?

In regards to star of David star I don't have much respect for the name for it was taken from former egyptian and Mayan/aztec technology, assuming you believe we have been visited and given this technology, look into David Hamel's designs, also I can tell you that by being all over the Mexican sites, the energy can be felt by sensitive people, not to mention get a shock of radiant energy from and Olmec Head named "la cabeza de Hueyepan" which needed to be oriented north south and is made of piezoelectric materials, The Aztec calendar is a multidimensional plan to make free energy perpetual movement machines, the star of david fits perfectly in it and is also equivalent to egyptian writtings, book of the dead has a drawing equivalent to the codex feyervary Mayer in Mexico. I have made the 3 cones or Djed type one at small scale which like the rock gave an energy shock ....I was a kid when the Olmec head delivered this cold numbing energy....Forever changing my life...To the ones of you not believing for it wasn't the end of the world, please learn how we have been saved...For we have always been observed ....Check on Nassim Haramein's conferences, Hey, I bow to no man, and the guy might be to commercial but his evidence is compelling, that being said my respects to all you fellow experimenters and of course you UFO.
The water traps o rankine tube have cure me producing this energy, radiant or bioenergy as you might want to call it.
Thank you much for sharing your discovery.
Hope the newbies like me could benefit from my bumpy attemp at explaining my set ups.

Here my contribution:

4 UFOPOLITICS ASYMMETRIC MOTOR. VOLTS AND AMPS, OVERUNITY WI - YouTube

One more video uploading as well

Best Regards

KUKULCAN

Hello Kukulcangod!

Great video, nice!

Now, on your output you are getting those Amps fluctuations due to Pulsed DC Currents going on there...
I recommend you add some 10 uF Caps...or larger...but rated over voltage...like 50V in your testing set up would be fine.
If You have two little Caps of same Capacitance-Voltage...then add one on each end...Input-Output.
Caps will "Stabilize" Amperage...Some say they "Filter"...and they do...filter also from higher current spikes, but here we are stabilizing, setting equal levels on Amperage.

Related to OU... ...You know you will attract many skeptic comments (You already score some in your YT Channel..
But you eventually get more...

Now, IF You could add a Couple of more Meters to your Power Source...showing your Input Voltage and Amperage...THEN, that would be "Indisputable"...
Then show the calculations on screen text ...VXI=Watts (In)...and VXI=Watts (Out)

And of course...whenever You pulse this little machine...it will be even better results.

Related to Top Load Machines-Motors...You ask if they would be good for Modification...I am not familiar with them...could you share some pictures from their rotors/commutators open?

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello UFO and THE GREATEST TEAM ON THE PLANET.

All are now putting in everything in time and effort.

What more more can I say as so many supporting sub-projects are running at the same time:
* Super Human R&D work on the Asymmetric Motor & Radiant Energy Technology by the team leader UFO.
UFO, you may be only sleeping 4 hours or less everyday in order to accomplish all that.
* Electronics Hardware Monster FET Controller - Sir John Stone
* Arduino Embedded Controller for the Asymmetric Motors - Nico
* Various Asymmetric Motors from small ones with two commutators to four commutators and all the way six commutators (Cornboy)
* Machinealive's super fast replication of the Imperial motor even when he is away from his lab
* Dana is already getting PCB ready
* Many others who are also contributing to this great R&D

From today I will just refer to as
"THE GREATEST TEAM ON THE PLANET"

Anyway, on the subject of ARMATURE COILS WITH CAPACITORS, here is the version I have assembled using the GOLDMINE 5 POLE DUAL PENTAGON ASYMMETRIC MOTOR WITH CAPACITORS some two weeks ago but didnot have suitable variable PSU.

I just ran a quick test using 12V DC and seems to run quite well. The Capacitors are 10uF 100V.

I just spent some time building variable PSU 0-36V. Hope to start tests on this motor very soon and see the behaviour of the FIVE-TANK-CIRCUITS within the 5-POLE-ARMATURE.




Completed Goldmine Asymmetric Motor



Good Luck All

Warmest Regards

light

Hello Light!

Great work there my friend!...that little thing is gonna fly...

Now, from my experience in smaller motors...I have added Caps...BUT they were 500V...Mica Caps (They look like a small Flat Disc)...and they DO NOT work...they blow short circuiting your coils...
So, through my research...I have found the ones that do work must be the Roll type...aluminum foil condensers...but unfortunately I could not find them that small.

In your Picture I can not distinguish which type they are...however I noted they are square...look like Metal Film...

I guess this has to do with the kind of Dielectric Material they have...when they go bad by shorting out...that means Dielectric melted due to the HV Spikes...

In my Torque Master I have the AC foil rolled...and they are 250V rated...I have run motor already and they work excellent...However, I ran it Straight/Linear DC with the fiberglass stator...not with the Magnets...and I want stator magnets and pulsing it...


Warm Regards my Dear Friend!


Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

.....Could You specify how would the LED's be connected related to Coil-Caps in Parallel?
...

Sure!

But please note this is an indicator only. If severe overvoltage occurs the LEDs will be overload (above about 40mA). Additional protection circuit on request.

Lightworker used SMD ceramic 100V 10µF multilayer caps. But that is not the end of technology: see Mouser
10µF 300V

[Cornboy 555]

Trying.

Hello UFO, and all, in reply to your post to me,( post # 3939, funny that ).

I feel that after going over & over what you said it will probably be a very important post for my understanding.

Put as simply as i can understand it, you are suggesting the best way to drive the MAG3 is to pulse one pair of stator coils, simultaniously with one brush gate, each having it's own JS pulse module, but sent the exact same signal from out pin of arduino so can be totally adjustable by computer, Right?

So six JS modules, from three out pins from arduino? and another three modules later maybe, when i fully understand what it is i'm doing?

If that is correct, no sweat, that type of technology is in place in our fuel injected gas guzzelers, and very reliable, it will just be a steep learning curve for me is all.

Understand about balancing magnetic strength with rotor and stator, the governing factor will be the amount of wire i can fit in rotor, and will go from there.


BTW, UFO, i will just be paying your debt to MACHINE for you, but just this once you can have 110% commision OK.


I love Music and born in the Fifties am a rock-roller, and drums are my favorite, but i don't look like a Mosfet.

Get the point about the stator secondaries, i do like the green forest a lot.

Anyway UFO please let me know if i'm on the right page, so i can order pulser parts and arduino.

Warm regards Friend,
Cornboy.

[Ufopolitics]

You are there...

Hello UFO, and all, in reply to your post to me,( post # 3939, funny that ).

I feel that after going over & over what you said it will probably be a very important post for my understanding.

Yes indeed it is an important post...I know you are making copies of all of them...and stacking them all in a "Yellow Folder"...Don't worry...it is my Remote Vision working...

Put as simply as i can understand it, you are suggesting the best way to drive the MAG3 is to pulse one pair of stator coils, simultaneously with one brush gate, each having it's own JS pulse module, but sent the exact same signal from out pin of arduino so can be totally adjustable by computer, Right?

So six JS modules, from three out pins from arduino? and another three modules later maybe, when i fully understand what it is i'm doing?

I believe You already know what we are doing here...and Yes, basically and very briefly that's it...
Another three more Modules for Your coming Secondaries to Propulse the Turbo Six Pack......Perfect!

If that is correct, no sweat, that type of technology is in place in our fuel injected gas guzzelers, and very reliable, it will just be a steep learning curve for me is all.

Understand about balancing magnetic strength with rotor and stator, the governing factor will be the amount of wire i can fit in rotor, and will go from there.

That is correct, yes.

BTW, UFO, i will just be paying your debt to MACHINE for you, but just this once you can have 110% commision OK.

I believe Machine got tired of waiting for my payment/your payment...He already send me to a Collection Agency...

I love Music and born in the Fifties am a rock-roller, and drums are my favorite, but i don't look like a Mosfet.

So do I...I am a Drummer...Neil Peart from RUSH...really is an Amateur...compared to Me...

Rush - Tom Sawyer - Live in Holland - YouTube



In My Dreams ONLY...

Get the point about the stator secondaries, i do like the green forest a lot.

Glad You do!!...(it was about time!!!... ... )

Anyway UFO please let me know if i'm on the right page, so i can order pulser parts and arduino.

Warm regards Friend,
Cornboy.

Right Page Cornboy


Warm Regards


Ufopolitics

[nico8k]

Cheap variable PSU

I just spent some time building variable PSU 0-36V.

Hi Lightworker, some time ago I was exactly where are you now (I guess ) ... searching for a high amp variable voltage PSU to feed our motors.
My goal was 0-50/60v 0-30A variable, I searched for comercial PSUs but were very expensive, I found some circuits on the web but none works like I wanted or were very complex for me.
JohnStone help me a lot on this search... Thanks!
The cheapest and easiest solution I found was using 4 PC ATX PSU connected in series. One PSU is connected normally to mains and the others are ground isolated (floating) like batteries.
And to make it kind variable y choose to use connectors from 3.3v, 5v and 12v, this way I can link one output to the ground of next PSU an so on. (take a look at pic). Finished now I realize that taking output from 3.3v it is no necessary.
One interesting feature using this PSUs is that we can use multiple outputs at same time (ie. feeding 5V to arduino and 12,24,36,48 to motors)

Here some links:
24V ATX Bench Power Supply
This are to make it variable:
Modification of PC supply AT / ATX to a regulated 3-15V supply
Fully Regulated ATX Power Supply - BOGIN, JR.

Hope this may help some newbie!

Regards

Nico

[iankoglin]

Hi,
you need all files to be namend MD V5..... I will post the complete set (except the manual - coming soon) after I return from work and then all of you may enter the arena......
But please note: it is a prerelease up to the time 3 replications running well. I myself will do one of those replications.

@ALL:
1. Think in trems of functional blocks and understand them! Please build the curcuit step by step and test with low power inbetween thoroughly: Voltge regulators - test -opto - test - logic gate circuitry - test - FET driver - test - FETs - test - FET protection ciruitry - test
then
drive a car bulb with 12V first - test - ad coil - test - increase voltage - test ...........

2. Strongly recommended for getting data sheets / sources / prices: octoparts (thanks Inadianaboys for hint!)

@4lpha1: Do not waste your time trying to jump 3 floors at once. Build a scare before and advance step by step. I myself dream constantly to have a car running by a selfrunner but I would be totally happy to have a selfrunner first while earning 200mW free electricity - first.

G'Day John
I really appreciate all your work and the sleepless nights you must have endured in designing this controller please thanks to your wife and family from us for lending you to us.

Just one question though I have 100/ 10uf 50v and 100/ 100nf 50v would these be OK or should I get the exact component I imagine that these 50v ones loaded to 20volts would hold only about 40% of the required capacity

Kindest Regards


Still learning and wanting to do things right

[Lightworker1]

Hello Light!

Great work there my friend!...that little thing is gonna fly...

Now, from my experience in smaller motors...I have added Caps...BUT they were 500V...Mica Caps (They look like a small Flat Disc)...and they DO NOT work...they blow short circuiting your coils...
So, through my research...I have found the ones that do work must be the Roll type...aluminum foil condensers...but unfortunately I could not find them that small.

In your Picture I can not distinguish which type they are...however I noted they are square...look like Metal Film...

I guess this has to do with the kind of Dielectric Material they have...when they go bad by shorting out...that means Dielectric melted due to the HV Spikes...

In my Torque Master I have the AC foil rolled...and they are 250V rated...I have run motor already and they work excellent...However, I ran it Straight/Linear DC with the fiberglass stator...not with the Magnets...and I want stator magnets and pulsing it...


Warm Regards my Dear Friend!


Ufopolitics

Hello UFO about the capacitors, I was really challenged to try this type Inductor-Capacitor arrangement in our this small asymmetric motor.

Because of this burning desire, in this goldmine motor I decided try out the concept at any cost, even if it runs for some time but will enable some learning curve.

Anyway after a great deal of search I found these capacitors that will just fit in the motor.
I bought these from www.newark.com

Capacitor Data

TDKC5750X7S2A106M
Image is for illustrative purposes only.
Please refer to product description

Manufacturer: TDK
Newark Part Number: 90R8365
Manufacturer Part No: C5750X7S2A106M

Technical Data Sheet (22.85KB) EN

Product Information

CAPACITOR CERAMIC, 10UF, 100V, X7S, 20%, 2220
Capacitance: 10µF
Capacitance Tolerance: ± 20%
Dielectric Characteristic: X7S
Voltage Rating: 100V
Capacitor Case Style: 2220 [5650 Metric]
Capacitor Terminals: SMD
RoHS Compliant: Yes


If some interesting results show up during the testing phase, I will try to extend this concept over to the imperial motor later.

For now the testing phase is planned as follows:
1. DC Voltage incrementing initially to speed up the motor up to 10,000 RPM.
According to the quick calculation, there should be resonance in the region of 2-to-3 kHz

2. Pulsed testing next.

3. Food For Thought: If the resonance shows up, then should there be a considerable build up of resonance frequency band at the output terminals of this motor?

For now keep my fingers crossed. (lol)

Warmest regards my dear friend

light

[Cornboy 555]

Carefull.

Hello UFO about the capacitors, I was really challenged to try this type Inductor-Capacitor arrangement in our this small asymmetric motor.

Because of this burning desire, in this goldmine motor I decided try out the concept at any cost, even if it runs for some time but will enable some learning curve.

Anyway after a great deal of search I found these capacitors that will just fit in the motor.
I bought these from www.newark.com

Capacitor Data

TDKC5750X7S2A106M
Image is for illustrative purposes only.
Please refer to product description

Manufacturer: TDK
Newark Part Number: 90R8365
Manufacturer Part No: C5750X7S2A106M

Technical Data Sheet (22.85KB) EN

Product Information

CAPACITOR CERAMIC, 10UF, 100V, X7S, 20%, 2220
Capacitance: 10µF
Capacitance Tolerance: ± 20%
Dielectric Characteristic: X7S
Voltage Rating: 100V
Capacitor Case Style: 2220 [5650 Metric]
Capacitor Terminals: SMD
RoHS Compliant: Yes


If some interesting results show up during the testing phase, I will try to extend this concept over to the imperial motor later.

For now the testing phase is planned as follows:
1. DC Voltage incrementing initially to speed up the motor up to 10,000 RPM.
According to the quick calculation, there should be resonance in the region of 2-to-3 kHz

2. Pulsed testing next.

3. Food For Thought: If the resonance shows up, then should there be a considerable build up of resonance frequency band at the output terminals of this motor?

For now keep my fingers crossed. (lol)

Warmest regards my dear friend

light

Hello Light, great work, and enthusiasm, thanks.

Please make sure those caps are tightly secured for 10,000 RPM, or you may have a mess to clean up.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[esesenergy]

UFO,in your fiberglass generator,would it be better to cnc an aluminum stator with little round holes in it and then epoxy some n52 magnets?

[JohnStone]

..... Just one question though I have 100/ 10uf 50v and 100/ 100nf 50v would these be OK or should I get the exact component I imagine that these 50v ones loaded to 20volts would hold only about 40% of the required capacity....

Hi,
thanks for your kind word. It is a pleasure if one knows to do right things at right time. That gives you wings taking you to anywhere!

Your question regarading capacitors is smart!!!! But unfortunately facts are different. "Farad" relates to the charge that cap can store for one volt. That is a normalization in order to prevent anybody from pondering on the question you asked (but very smart one). A 10µF capacitor is allways a 10µF capacitor indifferntly how much it is charged. Imagine a tank of 10l it will be one of 10l indifferntly if empty or full.
If your 10µF / 50V caps fit mechanically - use them! Very similar at 100nF ones. But those shall be of ceramic type. Electrolitic ones are too slow in their reaction. The difference is like rabbit and hedgehock.

You got 100? You might connect the surplus ones in series and parallel in order to get more Volt and more µF (MMC capacitors). An array of 5 by 5 will give 250V / 10µF. An array of 5 by 10 will give 250V / 20µF. Just in case you need such values.
JohnS

[JohnStone]

Some notions regarding paralleled caps:
If we imagine it in slow motion we get this scenario:

• brushes making contact to coil/cap assembly
• cap sucks all current available out of the battery
• while cap charging voltage increases
• Due to the cap sucking current the current in the coil increses delayed.
• Due to rotation of the armature the time left for current increase is less than before
• As long current inceases no socillations expected.

Hint:
- Leads serve as resistance and inductance and thus reduce the charge current of rotating caps. A severe cap outside(ceramic paired with electrolitic) at motor feed will boost charging cap and get current increase in coil sooner.
- In fact we get increased energy input at our motors if using rotating caps.

• brushes opening contact
• coil current intends to continue flowing while charging cap
• due to cap sucking current -> no sparking at brushes observable
• coil boosts voltage adding to the voltage of rotating cap (fly wheel effect)
• increased voltge spike observable
• cap continuing charging by coil
• At peak voltage at cap - current reverses - oscillations might start depending on presets -> see below
  -If oscillations of tank circuit are considerably lower than traveling time inside the motor we might get very advantageous conditions.
  - Without caps we get oscillations as well but considerably higher frequency beause the system accounts for inherent interwinding cap only being minute. If that is true - depending on the exact timing we get at output brushes all energy out positive, negativ or nothing - bounce effects occure.

Hint:
- Those notions above relate to behaviour of hot electricity.

Speculations:
- I have no idea how SHE feels at oscilalting electricity. Positive pulses are told to attract HER, higher voltage spikes as well. If output brushes get positive pulses this might please HER.
- Maybe the caps being well tuned to rpm -> enable constant flow to output brushes conversely to chaotic oscillations before.

Ok. No Idea if the notions above can help. I expressed in slow motion what I feel to happen there. We need to know the corresponding actions taking place in realm of cold energy. But there my notions are non existent up to now.
Nevertheless I hope you got an idea on where to look to and what to measure.
JohnS

[Ufopolitics]

Hello UFO about the capacitors, I was really challenged to try this type Inductor-Capacitor arrangement in our this small asymmetric motor.

Because of this burning desire, in this goldmine motor I decided try out the concept at any cost, even if it runs for some time but will enable some learning curve.

Anyway after a great deal of search I found these capacitors that will just fit in the motor.
I bought these from www.newark.com

Capacitor Data

TDKC5750X7S2A106M
Image is for illustrative purposes only.
Please refer to product description

Manufacturer: TDK
Newark Part Number: 90R8365
Manufacturer Part No: C5750X7S2A106M

Technical Data Sheet (22.85KB) EN

Product Information

CAPACITOR CERAMIC, 10UF, 100V, X7S, 20%, 2220
Capacitance: 10µF
Capacitance Tolerance: ± 20%
Dielectric Characteristic: X7S
Voltage Rating: 100V
Capacitor Case Style: 2220 [5650 Metric]
Capacitor Terminals: SMD
RoHS Compliant: Yes


If some interesting results show up during the testing phase, I will try to extend this concept over to the imperial motor later.

For now the testing phase is planned as follows:
1. DC Voltage incrementing initially to speed up the motor up to 10,000 RPM.
According to the quick calculation, there should be resonance in the region of 2-to-3 kHz

2. Pulsed testing next.

3. Food For Thought: If the resonance shows up, then should there be a considerable build up of resonance frequency band at the output terminals of this motor?

For now keep my fingers crossed. (lol)

Warmest regards my dear friend

light

Hello Light,

Well, I do not blame Your desires to test this set up...same way here...

I tell You, we will get a lot more "compensated" (if that could be the right word...) Energies at Output...

I will also cross my fingers for your test...and pray...

Now, I would proceed with a bit of Caution when feeding up linear/straight DC first...I would even use a Potentiometer...not to apply a full blast feed at once...and of course...start with lower voltage to Higher....check caps temp...with IR Temp Meter...

When I tested the smaller motor (like yours...a 550 body)...but it was a three pole...for some reason one of the coils fried to crispy dark brown (toasted, well done)...while the other two did not...all three caps were shorted....I tell you Motor flew while on...
That is why I suggest to take it easy...


Warm Regards Light and a Great Testing!!!



Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Fiberglass Generator?

UFO,in your fiberglass generator,would it be better to cnc an aluminum stator with little round holes in it and then epoxy some n52 magnets?

Hello Esesenergy,

I guess You meant the Fiberglass Stator?
You could do it in Aluminum...I believe it will be even better...since Aluminum is a Paramagnetic Material...and a heck of a Heat Sink.

Related to insert Magnets (Neo's 52)...depends, if what you are looking for is a Static Typical Stator is ok...but if you are going to Pulse Stator...I do not see the point of magnets...


Regards


Ufopolitics