My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Donald Haas]

Followup question

[QUOTE=Ufopolitics;224887]Hello Donald!


[IMG][/IMG]



" In order that the opposite firing Pair to P2 on graphic, or Pair (P10) shares only one pole above one below... "

Hi UFO,
Thanks for spending some time to reduce my ignorance.
I don't understand the above quote. P10 and P4 appear to be opposite to me. When you say "one pole above one below" are you talking about poles between the stator mag gaps?

Don't take a lot of time with this. If I'm in the dark I'll go back and study.

Thanks,

Donald

[4lpha1]

Success! Sort of...

So I wound my motor, clamped the case down and aligned it the best I could, and it sort of works. It doesn't start unless I give it a push, and it gets very hot while running. I know there was an answer to why this happens posted earlier, but it is very time-consuming to filter through this thread in order to find specific answers, so could someone help me out?

I connected it to a 12V motorcycle battery with a 1.8kohm resistor on the generator side. Each coil has a resistance of 2.2-2.3ohms.

The motor is wound with 32 turns of 27 AWG, and it is the Goldmine motor. This is the second one I built, and it has the commutator properly aligned.

EDIT: So I was getting way too much current through the wires. Adding a resistor now; 40ohms should put me at 0.3amps, which is roughly the stall current of the original motor.

[4lpha1]

There were some casualties during the construction process. The machine shop workers at my school were kind enough to press my original shafts out for me.



First soldering job.







Clamped until I can glue them together. JB Weld is okay to use for the case, right? Just not the armature.

[Donald Haas]

[QUOTE=Donald Haas;224922]

Hello Donald!


[IMG][/IMG]



" In order that the opposite firing Pair to P2 on graphic, or Pair (P10) shares only one pole above one below... "

Hi UFO,
Thanks for spending some time to reduce my ignorance.
I don't understand the above quote. P10 and P4 appear to be opposite to me. When you say "one pole above one below" are you talking about poles between the stator mag gaps?

Don't take a lot of time with this. If I'm in the dark I'll go back and study.

Thanks,

Donald

Hey UFO,
I 2d cadded the 16 pole 2 brush setup and saw that if I grab 5 poles per coil side, then the coil /stator mag relationship is identical to the 12 pole 2 brush setup. Pole wise it is 10 and 6 but, for example the 6 poles on the 16pole setup take the same amount of room as 4 on the 12 pole.
I shall go for it.

Unless you command me not to.

bro d

[iankoglin]

Ian
I got some hedges from the local motor repair place and also they gave me a large flat sheet of the stuff before I left. After having to re-bend a few and cut them down, I realized that it was faster to just use the flat stuff and cut them as I needed. I feel that it worked well and still have enough for two more motors of any size from that one flat sheet.
Dana

G'Day Dana
Thanks for the Info I also got some from the local(110klms away) motor rewind shop from a chap named Gary he said he uses the flat sheet because he just cuts the sheets to whatever size he wants when I was discussing what I was using them for he just could not understand why UFO was trying to increase the unloaded speed so high for the P56 motor he told me the real speed for 110Htz and 240Hts was no where near what UFO was trying to obtain but I am sure you saw UFO explanation of that. Also Gary said that he has not any experience with DC motors as he only learned and qualified with AC motors. He was really interested in what I was doing/learning and said I have a good start on a lot of people as I do not have to unlearn the things to be able to grasp the idea of what I was explaining to him.
Probably the next time I see him is when I drive my Trycyle down to show him.

Kindest regards
Kogs {looks like no one really understands my signature}


Looks like I dont have many friends here as most here call me Ian where as all my friends call me Kogs

[4lpha1]

So my motor runs very well off of the 12V motorcycle battery, even better off of a 22V drill battery. It gets very hot, though, due to the 5+amps it draws through the essentially short circuit and as soon as I add any resistor it ceases to work. I only have resistors in the kohm range, none below 1.2kohm. It seems like one around 40ohms should work (12V, 0.3A), but I have none that small and no way to easily make an equivalent one. I tried using a series of small 9V disposable batteries, but no dice. Adding a capacitor in parallel with the input brushes makes the motor run faster, but does little to cool it down.

The only load I have on the generator side is a 1.2kohm resistor, I don't see a problem with that but I could be wrong.

Any input?

Cheers!
Cole

[JohnStone]

So my motor runs very well off of the 12V motorcycle battery, even better off of a 22V drill battery. It gets very hot, though, due to the 5+amps it draws through the essentially short circuit and as soon as I add any resistor it ceases to work. I only have resistors in the kohm range, none below 1.2kohm. It seems like one around 40ohms should work (12V, 0.3A), but I have none that small and no way to easily make an equivalent one. I tried using a series of small 9V disposable batteries, but no dice. Adding a capacitor in parallel with the input brushes makes the motor run faster, but does little to cool it down.

The only load I have on the generator side is a 1.2kohm resistor, I don't see a problem with that but I could be wrong.

Any input?

Cheers!
Cole

Hi Cole,
what about using some 12V bulbs from vehicles?
John

[4lpha1]

In series with the motor, or as a load, or both? I'll try that.

[kukulcangod]

Overunity and motor failure

Hello Kukulcangod!

Great video, nice!

Now, on your output you are getting those Amps fluctuations due to Pulsed DC Currents going on there...
I recommend you add some 10 uF Caps...or larger...but rated over voltage...like 50V in your testing set up would be fine.
If You have two little Caps of same Capacitance-Voltage...then add one on each end...Input-Output.
Caps will "Stabilize" Amperage...Some say they "Filter"...and they do...filter also from higher current spikes, but here we are stabilizing, setting equal levels on Amperage.

Related to OU... ...You know you will attract many skeptic comments (You already score some in your YT Channel..
But you eventually get more...#

Now, IF You could add a Couple of more Meters to your Power Source...showing your Input Voltage and Amperage...THEN, that would be "Indisputable"...
Then show the calculations on screen text ...VXI=Watts (In)...and VXI=Watts (Out)

And of course...whenever You pulse this little machine...it will be even better results.

Related to Top Load Machines-Motors...You ask if they would be good for Modification...I am not familiar with them...could you share some pictures from their rotors/commutators open?

Regards


Ufopolitics

Hi All and Ufopolitics:

Thank you for taking the time to review my video and your suggestions will be followed, kind words appreciated, for I know my set up needs more correcting . About the motors I forgot to say they were from washing machines, I won't have the chance anyway to get them, they decided to used them as spare parts finally, just my luck. Regarding over unity I just couldn't believe it myself, I kept moving things to make sure I was getting the correct readings, I feel sure that it happened and the big difference was the magnets added to the setting and the lack of metal in proportion, for I observed the dramatic difference the magnets made after just attempting to keep my rotor centered horizontally and vertically...
DadHav was kinder later explaining why the diodes and leds would deliver false readings I thing he is right in that regard, but again, without them, the effect happened before my eyes, reason why I decided to protect my leds, and, it did occurred that when hooked up without protection they when ca-putt!!.

Now, I did applied more voltage and no metal again, but didn't take the time to properly center everything inside, this was proven fatal for the motor being at a delicate balance already with my fragile Frankenstein fix up of the set of cut brushes, one just when over a commutator connection and melted it down and the wire came loose the heat cooked inside the wires, the heat detached a brush making it fly inside the motor after heavy sparking of course, this motor had moderated heat before at all times...Yes I know ...Now "conveniently" the motor is fried..And others will think it is just a mistake etc. ... I tried to fix it but the brushes are way too damaged, need to buy another motor or brushes.... Will try the radio shacks then, but with joined rotors with larger shaft. So what kind of wire would you recommend for such a thing? and for use with the minimum battery size, and number? , also is it better 25 winding's than 50? I apologize for such insistence and my delay in being grateful for your expert feedback , I know your time must be limited and onto more exciting advanced projects but I'm also about to engaged in bigger motor build up, I'm trying to keep up with Sir John's brilliant design of a super pulsar, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MN0a...e_gdata_player

Here it is the proof of my mistake, started weird from the beginning but this time I couldn't correct it like last few times, I was so confident about its performance that I let my better judgement way forgotten , burning the motor as a result , will rebuild it somehow , I shall never easily quit..

Here we go thank you all....

.

[MORRIS86]

20090823173537 - YouTube

SPEC'S OF MOTOR (PDF) BELOW...It is not a 700W but a 750W Motor, 24V in "Symmetric Version"...



You guys tell me...


Regards


Ufopolitics

wow this video of the BOSCH motor is spectacular !!!as well as your graphic explanation of C EMF graphically illustrated in your videos, This is Jaw dropping stuff! I have been Open minded and very skeptical as well has being blinkered by closed systems for all my life .I swallowed academic explanations hook line and sinker all my life. This has broken the spell. will have to get more involved now and build one to confirm my new view on motors and generators. This is NOT freekin scifi. Boy have I been conned by my Physics and electronics books!!

[JohnStone]

In series with the motor, or as a load, or both? I'll try that.

Yes in series. A bulb is a resistor and will light up at certain amperage. Check some halide bulbs or car bulbs before at what amperage the filament start glowing. Decide for one being in teh amp area you want to load your motor. Then you have a neat indication if your motor runs fine or in overload. When glowing the filmant rises the resistance - thus you have a kind of resettable fuse!
JohnS

[MORRIS86]

wow this video of the BOSCH motor is spectacular !!!as well as your graphic explanation of C EMF graphically illustrated in your videos, This is Jaw dropping stuff! I have been Open minded and very skeptical as well has being blinkered by closed systems for all my life .I swallowed academic explanations hook line and sinker all my life. This has broken the spell. will have to get more involved now and build one to confirm my new view on motors and generators. This is NOT freekin scifi. Boy have I been conned by my Physics and electronics books!!

Sorry for the other enthusiasm Ufopolitics forgot my manners , much respect everybody , thanks for sharing your Information and practical insights .

If this turns out to be true and I am sure it is we will have to go back and visit J C Maxwells ORIGIONAL equations and 'dust off' the asymmetric components of his work, not seen the papers myself yet will have to find them . not so hot on quaternions though . Will build a "Toy" Machine to Confirm these Ideas to Myself.

[Ufopolitics]

Overheating...

So my motor runs very well off of the 12V motorcycle battery, even better off of a 22V drill battery. It gets very hot, though, due to the 5+amps it draws through the essentially short circuit and as soon as I add any resistor it ceases to work. I only have resistors in the kohm range, none below 1.2kohm. It seems like one around 40ohms should work (12V, 0.3A), but I have none that small and no way to easily make an equivalent one. I tried using a series of small 9V disposable batteries, but no dice. Adding a capacitor in parallel with the input brushes makes the motor run faster, but does little to cool it down.

The only load I have on the generator side is a 1.2kohm resistor, I don't see a problem with that but I could be wrong.

Any input?

Cheers!
Cole

Hello 4alpha,


This Machine are known by NOT overheating at all.
If Your Replication is doing it,could be due to:

1- A high mechanical drag, due to misalignment of either bushings, shaft or body.
2- Bad Timing due to: Incorrect set at brushes, misalignment of commutators or too low resistance in Coils.

You have to measure the exact area, where the heat is being generated by applying a nice directed by LASER and Infrared Temp Sensor...

You must understand very clear the Bisector Timing Alignment between Stators and Firing Interval Timing of Pairs or Coils.

If the timing is too ahead, meaning, bisectors too far apart, motor would be weaker and will get hotter.

On the other hand,

Why do you have to put a resistor at Output?

Have you tried to run it without that output resistor...and see if it still heats up?

It is obvious you have not read all my previous posts, where I mention that NO DIRECT SHORTED LOAD should be applied in small motors (small number of poles) to Output gates.

This Machines ALL, have Intermittent Short Circuit, NOT Constantly at 100% of times during operation like Symmetrical Motors. And that is a huge difference.



Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

It's Ok Morris, Welcome!

Sorry for the other enthusiasm Ufopolitics forgot my manners , much respect everybody , thanks for sharing your Information and practical insights .

If this turns out to be true and I am sure it is we will have to go back and visit J C Maxwells ORIGIONAL equations and 'dust off' the asymmetric components of his work, not seen the papers myself yet will have to find them . not so hot on quaternions though . Will build a "Toy" Machine to Confirm these Ideas to Myself.

Hello and Welcome Morris,

That Scooter BOSCH Motor Carries me super fast with a 36 LiPo Pack...that I can stick in my pocket...and then carry ten of them as spare in the compartment space where the Lead Acid Batteries used to be...

Unfortunately Symmetry was the 'locked in time' model for too long...and We all were completely ignorant of its incredible possibilities...not yet revealed or discovered in its entirety.

This is just the beginning, the Dawn of a New Era...

Open Systems allow many, but I mean MANY possibilities of exchange between Stators, Rotor Coils...as between Generators and Motor Assemblies...that We could be here for a very long time trying to "catch up" all the wasted time, that we all spent dealing and learning from just one very inefficient Model...


Regards and Welcome...and hoping this encourages you and many others to replicate this Designs, and see it with your own eyes.


Ufopolitics

[valllhalla]

WoW! Just Imagine.. Just imagine.. :

Winding of an Electric DC Motor - YouTube