My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[JohnStone]

Hi ALL;
as I am resticted in motor building for some time I spend free time in digging into OU theories and replications.
Most sources state we need to have a high effitiency machine before in order to produce radiant. SHE will not visit other places. In so far UFOs motor is one of those great machines being given to the world freely. It is vauable in itself for higher effiecency - but this machine is not OU in itself and never will be (my feeling). It is a suitable platform for growing it up.
I am surpised that harvesting RE seems to relate very strongly to theories and curent practice RF engineers know (unfortunately I am not RF educated - is there any out there?). In optics they apply OU effects and nobody bothers. They could feed some valuable details as well. Qunta mechanic science knows OU - 2 American scintists got Nobel award 1952 for proving broken symmetry.
But if we look at standard electromagentic scince they are frozen since 130 years.
I confess I do not understand more than 5% of those scientific papers just now. But those 5% are a pale light showing direction to go.

OU can not be harvested from one single stage. First stage are those high effitiency machines stirring whatever the source of OU is.
Electricity is told to emanate in 9 different ways and we know and master just one. All those emanations relate to each other.
Imagine a tetrahedron. All edges and vertivces are related and can not be modified without affecting the other (we know just one vertex).
So please comprehend known electricity as just one emanation of a mesh network of energy a plurality of energy states.
Thus we can understand that OU is based on transformations of those emanations being given by creation but ignored by mankind. Imagine those 3 basic colors. If they interact they emanate as other color (transformation) - but the originals ones are present and need to be.
Additional to transformation we need to povide a isolation in order to prevent reactions to the source like known at normal transformers. Secondary load current opens the primary door in order to drain energy at primary side. In fact this energy is lost and will never surfice on secondary side.

Do not believe we need to just add some diodes and a cap in order to power our houses. We will not succeed with shortcuts - we ned to obey natural laws. But once understood and tested out it will be much more feasible to spread this technology all over the world.
JS

[shylo]

connection

@cornboy, The transformers (X's) I have are just salvaged from scrap appliance's.I can't remeber what it even came out of. But it has 3 wires coming out the top on one side and 2 wires coming out the bottom on the other. The 3 are 2 yellow and a black I connect one yellow to the brush lead ,the other yellow connects to the commutator (but you have to be in the right location). Then connect the 2 on the other side to diodes and feed them into caps. The caps charge almost instantly and are discharged by using the black wire to feed either batteries or bank of super caps.
But am stiil trying different arrangements, adding more connections ,different X's , would like to try running cap pulses through water .
I think UFO's motor would be Ideal since you have twice as much commutator area.
shylo

[sampojo]

maximizing RE

Hi ALL;
Most sources state we need to have a high efficiency machine before in order to produce radiant.
JS

I have a friend who is a trained electrician for USN boomer submarines. He keeps saying that BEMF spikes last 5 decay time constants in a circuit before it can be said to be zero. A time constant is the half-life, I think, which is tied ti a circuit resonant frequency possibly, and must be figured out 1/lc or some-such, which is in my USN BUPERS Basic Electricity manual . Should any harvesting of this signal be couched somewhere in this time-frame? I believe so and that is the direction I hope to investigate soon by examining the generator output on an o-scope some time soon. From a typical test, running at 6v on the motor, I would get a nominal 4v on the generator. It also had typically an AC voltage riding on top, say 2.5v. I think the meter of course averages these voltage, and the AC would be an RMS measurement if I remember my college physics correctly. It is important to know if the signal goes completely negative in any oscillation. If so a FWBR to me is indicated.


Shylo, wow extremely interesting, hoping soon to get the big picture on integrating coils/transformers/motors. I just got my hands on a microwave transformer. Can you diagram your circuit?

@cornboy, The transformers (X's) I have are just salvaged from scrap appliance's.I can't remeber what it even came out of. But it has 3 wires coming out the top on one side and 2 wires coming out the bottom on the other. The 3 are 2 yellow and a black I connect one yellow to the brush lead ,the other yellow connects to the commutator (but you have to be in the right location). Then connect the 2 on the other side to diodes and feed them into caps. The caps charge almost instantly and are discharged by using the black wire to feed either batteries or bank of super caps.
shylo

Please indicate if you are stepping the voltage up or down as you go to the motor? With the 2 yellow wires on the input? I assume you have 2 options on step-up voltage ratios.

Here is a pic from the my-motors-got-me thread page 61 post 1813.


The pulser circuit I don't think is John's monster pulser or the one first posted by Ufo and revised by Black chisel, but gives me the insight of how cross the bridge from PWM for motor control and tapping the RE from a coil.

[JohnStone]

@cornboy, The transformers (X's) I have are just salvaged from scrap appliance's.I can't remeber what it even came out of. But it has 3 wires coming out the top on one side and 2 wires coming out the bottom on the other. The 3 are 2 yellow and a black I connect one yellow to the brush lead ,the other yellow connects to the commutator (but you have to be in the right location). Then connect the 2 on the other side to diodes and feed them into caps. The caps charge almost instantly and are discharged by using the black wire to feed either batteries or bank of super caps.
But am stiil trying different arrangements, adding more connections ,different X's , would like to try running cap pulses through water .
I think UFO's motor would be Ideal since you have twice as much commutator area.
shylo

Hi shylo,
would you please post a circuit diagram of your setup - can't imagine exactly what you talk of. It seems impotant to me. If you draw it in laymen's way -don't worry - I will help you to get it right.

@ALL: If you read .PDF documents and want to add comments and markings try freeware FOXIT. It wil be a great help if you try to find important paragraphs later on.
JS

[JohnStone]

@ALL
I decided to get you informerd about my studies. I will talk of elements and actions to be considered if we head to OU.
Just now I want to talk about magento-thermal effect. Remember: I talked in my last post, OU to be basically an energy transformation process among different points of energy emanations. Definitely no magic like getting a rabbit out of a hat.
In order to understand magneto thermal effects you should know some basics on magnetic behaviour of core materials.
We know that the more we megnetize a core the more magnetic flux we can expect to flow. There is something like OHM's law. Magnetic materials own a certain conductivity (reverse of resistance) - called permeability. It is related to the magnetic material and the processes it was treated before. We talk here especially of ferrous cores but it is related to any ferrite, black sand ....)
We know a typical resistor to be linear in behaviour - say the more voltage we apply the more current flows. If we look at the magentic flux in a core we find a nonlinear property as well.


Different materials might behave like diagram above. (BTW: This specific digram relates to high tech materials but it shows very neatly the basic nonlinear graph) The more we apply megnetic strength (x-axis) the more we get flux (y-axis).
Initially (starting from 0;0 point) the graph is about linear and any current motor or transformer is anxiously designed to remain in this linear area in order to comply with current design rules.
There is an understandable reason to this. If we enter in the non linear area the core will reduce its inductivity and thus excessive current can flow. (Remeber: inductivity is like inertia of a flywheel: Imagine a flywheel would loose mass at high rpm! It might accelerate up to selfdestruction easily driven by minute energy)
Now we will explore more implications of the nonliner area mentioned above. Those cores add another property we can compare to the viscoity of a fluid - like honey. Thus we need to enter energy if we magentize and we will loose enrgy if this fluid returns to the origin. It is reluctant to return to its origin. This behaviour is called: hysteresis

Study this digram and find the graph we want to have for our motors or transformers.
The facts mentioned above are state of the art knowledge, are true and are important for further understanding.
Now we look at the magic of the nonlinear area. Imagine we magnetize a core above linear area and up to the end of curved area but not into the horizontal part of the graph. Core material is now influenced by flux totally. Any further magnetic strength will not add much flux but lessen inductivity considerably.
Once again: The fact mentioned above is state of the art knowledge, is true and important for further understanding.

The good news is that in this area core materials enter a kind of meta stable state. Sudden resonant effects might arise if pulsed with correct frequency. Every coil, every core behaves different and needs to be tuned to its specific properties. Cores are told to squeal like a pig if hit correctly.
As side effect this special state is told to transform thermic energy in electric energy directly - a termo electric pump. This effect will occure if coil is tuned to high effitiency only (quality cores being not necessarly expensive and big wire diameter...). Ferrous cores are told to have a genuine resonant frequency of about 1.6 MHz. We need to find a suitable subharmonic.
NOTE: I talked here of sourcing energy only - harvesting is a separte matter. This kind of energy might be hidden to standard circuits.

The text above simplified facts in order to get a rough feeling for everybody on what this effect is about. Those facts comprise one possible building stone of a plurality of choices being available. I decided to report these facts in order to get a dim idea on what "material" OU is made of and why thorough study of simple setups is essential. My understanding or conclusions might be erroneous in some aspects but those effects mentioned are reported by science as well.

Lesson learned:

• Now we understand cooling effects being corroborated from E.Grey motor and other setups like VTA. Transformation is the key word.
• Pulsing coils is surely one way to return some energy back und make a motor more effitient. But without resonant effects reported above it very probably will not show energy gain.
• LC-combinations should be tuned to that genuine natural frequency of a certain setup (or subharmonic).
• Understand all of our current activity as basics only. There is more to it waiting to be explored.
• Suggstion: Our motors need to be tuned for a specific speed in order to enter that non liear area just before commutator switches off.
• We should look for frequency of natural self oscillation of our coils. (armature not moving as first step)
• Charging and discharging of an inductivity needs to be tuned as well (duty cycle) to those very specific conditions.
• Do not expect to attract HER by brute force amps. Tease HER gently but distinct in order to excite HER! Adapt to HER mood constantly.
• Do not expect OU by just tinkering with standard knowledge learned but be open minded and try to understand and combine valuable facts out of a heap of trush. Be Cinderella, Cenicienta, Cenerentola, Cendrillon, Aschenputtel or whatever your local tales name it!

[Cornboy 555]

Hmm.

@cornboy, The transformers (X's) I have are just salvaged from scrap appliance's.I can't remeber what it even came out of. But it has 3 wires coming out the top on one side and 2 wires coming out the bottom on the other. The 3 are 2 yellow and a black I connect one yellow to the brush lead ,the other yellow connects to the commutator (but you have to be in the right location). Then connect the 2 on the other side to diodes and feed them into caps. The caps charge almost instantly and are discharged by using the black wire to feed either batteries or bank of super caps.
But am stiil trying different arrangements, adding more connections ,different X's , would like to try running cap pulses through water .
I think UFO's motor would be Ideal since you have twice as much commutator area.
shylo

Hello Shylo, when you say other yellow lead connects to commutator, do you mean directly to copper bars by touching the wire end on comm? And when you say you need to be in the right location, do you mean that you phisically move the touching wire around the commutator, to get the best output?
Does the motor drop in RPM when you do this?

Regards Cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

In teresting.

Hello John Stone, and all, i also believe resonance will be a very important factor as we go forward with UFO's motor designs.

The most substantial stumbling block with this is that resonance will be in a very narrow RPM range, unless we can develop electronics to udjust inductance- capacitance etc, fed from sensors, to keep resonance stable.

One phisical way i can think of, that could help this situation, is to build the motors with large diameter rotors with heavy flywheels, which are high Torque and overbuilt for the application.

As i have posted before, to vary output speed to suit application ( like EV ) hydraulics already offer a solution.

This is very interesting stuff, thanks JS.

Regards Cornboy.

[iankoglin]

Here is a pic from the my-motors-got-me thread page 61 post 1813.


The pulser circuit I don't think is John's monster pulser or the one first posted by Ufo and revised by Black chisel, but gives me the insight of how cross the bridge from PWM for motor control and tapping the RE from a coil.

G'Day Sampojo

That circuit I believe is the one that UFO based his Controller on I just cannot put my hand on the exact post but it was one of his earlier ones but he is from Canada and his name is More
Kindest regards Kogs

Just trying to remember

[JohnStone]

Hi Cornboy,
yes resonance! But there is more to it! Stay tuned!
JS

[iankoglin]

G'Day Sampojo

That circuit I believe is the one that UFO based his Controller on I just cannot put my hand on the exact post but it was one of his earlier ones but he is from Canada and his name is More
Kindest regards Kogs

Just trying to remember

G'Day Sampojo
I spent some time to find the actual post

Here it is Page 5 Post #127

A Pulse Width Modulation Control


Spending time looking

[Ufopolitics]

Liquid Metal Contactors

Hello to All,

I have been very busy as I have stated before, however, I have not abandoned any of You...nor my projects...

Now...

It is a fact that by pulsing My Asymmetrical Machines the Input (draw) Amperage reduces in very high levels.

Many of Us who have been working on the Imperial Motor have seen the huge differences.

The problem lays on finding the right component that could "absorb" the huge arcing and deliver those pulses clean, loud and clear.

So far we need to try the Monster Driver from Sir John Stone, I do not have the means to get the parts at this moment, but I know that Machine Alive and Prochiro are working on this, so we will be all waiting eagerly to hear from you Guys... .

In the mean time I have used a Solenoid and I have obtained excellent results, as stated and shown in a Video posted here before. It is clearly observed that no matter how much mechanical "brake" I apply to Motor with the wood block...amperage will never raise like when feeding Motor linear...AND THIS IS EXACTLY what we all need in order to run the Mecc Alte Generator at the requested Torque/Speed ratios.

The problems I had, were the Solenoid contacts kept burning and ending up sticking (welding) together, just like when a FET blows shorting out...I have tried carbon points...but did not work...as the best results were a combination of Copper/Carbon, just like Commutator/Brushes at Solenoid contacts.


So I went back to Nikola Tesla work...


And, yes, indeed I found EIGHT Total Patents (Two Here)...(and Six More Here) related to Motor Controllers/Contactors/Commutators...and ALL were based on Liquid Metal(Mercury)...

Citing Tesla...


In the electrical system or combination of apparatus for the conversion of electrical energy by means of the discharges of a condenser invented and heretofore described by me the means employed for making and breaking* the electric circuit, though performing a subordinate function, may from the peculiar conditions which exist become a highly important consideration, not only as regards their practicability and durability, but also the economy in the operation of the system or apparatus. Of such importance is this consideration that for the most efficient and reliable operation of my said system I have found it necessary to devise special appliances for making and breaking the circuit which differ materially in construction and mode of operation from any previously-existing devices of this character of which I am aware. In the forms of such apparatus which I have produced at least one of the terminals is a conducting fluid, while the other is usually a solid conductor or series of conductors, both being preferably enclosed in a gas-tight receptacle and brought by rotary movement into rapidly intermittent contact. I have shown and described typical forms of such circuit-controllers in applications Serial No. 660,518, filed December 2, 1897; Serial No. 639,227, filed June 3, 1897, and Serial No. 671,897, filed February 28, 1898.

*"Making and Breaking" of a Circuit...meaning as to Open/Close...Switch, Pulse that circuit.


So, yes, Liquid Metal...used as a High Amperage Contactor, will always switch-rotate surfaces for new-clean contacts...Mercury Fusion ...meaning boiling...occurs at 356.73º C..cause it is already melted by nature...


Found out EPA have set a lot of restrictions on Mercury...use, distribution, manufacturing...devices...but, there is always -at least- one "Light"...shining somewhere...


Mercury Relays/Contactors, 30 to 100 Amp<br>MDI Mercury Relays | Mercury Relays | Marshall Wolf Automation, Inc.

Will get up to 100 Amps...understanding "linear/continuous feed"...absolutely, pulsing will "take" a bit more...however, We do not need over 100 Amps IF, We start first at a Linear feed till Motor lowers Amperage after braking inertia forces...


Of course we have to modify/replace the Coil...like I have posted before... A lower resistance Coil (1.0-2.0 Ohms), with an ultrafast flywheel diode to obtain steep pulses...We could even pulse this coil with 12V Oscillator...


I will post results soon...as also a Video on this set up.


Regards to all



Ufopolitics

[IndianaBoys]

Ufopolitics,

Thanks for dropping in and letting us know all is OK with you!

How about a Tungsten rivet contact:
Tungsten Rivet Electrical Contacts - Pleasant Prairie, Wisconsin - Norstan

or a

COLE HERSEE NEW 200 AMP SOLENOID WITH SILVER-TUNGSTEN CONTACTS
The improved contacts provide the best available conductivity, and are more weld-resistant than standard silver contacts.
200 Amp solenoids | Pro Pickup

Also:
A metal alloy that is liquid at room temperature.
Chapter 5: Thermodynamics -- A non-toxic liquid metal alloy mercury substitute
Maybe you could work out a way to substitute this in the place of mercury.

IndianaBoys

[shylo]

Thank-you

UFO , and Indi-boys, This is exacatly what I have been looking for,something that won't burn out I hope! I have to try this when I get time
Cornboy yes , but if the rpms drop your in the wrong location.
I've done many test runs where running the motor with the right connection,causes no extra draw on the supply, but allows you to gain stored power in caps.
John ,no time right now ,but will try to draw a diagram .It has changed a little from my earlier description, but is basically the same.
In my test's you can run the motor and use up supply life to preform work,but... while doing this you can get stored power as a by- product of the work being done.
I believe this can be expanded (free stored energy) by adding more X's.
When the flow starts ,there's a spike, when it stops there's a spike..just gotta catch it.
shylo

[sampojo]

Pentagon Y Wiring Replication

Hi Ufo and all, making some progress on learning wiring Got interested in the Pentagon Y wiring and its "mysterious" and "magical" happenings.

[QUOTE=Ufopolitics;206123]
Please allow me to introduce this excellent Asymmetrical Pattern...


[\QUOTE]

I took the liberty to reword the description as I dissected Ufo's instructios.

----------------------------------

This is an excellent Asymmetrical Pattern. It is displayed on a Five Pole Configuration, the simplest that can be used. It is scalable to higher poles structures base on the multiple of five. e.g. 10 or 20. It will deliver in the isolated electrical output a higher voltage than input, and has robust torque and high rpm performance. Ufopolitics has stated that due to it's higher degree of assymetry, it may have internal induction between coils or have a transformer effect between the rotating primary and secondar coil elements.

The main electromagnetic pattern per pair of coils is constructed in a "Y" architecture. It is very asymmetric since one coil of a pair is smaller than the second coil. In this graphic diagram, all the South poles are the small inner pentagon, and the North poles are located in the outer pentagon.

The coil pair winding technique for this pattern is more complicated than all other asymmetric patterns. Only one side of a coil pair may be wound at a time. All small inner halves of coil pairs must be wound, and then the larger coil halves are wound. The performance of this pattern is superior and will generate some extraordinary results. In order to wind the rotor, follow these steps.

1. First make 5 spools of magnet wire, one per coil pair. They may be numbered and coordinated to the winding instructions, such as spool 1 would belong to Pole 1. The gauge of the wire is selected dependent upon the design requirements of the motor under construction. For initial trial models using the Radio Shack core, the same gauge wire as the original motor (32ga. generally), about 12' of wire will fully fill the rotor and read 2-3 Ohms. Then transfer each wire onto separate spools. Before transferring the wire, measure the half way point of each piece and mark it with a piece of tape or paint. When winding divide the wire between coil pairs using this mark.
2. Number each armature pole as 1,2,3,4 and 5, as represented in diagram. When winding is commenced, each spool of wire will be marked and thus assigned to a pole. As the small coil halves are wound for each pole, and the first inner layer is completed, there will be five separate wires and spools dangling from the rotor. Without marking each spool with its pole assignment, it will be difficult to correctly wind the second coil pair layer, but using an ohmmeter for continuity checking will work well. After marking, we are ready to start winding.
3. Attach a wire stripping off the insulation at the point of attachment of the spool marked #1 to Upper Commutator Element P1 (Outer Commutator on Diagram) , then start winding Pole 1 CCW looking at front of Pole 1 (marked as P1 in Red on Diagram) . Wind as far down the pole close to shaft as possible in order to leave room for the second layer of North coils applied upon completion of the ALL South halves. Since the area faces of the coil pairs are different, the coils are still balanced since wire length of each half coil are equal Always keep in mind a second layer will need to be wound.
4. ALL 5 South coils are wound first CCW looking down on the pole as you wind the coil. Poles should be numbered and the strarting face of the rotor from which winding is commenced may be color coded to distinguish it from the rear face of the rotor. This will minimize confusion throughout the winding process. To explain the winding Illustration 1 below has a slightly different definition of terms in order to capture the process in print.
a. S – Slot with number, e.g. S1
b. C – Commutator element, front, with number, C1, C2, etc.
c. c – Commutator element, rear, c1, c2, etc.
d. P – Pole, P1, P2, etc
Using the diagram below to describe the winding of the first South pole, start at the top commutator, C5, and attach the magnet wire to it. Looking one pole clockwise to P1, commence winding CCW around the single pole until at the half way point of the wire. Stabilize the spool so it will not swing around as other poles are wound, otherwise the wire may fatigue and break. Wind all 5 poles, increasing the numbers of the poles and commutator equally to maintain the numerical relationship and winding geomtry for each coil. When at the last South pole, P5, bring the wire out the back face of the rotor along the shaft to slot S3 to start the North pole on pole P3 and wind now clockwise (CW) as one turns the the rotor around for winding, and capture a SECOND pole, P2 also. Wind remaining wire and attach to rear commutator element, c4. Repeat, changing increments of components to assure winding the proper poles at all times.



5. BRUSH ALIGNMENT: The Pentgon Y wiring has the brushes aligned exactly parallel to stator bisectors, or at the dead center of the magnetic fields of the magnets. This is not like the Asymmetric Radio Shack Motor Replication pattern, which required the brush positioning to be rotated 90 degrees.
6. Tuning for better performance: Brush line could be moved towards 1:00 O'clock until "Firing" N1 right centered between N-S Opening.
Overall it is very hard to work with smaller gauge wires without them fatiguing or accidentally stress one to the breaking point with the two step spool process.

----------------------------------------------------

I had to wind it almost completely twice to get it right. I couldn't get the RS 30ga red wire to fit, even though I shortened it a couple feet from my previous standard winding replication, and I broke a wire due to fatigue as I went for the second layer. No where near 4 ohms. Went to 32ga, fit good, ~12', 2.5ohm. Gave myself more room between the commutator and the rotor, 1/8" total, couldn't reuse my other motor body, hadda make a new one drat!

Here is how I managed to avoid wire fatigue second go-round with a thick plastic straw and some thread spools.

Whacked the last spool and had broken wire somewhere down in a coil. Total misery, started unwinding the N coils and happened to find the break, spliced and continued (til 4frickinAM!@#!)

rotor pic:


Here it is running:
Pentagon Y Winding on Radio Shack core

Plan to epoxe the windings and try balancing the rotor. I really need to learn this winding since I have this motor whose brushes CANNOT be rotated without a massive redesign, going up a size or two, using 22ga wire here:


But if I could find some more compact brushes (spring behind the brush, any ideas any one?) I would entertain going to an 8 brush motor design, with a 1 3/4" alum. tube motor body, 4 mags. I want to do a double rotor "elongated" generator as Ufo has recommended. I don't see how the Pentagon Y Winding could be converted to a generator multicoil spread as recommended. Also Ufo, true that you don't think you can get that "great energy return" without an 8 brush motor too?

[Ufopolitics]

Great Work!

[QUOTE=sampojo;227159]Hi Ufo and all, making some progress on learning wiring Got interested in the Pentagon Y wiring and its "mysterious" and "magical" happenings.

Please allow me to introduce this excellent Asymmetrical Pattern...


[\QUOTE]

I took the liberty to reword the description as I dissected Ufo's instructios.

----------------------------------

This is an excellent Asymmetrical Pattern. It is displayed on a Five Pole Configuration, the simplest that can be used. It is scalable to higher poles structures base on the multiple of five. e.g. 10 or 20. It will deliver in the isolated electrical output a higher voltage than input, and has robust torque and high rpm performance. Ufopolitics has stated that due to it's higher degree of assymetry, it may have internal induction between coils or have a transformer effect between the rotating primary and secondar coil elements.

The main electromagnetic pattern per pair of coils is constructed in a "Y" architecture. It is very asymmetric since one coil of a pair is smaller than the second coil. In this graphic diagram, all the South poles are the small inner pentagon, and the North poles are located in the outer pentagon.

The coil pair winding technique for this pattern is more complicated than all other asymmetric patterns. Only one side of a coil pair may be wound at a time. All small inner halves of coil pairs must be wound, and then the larger coil halves are wound. The performance of this pattern is superior and will generate some extraordinary results. In order to wind the rotor, follow these steps.

1. First make 5 spools of magnet wire, one per coil pair. They may be numbered and coordinated to the winding instructions, such as spool 1 would belong to Pole 1. The gauge of the wire is selected dependent upon the design requirements of the motor under construction. For initial trial models using the Radio Shack core, the same gauge wire as the original motor (32ga. generally), about 12' of wire will fully fill the rotor and read 2-3 Ohms. Then transfer each wire onto separate spools. Before transferring the wire, measure the half way point of each piece and mark it with a piece of tape or paint. When winding divide the wire between coil pairs using this mark.
2. Number each armature pole as 1,2,3,4 and 5, as represented in diagram. When winding is commenced, each spool of wire will be marked and thus assigned to a pole. As the small coil halves are wound for each pole, and the first inner layer is completed, there will be five separate wires and spools dangling from the rotor. Without marking each spool with its pole assignment, it will be difficult to correctly wind the second coil pair layer, but using an ohmmeter for continuity checking will work well. After marking, we are ready to start winding.
3. Attach a wire stripping off the insulation at the point of attachment of the spool marked #1 to Upper Commutator Element P1 (Outer Commutator on Diagram) , then start winding Pole 1 CCW looking at front of Pole 1 (marked as P1 in Red on Diagram) . Wind as far down the pole close to shaft as possible in order to leave room for the second layer of North coils applied upon completion of the ALL South halves. Since the area faces of the coil pairs are different, the coils are still balanced since wire length of each half coil are equal Always keep in mind a second layer will need to be wound.
4. ALL 5 South coils are wound first CCW looking down on the pole as you wind the coil. Poles should be numbered and the strarting face of the rotor from which winding is commenced may be color coded to distinguish it from the rear face of the rotor. This will minimize confusion throughout the winding process. To explain the winding Illustration 1 below has a slightly different definition of terms in order to capture the process in print.
a. S – Slot with number, e.g. S1
b. C – Commutator element, front, with number, C1, C2, etc.
c. c – Commutator element, rear, c1, c2, etc.
d. P – Pole, P1, P2, etc
Using the diagram below to describe the winding of the first South pole, start at the top commutator, C5, and attach the magnet wire to it. Looking one pole clockwise to P1, commence winding CCW around the single pole until at the half way point of the wire. Stabilize the spool so it will not swing around as other poles are wound, otherwise the wire may fatigue and break. Wind all 5 poles, increasing the numbers of the poles and commutator equally to maintain the numerical relationship and winding geomtry for each coil. When at the last South pole, P5, bring the wire out the back face of the rotor along the shaft to slot S3 to start the North pole on pole P3 and wind now clockwise (CW) as one turns the the rotor around for winding, and capture a SECOND pole, P2 also. Wind remaining wire and attach to rear commutator element, c4. Repeat, changing increments of components to assure winding the proper poles at all times.



5. BRUSH ALIGNMENT: The Pentgon Y wiring has the brushes aligned exactly parallel to stator bisectors, or at the dead center of the magnetic fields of the magnets. This is not like the Asymmetric Radio Shack Motor Replication pattern, which required the brush positioning to be rotated 90 degrees.
6. Tuning for better performance: Brush line could be moved towards 1:00 O'clock until "Firing" N1 right centered between N-S Opening.
Overall it is very hard to work with smaller gauge wires without them fatiguing or accidentally stress one to the breaking point with the two step spool process.

----------------------------------------------------

I had to wind it almost completely twice to get it right. I couldn't get the RS 30ga red wire to fit, even though I shortened it a couple feet from my previous standard winding replication, and I broke a wire due to fatigue as I went for the second layer. No where near 4 ohms. Went to 32ga, fit good, ~12', 2.5ohm. Gave myself more room between the commutator and the rotor, 1/8" total, couldn't reuse my other motor body, hadda make a new one drat!

Here is how I managed to avoid wire fatigue second go-round with a thick plastic straw and some thread spools.

Whacked the last spool and had broken wire somewhere down in a coil. Total misery, started unwinding the N coils and happened to find the break, spliced and continued (til 4frickinAM!@#!)

rotor pic:


Here it is running:
Pentagon Y Winding on Radio Shack core

Plan to epoxe the windings and try balancing the rotor. I really need to learn this winding since I have this motor whose brushes CANNOT be rotated without a massive redesign, going up a size or two, using 22ga wire here:


But if I could find some more compact brushes (spring behind the brush, any ideas any one?) I would entertain going to an 8 brush motor design, with a 1 3/4" alum. tube motor body, 4 mags. I want to do a double rotor "elongated" generator as Ufo has recommended. I don't see how the Pentagon Y Winding could be converted to a generator multicoil spread as recommended. Also Ufo, true that you don't think you can get that "great energy return" without an 8 brush motor too?

Hello there Sam-Po Jó (That is how I heard you pronounce it.. )

Nice work, my friend, sorry it took a while to "get it"...but worth it right?...you are getting the Touch there...that's awesome!, and I am glad...

I make small compact brushes HOUSINGS (I edited this, to make sure we are talking about the Metal Housing for Brushes) out of brass square tubing you could get at some hardware stores, not Home Depot...but Ace or something like...Tubing is like 1/4 inch and there are some small brushes also available in those stores...ask, they have them in some small boxes. Try to get the ones that have a copper braided cable coming out of the carbon, in order to solder it at end of tubing.

I also make them (a bit more complicated though), out of flat brass strips, or could be copper...bend them, shape them like a U Channel with L ends to attach bolts...I use a bench vise, a small hammer and 1/4 and 1/8 square keys for shafts to shape them.

According to Video sound...it runs very strong, however, I hear a rough friction there...but I understand ,like you have said, you still need to do some more work on rotor.


Excellent work!...Now measure outputs...speed and V/A draw after you get it running smoother...will love to see results...


Yeah, a four brush would be stronger, plus you will get more output when joining in series both out gates.


Regards


Ufopolitics