My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Hello and Welcome Morpheus0101

Hi UFOpolitics and all, I've been following this tread and the other one from about December last year and I have to say I'm impressed not only with what you've done here but with your determination and the effort you have undergone in order to deliver this to the wider world.
It took me nearly a month of reading to get through the old posts but it was worth it as there are a number of gems buried amongst them, and I really didn't want to miss anything important. I've studied alternative energy, Tesla and the rest for a number of years now so when I read your post it's clear to me you know what your doing which is rather exciting giving where this is heading.
Anyway I've been too busy until recently to help out but I figured I'd contribute to the coding of the Arduino as I've done some programming in the past.
Basically using an Arduino Uno I've used three input potentiometers all 10K pots to control the pulse sequence one Coarse range one fine range and another for duty cycle
this will drive any number of output pins that you want just apply the appropriate values where indicated in the code, as it stands it's set for four outputs.
Hope you find this of use
Regards
Morpheus


You'll find the code here
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BzuX...it?usp=sharing

Demo video pulsing leds
UFOMotorPWM1 - YouTube

Hello and very Morpheus!

Wow, thanks...what a way to make a "Debut" here!...Welcome aboard

I am very glad you read my first thread...as it unfolds the Fundamentals to understand this Machines, and much more...

Yes, we needed Arduino Codes Experts...as Dana was going crazy with all He was doing...
Many thanks for your contributions...We, will help you as much as you need in building your Machines, my friend.

I saw video, looks awesome...

One thing I noticed...and may be that way...When you started accelerating the sequences, I noticed LED's went dimmer...to almost faded out...that does not means signal is also getting weaker right?


Anyways...with this set up we have here, is so flexible and upgradable and enhanced...that we will not have any problems at all...

Now, the excitement will come...when you guys see, how those small LED's could drive much faster the Real Vortex at Rotors......while they go just "cruising" at Mid speed...

Eventually... We are arriving to our "Final Destination" point...We have an awesome Monster Pulser...built by Sir John Stone...that has been proven beyond doubt to be able to handle the fast and high spikes from Radiant...awesome work John!...and I hope everything is well at home.

We have heck of replications going on now...and I know -at least I am- waiting to see those Machines ran by the Off Pulses...


Regards and Thanks again Morpheus0101


Ufopolitics

[prochiro]

@ UFO
Morph's code it good. He started to turn up freq. and lowered the duty some with the duty pot ,then continued to raise freq. I just wish he would respond, I cant wait for him to read what we think about his code upgrade. Truly morphed.
I am still working on the primary half of JS's circuit in X4. Trying to eliminate an accident with so many parts and wires. You know how things get rocking when someone touches off one of those UFO thingy-ma-bobs with 48 or 60 volts. I forgot to tell you that when I tested the Duo on the small machine that it ran twice as smooth as ever before.
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

@ UFO
Morph's code it good. He started to turn up freq. and lowered the duty some with the duty pot ,then continued to raise freq. I just wish he would respond, I cant wait for him to read what we think about his code upgrade. Truly morphed.

Hello Dana,

I heard You...I read your prior post where you asked about frequency...as you already tested...awesome!

I am still working on the primary half of JS's circuit in X4. Trying to eliminate an accident with so many parts and wires. You know how things get rocking when someone touches off one of those UFO thingy-ma-bobs with 48 or 60 volts.

Yeah, Dana, make sure you test everything at low voltage before going higher...

I forgot to tell you that when I tested the Duo on the small machine that it ran twice as smooth as ever before.
Dana

Excellent!...yes, definitively Feed is "organized" now...so Machines should also run smoother...

I wanted to ask you Dana...Do you feel kind of a "Delay" in response from Machine when you accelerate suddenly?

However, You only have tested the Dual Pulser with smaller Motors...at Imperial would be a much more closed looped sequence...since it is four brush system.


Warm Regards Friend


Ufopolitics

[Lightworker1]

@UFO
I just added 12 more volts and the machine went ballistic. RPM went to 7400 and the amps were still at .4.
Dana

Dana SUPERB WORK

Warmest regards

light

[Lightworker1]

The Measurement Environment of UFO POLITICS MOTORS R&D

Hello UFO, Dana, All
It some while since I last posted a message.
I was still reading & going through the ongoing progress
First I ran Dana's prog. Great job.

I improved the Serial-Monitor Display
Then I noticed when the duty value POT apporached min values, the duty values started showing up as negative values in the serial monitor.
So I simply commented out the the prog-line below:

//dutyValue=dutyValue-3; // used to fine tune mid range balance with freq.

which fixed the occurrence of possible negative values



https://www.dropbox.com/lightbox/hom...sketches%20ufo

Thanks Dana for great effort in coding the driver software..
Thanks John Stone for your Monster Driver Hardware. Hoping soon to etch pcbs.


Now for the Arduino Sensing software, I am just tiding up the ver 1 code for presentation.

Key Features:

RPM meter was some challenge and failed to be successful at all on my Leonardo as I discovered later that I2C bus is shared by INT0 & INT1
and furthermore, INT2 & INT3 are not much helpful either as they shared serial communication Tx & Rx lines.

To ensure my Leonardo was not defective, I just assembled a breadboard version of ATMega328 UNO (as that chip was on hand plus I always keep a good supply of resistors, etc)

My UNO was successful.

I have already ordered Ardunio Mega + a sensor shield to make life easy, instead of UNO for the future work. Mega will be here hopefully by the weekend


Measure DC Amps Two Channels (isolated) (0 - 100 Amps each Isolated from the test environment) using Allegro 1pc x ACS758 devices
At present one is ready.

More Amp Channels can be added as required.
If 0 - 10 Amps or 0 - 1 Amp ranges becomes desirable then we can use precision instruement OP AMPS with supply voltage less than 5V DC

Measure DC Volts Two Channels (isolated later through the use OPTO I2C Bus) for now sharing common ground (0 - 100V)

Again more Voltage Measuring Channels can be added as required.

Measure Torque in (N.m) (I am thinking of using a strain gauge as a force meter used in the weighing scales these days as information can be processed and controlled by Arduino

The idea is that when the breaking force is applied to the motor shaft, we will be able to precisely tell difference between symmetric and asymmetric motors

Yesterday I received Melexis MLX90614 IR temperature probe but after spending some twelve hours, I think it faulty as it holds down the enter I2C bus when connected. For that I just got in touch with the supplier.

The Idea is to have atleat two of these probes for the imperial motor to measure their commutator brush temperatures simultaneously
and more in case of the MAG3

Here are crude phone videos of the current work
plus Dana's code under test.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7j9fj7kwlj...20IMG_1118.MOV

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tbc8ckiobce47cv/IMG_1119.MOV


Now I can start using all this for testing Dual pentagon motor.

I will also post the arduino sketch.

Warmest regards

light

[Lightworker1]

Hello UFO, Dana, All
It some while since I last posted a message.
I was still reading & going through the ongoing progress
First I ran Dana's prog. Great job.

I improved the Serial-Monitor Display
Then I noticed when the duty value POT apporached min values, the duty values started showing up as negative values in the serial monitor.
So I simply commented out the the prog-line below:

//dutyValue=dutyValue-3; // used to fine tune mid range balance with freq.

which fixed the occurrence of possible negative values



https://www.dropbox.com/lightbox/hom...sketches%20ufo

Thanks Dana for great effort in coding the driver software..
Thanks John Stone for your Monster Driver Hardware. Hoping soon to etch pcbs.


Now for the Arduino Sensing software, I am just tiding up the ver 1 code for presentation.

Key Features:

RPM meter was some challenge and failed to be successful at all on my Leonardo as I discovered later that I2C bus is shared by INT0 & INT1
and furthermore, INT2 & INT3 are not much helpful either as they shared serial communication Tx & Rx lines.

To ensure my Leonardo was not defective, I just assembled a breadboard version of ATMega328 UNO (as that chip was on hand plus I always keep a good supply of resistors, etc)

My UNO was successful.

I have already ordered Ardunio Mega + a sensor shield to make life easy, instead of UNO for the future work. Mega will be here hopefully by the weekend


Measure DC Amps Two Channels (isolated) (0 - 100 Amps each Isolated from the test environment) using Allegro 1pc x ACS758 devices
At present one is ready.

More Amp Channels can be added as required.
If 0 - 10 Amps or 0 - 1 Amp ranges becomes desirable then we can use precision instruement OP AMPS with supply voltage less than 5V DC

Measure DC Volts Two Channels (isolated later through the use OPTO I2C Bus) for now sharing common ground (0 - 100V)

Again more Voltage Measuring Channels can be added as required.

Measure Torque in (N.m) (I am thinking of using a strain gauge as a force meter used in the weighing scales these days as information can be processed and controlled by Arduino

The idea is that when the breaking force is applied to the motor shaft, we will be able to precisely tell difference between symmetric and asymmetric motors

Yesterday I received Melexis MLX90614 IR temperature probe but after spending some twelve hours, I think it faulty as it holds down the enter I2C bus when connected. For that I just got in touch with the supplier.

The Idea is to have atleat two of these probes for the imperial motor to measure their commutator brush temperatures simultaneously
and more in case of the MAG3

Here are crude phone videos of the current work
plus Dana's code under test.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7j9fj7kwlj...20IMG_1118.MOV

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tbc8ckiobce47cv/IMG_1119.MOV


Now I can start using all this for testing Dual pentagon motor.

I will also post the arduino sketch.

Warmest regards

light

By the way I forgot to include modified version of Dana's code. Sorry about that. Here it is now:




/* This code was developed for UFOPOLITICS Imperial Machine to provide four seperate PWM signals offset in time to reduce AMPS when powering
on four power lines. As programed here it will provide an OFF setting as well as Frequency control from 16Hz to 167Hz. Higher HZ are avalable
by adjusting program data. This setup has been tested up to 14KHz.
Add 4 LED's and a resistor on each and insert them into (3,10,6,11) PWM pin and then all go to ground (for testing). You can use different PWM
pins as long as you enter there numbers below and keep them in order.
Turns on and off each LED for 1/4 or less of frequency time, each cycle will do four PWM pins one time with no overlap, repeatedly.
Install 10K POT WITH CENTER PIN OF POT TO ANALOG PIN (A0). This is the freq. pot and the other 2 pot leads can be switched between
(+5 to ground) for pot direction. The other (Duty) pot is installed in same manner with center pin going to A1.
This example code is in the public domain. Developed by PROCHIRO. Tested on Leonardo and Mega2560.
Code may be simplified and still run Imperial well.
Important----- Adjust frequency first and then duty for startup (and reverse this for shutdown).
*/

/* Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards. Do not use 13. If using a LCD for readout, you may find that an
unexceptable delay and/or distortion will occure. NOT RECOMENDED.
Give PWM's a name:*/
int led1 = 3;
int led2 = 10;
int led3 = 6;
int led4 = 11;
float ontime= 0;
float offtime = 0;
float totalms =0;
float splitms = 0;

int freqPin = A0; // Select the input pin for the potentiometer. This can also be be changed as long as you change the pin ID here.
int dutypin = A1;
float freq = 0; // Variable to store the value coming from the sensor
//float freqstore =0;

int dutyValue = 0;
char buf[30];
/*
This setup routine runs once when you press reset:*/
void setup() {
// initialize all 4 digital PWM pins as an output.
pinMode(led1, OUTPUT);
pinMode(led2, OUTPUT);
pinMode(led3, OUTPUT);
pinMode(led4, OUTPUT);
//Serial.begin(9600);
}

// This loop routine runs over and over again, forever:
void loop() {
dutyValue = map(analogRead(dutypin), 0, 1023, 0, 26); //
if(dutyValue<=1){dutyValue = 1;}
freq = map(analogRead(freqPin), 0, 1023, 0, 200); // full on time for this freq
totalms=(1000/freq);
splitms=totalms/4;
ontime=((splitms/27)*dutyValue)*1000;
offtime=((totalms/4)*1000)-ontime;
//(splitms-ontime)*1000;
freq=freq-2;
// dutyValue=dutyValue-3; // used to fine tune mid range balance with freq.
if(totalms >=200) { return; }
digitalWrite(led1, HIGH); // turn the PWM3 on (1/4 time of total cycle)
delayMicroseconds(ontime);
digitalWrite(led1, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(offtime);
digitalWrite(led2, HIGH); // turn the PWM10 on (1/4 time of total cycle)
delayMicroseconds(ontime);
digitalWrite(led2, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(offtime);
digitalWrite(led3, HIGH); // turn the PWM6 on (1/4 time of total cycle)
delayMicroseconds(ontime);
digitalWrite(led3, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(offtime);
digitalWrite(led4, HIGH); // turn the PWM11 on (1/4 time of total cycle)
delayMicroseconds(ontime);
digitalWrite(led4, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(offtime);

UpdateConsole();

}

void UpdateConsole() { // Same as UpdateLCD() but sending to Serial Monitor
Serial.print("ontime ");
Serial.print( ontime);
Serial.print("\t");

Serial.print("offtime ");
Serial.print( offtime);
Serial.print("\t");

Serial.print("totalms ");
Serial.print( totalms);
Serial.print("\t");

Serial.print("splitms ");
Serial.print( splitms);
Serial.print("\t");

Serial.print("duty ");
Serial.print( dutyValue);
Serial.print("\t");

Serial.print(" freq ");
Serial.print( freq,1);
Serial.print("\t");

Serial.print("totalms ");
Serial.print( totalms);
Serial.println(" <<--- All Times in ms ");
}


Warmest regards

light

[Cornboy 555]

When.

UFO, qué increíble visión que tienes! What incredible insight you have!

Dana, you are really kickin some butt! Could you please run your motor with a moderate load for 5, 10 and 20 mins, then take temp readings?

Cornboy, I really want to see the MAG in full effect! When is harvesting season? It would be interesting to come to your country and spend some time on a farm.

Keep it clean and green!
Richie

Hello Midastouch, are you still in Japan?, yeh i want to see MAG3 in full swing too, am slowly getting there, lots of - making a living - to do at the moment.

Harvest of garlic is OCT - NOV, if my motor is not finished and tested by then , i'll scream.

If you are ever coming this way just PM me.

Regards Cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

Settling Down.

@Cornboy
You should be able to get it later. By the way, what is that in those pictures you posted. It looks like a glass and bottle of your favorite wine. Well after a day of working in the vineyard that's all I could see. Got a small frost last nite but lost only about 10% or so. Cleaned up with the mower throwing up a lot of dust, YEP, that's all I could see in your pictures. It is good how after a hard days work, how a cool class will settle you down.
Dana

Settle you down indead, DANA, However i'm glad you haven't settled down on the Arduino task, Thanks very much. With every thing i have to do i'm sure i will end up begging one of you guy's to just set me one up and ship it to me, for a profit of course.

I enjoyed your short story about your childhood accident, immensly, as a similar thing happened to me when i was 5 yrs old.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

E Savy.

Great work LIGHT, I gotta get me one of those screens, that's awesome, Thanks.

It is soo Wonderful, to have electronic savy folks here.

Thanks Cornboy.

[prochiro]

Sensors

@Lightworker
Great work on the sensors. See Morph's code and go from there. When you get all the sensor code going well, and it looks good now, keep in mind that some of us are going to be using voltages maybe as high as 60-72. If you know of sensors that go that far, include there name as you go. I'm vary excited. Your test stand looks good. Can you see the Imperial set up with all that stuff and lighting your house. Oh, when you do the sensors, if any readings go out of bounds, we need a method to shut the system down and or adjust its function on the go. Isn't this stuff cool.

Dana

[Morpheus0101]

Thanks all

Thank's very much all of you for the hearty welcome, I'm very pleased you guys liked the code.
The reason for my delayed response is because I live in London and so our timezones are at opposite ends, but I guess this enables us to work round the clock eh

UFO actually it was your early post that most interested me especially when you mentioned about electrolysis as this is a particular interest of mine, I followed your tread hoping to hear some more about it but you just went on about motors which I had little interest in until I got swept up in a vortex of excitement and now I'm a motor head

You rightly mention the led's dimming, this happens when at full pulsing with duty fully on and more with duty down to minimum on. I put this down to the led's being unable to fully illuminate due to the impulse speed as opposed to a weaker signal, unfortunately my scope is an antiquated piece of crap that's fit for the bin so I can't tell for sure.

Actually Dana I was hoping you could enlighten me on that point since you've been a busy bee and already checked it on your scope what frequency were you getting at full throttle and was there a good clean signal at short dutycycle on?
Dana you asked about my knowledge of the internal timers, as like the rest of you I'm only new to the Arduino world so I've only given a cursory poke around. My first concern was to get something up and running, now I can turn my attention to optimising the speed through overclocking or direct port addressing. Going to need to do some reading first.
With regard to the Serial readout being reversed for LCD your right I've got duty cycle back to front haven't I I'll straighten that out soon.

Now this point about the LCD raises a point I wanted to make, like the rest of you I think having an external LCD to give feedback is a great idea however moving to an Arduino mega to accomplished this is in my opinion a mistake for several reasons.
Firstly it's more costly and restricts us from dedicating a chip to a project as the mega would need the whole board where as say the Uno we could just copy program to a new chip and put it on a circuit with a crystal oscillator and some caps this salvages the development board for R+D.
Secondly we can actually run the LCD using the serial ports so we would still have adequate number of pins available for firing the coils.
Lastly using different boards means different chips and so trying to program faster impulses then becomes problematic as the hardware addresses will differ.
Personally I think the simpler we can keep this as well as cost effective then the more accessible this project becomes.

Regards
Morpheus

[prochiro]

@ Morpheus
The loss of duty at high frequency was one of the reasons I put those cheater + or - numbers in once a preferred range was found. Your program has a little more loss at 50Hz and higher. When I went to (Delaymicroseconds), a lot of the loss went away because of not chunking larger times. This loss is not so important for smaller motors but is for Imperial and larger. There will always be some time loss and if we can get to freq. of 200 with duty of 24.5 area, that would be good.

When you say about the Mega, are you saying that we can just use a chip and parts to do this rather than a whole board???? Keep in mind that we also want to control amps, voltage,rpm, torque, with motor shutdown possibilities also. That sounds great but seems like for many less electrical people might be a stumbling point. Just thinking this whole thing out at the moment. Are you saying that we do not need an uno but just an uno chip and parts. ? We could incorporate the chip into our Monster circuit all as one.?
Dana

[prochiro]

@ Morpheus
Chip speed is in part deteriorated by low voltage at high output times. There may be an advantage to using the 9 volt input ?

[Hitby13kw]

@ Morpheus to the team . ..
Just finishing up on my vision of Sir Johns Monster driver (will post photos later) so the timing of your joining is key, have been using Danas code, but if he reports yours is superior – I’m on board.

When you say about the Mega, are you saying that we can just use a chip and parts to do this rather than a whole board???? Keep in mind that we also want to control amps, voltage,rpm, torque, with motor shutdown possibilities also. That sounds great but seems like for many less electrical people might be a stumbling point. Just thinking this whole thing out at the moment. Are you saying that we do not need an uno but just an uno chip and parts. ? We could incorporate the chip into our Monster circuit all as one.?
Dana

@ Dana, Certainty don’t mean to speak for the newest member of our team, but that seems to be what he is saying and I think that is a great idea, have multiple processors each dedicated to its own task (they could be all linked to one main for emergency shutdown, etc.) The chips are very low cost $5.50 first place checked A000048: ARDUINO: Education & Hobby Kits (may be less else ware)

Hitby13kw

[Morpheus0101]

Uno

Hi Dana, right let clear up my position; firstly I'm not an expert in this and so it's not for me to direct the development of this project one way or another.
My thoughts however are to build a simple core system which can act as a test bed and point of common reference this is I believe what UFOpolitics is trying to achieve here.
Things like LCD displays whilst nice are not actually needed for this to work and so should be considered as modular additions as would safe startup and shutdown functions.

The reason I chose the Uno was simply because it comes with a pdip chip i.e a chip that plugs into a socket on the board which I can pop out once programmed and use in a dedicated circuit then I can buy another for a few pounds and do it again.
This instructable will give you the idea.

Standalone Arduino / ATMega chip on breadboard

Now this makes it an easy option to use several should I wanted to do so as Hitby13kw said for dedicated task like maybe LCD or elaborate control sensors etc but ultimately run from a single core cheap chip.

Thanks for the feedback on the loss at 50Hz plus, I think you have it right about the Voltage, I believe I read between 7 to 12 v is perfered especially at higher frequencies.

Gotta go it's late
Morpheus