My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Midaztouch]

Nice!!!

@ UFO

We need to have an account with 3D Systems. Just like we did with the JS Monster board. We can send the CAD and specs. 3D Systems is the best 3D printing company choice. They have location in Australia, United States, UK, and Asia. Their prices are reasonable and the leader in 3D Printing Techonolgy.
Plus, their Customer Service is the best in the game.

Please check out their homepage. 3D Printers, 3D Printing, 3D Parts and Rapid Prototyping | www.3dsystems.com
Go to parts on demand
Your area
Rapid prototyping

Ufo, we could have your new motor system in less the 3 weeks.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[sampojo]

3D question

so these things make plastic components don't they? So then you take a plastic part and make a mold for it? Sure you can do that for rotor steel? Laminated? Just need to stamp something out of sheets for a rotor maybe?

[Ufopolitics]

3D Printing...

so these things make plastic components don't they? So then you take a plastic part and make a mold for it? Sure you can do that for rotor steel? Laminated? Just need to stamp something out of sheets for a rotor maybe?

Thanks Midaz, Hello Sampojo,

I believe the 3D Printer could be used to do complicated parts...like the Rotor Bridge/Fan in this Design...But, like you have written above...the best deal would be to have them make for Us the "Negative" of the Part...in other words...The Mold.

Once we have the Mold it would be easier to poor some resin and fibers and make several parts from it.

I am familiar with Molds Tech...and I believe They could do it...the only thing required is to add some "Extra Borders" to later on crack parts from there...as also a Mold must be all closed, like a "Container"...we trim it/sand it/finish it after popping out the "rough" part.

Related to Steel Laminations for either Rotors or Wound Stators...I do not think a 3D Printer could cut/trim a steel lamination...They are based on a Powder and a Resin to build parts...so, even if they use "Steel Powder" ...and resin is a fast drying type, like Polyester...not Epoxy (I believe, not sure though)...So, I believe...We would have to keep using our old Water Jet Guys...cutting it out of a nice steel sheet...That's the way I have been doing it so far.


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Related to this New Structured Asymmetry...

Hello to All,


I meant to say this before...and Cornboy already mentioned to get some guys who have the time and money to build an Imperial in the Dual Rotor System...

I believe that -like I did it in the very beginning of this Thread- it is better to start first with a smaller, low number of Poles, scale Models, less money spent...as also done much faster than a large Build...

So, my mistake for presenting first a Twelve and later the Imperial 28 poles...I should have started from the 3 and 5 poles...However, at same token , I wanted to demonstrate the "Flexibility" of this Application that could be extended to ALL Machines we have built so far...

I want to make first a Three Pole with this System...as also a Five and a Twelve and Ten...eventually ...So I am "hunting for small BLDC RC motors to get their outer rotors...and adapt a smaller Inner Rotor/Magnets within...

The Fun part, would be to compare Performances/Data etc... between Single and Dual Rotor Asymmetric Systems...


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[Rl2003]

Back from the shadows

Hello to all,
It has been quite some time since I have been able to do any real work on
this thread. I had purchased the Imperial Motor and 19 AWG wire to wind,
late last year, but haven't completed it. I would like to get it finished
before the thread heads into to many directions with so many possibilities.
I have been following as much as possible.
UFO thanks for continuing with the thread and the work you have started.
I would like to know how this bent winding or U shaped pairs is wound, and
if it can be applied to the imperial 56 motor.
Another question I have is how the wires from each pair is held in the commutator.
I noticed that there was a larger gauge wire that was pushed
in over the top. Was this the best way to make a connection.
Is soldering option?

Mark

Hello to All,

[IMG][/IMG]



Ufopolitics

[IndianaBoys]

Dual Rotor Design Generator?

Ufopolitics,

Will the Dual Rotor Design be an efficient generator as well?

Thanks,

IndianaBoys

[Midaztouch]

Ufo and all

3D systems will give us a finished product ready for action. Open the box, add an epoxy coating and it will side on. This will give each builder the option to order at will. Building will be kept simple. 3D Systems will make a file. Then all we have to do is order. The part(s) will arrive to your home or place of business in 3 weeks.

Please take the time to go through the homepages of Stratasys and 3D Systems completely. This will give you a broad spectrum of what the future holds for manufacturing...at this point, a gun, with the Accuracy of a Glock, can be ready to fire in one hour from a 3D printer.

The 3D printing stocks are high but there is still a lot of room for growth. GE and Panosonic will join the sector in a few years. So, if your an investor, take a look at that also

Professional 3D Printing | Stratasys
3D Printers, 3D Printing, 3D Parts and Rapid Prototyping | www.3dsystems.com

Ps. Cornboy, your secret sauce will be needed.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Ufopolitics]

Yes IB

Ufopolitics,

Will the Dual Rotor Design be an efficient generator as well?

Thanks,

IndianaBoys

Hello IndianaBoys,


Yes indeed, it will generate more Output than a Single Rotor...This System uses Two Spirals of Rotor Coils "Dancing" (Interacting) around the same Stators where we had just One Rotor Spiral of Coils before...from the typical old models.

The Power will be greater...the speed and torque will increase.

Now, depending on how to connect Inner-Outer Pairs (Parallel or Series)...will render the output results...just like in any previous windings or circuit connect applications related to V and A.

Warm regards IndianaBoys


Ufopolitics

[Midaztouch]

Dual rotor

UFO

Keeping the wire from siding to the center during winding???? Is it Important


Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Rl2003

Hello to all,
It has been quite some time since I have been able to do any real work on
this thread.

Hello Rl2003 and Welcome back!

I had purchased the Imperial Motor and 19 AWG wire to wind,
late last year, but haven't completed it. I would like to get it finished
before the thread heads into to many directions with so many possibilities.
I have been following as much as possible.
UFO thanks for continuing with the thread and the work you have started.

That's great!...please share your process as you go along this build...so you help others that want to start...or already in the process...Thanks!

I would like to know how this bent winding or U shaped pairs is wound, and
if it can be applied to the imperial 56 motor.

Ok, if you are referring to My Diagram in your post...yes it could be done with the Imperial (actually THAT is an Imperial rotor structure or 28 poles)...However, I do NOT recommend you "jump" steps here, IF You have NOT built first an Asymmetrical Imperial with just the way it comes in the UFO Kit...You will definitively get confused here, plus it will take much longer to start "hunting" or building from scratch other parts/components...and I do not have the time to guide you on a "full time basis" in this new process at this time.

So, I highly recommend you watch first my Three boring Asymmetrical Winding Tutorials (You do not have to watch all three at once...link just have Part 1) it will definitively be your Video Teaching Tutorial during building process...

Another question I have is how the wires from each pair is held in the commutator.
I noticed that there was a larger gauge wire that was pushed
in over the top. Was this the best way to make a connection.
Is soldering option?

Mark

Sorry, but there is absolutely not any larger wire gauge coils in any winding I have displayed, "mixed up" with other smaller gauge wired Coils...it may look heavier gauge, because it is seen in first plane related to others underneath...watch my Tutorials please.

It is VERY IMPORTANT to SET PAIR ONE (P1) that comprehends South Coil and North Coil in a "V" Shape aiming the wider side towards shaft...like you have seen on all my "P SERIES" Windings...I dedicate a long time of Part 1 just to explain how to set this Pair number One...and it is even MORE IMPORTANT where to connect the starting Commutator Element (shown in RED and P1 on Diagram below) related to the Fourteen Poles Total of the Pair or the Seven Poles for each Coil...This First set up is extremely important when it comes to future Timing Alignment as it will make a breeze doing the rest of the Pairs, since it is just a repeating overlapping process.

Please watch Diagram below:

[IMG][/IMG]

Hope this helps you and please remember to share your whole process.


Thanks!


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Winding Tutorial...

UFO

Keeping the wire from siding to the center during winding???? Is it Important


Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

Hello Midaz,

Watch my Winding Tutorial Videos...they are Free... pls.

You must try at all times to COMPACT wires/coils as much as you could pull, force towards shaft ...and YES, keeping the wires as COMPACT and Taking as Less Space as possible (not allowing them to "grow" towards the outer rotor end)...basically in the first wound coils...otherwise your "living nightmare" will start at the "Finish Line"...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[machinealive]

Hey there UFO

How are you man? I'm tired of programming. I'm going to try getting some current and volts in readings, try to pulse motor, bla,bla,bla.

Anyway, I started stripping the imperial asymmetric generator I wound. Never was really happy with that one. It's half done. I Need to see if the commutator, being widened, makes a difference, for better or worse.

I'm going to use this motor, in the front part of the welder frame, where excitor was. .am going to make, or find, two more laminated stator poles, to make a 4 pole wound stator.
Then I'm going to build a 4 pole inner stator, stationary. I think I will try to use the imperial to spin a drum with wound coils. I'm tired of small s$&@. I'm starting the big gen. It's gotta be the drum that spins on this.

I need to look up bearings and if I can't find what I need we may have to fab something new. I have an idea.

[Midaztouch]

Hello Midaz,

Watch my Winding Tutorial Videos...they are Free... pls.

You must try at all times to COMPACT wires/coils as much as you could pull, force towards shaft ...and YES, keeping the wires as COMPACT and Taking as Less Space as possible (not allowing them to "grow" towards the outer rotor end)...basically in the first wound coils...otherwise your "living nightmare" will start at the "Finish Line"...


Regards


Ufopolitics

UFO

Of course I've watched your vids, many times!

It looks like the outside rotor, is closed on the outer end of the U, parallel to the casing. If the angle is too acute, the wires will slide towards the center. The outer angle of the wire pairing seems to be relevant in my mind.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[prochiro]

Midaz
I think UFO was talking about the regular imperial and you are talking about the new outside rotor design. I also was wondering about the outside winding part but however we get the wire in there, centrifugal force will keep it in there when running.
Dana

[prochiro]

@ all
When first looking at a new design, for example the outer rotor UFU is showing, there are many deference's from previous construction. The winding being installed is one of the first things that comes to mind. We seem to be overwhelmed by these deference's and think ( WOW, this cannot be done), when in fact we have already done it in the past. Has any of you ever had a few coil wires that just would not lay down in the groove? What did you do? You put on, as little as possible, epoxy and then took a wood stick wrapped in saran wrap and clamped it down. The major difference here is that is easier to do on the new rotor because the clamps will not overlap each other. It may mean a little slower winding but I think not as with small clamps, one section is drying while next is being wound...... You see, break each part of this complicated thing down into simple parts and it will get done.
Dana