My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Lightworker1]

Hello Dana sorry to hear about the back accident.
Good to hear that it is getting better. I will agree 100% what Ian said about trying to touch the toes while standing straight in the morning and at night for 1 to 3 minutes (or whatever is comfortable and also check with your physical therapist).
It is something I have been doing for some 20 years. It has been very helpful. Another thing I find is hard mattress better than soft mattress to sleep in. I hope you will better as the time goes by. The time is great healer.

Wish fastest recovery

Warmest regards

lightworker

[Cornboy 555]

Hey DANA, happy to hear you again, sound advise from our comrades there, i had back problems earlier in life, but now i can bend all day long, picking Zucchini's etc.

What is needed is good excersize to keep the muscles in trim to hold your joints properly, of course sitting at a computer all day, can be hazardous for muscle tone in general.

It's very hard to get enough exercise, this day and age, unless you do it for a living.

Speedy recovery friend,

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[JohnStone]

[COLOR="RoyalBlue"][B]...I was wondering if we might use non-polar capacitors such as multilayer ceramic types which are reasonably small too.



...

Hi,
from standard knowledge there is no known reason to omit ceramic caps. They suffer not on polarity and are much faster than coiled electrolitics and do not dry or wear out. They are superiour as long you assemble same amount of µF for replacement.

If we focus on non standard knowledge I feel they are happy to support ultra fast changes and in so far they might foster radiant events.
I do not know if electrolitics own some special properties like aluminum or rough surface, Al oxide or electrolyt or other hidden item fosterning conversion from radiant to hot electricity. But I feel the cap as such does the magic (might be wrong).

If you plan to stack those ceramic caps please take in account that SMD types can be stacked very well and within less space consumtion. (But difficult to repair in case of damage) An overvoltage diode might be a good precaution in any case.
JS

[prochiro]

Hello UFO
Is there some way, say by using a zener diode to totally cut off the remaining voltage from the caps? I am not that knowledgeable about all the ways they can be manipulated but maybe you or JS know of a way to put in a threshold device.
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Prochiro!!

Hello UFO
Is there some way, say by using a zener diode to totally cut off the remaining voltage from the caps? I am not that knowledgeable about all the ways they can be manipulated but maybe you or JS know of a way to put in a threshold device.
Dana

Hey Dana, good to see you back again!

On the voltage issue I show on video...it was resolved by replacing same value (2.2 uF) but with higher Voltage Rating(100 instead of 50V)....then, remaining voltage is almost nothing (0.04 to 0.02) which is the remaining of bouncing V between Coils and Caps.

I have not tried the Ceramic Caps instead of the electrolytic on this 4 Phase Asymm BLDC...and as John Stone mentioned, they should work fine as long as they be of same value...I will definitively do that test, have to buy them though...and observe if there is any difference in performance or output.


Kind Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

A Call to China...

Hey Ufopolitics and all
I'm kind of late, sorry about that. I choose the Dual Triangles design, for I think it is very torquey. Here is the armature.


I use the Bifilar Winding. The pair of two parallel coil together have 90 turns of bifilar windings. Means each single coil have 45 turns. I don't have equipment to test the mechanical output right now. But I do have some interesting readings from my meter.
I use a power supply, now a battery ,sorry Ufo I did not follow your advice, this is what I got at the moment. But I put a Huge capacitor band between the power supply and the motor. I set the power supply at 36.2V exactly, and run the motor. In common sense, the motor, the capacitor band, and the power supply are all in parallel, so the voltage of each of them should be the same. But....when I connect the meter's terminals at the point that near the motor, means I wanna test the voltage between the motor input terminals, I connect the meter's terminals behind the capacitor band, near the motor. It reading more than 40V. If I reverse the meter's terminals, means positive to negative, negative to positive, it reads minus several hundreds of volts. And more, my other meter just went crazy, when the motor is running, the other multimeter just can't have a trustable reading, it reads about 18V at the power supply, and hundreds of volts at the motor. I don't know if I'm describing this clearly. The points where should have the exactly same voltage, just show different readings. And if the meter is OK, the voltage near the motor is just higher than the power supply's voltage. Means it is Charging the power supply when running? But why paralleled components have different voltage readings? If I change the motor to a normal motor, everything is back to normal.
I think this kind of readings is because that the electric components in side the meter, when come across radiant energy voltage, is causing unpredictable behavior. I just don't know what kind of meter to trust. I think I should use battery instead of the power supply, and choose another meter.
Sorry I don't have a video to show this beautiful running, Here is the image.



Regards

Ming.

My dear friend Ufopolitics
In the one I built, each one pair have a resistance of 1 ohm. Today my RPM meter arrived. At 36V at input, no load at output side, it's up to 3509 rpm.
I think I understand what you said. Thanks very much my friend, and I will build another one ASAP, based on the improved 12-pole version, the one with 12 pairs of V-shape coils.
Except one thing, about the diodes. I used to think they should be at the output side. But you said it's the input side. Do you mean that I should Pulse the motor, the same way we did in the other thread to the Static Coils, just change the the coil with the motor, let radiant energy come out from input brushes at T-off time through diodes to a load?

Thanks again my friend, your works are amazing, I just don't know how to describe it with words.

Regards

Ming

Hello Ming, how is my friend from China mainland?

Ming, I have been talking to some manufacturers of EV's in China...and I will tell you what I want to do next.

Since China is such a Large Industrial productive country, based on all related Electronics Development and Electrical Vehicles...as I understand in many towns no Gas Scooters or Motorcycles are allowed...has developed over the years a great massive production in this branch of engineering.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

On the other side, in China there are no limitations or restrictions to copy and mass produce anything you guys want to...coming out cheaper than any other "competitor originals" in Europe...

As an example of the above I will cite a REAL FACT...

SEVCON is a very well known British (UK) Manufacturer...China installed many SEVCON's Controller in their EV's...not being happy with results...Chinese EV Manufacturers "Duplicated" or Copy...whatever name you want to call it, I call it IMPROVEMENT, and F**k ALL Patents restrictions, and bull**** laws!!)...It resulted that the "Copy SEVCON" is MUCH BETTER than its original...enlarged their FET Banks to 48 FET'S...and costs ONE THIRD of Original Price...or $250.00 USD...

I believe the best way to get Asymmetric Technology, developed faster and spread out to this World...would be to give it as a GIFT to All Chinese EV's Manufacturers...which are many, many in there...

This facts could be even understood by my beautiful Four Years Old Grand Daughter...

Right now, I am working in the BLDC Outrunner, which is the same structural principle of the Most Popular Motor Manufactured in China...the "AC HUB MOTOR"...However, this Motor Windings and Controlling Techniques are still very unreliable, because it draws too much Energy from batteries...this limits the Miles Per Charge...(I drive one of them every day except rainy days, testing it...)plus it does not have a way to return excess energy back to source batteries...mine does that, you know it...while delivering a very strong torque and high speeds...Higher than its Symmetric Original.

In my future projects are a 13 Inch sized BLDC HUB Motor, 12,000 Watts...Converting it to Asymmetric and re-making all controllers and drivers for it...then mounting it back on a Chinese 8000 Watts Motorcycle.

I just need a favor...please PM Me here or at ufopolitics@gmail.com ...

I believe China could be exploding this Technology faster than working everyone of Us in "our free time", or "whenever possible"...and in our House Garages, with very reduced budgets on top of that...and I want this stuff to seriously get spread out ASAP (As Soon As Possible) into our entire Planet.

Time is running out...and we, are really not getting anywhere...let's face it guys!

Hope You could help me on this Ming (And as I write "Ming" is because He knows this Technology because He has already built it...but could be anyone else from that beautiful country...that could also be willing to help on this, and is familiar with Asymmetry), since you are already there...you speak Chinese...and for you to visit someone would be much faster and easier than anyone of Us here.


Thanks Much Friend and kind regards!


Ufopolitics

[Cornboy 555]

Hey UFO, what you say about China is very true, and certainly worth a try, But i am just curious, what makes you think we are running out of time?

You have mentioned this a few times in previous posts!

Is there something we should know about?

Kind Regards Cornboy.

[Ufopolitics]

Time...

Hey UFO, what you say about China is very true, and certainly worth a try, But i am just curious, what makes you think we are running out of time?

You have mentioned this a few times in previous posts!

Is there something we should know about?

Kind Regards Cornboy.

Hey Cornboy,

Time, yes time...we do not have all the time in the world my friend.

Just "review" this very Thread in time...I started it in July ,11, 2012 (A day after Tesla's Birthday)...how old is it by now?...How much material has been disclosed here?...isn't it enough?...well nope, there is still much more to be done here!...however, I see we are progressing in very slow steps...it takes too long to get a simple prototype build...and tested...and then installed in an Application has NOT happened yet!...and it is the only way to prove this Technology really works!

Only installing it in the smallest EV We could find (a scooter or a Bicycle) we will be able to conduct many REAL TESTING as Battery Charge and running time versus its Symmetrical Original.

How many "Scooter Motors" have we built here?...many...however, the point is NOT to have it running for ever in a testing bench!...but to get it installed where it goes...then conduct all V and A Testings while driving it with proper gauging measurements .

Trying to run -Linearly- with an Asymmetric Imperial, a Mecc Alte out of the Box...don't work, I have tried that, it works but not giving the FULL 6000 Watts Mecc Alte is capable to output, so, not good!...and all the Monster Drivers builders out there...have not being able to come up with any completed installation as of now to run it properly, showing completed testing...?

How much time so a Dual Rotor Asymmetrical machine could be seen here...?

I ask myself every time I am about to make a video...to make a CAD...To start a new disclosure...¿Is it worth it to keep disclosing NEW material here?...So far my own answer has been... NOPE , I do not think it is worth it to keep going...

And do not take me wrong...I know you all guys are doing your best to make it happen...but somehow The Gears of Time are not running properly, not smooth at all. As I know everyone of Us have our own personal issues...our situations, etc,etc...the point is exactly that...TIME.

And I do not expect to spend another year here, my friend...this way...not seeing any progress...but decaying the interest from many of the strongest builders and "real hopes" here...

I have "a schedule" to Accomplish My Friend, and I am VERY, very late by now, that is exactly what I was referring to, anytime I mention time.

Thanks for your concern shown in your question...but it is not related to health issues or whatever.

My main purpose to go into Brush Less Asymmetric Machines now...is NOT to "Please the Audience", or to "satisfy" previous skeptics criticisms about old brushes and commutators Tech being "out of fashion"......but to please Me, Myself and I......From there I will be jumping to My Patent, which is by now 13 years old...and only have about five more years of "lifetime" to expire...


Hope you understand me now.


Kind Regards Friend!


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Comments I Really Value...

A recent comment from a You Tube Member...on my Video "Asymmetry to Enlightenment":

kingofthepaupers
13 hours ago

Jct: Back ElectroMotive Force that negates the energy win is built into the symmetric design! I always thought it seemed silly to be switching polarities on parts (changing from sending to receiving electrons takes work that's wasted) and to think we could use electric power without the loss due to symmetry (The Witch, he calls it) is an amazing concept. Imagine tripling or quadrupling efficiency by getting rid of the 75% loss due to bad engineering (or sabotage).

·

ufopolitics
4 hours ago

Thank You Sir, excellent analytical post!

·

kingofthepaupers
1 hour ago

+ufopolitics I got an A+ in 4th Year Electronic Engineering (when everything came together) and must admit you shoved "the witch" into our faces.

Comment could be read at first comments section at:

ASYMMETRY TO ENLIGHTENMENT - YouTube


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[Cornboy 555]

Hey Cornboy,

Time, yes time...we do not have all the time in the world my friend.

Just "review" this very Thread in time...I started it in July ,11, 2012 (A day after Tesla's Birthday)...how old is it by now?...How much material has been disclosed here?...isn't it enough?...well nope, there is still much more to be done here!...however, I see we are progressing in very slow steps...it takes too long to get a simple prototype build...and tested...and then installed in an Application has NOT happened yet!...and it is the only way to prove this Technology really works!

Only installing it in the smallest EV We could find (a scooter or a Bicycle) we will be able to conduct many REAL TESTING as Battery Charge and running time versus its Symmetrical Original.

How many "Scooter Motors" have we built here?...many...however, the point is NOT to have it running for ever in a testing bench!...but to get it installed where it goes...then conduct all V and A Testings while driving it with proper gauging measurements .

Trying to run -Linearly- with an Asymmetric Imperial, a Mecc Alte out of the Box...don't work, I have tried that, it works but not giving the FULL 6000 Watts Mecc Alte is capable to output, so, not good!...and all the Monster Drivers builders out there...have not being able to come up with any completed installation as of now to run it properly, showing completed testing...?

How much time so a Dual Rotor Asymmetrical machine could be seen here...?

I ask myself every time I am about to make a video...to make a CAD...To start a new disclosure...¿Is it worth it to keep disclosing NEW material here?...So far my own answer has been... NOPE , I do not think it is worth it to keep going...

And do not take me wrong...I know you all guys are doing your best to make it happen...but somehow The Gears of Time are not running properly, not smooth at all. As I know everyone of Us have our own personal issues...our situations, etc,etc...the point is exactly that...TIME.

And I do not expect to spend another year here, my friend...this way...not seeing any progress...but decaying the interest from many of the strongest builders and "real hopes" here...

I have "a schedule" to Accomplish My Friend, and I am VERY, very late by now, that is exactly what I was referring to, anytime I mention time.

Thanks for your concern shown in your question...but it is not related to health issues or whatever.

My main purpose to go into Brush Less Asymmetric Machines now...is NOT to "Please the Audience", or to "satisfy" previous skeptics criticisms about old brushes and commutators Tech being "out of fashion"......but to please Me, Myself and I......From there I will be jumping to My Patent, which is by now 13 years old...and only have about five more years of "lifetime" to expire...


Hope you understand me now.


Kind Regards Friend!


Ufopolitics

Thanks UFO, i understand, and i look forward to your patent.

Regards Cornboy.

[Ufopolitics]

And I hope to...

Thanks UFO, i understand, and i look forward to your patent.

Regards Cornboy.

...And I look forward to be able to see your MAG 3 running-at least- before I do that...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[iankoglin]

G'day UFO, John Stone, Dana and Team
I am feeling much better each day and I feel I can now continue with my builds I have finished winding my two smaller "MY" Motors and ran them using direct 12v battery and found first one sometimes does not start or draw any current and sometimes is stagnant but drawing current but most times it runs in correct direction.
I think this is because I probably set the brushes to fire too close to the centre of the stator.
The second motor runs correctly whichever way I connect the wires to it.
Both these motors run unbalanced.
The first one even though it doesn't want to start sometimes, I have balanced it using Epoxy putty and even though it may not be exactly balanced I am sure it is good enough for my Bicycle and I am wiring my Bike so that I need to be moving at a reasonable speed before I use the motor I will have a Kill button that must be pressed and held in to energise the motor.
The other motor I will Use to motorise My wife's Bicycle we can test them together.
I also ran these 2 motors with the original brush arrangement that is it now has 4 pairs of brushes wired as2 x 2 parallel sets od brushes so there is only 2 wires to each end of the motor and pulsing the motor with one Monster Driver using 36v through voltage regulators 12v to the oscillator and 14.2 volts to the Monster driver to switch the 36.? to the motor.
I had diodes set on the 36.?v input from the battery to the circuit in case I accidently reversed the polarity and when I altered the pot too fast it blew the diode on the positive from the battery.

@ John Stone
John I have build your Monster Drivers and one I have doubled up on the Mosfets soldering the extra 2 in parallel with the first two and before I loaded any components I soldered heavy wire to the Ground on the circuit boards rather than having aerial wires soldered to the ground and the Mosfet Source pin and overheating the Mosfets.
The Drain is connected through the Heat sink rather than by Aerial wires that need extra heat to solder them to the Mosfet pins

I have 30 Ohm Gate resistors and the circuit seems to work excellent with the exception that when I have the pot at zero the LED is still just slightly on even though the motor is stopped

Please John In your instructions for building these Monsters you stated that the LED should NOT be lit up at all when the pot is Zero
What might it be that LED is still glowing very slightly could perhaps the Gate resistors are wrong?

I feel for your wife a broken bone is always a disappointment as it not only disables you but it really hurts tell her I hope it heals very quick for her

@ Dana
Glad to see you on deck again
I really need to look seriously at using the Arduino to run these motors
Please Dana can you give me some direction as to what I need to wire the Arduino to these motors

Kindest regards to you all

Kogs back in action again

[Midaztouch]

It's holiday season

UFO,

Christmas is upon us! Time for family, friends and relaxing projects. No need to rush. Please stay focused but enjoy the holidays!

I'm going crazy looking at my motor! I have to wait until the holidays are over to put some high voltage to her! For now, I must send cards, practice x-mas songs and get ready for the dreaded In-laws!LOL

Enjoy the holidays my friends
Midaz

[JohnStone]

Hello UFO
Is there some way, say by using a zener diode to totally cut off the remaining voltage from the caps? I am not that knowledgeable about all the ways they can be manipulated but maybe you or JS know of a way to put in a threshold device.
Dana

Genuine Zener diodes are somewhat slow. They are used manly to stabilize voltages - more statically. They are too lazy for overvoltage protection.

Very different from them are those diodes for overvoltage protection. They are called like tranzorb, transil, SMBJ, BZW, transient suppressors ...... They have fast .... very fast response time.
Those diodes are built for SHORT time spike suppression up to 1ms. The spec is to have a spike rising for 10µs and decay of 1000µs. Within this time they are capable swallowing 300W / 500W / 1000W - depending on type. This means they own an internal mass to store thermal energy but are not built for steady loss of i.e. 5W like Zeners.

Good news: The latter diodes are ideal for protecting electronics and capacitors from overvoltage spikes.



Now let's forward to a sample data sheet - hands on:

• Scroll down to page 3 / Fig. 3. There we can see the spec of the stadard test pulse (this is how a lightning bolt will crawl into our electronics). There is another spec for 8/20µs (not shown here)
• Page 2: select i.e. the line with 1.5KE20A type
  - Observe the stand off voltage to be 17.1V. Below this voltage we will measure some µA only. Above the current will increase up to 1mA at ->
  - Break down voltage: component tolerance between 19V and 21V at a test current of 1mA (behaviour just like a low power Zener diode - but much more faster).
  - Above 1mA reverse current - clamipng voltage will increase: see max. pulse current (54.2A) and corresponding clamp voltage (27.7V). This means that the voltage will not be chopped like done with a carpet knife but will show a bump in case of protection.

Please see Fig8 in data sheet. There we can see how the real clamping voltage increases with clamping current above basic breakdown voltage

Now let's move to real application:
Max. basic breakdown voltage will be 21V max. and we add i.e. 2A max. peak current (see Fig 8) causing about 0.2*21V = 4.2Vof voltage bump in case of clamping. We expect to get a protection of 21V + 4.2V = 25.2V

In this case the capacitor voltge shall be about 30...35V NOT below for safe operation.

Please observe the scope shot below (upper trace)


The voltage of protection diode shall be tuned to be well above the tail of the pulse (i.e. 1 devision obove GND line) in order to catch the spike only.

Please ask if you have problems choosing right parameters and components.
JS

[sinergicus]

question

I just finised my little 3 pole asymetric motor , input conection is diagonaly..the motor runing just fine but when ai shorting out the other 2 conections ( generator side) the rpm is going down very much ,at 1/3 from his initial full speed ....

CAn somebody tel me if this is normal behavior? I made somewhere an mistake?

Mihai