My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

IRF540 Vs NTE2397

Dear Sir / Team UFO,

Namaste.

I checked my fried out mosfets - irf840a. in all of them gate and drain shorted

can you pl look into the datasheet of irf540n at

http://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&rct...5oc_76e_5cpvhA

and let me know whether this can be used in the circuit in the place of nte2397?

And I'm not able to get 12v mov to complete the 555 circuit. In case I go forward, what adjustments are to be done in the circuit diagram?

regards and namaste

kumar

Hello Kumar,

Please compare the "Drain_to_Source Breakdown Voltage" ...in IRF540 it is rated at 100V, and in NTE2397 is 400V. That could be a reason...but, looking at the Current it can handle...it does more than 2397, either continuous or pulsed.

See if you could get IRF740
It has higher Drain to Source Breakdown of 400V

So, to me, I believe there could be something else wrong on your circuit...did you check the errors that diagram had from the start?...There is some connection either missing or wrong...ask Kogs, He knows.

The 12V MOV is just a 12V rated Varistor, (Metal Oxide Varistor=MOV) it is there to protect 555 and low voltage circuit.

Now, I hope you have an Ultra-Fast Diode like NTE576/UF505 between Source-Drain (S)--->l---(D)

When I have a chance, I will respond on your previous post on tests.


Regards


Ufopolitics


Regards

[ajaya999]

Dear Sir,

Hello Kumar,

Please compare the "Drain_to_Source Breakdown Voltage" ...in IRF540 it is rated at 100V, and in NTE2397 is 400V. That could be a reason...but, looking at the Current it can handle...it does more than 2397, either continuous or pulsed.

See if you could get IRF740
It has higher Drain to Source Breakdown of 400V

So, to me, I believe there could be something else wrong on your circuit...did you check the errors that diagram had from the start?...There is some connection either missing or wrong...ask Kogs, He knows.

The 12V MOV is just a 12V rated Varistor, (Metal Oxide Varistor=MOV) it is there to protect 555 and low voltage circuit.

Now, I hope you have an Ultra-Fast Diode like NTE576/UF505 between Source-Drain (S)--->l---(D)

When I have a chance, I will respond on your previous post on tests.


Regards


Ufopolitics


Regards

Namaste.

Thanks for the immediate response.

In fact I used IRF840A for the circuit. As you said, I must have done some big mistake

When I shared about the fried circuit with my sister, she was telling me " don't worry. unless you kill a few patients (of course unknowingly), you cannot become a good doctor"

IRF740 I can get here.

But sir, in the discussions in the MMTRE, the discussions were on over the deleted image files in the first several pages. It is difficult for people like me to follow them without the support of images. Somehow I was able to go forward and started understanding the discussions.

Anyhow I'll take Kogs help in the circuit.

Regarding the diodes I have UF5408 with me sir. But I didn't connect them between S and D . I read many times you were asking to do so. This time I will sir.


@kogs,

please upload the image of the correct 555 circuit of UFO. Sorry to trouble you as I know you are fully involved in making your bike.

Thanks in advance Kogs.

Regards and Namaste

Kumar

[Ufopolitics]

Dear Sir,



Namaste.

Thanks for the immediate response.

In fact I used IRF840A for the circuit. As you said, I must have done some big mistake

When I shared about the fried circuit with my sister, she was telling me " don't worry. unless you kill a few patients (of course unknowingly), you cannot become a good doctor"

IRF740 I can get here.

But sir, in the discussions in the MMTRE, the discussions were on over the deleted image files in the first several pages. It is difficult for people like me to follow them without the support of images. Somehow I was able to go forward and started understanding the discussions.

Anyhow I'll take Kogs help in the circuit.

Regarding the diodes I have UF5408 with me sir. But I didn't connect them between S and D . I read many times you were asking to do so. This time I will sir.


@kogs,

please upload the image of the correct 555 circuit of UFO. Sorry to trouble you as I know you are fully involved in making your bike.

Thanks in advance Kogs.

Regards and Namaste

Kumar

Hello Kumar,

I looked at circuit (again) and I believe you have the "updated" diagram, where from D3 it goes to Source (-)

Now, there was also an update in the LM317 Voltage regulator , please compare below:

[IMG][/IMG]

I noticed on your previous post you wrote:

At LM317 output I got 12V. But when I tried powering the circuit, the voltage was coming down to 4 at LM317 output and batteries voltage of 33v also was showing 23v or even less. DOn't know where I went wrong.

You can NOT operate the whole 555 circuit at 4 Volts.

Please redo Voltage Regulator LM317 circuit, according to above Diagram. And it should be ABOVE 12V even...on the measurement spot...close to 13V

Then forget about the IRF740...The 840 is supposed to be superior capacity right?...so, that is not your problem.

And yes, do NOT forget again to use the reverse Diode between Source-Drain protection...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[ajaya999]

Hello Kumar,

I looked at circuit (again) and I believe you have the "updated" diagram, where from D3 it goes to Source (-)

Now, there was also an update in the LM317 Voltage regulator , please compare below:

[IMG][/IMG]

I noticed on your previous post you wrote:



You can NOT operate the whole 555 circuit at 4 Volts.

Please redo Voltage Regulator LM317 circuit, according to above Diagram. And it should be ABOVE 12V even...on the measurement spot...close to 13V

Then forget about the IRF740...The 840 is supposed to be superior capacity right?...so, that is not your problem.

And yes, do NOT forget again to use the reverse Diode between Source-Drain protection...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Noted Sir.

Will follow the LM317 diagram. In my last built I followed the on that was discussed in Patrick's book.

Anyhow I'll build the one that you gave now. And as the total circuit that I have is OK, then I'll redo it sir and report back.

But my concern is 12v Mov. I'm not getting it here. In case I omit it ( being ready for one more fry ), then how to change the circuit?

Will not forget keeping diodes

Regards and Namaste

Kumar

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Sir,

Namaste.

it has been a long time I made my posting here in (y)our lovely ( love towards the angel ) thread.

I have not yet completed the complete fibreglass Hybrid Motor-Generator.

But meanwhile I completed my first 15-pole 1 hp machine.

Photos and videos I'll post in a day or two.
But I'd like to share my experience with it.

This motors was originally having an rpm of 1440 and the rotor current required as per manufacturer's specs is 230v@4 amps and stator current required is 230v@0.4 amps

while rewinding the armature for (y)our machine, I fully followed the design given by you.

I used 28SWG and took care to see that the ohms are at 2. The number of turns on each side of the coil was coming to between 23 and 25.

I didn't touch the stator. Just used the one given by the manufacturer.
The power given to it was 230v @0.4 amps

Hello Kumar,

Great, Two Ohms is fine...I will answer here all related Machines, not the 555 controller, we already did that...

I didn't use any pwm circuits in this run.

I connected the brushes with first 12V 7.5 Ah battery. Armature didn't move. Then I tried with 2 batteries of the same config. (2X12v 7.5 Ah). It started rotating at 600 rpm. But I was able to stop it with my hand. Barely no torque.

WRONG APPROACH KUMAR!!

You NEVER, EVER, if Motor does NOT MOVE...Keep adding more and more power to it!...EVER!

First thing to do is to check TIMING SETTINGS AGAIN...and AGAIN versus Diagrams. I am sure you are Firing the Pairs at the very wrong positioning related to Stators...and Stators are NOT the issue, cause you are using SAME power as factory...and have not mess up with its windings.

Something is DEFINITIVELY WRONG there, IF Motor does not even "attempt" to move with 12V 7.5 Amps.

Then I added one more battery and gave it 36 volts. The rpm went up to 1200. I was not able to stop the armature with my hands. When I tried, it got slowed down but didn't stop. I connected a dc bulb 12v 90watts
on generator side. the bulb lit with a minimum brightness. The rpm came down to about 700.

Then I added one more battery and gave it 47 volts. The rpm went beyond its design and jumped to more than 1700.

This time I didn't dare to try stopping it with my hands.

I used a pulley belt to check the torque.

I applied my full power, pulling the belt connected to the shaft. rpm came down to about 300-400, but it didn't stop.

This time I recorded the readings. Without any load the stator was reading 230v and .03 amps. The armature reading 47 volts and 1.3 amps .

When I tried to stop with the pulley belt, the armature current dropped to 1.1 amps and even I was able to see it at 0.9 amps many times.

Then I connected the bulb and it lit with full brightness. Here the rpm came down to 1200. I tried stopping the armature with the pulley belt again. Though the armature slowed down, I couldn't stop it. The bulb connected lost its brightness, but I was able to see the light in broad day light.

I ran it continuously for about 30 minutes. The batteries started reading 24 volts. In the beginning the voltage was 47v. I stopped the machine. Put the batteries to rest. In about 30 minutes I found the voltage again going up to 42 volts. This was about 3 pm and again when I checked the voltage in the night at around 10 pm I found it back to 47v. Then I didn't try for a week. Checked the voltage after a week and found it at 46v and after one more week yesterday I checked the voltage and it was 44V.

This is a VOID Test results...of course you will get it to run with more and more power...but NOT the right way though...you could have burnt the whole rotor within...did you mind reading temperature on rotor coils after testing?

However, according to your description of increased power...it seems your motor is timed to react on ATTRACT MODE and VERY FAR APART from Stator Bisectors...so it requires a HUGE amount of power to generate enough magnetic field strength on Pairs as to "decide" to start moving...you were lucky after all...IF Machine would have been on "TOO CLOSE REPULSE MODE" that would lock up...you would have burnt the whole thing.

Solution, go over the settings...Bisectors of Pairs "at work" (energized) versus Stator Bisectors...where are they at?...How far apart?...could you draw even a rough diagram and shut a picture of it?...JUST the Pairs Energized, Stators Position and of course Brush/Element position.

Meanwhile I built the design of by Netica - in complete wood. I tried winding the stator as directed by you. I used 19 SWG and 23 SWG bifilar coil. I went layer by layer winding and got about 25 layers with a resistance of 1.7


I started reading the MMTRE thread. I tried making a circuit. I couldn't get 12v MOV here. So I tried the one discussed in Patrick's book. NTE mosfets are not available for us here. I tried with IRF840. Somewhere something went wrong sir. I fried the mosfet At LM317 output I got 12V. But when I tried powering the circuit, the voltage was coming down to 4 at LM317 output and batteries voltage of 33v also was showing 23v or even less. DOn't know where I went wrong. when i disconnected the circuit, the batteries were showing 33v.When I connected it, the batteries volatge was showing at 23 or less.But I continued powering it, of course, without connecting the coil and found small fire of fist size near a mosfet and found it burnt completely. I will try again and report you.

Later I tried feeding the wound stator with direct batteries. But the armature didn't rotate even a cm. I think I wound the stator in a wrong way. I looked into your video ASYMMETRIC SINGLE COIL FIBERGLASS STATOR CORE and also netica's video. In Netica's I found the overlap on coil was only on top on one side and the other side and on bottom two sides the coils divided equally - no overlap. In yours, the overlap is coming on both sides on top.

My coil is having a overlap on top on one side and another overlap on bottom on the other side( diagonally). The second side on top and diagonally other side on bottom, the coils were divided into two. I kept a compass in between the stator and found that the poles were in correct mode - one north and one south. I reversed the battery polarities and the coil polarity also changed. Don't know where it went wrong.

Now I am trying to rewind the same and also rebuild the circuit. Will report to you with pictures and videos asap.

Sorry for such a lenghty post sir.

@
Hi Kogs,

Thanks a lot for your support and congrats on your two wheeler. I too will make it Kogs very soon. Otherwise my son will not leave me. He'll keep saying "Kogs uncle did it and you couldn't." You are troubling me a lot

Kogs I started learning electronics. Already burnt a mosfet but will make it Kogs. It's a very tiresome journey. But no way. We need to travel only to reach the goal. I know you will make it. And me too Kogs .

But can't resist to say "Great Kogs".

Regards and Namaste.

Kumar

Kumar, please, do NOT KEEP adding more projects, more complexity...if the FIRST ONE is NOT COMPLETED YET!!

That Motor is Under-Performing based on the Factory Spec's...

One thing at a time friend...just one...there is an old Italian saying..."Piano, piano va lontano..." (Easy, easy and slow you will get far away...)...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Noted Sir.

Will follow the LM317 diagram. In my last built I followed the on that was discussed in Patrick's book.

Anyhow I'll build the one that you gave now. And as the total circuit that I have is OK, then I'll redo it sir and report back.

But my concern is 12v Mov. I'm not getting it here. In case I omit it ( being ready for one more fry ), then how to change the circuit?

Will not forget keeping diodes

Regards and Namaste

Kumar

Kumar please read "slowly and easy..."

Read again my post above

See the part that reads...

The 12V MOV is just a 12V rated Varistor, (Metal Oxide Varistor=MOV) it is there to protect 555 and low voltage circuit.

¿?

Means it is NOT that important...you already have there the D3 4005 rectifying...

No more time on this topic HERE Kumar...please...The OTHER THREAD is intended for ALL Electronic and Controller Issues

It is OK to post here Diagrams related to EXTERNAL CONNECTIONS/WIRING...But NOT Electronics within devices...pls, help me keep Threads organized.


Thank You Sir


Ufopolitics

[ajaya999]

Dear Sir,

Something is DEFINITIVELY WRONG there, IF Motor does not even "attempt" to move with 12V 7.5 Amps.

It was making a little noise, but not rotating.

However, according to your description of increased power...it seems your motor is timed to react on ATTRACT MODE and VERY FAR APART from Stator Bisectors...so it requires a HUGE amount of power to generate enough magnetic field strength on Pairs as to "decide" to start moving...you were lucky after all...IF Machine would have been on "TOO CLOSE REPULSE MODE" that would lock up...you would have burnt the whole thing.

Solution, go over the settings...Bisectors of Pairs "at work" (energized) versus Stator Bisectors...where are they at?...How far apart?...could you draw even a rough diagram and shut a picture of it?...JUST the Pairs Energized, Stators Position and of course Brush/Element position.

I will check again sir. let me test it one more time. I promise I'll not burn it. but now I'm realising that I must not have energised the right pair.

Kumar, please, do NOT KEEP adding more projects, more complexity...if the FIRST ONE is NOT COMPLETED YET!!

sure sir. will go one by one.

update you with the results and also with a rough sketch.

regards and Namaste

kumar

[iankoglin]

Kogs Reply to UFO

G'day UFO
Thanks for the time and effort in drawing this for me
Is this the controller you have in your 0 Fuel bike

I have not been able to find any 48v 50 amp SPDT either toggle or rotary or rocker switches I spent a whole 3 days trying to find some
Please do you know where I can buy them?
My other questions are in Magenta Below

Hello Kogs!

Great...let's proceed...

Here is the Diagram Friend...

[IMG][/IMG]



Diodes D1, D2, D3 and D4 are preventing reverse spikes to dump on Caps from Motor, and I would use UF505/NTE576 or higher rated.

D5 between Batt and Negative Cap Bank is there to prevent Battery to dump charges back to Caps...only "one way" from Cap to Batt.
Is D5 the same diodes as D1 thru D4

A Mechanical Kill Switch will prevent from Battery drain when Nessie is completely turned off...besides the safety issues...plus also turning off S7 to disconnect caps from batteries. On Diagram switch (S7) disconnect Caps from batteries at time to store Nessie...or later on we could replace switch by a "smart" circuit that would turn off when batteries are fully charged...

The Kill switch I have already as the Master ON OFF switch that when I put the handle in then switch it ON there is power to the controller when I switch it OFF there is NO power to the controller when I take the handle out of the switch out nothing works I put in the handle then switch on and start the machine and IF necessary I need to kill the motor I just flick it to the OFF position
So do I need the Solenoid to a Key Switch?
The Cap Bank is like you have said, parallel to Batteries (understand this is NOT the Controller Cap Bank, but the Battery supply using Regen from our Asymmetric Machines Gates)...it should be rated according to your Battery Source size, always greater than, I would use -at least- a 100V Cap size bank, and I would go above the 1000 uF...say to 2200 uF or greater...could consult Sir John Stone on this to correct me if am wrong.

I was going to have 6-12v 7.2 AH/20HR giving36v or 24v which ever is needed to keep the motor below 200watts
or possibly buy 3 of these
SSB LFP14H-BS UltraLite Lithium
I can buy them @$140:00 each

The Contactor or Solenoid COIL MUST BE RATED, exactly, to the Battery Bank size, the Diode D6 must be 200V/3A and the PRE-CHARGE Resistor must be 1K Ohm and 10 Watts Minimum. This is done to avoid huge dump on Controller Cap Bank/sensitive tronics...

So...the Gears would be:

First Gear ALL Switches 1,2,3 and 4 ON...turning them on in a fast sequence while depressing accelerator slowly to make a smooth take off...and not Ramping it up too abrupt. This Gear is JUST intended to brake Inertia...and SHOULD NOT BE ON FOR A LONG TIME!

Second Gear, turn off SW4 leaving ON SW 1,2,3 (I have the same Pair sequence as Imperial here, but in your case the 16 Poles 1000W would be different, but results are the same...Four Gates)...So this would be your "passing gear".

Third Gear would be SW 1 and SW 2 ON...While SW3 and SW4 would be dumping to Cap Bank...Your Normal Cruising Gear after you have used Second to gain enough Speed Impulse.

Fourth Gear ( ONLY SW1 ON) could be used on down hills or flat straight line roads, after desired driving speed has been reached.

REMEMBER to ALWAYS DEPRESS Throttle when shifting Gears, then accelerate ONCE ENGAGED/ON...just like the "Play" between Clutch and Accelerator on a Manual/Stick Shift Vehicle...otherwise you could add damage to your commutator elements.




Kogs, remember to conduct a BENCH TEST first on this connections...or -at least- lifting Nessie's Driving Wheels OFF the GROUND (properly jacked up in stands) ...then take Nessie on a "stressful Run"...and check all temperature everywhere possible, mainly FET, and Motor Coils/Brushes.


Regards Friend, and any questions/doubts let me know.


Ufopolitics

Kindest Regards My friend

Kogs still chomping at the bit

[iankoglin]

Nessie's Progress

G'day All
Finished making the Mudguards just have to Epoxy them and paint them

The Building Of My Tricycle Slideshow by Kogs1 | Photobucket



Kogs getting there

[Ufopolitics]

G'day UFO
Thanks for the time and effort in drawing this for me
Is this the controller you have in your 0 Fuel bike

Hello my Dear Friend Kogs,

In my Xtreme Bike I bought a Brushless Kelly Controller, 8000 Watts, Bike has a 72 Volt LiPo at 60 Amps, and a Brushless Motor of 4500-5000 Watts, so nope, the controller is different (Three Cables out to Motor) than the one you need for Nessie...the one you have is the Brush Type Controller.

However, the wiring related to Contactor/solenoid and pre-charge resistor, diode at solenoid and kill switch is all from that circuit I have now on Xtreme Bike.

I have not been able to find any 48v 50 amp SPDT either toggle or rotary or rocker switches I spent a whole 3 days trying to find some
Please do you know where I can buy them?

Well friend, we are in different worlds......I got those switches at Radio Shack...but they are Single Throw, I used them for the tests on Imperial to Meccalte, and they hold up even though are rated for 12-24 V...and I took them to 48 V Tests.

SPST 12VDC/50A On/Off Toggle Switch : Toggle Switches | RadioShack.com

Search on EBAY...I found some SPDT rated at 50 Amps:

50 Amp Toggle Switch | eBay

I believe you would be able to find them...even though I tell you some I have tried from NAPA Auto Parts were rated same and did not hold on, either get stock or came loose at springs...so, it is like a Russian Roulette friend...

Do not worry about Voltage ratings...go by Amps, if 60 Amps go for it, even at 12V.

In case you can not find them... the other way would be by using Heavy Duty Relays rated at proper V&A...then connections using low rated switches to actuate relays coils...however, this is a more complicated wiring approach my friend.


My other questions are in Magenta Below

The Kill switch I have already as the Master ON OFF switch that when I put the handle in then switch it ON there is power to the controller when I switch it OFF there is NO power to the controller when I take the handle out of the switch out nothing works I put in the handle then switch on and start the machine and IF necessary I need to kill the motor I just flick it to the OFF position

Well, if you have already that mechanical switch/handle...and NOT a light duty Ignition Key Switch...then is ok

So do I need the Solenoid to a Key Switch?

A Solenoid advantage is that it does a Heavy Duty Contact, rated at High Amps, High Voltage by using a very low consuming, low amps contact through a small coil and the light duty ignition key...and by the way, I updated your circuit by exchanging Solenoid and Kill Switch places...below:

[IMG][/IMG]

Now the S7 could be eliminated if you want...since by cutting off Kill SW it disconnects Cap Bank.

On the other hand, the Pre-Charge Resistor (R1) at Solenoid, is highly recommended to avoid big dump of current at every start up from Caps/Batteries to Electronics (Controller).

I was going to have 6-12v 7.2 AH/20HR giving36v or 24v which ever is needed to keep the motor below 200watts
or possibly buy 3 of these
SSB LFP14H-BS UltraLite Lithium
I can buy them @$140:00 each

My Friend...start by using first a lower battery bank to do testing with...I would start at 24 Volts first testing ON BENCH...then on Nessie.
I would rather use a longer capacity batteries...like 20-30 Amp/Hour.

I would NOT get the 12V LiPo's by now...too expensive, plus their charging "rituals" are much more complicated in order to return power back to them...like a simple Lead Acid does it.

LiPo's can NOT get a Dump and expect to get charged "iso-facto" like a SLA Battery...You would need a specific Charger...Plus an Active BMS...and still, the ratio of charge is a much slower and complicated process.

Kindest Regards My friend

Kogs still chomping at the bit

Stay within the simple stuff first...and test run Nessie like this...you would be surprised..

Kind Regards friend


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

G'day UFO
Thanks for the time and effort in drawing this for me

D5 between Batt and Negative Cap Bank is there to prevent Battery to dump charges back to Caps...only "one way" from Cap to Batt.

Is D5 the same diodes as D1 thru D4

Kindest Regards My friend

Kogs still chomping at the bit

Hello Kogs,

Sorry I forgot about the D5 Diode question...D5 is meant to block Battery Bank from charging Cap Bank...however, it is also connected to the side coming from motor generator output, so I would say, yes, make D5 the same as D1-D4.


Regards Friend


Ufopolitics

[Midaztouch]

@UFO

Just got off of the phone with Imperial. They are shipping Dana's motor home next week. Joe said that the motor windings were smoking but the commutators are fine. From all of my hype, he was disappointed with the proformance from the motor. He hopes that our next motor test will be a good Dyno Test or it will be the last test from them.

UFO, your up to Bat!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Ufopolitics]

I don't know...

@UFO

Just got off of the phone with Imperial. They are shipping Dana's motor home next week. Joe said that the motor windings were smoking but the commutators are fine. From all of my hype, he was disappointed with the proformance from the motor. He hopes that our next motor test will be a good Dyno Test or it will be the last test from them.

UFO, your up to Bat!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

Hey my Friend Midaz!!

I have some discrepancy with Engineering Dept. at Imperial...They told you (after seen Diagrams, Videos, etc...) that it was the "Right Way" they have originally connected the Motor...

Sorry, but I disagree there, I have seen Dana's Motor on start up on many videos...and that Motor NEVER, skip a turn...meaning, never even "hesitated" to start running and very strong even at 12V...however, on their explanation/description on their first mail/first attempt to run it... they said they hook up everything without load on, and motor would not run/start...then increased voltage and still...it did not...till they decided to unhook it do to raising amps considerably...

Sorry friend...but the only way one of this motors would do something like that...would be under a VERY wrong connection.

But then again...We have to understand They are limited to responses due to "possible liabilities" for damaging a motor that does not belong to the corporation...even though they could have you agree or signed their "Disclaimer Forms"...still...I do not think they will be fully honest...and say..."Look Man, I believe we screwed up this motor from our first attempt..."

Anyways, related on Me traveling to Imperial Corp. anytime soon is not going to be possible my friend...

Besides...I have been working on N-Machines and ...applying those same concepts to Electrodynamics Magnetism ...I came back to Our Asymmetric Machines...applying those newly learned laws...and yes, so far they do work...meaning, there is a way to "upgrade/improve" our Machines beyond what we have so far in every aspect...at this moment am working on smaller poles designs...and only two stators.

Just trying to adapt it to Four Pole Systems...not simple.

I will be disclosing this findings pretty soon, just want to make sure before I do, testing several options.


Kind Regards Friend


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

What would be coming next?

Hello to All,

Just would like you Guys...to read a Post I wrote in another Thread:

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post252571

It would help You understand the Models I will be displaying here pretty soon...


Kind Regards


Ufopolitics

[lerameur]

hello,

I received a little with ago the John Stone monster circuit.
I am running a motor at 50% duty cycle with this circuit.
48v and I can see on the digital multimeter 11 amps.
The problem I am getting is that the DiodeS P6KE250 very hot and smoking after a minute...
The spec sheet says power dissipation of 5 watt . Any ideas why it is getting so hot ?
Merci,
Joel