My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Midaztouch]

UFO

Thank you! Got it


Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[joel321]

Hello all just recently started learning about asymmetric motors. Very very interesting....just a newbie question if some would give me the pleasure to answer.

If I build one of these motor for a cordless drill (dewalt 18V) will I see many improvements or is this more for big motors...thanks.

[GChilders]

small motors

@joel321

The thing to do is what most of us have done. Get 2 radio shack 5 pole motors or 2 gold mine motors at 3.5 each or so and modify them and answer your own question. Are you willing to sacrifice 2 18V cordless drills at about 150 - 200 dollars each on an experiment that you have no confidence in? I would happily do that after all of the motors that I have replicated and can answer with certainty that they will improve in performance. But you must remember that the motors will probably not fit back in the cases they came out of after they are altered. Their rotors will have 2 commutators instead of one and 2 pairs of brushes instead of one pair. If you have a lot of cordless drills that are of the same brand and rotors commutators are the same then, and they are broken then by all means use them to make a replication. Try it, you will like it.

Cheers

Garry

[GChilders]

Acceleration under load on larger motors

@ufoPolitics

ufo I was wondering if perhaps the reason that you are not seeing more acceleration under load on the larger motors was that the load is too light. Instead of using a turn signal bulb, try using a halogen head lamp bulb and see if a larger load gives greater acceleration. It would be an easy and interesting test and may give unexpected results. Wouldn't it be great if the larger motors would accelerate more the larger the load that is put on it?

Cheers

Garry

[sampojo]

RE2 Joel

Hello all just recently started learning about asymmetric motors. Very very interesting....just a newbie question if some would give me the pleasure to answer.

If I build one of these motor for a cordless drill (dewalt 18V) will I see many improvements or is this more for big motors...thanks.

Its for any and everything, all would be better. But you would have to redesign the entire drill to take advantage. It takes parts of 2 motors to build one and it usually bigger than before with brushes on both ends of the motor. (although this thread has run motors with commutators all on one side). the redesigned motor will not fit in the same footprint.

We are an international design team working out of garages to build electric motors superior in every way compared to corporations with computer aided maunfacturing and engineering teams. We scramble just to build one at a time. Join the effort.

Build a small hobby conversion as documented at the beginning only use the group windings Ufo is proposing now. Then build bigger. When you have a good demo model make an appointment with a local electric motor company, show them what you have and go into production...

[joel321]

Gchilders, sampojo,

Thanks for the information. I think i'm going to go ahead and experiment...yes I am a tool junkie so I own a lot of tools (my thing) but I also know where to buy just the motors....thanks I will experiment.

FWIT, I'm loving the brushless technology in portable drills that many tools are coming out with...keep up the good work guys.

Peace.

[Midaztouch]

Gchilders, sampojo,

Thanks for the information. I think i'm going to go ahead and experiment...yes I am a tool junkie so I own a lot of tools (my thing) but I also know where to buy just the motors....thanks I will experiment.

FWIT, I'm loving the brushless technology in portable drills that many tools are coming out with...keep up the good work guys.

Peace.

Hi Joel

Since you like brushless, check out UFOs asymmetric brushless motor videos part 1 & 2
It's our future focus

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JmTxv1pWFaQ

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Midaztouch]

@Team

Could we use two ultra capacitors? The first One as a buffer from the power supply to the motor. The second for collecting energy from the generator action. Then connect second capacitor to the first capacitor.

Since there is around one amp from the rs 5 pole's generator action. Could you please try this set up with the 5 pole rs motor, two capacitors, a regular 9volt battery and mechanical load; plane propeller

If you have some free time or want something to try. It could be interesting

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[sampojo]

GM window regulator unipolar progress

Motor is coming together:




Now for more hard stuff. Of course it is binding. Cant get it together without brush retainers, one side is done, as you may notice in the pics. Screwed up and used a case hardened washer on the last one that forms the bearing seat. Gotta go thru it for the retainers and every time I use a hack saw on them I throw it away. Gotta center the bearings, that will take forever. (but not as long as boring out my quad pentagon motor body at least, of these components.) I am afraid my comms sit to far into the brush holder and may be binding there too. Hopefully washer spacers between the motor and endplates will do the trick. In other words winding soon?

Building electric motors ain't easy.

[Midaztouch]

Hi Team

Yesterday I had an appointment at the Department of Energy. I got to speak to the top boss because he was the only one that spoke English. He's about 70yrs and I would call him a master of his field. We discussed our Asymmetric Motor design, Regenerative Acceleration and wireless energy transfer.

First of all he didn't know anything about asymmetric motors. He thinks that it's very interesting though.

Secondly, Japanese people don't believe in regenerative acceleration. They call it "Energy Recycling". They didn't have much success with energy recycling and it was abandoned decades ago. But asymmetric motors using the recycling principal was very interesting for him.

Third, we talked about pulsing the motor with the JS Quad Monster to create wireless energy. I think it could be done but he said its not possible. (Does anyone have any thoughts about wireless energy?)

He said a lot of the ideas were interesting and he will contact a professor friend, that he used to work with.

Coincidently, yesterday was Earth Day

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[iankoglin]

Nessie a Lady in Waiting

Hello Kogs!

Great...let's proceed...


Here is the Diagram Friend...

[IMG][/IMG]

The Cap Bank is like you have said, parallel to Batteries (understand this is NOT the Controller Cap Bank, but the Battery supply using Regen from our Asymmetric Machines Gates)...it should be rated according to your Battery Source size, always greater than, I would use -at least- a 100V Cap size bank, and I would go above the 1000 uF...say to 2200 uF or greater...could consult Sir John Stone on this to correct me if am wrong.

The Contactor or Solenoid COIL MUST BE RATED, exactly, to the Battery Bank size, the Diode D6 must be 200V/3A and the PRE-CHARGE Resistor must be 1K Ohm and 10 Watts Minimum. This is done to avoid huge dump on Controller Cap Bank/sensitive tronics...

So...the Gears would be:

First Gear ALL Switches 1,2,3 and 4 ON...turning them on in a fast sequence while depressing accelerator slowly to make a smooth take off...and not Ramping it up too abrupt. This Gear is JUST intended to brake Inertia...and SHOULD NOT BE ON FOR A LONG TIME!

Second Gear, turn off SW4 leaving ON SW 1,2,3 (I have the same Pair sequence as Imperial here, but in your case the Not 16 poles 20Poles 1000W

would be different, but results are the same...Four Gates)...So this would be your "passing gear".

Third Gear would be SW 1 and SW 2 ON...While SW3 and SW4 would be dumping to Cap Bank...Your Normal Cruising Gear after you have used Second to gain enough Speed Impulse.

Fourth Gear ( ONLY SW1 ON) could be used on down hills or flat straight line roads, after desired driving speed has been reached.

REMEMBER to ALWAYS DEPRESS Throttle when shifting Gears, then accelerate ONCE ENGAGED/ON...just like the "Play" between Clutch and Accelerator on a Manual/Stick Shift Vehicle...otherwise you could add damage to your commutator elements.




Kogs, remember to conduct a BENCH TEST first on this connections...or -at least- lifting Nessie's Driving Wheels OFF the GROUND (properly jacked up in stands) ...then take Nessie on a "stressful Run"...and check all temperature everywhere possible, mainly FET, and Motor Coils/Brushes.


Regards Friend, and any questions/doubts let me know.


Ufopolitics

G'day UFO
I have almost all the electronic parts to complete Nessie's Heart
I am about to assemble this circuit for Nessie and really would like to be able to switch the motor in reverse
What is required to switch the motor and Cap bank could I use a rotary say an 8 Pole double throw and where should I place it I imagine it should be at the Motor before the DPDT 50 amp toggles.

I am in the process of testing the 1000w motor I will make a video both with a copy of the original 6 Mosfet circuit like I have in the lighting of the 5 CFL bulbs and then another one with JS. Monster

when I finish Nessie and you are satisfied with the all North P56 I will wire one I have here,
Kindest Regards My Friend


Kogs Nessie is a Lady in Waiting

[warrensk]

Wireless Energy

@midaztouch,

If the DC part of the generator output is blocked...and the AC or "impulse"/radiant electricity is balanced with the correct sized capacitor (to annul the inductive reactance with capacitive reactance..ie resonance!) then this type of energy can be inductively coupled via primary/secondary (tesla type coil)....like this....(i believe these motors to be the type of motor/generators used in his apparatus)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrqFQRh5I6Y
EDIT: This system is not balanced as well as it could have been...the electrolytic cap should not be used...output went up when I used mica caps instead....

When the secondary is connected to ground, this develops a way of storing energy in the form of resonance and the ground becomes an antenna...the whole system must vibrate at the same natural vibration of the motor as it is pulsed...the other end of the secondary must be capacitively coupled via electric field to any receiver...


From my experience I can say energy can only be transferred via 1 wire with low voltage input...

However, according to tesla himself, a large capacitive terminal (i mean huge, think of a tree root system as the grounding system vs branches/leaves as the ariel) on the secondary can annul the intercapacitance of the coil and when balanced correctly will produce electrical oscillations in the ground...(i have proved this also, however distance is limited with low voltage systems)

There seems to be a threshold here...you need a certain amount of voltage to really "punch through" and push current up into the large capacitive terminal.

So in short, if we use these motors as is, extensive research much be done to really balance the system if true wireless is to be obtained...I have proved it can be done with a single wire so far...and it seems there are little limits of how many other receivers can be attached...This is multiplication of energy via the physics of resonance...Check out the other yt videos I have for more information on how this "negative" energy can be multiplied. If we made a HV motor, then this system could really work wireless...check out teslas high frequency alternators...he used these to transmit power....

Hope this helps,

warrensk

[Midaztouch]

@midaztouch,

If the DC part of the generator output is blocked...and the AC or "impulse"/radiant electricity is balanced with the correct sized capacitor (to annul the inductive reactance with capacitive reactance..ie resonance!) then this type of energy can be inductively coupled via primary/secondary (tesla type coil)....like this....(i believe these motors to be the type of motor/generators used in his apparatus)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrqFQRh5I6Y
EDIT: This system is not balanced as well as it could have been...the electrolytic cap should not be used...output went up when I used mica caps instead....

When the secondary is connected to ground, this develops a way of storing energy in the form of resonance and the ground becomes an antenna...the whole system must vibrate at the same natural vibration of the motor as it is pulsed...the other end of the secondary must be capacitively coupled via electric field to any receiver...


From my experience I can say energy can only be transferred via 1 wire with low voltage input...

However, according to tesla himself, a large capacitive terminal (i mean huge, think of a tree root system as the grounding system vs branches/leaves as the ariel) on the secondary can annul the intercapacitance of the coil and when balanced correctly will produce electrical oscillations in the ground...(i have proved this also, however distance is limited with low voltage systems)

There seems to be a threshold here...you need a certain amount of voltage to really "punch through" and push current up into the large capacitive terminal.

So in short, if we use these motors as is, extensive research much be done to really balance the system if true wireless is to be obtained...I have proved it can be done with a single wire so far...and it seems there are little limits of how many other receivers can be attached...This is multiplication of energy via the physics of resonance...Check out the other yt videos I have for more information on how this "negative" energy can be multiplied. If we made a HV motor, then this system could really work wireless...check out teslas high frequency alternators...he used these to transmit power....

Hope this helps,

warrensk

Hey Warren!

I was hoping you would respond. I subscribed to your YouTube channel. You and your crew are working really hard at wireless energy. I really appreciate all the work that you all are doing. Your contribution is invaluable for the integration of Wireless Energy coupled to Asymmetric Motors. Thank you!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[Ufopolitics]

Reversing Nessie...

G'day UFO
I have almost all the electronic parts to complete Nessie's Heart
I am about to assemble this circuit for Nessie and really would like to be able to switch the motor in reverse
What is required to switch the motor and Cap bank could I use a rotary say an 8 Pole double throw and where should I place it I imagine it should be at the Motor before the DPDT 50 amp toggles.

I am in the process of testing the 1000w motor I will make a video both with a copy of the original 6 Mosfet circuit like I have in the lighting of the 5 CFL bulbs and then another one with JS. Monster

when I finish Nessie and you are satisfied with the all North P56 I will wire one I have here,
Kindest Regards My Friend


Kogs Nessie is a Lady in Waiting

Hello Kogs,

Ouch!...You should have told me this "reversal mode" operation before getting all this wiring...

The reverse shifting should be at least half of the source power...as per many EV Designs...

In our case related to Four Stator/Four Brush asymmetric machines...we just need Two Inputs to be reversed, preferably apart by 180º in order to have a balanced force.

Normally Reverse and Forward are just a Single mechanical heavy duty shifter, like the ones used in Golf Carts and small EV's. in order to separate forward and reverse to two different and apart at each extremes...having a Neutral/Park centered position.

It is required that you install a similar type of Master Switch, that would CANCEL all Forward MAIN CONTACT switching when reversing. However, you will need to use accelerator/controller to reverse slowly...

In conclusion, you must do a separate wiring for reversing passing through that Master switch for F&R...then direct cables would go to Motor and to controller reversing gates Input Polarity.

It will take me a while to show this Diagram...basically redoing the whole thing over...


Regards Kogs


Ufopolitics

[sampojo]

GM window regulator conversion to unipolar progress

Centering up bearing housings almost done, All by trial and error, by eye. Shocked, it is almost turning freely. Trimmed some extraneous plastic nodes on the brush harness, use the gasket on housing and I hope he commutators clear the harness. Brush retainers working but I have to develop a fastening method for the harness to the endplates now also. If all goes well winding this weekend?

update: catching in one spot, brushes too tight.