My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

I believe so...

Hello Ufo.

I think you have really found the Dragless Generator of Tesla. Its a matter of time That design of All North Pole Rotor is actually the key to the Generator of Nikola Tesla which accelerate when underload.

Thanks Stupify, I believe so...I believe We found the key.

Man. You are making history now, just analyze it a little and combine it to the Generator of Tesla which you have found the correct winding.

Keep up the good work

stupify12

I think we have almost every parameter working on our side this way...assisting not opposing.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[warrensk]

Can't wait to transfer the power tesla style!

This new winding really does look great, closest thing to an actual tesla generator schematic ive seen...I will be winding soon...I accidentally burned my commutators so i ordered 2 more motors...going to burn and wind them soon. Then experiments with transferring the energy off the generator side will come next!

There could be something to say about how much energy you can "pull" from the generator side...tesla was all about charging a capacitor and discharging it in an very small frame of time...often saying he could turn a 1kw generator into 3-5kw using these methods...


-----------------

[sampojo]

Pole connection methods winding direction

ufo,
Glad u said brushes dead center of magnet cuz no tuning avbl. on this style motor. I'd like to go over the standard connectivity you use in your diagrams. Front and Top commutator is the positive connection. And winding direction will be clockwise? One day soon I hope I will know it cold which way the pole in a coil will face! Gonna have to pull out my college E&M texts.

Thanks
Sam

Update: 3 coils wound last night. Looks like enough room for coil #4 with hedges. On a ten pole, once I get to coil 4, at least one slot is completely filled, right UFO? So I think it's tracking on my wire length calculation.
Update 2: 5 wound, group wire length looks good.
Update 3: 3 to go, pic show alternating wire colors

[iankoglin]

G'day UFO
I did not receive any reply from the E-Switch 4RH Series
I did however receive a reply from China I sent a copy of your Circuit for Nessie showing the Forward and Return contacts and they sent me a reply I did not show the email reply I just copied the downloads to my Photo Bucket here

Quotation For Rotary Switch Photos by Kogs1 | Photobucket

There does no seem to be any rotary switches available in Aus.
I do not understand how these rotary switches work
Please are these OK

Kindest regards

[iankoglin]

Good Day Kogs!

Excellent work my friend!

Yeah, those motors are running super smooth, non stopping torque!...And of course Torque MATTERS...we are referring to A MOTOR here...and motors are to render mechanical work...

I wanna see that Imperial kicking some A**!...

Now Kogs, I see you already made the brush connections internally in order to take out just four cables...two red, two black wires coming out of motor for a Four Brush system, then I assume you have connected Input in Parallel and Output (Generator) in series...am I correct?

Any ways, here are a couple of tests I would like you to film for Us here, on this same 1000W Razor.

1- Try Pulsing this Motor with the old 555 oscillator you excited your coils in my first Thread here...and test same things...RPM's, Amps and V Out (Generator)...while trying to stop it with the wood sticks...please see if you could do it with three voltage values.

2- Try this connection below:

[IMG][/IMG]

You already tested the CONNECTION 2 on your video above...but ple4ase do the Right Upper CONNECTION 1...then measure all parameters again.

First try it "linear" or straight from batteries (no pulse)...then try it pulsing motor, same connection, same measurements.


All this testing could also be applicable to your Imperial Beast as well...


...and be careful with those knees when you are lifting Imperial or Mecc Alte...they are heavy machines.


Excellent, beautiful work my Dear Friend!...and many, many thanks for sharing all this videos freely.


Warm Regards


Ufopolitics

G'day UFO
While I am always waiting for parts I thought I might do something with the smaller Motors so I took the MY1060 20 pole and connected as you suggested above I first tried with 12 v straight then connected to the copy of the Mosfet driver circuit I used Originally and I was quite impressed
I did not take a video as I have to move toooo much to be able to present it but the results are
----vIn,..., Amps draw, VOut, AmpsOut
----12.46vin, 2.2A, 23.3vout, 0.006A
----24.60vin, 2.2A, 46.2vout, 0.021A
----37.00vin, 2.3A, 67.0vout, 0.270A

John Bedini has always said when charging a battery you always have to dump twice the battery voltage

Tomorrow I will try to put the output back into the battery
When I finish testing I will clear a space to make a video

Thanks for My friend for all your effort in helping Us here
I know how long it takes me to do things

Kindest regards

Kogs a bit slow but getting there

[GlenWV]

G'day UFO
I did not receive any reply from the E-Switch 4RH Series
I did however receive a reply from China I sent a copy of your Circuit for Nessie showing the Forward and Return contacts and they sent me a reply I did not show the email reply I just copied the downloads to my Photo Bucket here

Quotation For Rotary Switch Photos by Kogs1 | Photobucket

There does no seem to be any rotary switches available in Aus.
I do not understand how these rotary switches work
Please are these OK

Kindest regards

Kogs:

Have you looked into the Kraus & Naimer switches?
You can find them on Ebay:
Kraus Naimer C42 A250 Contact Rotary Switch | eBay

Mouser:
"rotary switch" Switches | Mouser

Newark:
Rotary Switches | Newark element14 US

Good Luck,

glen

[Holbi]

Guide to the begginners

Hello Ufopolitics and Hello all members on this thread.

There are different type of DC motors. With brush, brush less, etc.

What is the suggestion, what type of and what size of motor should be the first subject of reconstruction into Asymmetrical type electric machine?

So, how to start as a beginner?

Thank you for the answer for advance, and kindest regards:
Holbi

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Ufopolitics and Hello all members on this thread.

There are different type of DC motors. With brush, brush less, etc.

What is the suggestion, what type of and what size of motor should be the first subject of reconstruction into Asymmetrical type electric machine?

So, how to start as a beginner?

Thank you for the answer for advance, and kindest regards:
Holbi

Hello Holbi,

I recommend to start by a low number of poles motor...basically a simple Three Pole, then do a Five Pole All North.

There is a place called Goldmine Motors, where you could find very cheap prices in packs.

Some of the guys here know which ones are the Three and the Five types.

Good luck


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Zardox]

5 pole

Here is the link to the 5 pole motor. I am working on this one in my spare time. However for a beginner I would recommend the radio shack motor. I believe it is a little easier.

[Zardox]

forgot the link

Electronic Goldmine - 12VDC Motor

[Zardox]

One more time

Electronic Goldmine - 12VDC Motor

[Holbi]

Hello Ufopolitics,
Hello Zardox,

Thank you for the suggestion.
Unfortunately the Electronic Goldmine is located in the US and shipping goods to Europe cost about ~ $110 - $150, and for the $3.49 piece, it is not the best deal.

But using the Electronic Goldmine and Radio Shack data I have found some local distributor of small size DC motors with price between $1.5 - $20. The size is usually too same like G18945 at Electronic Goldmine - 12VDC Motor

Unfortunately there are no data available on-line about these DC motors but for the $1.5 I think possible to try what is inside.

I will purchase a few pieces and will post the results of conversion into asymmetrical type.

Regards:
Holbi

[sampojo]

Holbi what if

Does Europe have junkyards? Window regulator motors are a nice size to work with, large not just a toy, might be able to do real work with it. I can actually actually get them shipped to my door in the US cheaper than if I go to a junkyard here in the USA and try to buy it from a u-pull-it yard. (I got it less once when I got the right guy and bought several at once). Having to go to 32ga on the toy motors is like working with hair. I think the RS motors are 28ga, and at the beginning of the thread I think Ufo recommended 30ga, and now I believe he even recommended 32ga there. And my experience with those motors at 30ga tell me they had a heat problem. So I would concur with the 32ga recommendation.

Also we could make arrangements to make purchases for you here and ship them to you. Paypal could be used as it allows payments to individuals, no extra charge. Shipping and handling fairly affordable, $5-15 usd. I have done this for Cornboy, we ordered in bulk and split things, shipped to Australia. That took awhile there, 3 wks? for him to get them.

[sampojo]

Completed GM G10 unipolar winding completed, tested

exploded view shows rotor winding completed, how I balanced rotor, and endplates. Just used those letter openers as steel rails for the motor to roll frictionless on a level surface. stuck 18ga wrapped steel wire on one site to get it balanced, as wire hedges, fit snug and glued. use wood hedges on the other slots, glued.



Estimate 1.1 ohms per coil. Ran the motor, on 12v. one brush set 3200 rpm powered, 8v out of the other, 1.5A, ran at hottest point 110degF

Powered both brush sets the same battery: 3900 rpm, amps on the firsts coil dropped to .7A. Couldn't get a reading on the amps on the other coil for some reason. (Multimeter issues?, tried 2 or 3), but even so looks like rpm went up and amps stayed the same if you figure both coils were taking the same amperage. I could stop the motor with my fingers on one coil, probably not on 2. Pretty interesting how much the amps dropped on the one pair. Try to get some video soon

My Quad stator pentagon winding motor did 7500 rpm on one brush set if I remember right, drew 2.5A, 8600 with 2 brushes. I think I had .7 ohms per brush set though, got up to 130 dF the day I blew a brush set, used solder. so it needs reworked.

This motor is too stiff to turn yet, no where as loose as my QP10. Gotta look at brush tension again, pretty sure it isn't binding. If the brushes are sharing the amperage equally then I got more rpm for the same load when running both sets in parallel. The commutators are looking kinda dirty too.

You can see my QP10 run on UFO's site where I earned honors for that job!

So working toward some better results...

[Holbi]

Junkyards as DC motor source

Does Europe have junkyards? Window regulator motors are a nice size to work with, large not just a toy, might be able to do real work with it. I can actually actually get them shipped to my door in the US cheaper than if I go to a junkyard here in the USA and try to buy it from a u-pull-it yard. (I got it less once when I got the right guy and bought several at once). Having to go to 32ga on the toy motors is like working with hair. I think the RS motors are 28ga, and at the beginning of the thread I think Ufo recommended 30ga, and now I believe he even recommended 32ga there. And my experience with those motors at 30ga tell me they had a heat problem. So I would concur with the 32ga recommendation.

Also we could make arrangements to make purchases for you here and ship them to you. Paypal could be used as it allows payments to individuals, no extra charge. Shipping and handling fairly affordable, $5-15 usd. I have done this for Cornboy, we ordered in bulk and split things, shipped to Australia. That took awhile there, 3 wks? for him to get them.

Dear Sampojo,

Thank you very much for the idea.
Of course there are several junkyards in Europe, even int the central and eastern part of Europe. It is traditional form here to find parts to the cars because a decade ago there was not part supply chain to the "western" cars.

I could find here local junkyards online with window regulator DC motors starting from $9.0 for a FIAT, and around me here in the 1000 m circle there are 3 junkyards also.

The small DC motors like G18945 at the Electronic Goldmine - 12VDC Motor
or this below on the image from our local electric store are really toys and too small (for me).


Junkyards, and used car parts, window regulator motors are really good idea.

Regards:
Holbi