My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[GeorgeKn]

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[Midaztouch]

Hi everyone

Here is a blast from the past. This was one of the first vids that really caught my eye and help me see the potential of asymmetric technology. The beginning, 3pole.

Enjoy
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8dZz05oC-90



Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[vidbid]

CORE GasLess Power - Intelligent Technology to Replace Gas

Hi UFO,

I would like your opinion about this CORE technology.

I was wondering if there could be an asymmetrical analog or version of it.

Lincoln Jore and Matt Jore came up with the idea of eliminating the wire windings and iron laminations used in conventional motors by embedding copper-etched conductors into a multi-layered printed circuit board to form a stator that works in conjunction with permanent magnets to produce torque in a new type of ironless and wireless motor. They created a special pattern of conductive material, laid out on individual layers of conductive material, and laminated and interconnected to each other to form an efficient, compact, and powerful stator. After six years of development by the Jores and Core Motion, Inc., the technology is now being referred to as CORE™ (Conductor Optimized Rotary Energy). With the highest energy factor per weight of any existing motor or engine, and one-third to one-fifth the size and use of raw materials, CORE™ Technology is designed to replace existing conventional motion devices, motors, and engines. The process for manufacturing a CORE™ stator is the same well-known and mature process used in the construction of printed circuit boards (PCBs) and is, as such, a very reliable and cost-effective production process. Driven largely by the tremendous growth of the computer industry over the past thirty years, PCB manufacturing has evolved into one of the most mature and reliable methods of manufacturing. The proprietary CORE™ stator design allows for elimination of wires and is at the center of a portfolio of very unique and broad patent claims. Core Motion, Inc. has been issued patents, based on US Patent No. 7,109,625, in thirty-two countries covering broad claims relating to the CORE™ technology and several new patents on improvements are pending.

In most states, emissions standards, such as those set in California, have been adopted and are seriously challenging manufacturers of gasoline engine-powered products. As a completely gas-free system, CORE™ technology provides the unique ability to exceed these noise, efficiency, and emission standards without increasing costs and without sacrificing performance.

Source: HHO Hydrogen Stanley Meyer

A friend of mine told me about this new motor design by Lincoln M Jore and Matthew B Jore. It's amazing to look at.

Patent: https://www.google.com/patents/US7109625

Company Website: Core Outdoor Power

Regards,

VIDBID

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Vidbid

Hi UFO,

I would like your opinion about this CORE technology.

I was wondering if there could be an asymmetrical analog or version of it.



Regards,

VIDBID

Hello Vidbid,

It is a nice design, a brushless with axial fields assembly, its uniqueness is based on the Coils "printed" or Layered on that green circuit board...along with the sensors, etc.
This design compacts the motor into a nice, very flat "Pancake" style.

But we have had very similar designs before...like the Capstan Motor for the old tape Camcorders ...and some late generation VCR's...as also some Hard Drive Motors...etc,etc

On the Technical side, I like the fact to use A+ and A- connectors for all Three Phases (A,B and C)...based on this we could say that they are not reversing the fields like in other brushless types that uses just A,B and C Inputs...So, this makes it "easier" for controllers not to be of a Negative-Positive Square Wave, but simple flow one way.

Such compact design, where the "main core or heart" of this CORE TECH is on that circuit board...makes it difficult to evaluate as if it is or not asymmetrical in their way to switch fields related to the magnets rotors...but, according to the way they hook as positive-negative fields input...we could say it is "pretty" asymmetrical...

What I see as a draw back is that Huge Battery Pack...plus the fact that motor is very closed...circuit board should get pretty hot...even though I see nicely widen copper strips as the transfer conductors from coil to coil.

But, nice design though...different, thanks for sharing it here Vidbid!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[vidbid]

Hello Vidbid,

It is a nice design, a brushless with axial fields assembly, its uniqueness is based on the Coils "printed" or Layered on that green circuit board...along with the sensors, etc.
This design compacts the motor into a nice, very flat "Pancake" style.

But we have had very similar designs before...like the Capstan Motor for the old tape Camcorders ...and some late generation VCR's...as also some Hard Drive Motors...etc,etc

On the Technical side, I like the fact to use A+ and A- connectors for all Three Phases (A,B and C)...based on this we could say that they are not reversing the fields like in other brushless types that uses just A,B and C Inputs...So, this makes it "easier" for controllers not to be of a Negative-Positive Square Wave, but simple flow one way.

Such compact design, where the "main core or heart" of this CORE TECH is on that circuit board...makes it difficult to evaluate as if it is or not asymmetrical in their way to switch fields related to the magnets rotors...but, according to the way they hook as positive-negative fields input...we could say it is "pretty" asymmetrical...

What I see as a draw back is that Huge Battery Pack...plus the fact that motor is very closed...circuit board should get pretty hot...even though I see nicely widen copper strips as the transfer conductors from coil to coil.

But, nice design though...different, thanks for sharing it here Vidbid!


Regards


Ufopolitics

Thanks UFO for a truly thoughtful and impressive analysis.

Regards,

VIDBID

[Ufopolitics]

Feeding Asymmetrical Machine with split power source

Hello Guys!,

Wake Up!!

Third Video is on link below:

ASYMMETRY FED BY SPLIT BANKS (THIRD VIDEO)

Diagram for Video Tests plus Switching Details below:

[IMG][/IMG]

TESTING POWER SOURCE/STORAGE SIDE BANKS WITH ASYMMETRIC FIVE POLE ALL NORTH RS MACHINE

FIRST: Drain Super Caps Banks until Rotor reaches a complete stop.

I considered this part very important to do it front of Cam, making sure Caps are drained to Min Values where rotor will not spin in either BOTH Positions (Parallel or Series)

SECOND: Measure Top Speed running Motor just on side Battery Banks.

It is interesting to observe here not only the Max Speed obtained, but also the TIME it took to reach on "fresh" battery banks

THIRD: Start Charging/Balancing Supercaps by Parallel connection (P2) till we reach about same RPM's as we obtained with Batteries.

Important to observe the "Price" we pay by draining Caps to Min previously...as RPM's dropped to 2100...but mainly is done to notice how the flow of

charges travels from one bank to the other through our Motor until reaching very close values at both ends.

FOURTH: Stop System, measure Supercaps Stored Voltage by the Generation of Asymmetric Machine in Series connection, Batteries must be OFF.

Here we notice Cap Banks have almost doubled the Battery Initial Voltage...

FIFTH: Run Motor just on Supercaps Series connect (P1), measure RPM's

Motor reaches over 13,000 RPM's...that is almost double the value than Batteries Max Speed originally measured.

SIXTH: Stop System, measure independently both Battery Banks, read lost power compared to starting V.

Batteries lost around 0.100 mV per each bank.

SEVENTH: Run Motor just on Batteries, Supercaps OFF, compare RPM's time to reach Max initial speed.

Important here is to notice the TIME it took to reach 7000 RPM's versus prior test with freshly charged batteries.

1-FIRST BATT TEST: I turned On Batteries at Video Time 9:38 , Motor reaches 7000 RPM's at Time 10:15, elapsed Time=0:37 Seconds.
2-SECOND BATT TEST: I turned On Batteries at Time 22:49, Motor reaches 7000 RPM's at 22:52, elapsed time= 0:03 Seconds

EIGHTH:Running Motor on charged Supercaps AND Batteries...notice when batteries are turned off (first one bank, then the other) we observe a considerable

increase of speed/voltage at a "per bank" occurrence...

CONCLUSIONS.

We have a "raw" and simple switching system that is very flexible for manipulating energy control...with very small battery cells we obtain "High Performance" only expected from more clever and expensive set up...Supercaps are very light in weight.

The number of combinations alternating between Batteries and Supercap Banks, as well as having a simple BMS built within, in order to balance out "per cell" while charging our storing banks give Us a very wide range of options...all of this while Machine running...

I have performed on this video CRITICAL TESTING, by draining Supercaps to MIN Values where rotor would not spin, by doing this, I set a super heavy LOAD on our small machine...let's realize this never occur in reality on a typical running system, Supercaps retain charges for very long periods of time...and it is understood that reasonably charged supercaps will not offer such high resistance values like they do at low voltage rates.

Supercaps, once charged up and connected in series, deliver/dump charges back to our Machine "randomly and too fast"...to the point of reaching almost double the Batteries running speed...so, if we could disburse/adjust this flow "more conservatively" (through Electronics, NOT RESISTORS) in order to maintain the same running speed as batteries did,we will have much longer periods of running time...

In larger number of Coils, and Four System Stators/Brushes Machines, we will obtain superb results with this same set up, EXCEPT that in this type of Machines we could dedicate Two Inputs for Battery Banks, while Supercaps Banks would be set at the Output Gates, this way, being completely isolated from one to the other.

Next, I will be making a Graphic of V and RPM's versus Time...from this video.

Once You digest this whole thing...would like to hear your opinions...


Thanks and Kind Regards to All !


Ufopolitics

[IndianaBoys]

Imperial Motor Contact Info for UFO Kit Part# 0524021

Ufopolitics,

Good work my friend!

Called Dyann and got a couple UFO Kits on order.

Thanks to all those who helped assemble this information as well as contribute to bring this forward.

The UFO KIT Part# is 0524021

The price is still $276.15 USD plus shipping.

Dyann's direct line 1-440-349-4083-ext#117

Email: derosad@imperialelectric.com

[Midaztouch]

BOOM! This is the start of underground EV RACING! UFO style!!!

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[RandyFL]

DC Motors...

Hello All

What size DC motor would be needed to run a Automobile Air Conditioner...?
I have a 2002 Toyota 1.8L ICE...
I Googled the question and got a relative answer of about 5 Hp ( to me that seems like over kill )
Baldor's 5 DC hp is over 1000.00
Leeson's is around 500.00
These are on the shelf sysmetrical motors ( that could be assymetrically wound of course ) but just figuring out parameters for now...
What I've noticed is: In Florida ( naturally hot summer weather of course ) it takes about 10 -15 minutes for the ac to start cooling the car off,whenst the car sits in the sun. But if I drive alittle faster the ac cools the car off much faster... I don't have a Tach in the Toyota but assuming 50 miles is around 3k - 5k rpm s
Here's the bottom line question...
Wouldn't a 2 Hp dc motor running at 3000 rpm be sufficient to run a ICE ac compressor?

Any and all comments welcome
All the best

RandyFL

[prochiro]

RandyFL

As your basic figures are rough calculations, I will respond in in general terms. Running a compressor is much the same as running a generator. If a 5HP motor is needed for a generator, that is the minimum HP needed to pull the load at a working speed. If you use less HP, RPM and load torque will suffer and may even stall. Keep in mind that when your air conditioner is running, your gas consumption goes way up. Just because a 5HP motor costs over 1000 dollars, you can not just downsize and make it work. When you drive your auto at faster speeds, you are giving your compressor the high end of required power, possibly over the 5HP level. You may remember what happened when we put an increased electric load on the generator which was powered by the Imperial, it stalled out. If you are looking for increased performance, you must increase the supply energy, not decrease it.

Dana

[RandyFL]

At All

Dana,
I used the 5Hp because it was given as a arbitrary number... If we take money out of the equation wouldn't a 10Hp motor or higher be better than the 5Hp or lower? I guess a call to the compressor manufacturers would be a safe bet using standard averages...

Your statement:
If you are looking for increased performance, you must increase the supply energy, not decrease it.

After talking to a contractor friend and at another time a electrician both stated that higher voltages makes things run better...Using your statement and theirs wouldn't running a DC motor at higher voltages produce a more efficient situation...

Lastly should I bring this conversation privately ( pm ) as I wouldn't want to upset the flow of asymmetrical conversations...

All the Best
RandyFL

[Ufopolitics]

Amperage, not Voltage...

At All

Dana,
I used the 5Hp because it was given as a arbitrary number... If we take money out of the equation wouldn't a 10Hp motor or higher be better than the 5Hp or lower? I guess a call to the compressor manufacturers would be a safe bet using standard averages...

Your statement:
If you are looking for increased performance, you must increase the supply energy, not decrease it.

After talking to a contractor friend and at another time a electrician both stated that higher voltages makes things run better...Using your statement and theirs wouldn't running a DC motor at higher voltages produce a more efficient situation...

Lastly should I bring this conversation privately ( pm ) as I wouldn't want to upset the flow of asymmetrical conversations...

All the Best
RandyFL

Hello Randy,

Leave this conversation here...for others to learn.

As Dana said, it all applies.

To run the AC Compressor it is NOT a matter of more Voltage...but MORE AMPS demand.

Just check any AC, House or Cars...whenever Compressor kicks in (start) you even notice lights dimming out for a sec.
Most of AC Compressors would pull anywhere between 80 to 150 Amps when starting the Motor or Engine that turns them.

As Dana said, in a car it is more Gas...higher idling RPM's automatically turns on actuators on the gas cables or electronics acceleration to go higher RPM's whenever you turn AC System On, or whenever AC starts the compressor On in the recycling.

Normally Compressors in Toyota's or any Japanese cars are from two main manufacturers...and mainly a Nippondenso which are great units that pull lower amps than a typical Delco or Motorcraft from GM or FORD...since their engines are smaller.

The Energy Required to run the AC bolts down to AMPS here...the 12 Volts in a Vehicle remains the same.

So, if you want to keep your car cool without Gas Engine on, just on electrical...you will need to spend quite some money to make that happen, and not talking about Motor expenses...but about extra Battery Supply/Converters/specific independent Compressor from the normal ICE attached to, etc,etc.

Do some research on how TESLA CARS resolves this issue out...a very compact motor, and an Ultra efficient AC Compressor Unit...PLUS another Battery Bank Supply independent from Power Train/Motor-Transmission Drives...just to run Auxiliary Circuits.

And by the way...NOT every Motor out there is convertible to Asymmetric...it has been displayed here before.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Zardox]

start up

The typical AC motor will have an inrush currant about 4 times the rated amp draw at start up (single phase). About 3 times the rated amp draw for 3 phase provided that the supply line is heavy enough to carry the load. If not the voltage will drop causing the amperage to spike exponentially higher.

[sampojo]

Source for used electric motors, Joseph Fazzio's ebay

Hello All

What size DC motor would be needed to run a Automobile Air Conditioner...?
I have a 2002 Toyota 1.8L ICE...
I Googled the question and got a relative answer of about 5 Hp ( to me that seems like over kill )
Baldor's 5 DC hp is over 1000.00
Leeson's is around 500.00
These are on the shelf sysmetrical motors ( that could be assymetrically wound of course ) but just figuring out parameters for now...
What I've noticed is: In Florida ( naturally hot summer weather of course ) it takes about 10 -15 minutes for the ac to start cooling the car off,whenst the car sits in the sun. But if I drive alittle faster the ac cools the car off much faster... I don't have a Tach in the Toyota but assuming 50 miles is around 3k - 5k rpm s
Here's the bottom line question...
Wouldn't a 2 Hp dc motor running at 3000 rpm be sufficient to run a ICE ac compressor?

Any and all comments welcome
All the best

RandyFL

Hey Randy, You can go used pretty affordably, but more work than Ufo's Imperial. here is my own private gold mine of used electric motors, Joseph Fazio's Contractor Supply, NJ. I got one of those $1000 2-stator baldors for $29, had a bad bearing. So cool. They have gone on ebay now (mrmisc) I bought the last one they had recently, fully functional for $80. Maybe priced more competitively now. So I have 4 now and intend to maybe build a double rotor model, so I'm stocked up now for dual stators. Hoping the dual stator can almost as well as the quad-style (Imperial). I have my eye on a couple old time quads they have there just in case. I have been out of commission for a couple months now, new hip, and long term income stream kaput. So still hoping I don't get forced into early retirement. But we may be very close to breaking things open here thanks to Ufo. (God Bless you, Man!)

FWIW

[RandyFL]

DC Motors...

At All

Hello UfO...
Hope everything is working out well for you. And your new projects are everything you hoped for.
I was thinking of turning my 2002 Toyota ICE into a all electric...
the motor is burning oil and the lifters are very noisy and I am having to
replace spark plugs every 3 to 4 weeks...
Looking into the Warp 9 electric motor to replace the ICE. I posed the question about the AC
compressor because Florida is too hot. And it is well worth the added expense in my humble opinion.
Toyota and hybrids have the Air Conditioner connected to the battery(s) and Honda has the ac connected to
the ICE ( back up power supply ) so in Honda's case you turn off the ICE and you can say good bye to
the cool feeling of creature conforts...
I am sure you have looked into the warp 9's and 11 for building electric race track quality EVs...
I was Lucky enough to grow up in a time when the back yard mechanic was King of the block... we would
tear apart engines and just replace the Alts,carbs and starters and put Holleys or modify accordingly...
Hp meant He who got out of starting box with the most won...
The dealers that sell the warp 9 state that its about 1900.00 and shipping around 200.00 ish...
But they or the maufacturer of the warp 9 never talk about Hp or its equivalent.
Baldor does and is quite happy to include the cost of the damn things :-)
My little 1.8L produces about 100 hp and is light enough to beat a mu(stang) at the gitgo but the
stangs will eventually win the race... which is probably the reason my 1.8L needs to be replaced.
Speaking on just Hp to Hp a Baldor 100 Hp motor ( 50K ) would eat up everything on the west coast of FL.
and everything on the east coast of FL and most of mainland USA and I'm not talking about Logistics = battery packs,
controls, PWM and etc.
And I'm sure you have seen the film ( youtube ) of the guy who strapped a warp 9 to a go cart...
Getting back to reality I'm waiting for the (toy)ota to give out...my wife gives up the 2000 V6 Mustang to me
and the new car will be hers...the toyota would be the new donor car project which the warp 9 will fit perfectly
around 250 lbs ish...
Getting back to the ac motor part...
Since you are the " main man " here and you bring experience and know how and generosity ( many thanx ).
And it looks like 5 Hp is the starting number for the ac compressor.
My basic question is... which motor and what size would you fit to do the job required of powering the ac compressor...?
Would you stay 5 or would you go higher... would it be an imperial or would you go with a baldor or something else...
Would you buy a symmetrical with the intent of rewiring it later ( which I am considering )...

All the Best
RandyFL

ps I now have 5 of the RS and 5 of the ones Kogs suggested...but at this time I am trying to finish a P. Kelly project

addendum:
The stang has a tach. and while running the stang with ac on and 40 mph the tach was at 1500 rpm range and cooled the cab effiently.
Which is well with in the range of 5Hp motors