My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[GlenWV]

P66 Motor Wind

Greetings all:

I have started winding my armature for the P66 motor.

First crack out of the box, I wound four strands then noticed the commutator had twice the number of segments as the rotor has slots. That means skipping one segment between winds instead of starting the wind 'next to' the one just completed.

Had to fix that.

Then, I looked at Mr. UFOPolitics' drawing and recommendations again....

Oooopppsss, I was winding only on one side. So, stopped that and started on the opposite side to keep things balanced.

Its coming along nicely now.

Each coil gets 7 turns of #18 gauge wire. Each group consists of 6 coils for a total of 42 turns of wire. This may be one turn too many, but it is easier to make the coils shorter than longer......

Pics are here: P66 Motor Wind Photos by GlenWV | Photobucket

Comments and suggestions are welcome.

GlenWV

[BroMikey]

Motor (Nice)

Greetings all:

I have started winding my armature for the P66 motor.

First crack out of the box, I wound four strands then noticed the commutator had twice the number of segments as the rotor has slots. That means skipping one segment between winds instead of starting the wind 'next to' the one just completed.

Had to fix that.

Then, I looked at Mr. UFOPolitics' drawing and recommendations again....

Oooopppsss, I was winding only on one side. So, stopped that and started on the opposite side to keep things balanced.

Its coming along nicely now.

Each coil gets 7 turns of #18 gauge wire. Each group consists of 6 coils for a total of 42 turns of wire. This may be one turn too many, but it is easier to make the coils shorter than longer......

Pics are here: P66 Motor Wind Photos by GlenWV | Photobucket

Comments and suggestions are welcome.

GlenWV

Hi Glen

That is a really new motor. What are you planning to do with it so I can understand the experiment please. Re-wind motor low torque and charging a battery?????

Re-wind motor to run free but runs slow?

This is multiple choice thinking as I wonder what's up with each experimenters viewpoint.

Re-wind motor to use as generator?

Re-wind motor to spike a battery for free while the motor runs 50-90 power level?

Do you have batteries to charge in your coming experiment?

We have a nearby rewind shop (just a few miles) and these guys will rewind a motor for me anyway I want them to. They gave me some 11awg magnet wire for a science project I did.

It would be nice to understand each persons experimental goal as I watch from the side lines.

Thanks Glen for everything.

Mike

[Matthew Jones]

It seems that Mathew jones has had the desired effect here, and started a ball rolling ( AGAIN ).

Please Guys don't let it knock over too many skittles.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

Thanks for noticing.

[Ufopolitics]

P66 Update from Glen WV

Greetings all:

I have started winding my armature for the P66 motor.

First crack out of the box, I wound four strands then noticed the commutator had twice the number of segments as the rotor has slots. That means skipping one segment between winds instead of starting the wind 'next to' the one just completed.

Had to fix that.

Hello Glen,

I was waiting for your update!...it is great to hear again from you

Yes, your Motor is a 33 Poles/ 66 Commutator Elements, same as P56 is a 28 Poles/56 Comm Elements.

You DON'T jump each one of the Elements...leaving one not connected!...but, instead, you JOIN each Two Elements and attach Two to each Group wire, upper and bottom...that way we have a continuous contact On at all times.

Take a look at this Video...will give you many hints on the start.
I use a 16 gauge piece of "U" wire to make that fastening and to join each two elements together.

[IMG][/IMG]

It is VERY IMPORTANT that you assign the correct Two Commutator Elements for each Group!!.

For example, and as a MAIN GUIDE, look at Group 1 above on Left...and notice the corresponding Two Commutator Elements that are in RED(Red for positive Input Upper, as connecting shaft is pointing towards you, out of screen)...So, note that those Two Elements are EXACTLY at the end of Coil #6 LAST POLE...of Group 1

Now looking at your Stators positioning and Rotor, again, looking at Group 1 and Comm Elements in Red:

[IMG][/IMG]

Note Brush "M1" is JUST STARTING to make contact with the two elements that belong to G1...Then look at N1 and S1 Stators positioning related to G1...That is exactly when G1 should start getting fired/energized, according to Rotation R....And G2-which is ahead of G1- is "leaving contact" with Brush M1.

Then, I looked at Mr. UFOPolitics' drawing and recommendations again....

Oooopppsss, I was winding only on one side. So, stopped that and started on the opposite side to keep things balanced.

Its coming along nicely now.

Each coil gets 7 turns of #18 gauge wire. Each group consists of 6 coils for a total of 42 turns of wire. This may be one turn too many, but it is easier to make the coils shorter than longer......

Pics are here: P66 Motor Wind Photos by GlenWV | Photobucket

Comments and suggestions are welcome.

GlenWV

Seven (7) turns per each coil is great!...Just make sure you will have enough room at each slot for other Group-Coils that will overlap/cross that slot.

You will be fine with just 5-6 turns per coil, just in case you need to reduce to lesser turns.


Thanks for sharing your work!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Glen

That is a really new motor. What are you planning to do with it so I can understand the experiment please. Re-wind motor low torque and charging a battery?????

Re-wind motor to run free but runs slow?

Hello BroMikey,

What may you think it will run "slower"..?

I will try to answer your questions, if you allow me to.

This is multiple choice thinking as I wonder what's up with each experimenters viewpoint.

Ok, Glen has an Imperial Electric Motor, 33 poles, 66 commutator Elements, so called "P66 BODY".
I draw for him a method to convert it to Asymmetrical Wind based on the new concept of All North Rotor Groups configuration (Homo-polar Machines). Same concept I have been showing/developing on smaller replicas in my latest videos (all north five poles).
This means Rotor Coils always would be projecting outwards a North Pole (toward Stators) (North Pole is a guidance, but it could be "All South" as well)

Coils-Groups will orderly be Turned On then Off North during Motor Action. This way flux will travel -for all- in the same direction at all times. And, as they are overlapped with a common core, the transfer "from to" will not suffer much deviation in the "down hill curve" as it would be "inherited" from Group to next Group orderly.

Look at the Diagrams (I posted before) for Glen to wind His Machine below...

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Re-wind motor to use as generator?

Re-wind motor to spike a battery for free while the motor runs 50-90 power level?

This Machines do a "50/50" Motor Generator...

[IMG][/IMG]

In that Diagram, Glen's Machine would be the bottom right "N-N Config on Four Stators"..

The Blue semi-circumferences would be Motor stage, while the Green would be Generator Stage, collected by the Output Brushes at that end.

Do you have batteries to charge in your coming experiment?

I am pretty sure He will...

We have a nearby rewind shop (just a few miles) and these guys will rewind a motor for me anyway I want them to. They gave me some 11awg magnet wire for a science project I did.

Thanks Glen for everything.

Mike

It would be great if you decide to go for one of this powerful machines Mikey!

Imperial has a "UFO Kit" for a P56, available for a very low price of $276.00 USD (Thanks to Machine Alive great work negotiating with Imperial Electric)...it contains all you need to assemble one unit...normally an Imperial P56 Symmetrical costs $698.00 USD...

It would be nice to understand each persons experimental goal as I watch from the side lines.

We all have same goals here...different machines...different windings...same results, which is to obtain a greater output while having a low amp draw motor that delivers high torque and high speed as mechanical attributes, all in one compact machine...

Glen Machine is unique, very powerful embodiment, and a newer technology in the windings that would run even smoother and with better output results than before we had here with the N-S Types.


Regards Mikey


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Please Refresh Page...

@Glen,

Please, refresh page, as I have done some Editing on previous post. related to Comm Elements position, as this is VERY Important!...before you keep going.


Thank You


Ufopolitics

[iankoglin]

Hello there Kogs!


Nice Testing Friend!


That Motor never imagined to go up to those speeds Uh?...

I like your steady amps draw, no matter how much voltage you increase at source.

One thing that We concluded from this testing...is that C1 & C2 (Series connected related to Output Coils) take most of the Higher Voltage charges, and we could see there over 200 V on each bank.

[IMG][/IMG]

Now, a second test, eliminating the Parallel connected C3 & C4 Banks...and just adding them in Parallel to the existing C1 & C2 Series connected between Output Coils,this connection would give Us another view of results Kogs.

Also splitting the Batteries into Two Side Banks to the Input side of Coils (L1, L3), and here realize that when we do this we are adding the Coils resistance in the circuit...so, easily you could add first 12V + 12V (one battery at each side), then 24V + 24V Banks...

Meters should go one on each side bank (Caps and Batteries) connected parallel to read Voltages, so Four Meters total, two for batteries, two for Caps.

Also, you could add a second Amp meter to read Caps Output current as well as Batteries Input...

EDIT 2: The way to do this Test is first turn ON S1, and read RPM's Motor reaches with just Batteries, while checking other parameters (V&A)...Then turn ON S2, and notice how RPM's drops...but slowly increasing, and the point here is to allow system to recover to previous Battery running RPM's and watch Caps V.

EDIT 3: We could also check by feeding Machine both ways (Batteries), (Parallel like Kogs have on Video and Series, like on this Diagram) while keeping Caps in Series to Coils/ Parallel between them (as Diagram above)...and watching which way is better feed for faster charging cap banks/faster reaching running RPM's.

Great work Kogs!!


Kind Regards


Ufopolitics

EDIT 1: We all could do this Test, even using N-S Systems...then get to see the differences between them.

I will be doing it with my N-S Imperial as well, since the UFO Kit I ordered for All North, is kind of behind because some delay with Commutators I believe, as Dyann was not sure...

@Kogs: Be careful IF using your new "Super Babies"...realize that when paralleling the Voltage will remain as one Cap...so it would be 2.7 V and you could damage them by over charging...the way to do this, is to make "Cells" in series til reaching operating voltages and then adding each Cell in Parallel between them.

G'day UFO
Please where do you want me to place the amp meters

https://www.dropbox.com/home/Motor%20Testing%20DRawings

I am setting up so as to do the test But am unsure where you want the Amp meters to be
I really appreciate all you are doing here

Kindest regards

[BroMikey]

Good Answers UFO

Hello BroMikey,

What may you think it will run "slower"..?

I will try to answer your questions, if you allow me to.



Ok, Glen has an Imperial Electric Motor, 33 poles, 66 commutator Elements, so called "P66 BODY".
I draw for him a method to convert it to Asymmetrical Wind based on the new concept of All North Rotor Groups configuration (Homo-polar Machines). Same concept I have been showing/developing on smaller replicas in my latest videos (all north five poles).
This means Rotor Coils always would be projecting outwards a North Pole (toward Stators) (North Pole is a guidance, but it could be "All South" as well)

Coils-Groups will orderly be Turned On then Off North during Motor Action. This way flux will travel -for all- in the same direction at all times. And, as they are overlapped with a common core, the transfer "from to" will not suffer much deviation in the "down hill curve" as it would be "inherited" from Group to next Group orderly.

Look at the Diagrams (I posted before) for Glen to wind His Machine below...

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]



This Machines do a "50/50" Motor Generator...

[IMG][/IMG]

In that Diagram, Glen's Machine would be the bottom right "N-N Config on Four Stators"..

The Blue semi-circumferences would be Motor stage, while the Green would be Generator Stage, collected by the Output Brushes at that end.



I am pretty sure He will...



It would be great if you decide to go for one of this powerful machines Mikey!

Imperial has a "UFO Kit" for a P56, available for a very low price of $276.00 USD (Thanks to Machine Alive great work negotiating with Imperial Electric)...it contains all you need to assemble one unit...normally an Imperial P56 Symmetrical costs $698.00 USD...



We all have same goals here...different machines...different windings...same results, which is to obtain a greater output while having a low amp draw motor that delivers high torque and high speed as mechanical attributes, all in one compact machine...

Glen Machine is unique, very powerful embodiment, and a newer technology in the windings that would run even smoother and with better output results than before we had here with the N-S Types.


Regards Mikey


Ufopolitics

Thanks UFO for answering those questions I asked. Not everyone can sum all of this up in a nut shell like you can.

I am learning from you now and will be here to make sure you are not mistreated

You know how to talk to folks.

Mike

[Cornboy 555]

Good on You, BroMikey.
Regards Cornboy.

[Ufopolitics]

G'day UFO
Please where do you want me to place the amp meters

https://www.dropbox.com/home/Motor%20Testing%20DRawings

I am setting up so as to do the test But am unsure where you want the Amp meters to be
I really appreciate all you are doing here

Kindest regards

Good Day Kogs!


Ok, First, thanks Kogs for doing all this Tests!, it would be of great help to all of Us in order to understand all this Tech better...as also, since you are doing tests with N-S Machines, whenever someone of Us make same tests with all North, We could then see/stablish the differences...

below is the Diagram:

[IMG][/IMG]

Let's analyze this circuit in detail...

First than all, We must realize that all Inductors shown within Machine (L1, L2, L3 & L4) are JUST MOMENTARY GATES, since we understand they are constantly changing/swapping because of revolving at a very fast ratio...that results into PULSES transmitted to the outer components connected to them.

Based on that fact, I have set Two Amp Meters at Battery Banks Positive conductors, A1 and A2.

A1 and A2 will reflect similar, but never identical readings (depending on the meter automatic response, speed capturing capability and precision to Milli amps or after the dot positions)

However, Total Amp Value (Draw) at Input will be Calculated based on the AVERAGE between both Meters.

V1 and V2 will measure each Battery Banks separately from the revolving Inductors/Coils. And the Total Voltage at the SERIES INPUT CIRCUIT would be V1 + V2.

Since We have a "Mirror" of Identical (Actually the Same, repeated) Inductor-Coils at Output, swapping at a common/same speed/time, plus we have all exterior components (Caps) positioned/connected identically as Input...then, L2 and L4 readings would be done EXACTLY the same way as Input Circuit Meters Setup (L1 & L3).

Or...

A3 and A4 will reflect similar, but never identical readings ...and the Total Amp Value (Draw) at Output will be Calculated also based on the AVERAGE between both Meters.

And...

V3 and V4 will measure each Capacitor Banks separately from the revolving Inductors/Coils. And the Total Voltage at this SERIES OUTPUT CIRCUIT would be V3 + V4.

Therefore, on this WHOLE Circuit, We will consider the Same Revolving Inductors/Coils (or the whole Machine...) as the LOAD for both, Input-Output circuits.

If We had all Inductors (L1, L2, L3 and L4) Stationary, (like soldered in a circuit board) ...Then, We could easily calculate/verify the parameters by simple Ohms Law...However, since Inductors are revolving/pulsing/swapping through Time, AND within a Magnetic Field...then we would need to Include Time/Speed/Acceleration in our Equations as well.

THE TESTS:

All Switches (S1 & S2) are OFF...Caps were discharged and, IF Supercaps are instead of typical Electrolytic, make sure to leave at least a 200 to 300 mV charge...not to create a radical short circuit.

1- Measure Batteries Voltages while S1 is OFF.
2- Turn ON S1, while S2 is OFF and Read:
2a-Amperage on Both Meters.
2b-Voltage Drop at V1 & V2
2c-Max RPM's reached after a few minutes of running time (observing if there is an increase through time).

After We have reached a "pretty steady" speed...

3-We turn ON S2 (And keep reading Parameters above), PLUS the Meters attached to Output Circuit.

RPM's normally will drop very low when we turn S2 ON.
V1 & V2 will also drop to lower values.
A1 & A2 will increase.

Now, We need to let System run until catching up to previous/original running speed values as seen on 2c...

Then read all Parameters again when this occur.


This testing will give Us all an idea of the Operation of this whole set up.


Kind Regards Kogs, and again, thanks for doing all this work for Us but, mainly, thanks for believing/trusting in my work all this time!



Regards to All



Ufopolitics


EDIT 1: I have set Two Amp Meter per Input-Out Circuits for more accurate readings...HOWEVER, We ONLY need just One Amp Meter per each Circuit.
I believe it is interesting to observe how the DC Amp Values fluctuate from one side bank reading to the other...as speed changes a few revolutions.

On another note, I forgot to ask You Kogs...Do You have Two pretty similar (meaning around same amp/h) 6V Batteries?...That way you could start testing system with 6+6 Volts in the first run...

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks UFO for answering those questions I asked. Not everyone can sum all of this up in a nut shell like you can.

I am learning from you now and will be here to make sure you are not mistreated

You know how to talk to folks.

Mike

You are welcome and that is just Great Mike!

Welcome on board!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Midaztouch]

Hi Everyone,

I've had some questions about the UFO kits. Below are the specs and pics from the company's motor homepage.
Permanent Magnet Motor - 56 Frame

http://www.imperialelectric.com/pdfs/imperial_pmm.pdf

It will weigh over 40lbs and over 7500 RPMs when we are finished with it. Additionally you must buy high-performance bearings(front & rear), 3kg - 5kg of 18agw, Nomex paper for the slots and hedges to keep the wires in place.

For the EV users, basically it will give you the performance of a 350cc- 500cc 4 stroke motorcycle engine, give or take! It's perfect for any old motorcycle you have laying around. Drive it until the wheels fall off!

For generator people. I suggest you buy 2 kits, all additional parts and solar panels. UFO and other Team members will sort you out later for optimizing the set up.

Dana made a suggestion for NEW brand-name super capacitors on eBay. Looks like a great value. Get them while they are hot! 68 Ultracapacitor Tecate Powerburst 400F 2 7V TPLS 400 Super Capacitor 100KJ | eBay

I ordered two commutators from Imperial three months ago and they're still on back order. Remember this is the busy season for Imperial. When UFO gets his new kit, class will start! I got mine. I suggest that you order your UFO kits NOW!

The UFO KIT Part# is 0524021
The price is still $276.15 USD plus shipping.
Dyann's direct line 1-440-349-4083-ext#117
Email: derosad@imperialelectric.com

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[GlenWV]

P66 Update

Greetings all:

I 'get it' when it comes to connecting the adjacent node on the commutator. That was being done when I noticed multiple segments were reading very low ohms. (dead short!)

When the machine shop guy installed the commutators, he trued them up. In doing so, some of the commutator segments were shorted by small fragments of copper in the slots between segments. On a few of the segments, near where the wires go into the slots, the copper was actually drawn across the void to the next segment.

Took a bit, but I fixed that last night.

I removed the windings, as 7 turns looked to be a bit much as the thing progressed.... (Mr. UFOPolitics said as much!) So, I'll start over using 5 turns per coil. (My point in starting with 7 turns was to stuff as much wire into the thing as it would hold.)

Winding coils is an art, so a little more practice will end up giving me a better product in the end.

glen

@Mikey: Mike, I want this motor running at constant speed and will use it to spin a generator. The idea is to grab some power from the generator, rectify it, and use it to power the motor. Loop-di-doooo (with switching)

[Ufopolitics]

Hello UFO

I have had these videos on my mind and cant get them out. I have a question about the size of supercaps that might work in a higher voltage setup. From what you have seen so far, do you think that the larger, say 300F will be necessary or would maybe a smaller one like 100F do as well. I know that if six caps in series the farads will go thru the floor. Basically, what would you use for a 12 volt setup with extra buffer for the four banks. Could that recommendation be scaled up to say 48 volts for each bank say for the Imperial. Also serial or parallel might be better on each side. With serial, less caps would be needed.????? I have so much trouble when it comes to this expense without being sure what is the best size and may be useful when scaling up also.

Dana

Hello Dana,

I am sorry for not responding your post above in time...because of the interruption here...
I know... ...I know I should not let it "grow"...sorry!

So, let's go back to your interesting post above...

In reality, We will have to do several tests before reaching specific Farads Capacitance values to work with Higher Voltages set up like Imperial.
Only Testing and more Testing would give Us the right answer.

The same way Capacitance reduces when Banks are connected in SERIES...We know the OPPOSITE occurs when We connect Banks in PARALLEL, meaning We ADD Capacitance values per CELL PACKS.

So, here, We could use any combinations of FARADS to add in each Parallel Cell Pack (All same values, of course), without adding Voltage... to be added in SERIES to the other identical Cell Packs...to create our desired Voltage Module.

For example, let's say we will run our System with 24V TOTAL SERIES CONNECTED SPLIT SIDE BATTERY BANKS TO INDUCTORS/COILS INPUT (Our Supply, One 12V Battery on each side bank).

So, on the Supercap Bank Module we need to use Five (5) Supercaps CELL PACKS of 2.7V each that connected in SERIES will give Us exactly 13.5 Volts (We ALWAYS MUST GO ABOVE BATT VALUES in the Supercaps Storage Banks to play on the safe zone)

Now on each Cell Pack we add capacitance by adding more parallel caps/cells without changing the voltage...and that will increase the total Farads at each Module Total Output end.

But the main point here is the Time it will take for the Machine to reach Operating RPM's and Torque versus Time Curve after Caps are charged in PARALLEL. At this stage we have BOTH BANKS running (Batt & Caps), but Batteries will start to reduce -considerably- the disbursed power.

This Time it takes for Machine to Fill Up Cap Banks is where we have to play with...because it is the Main "Network" between Generating Power and Receiving/Storing Energy.

For Example, based on the Test with the RS Five Pole and the 310F X 2 on each bank :

[IMG][/IMG]

I started to charge both Banks in Parallel at 10:38...and the Operating RPM's with Batteries ONLY and less than 3V (1.4V +1.4V=2.8V) was 7000 RPM's.

Based on this Graph, it took Motor-Generator around Seven(7) Minutes to reach that speed (from 10:38 to 17:30) realizing Caps started from almost EMPTY with around 200-300 Milli Volts.

Now, in order to reduce Charging Time here we have two options to play with:

1- Reduce the Capacitance.

or...

2- Increase the Generating Capacity.

To reduce Capacitance we could just reduce the number of Caps to just One on each side bank and re-test...or, replace Caps by 150 F Cells. Finally either one of this TWO TESTS should reduce the charging time to at least HALF.

Amplifying the Generating Capacity would end up replacing machine by a bigger pole number...and this would change the whole set up.

I rewound that motor on that last video to 12 Turns per Coil (24T in Pair), instead of 8 like on previous videos...and there is absolutely no more room to go any higher...so only option to increase generation here is to replace motor.

If I have to replace Motor...then I rather go to Quad Stators and bigger pole Machines...and start there, where we have much more room to play with.

Besides room, the MAIN and MORE IMPORTANT PART...That in Four Stator Machines We will have INDEPENDENT CIRCUITS from Battery Banks and Capacitive Storage Banks.

And that is exactly what I am working on now.

Related to the Test on Video with Serial Connection of Cap Banks...

I did the Serial Switching just to demonstrate Total Generated Voltage reached per cell,(more accurate reading than Parallel) as to show the speed Machine developed that way, verifying the power "was there"...

I know Capacitance will reduce in series.
Then I must know running Time will also reduce considerably...plus the decaying speed curve will drop faster.

Our first goal with this set up is to BALANCE as accurate as possible the Generation (Output) and the Alternate Storage Cap Banks(Input) to minimal times as possible from a CRITICAL START UP of ALMOST EMPTY CAPS...

After we have that RELATION established then we can move on...

What follows?

After We minimize this Time to very short intervals...reaching operating speed and torque...then we incorporate our beautiful, state of the art... electronic controllers...

By minimizing the Time to charge Cap Banks with the right Balanced Output (Machine Generation) to Input (Storage Capacitance Banks) Connection, will reach a point where a few pulses from Battery Banks-Controllers will avoid Decay, maintaining the Operating Speed and Torque mostly from Capacitive Banks, which will take over majority of percentage of the Energy delivered to the Motor Driving.

On the little RS Motor we saw exactly that the more the Caps were charged and running speed reached or getting closer to, the Battery consumption dropped... and that was not using electronics to pulse-regulate Input to the System... Plus a "mixed" Input-Output System...so, am sure in independent circuits "The Effect" will develop even better, due to cleaner "Network Traffic Flows".


Kind Regards Dana..We will get there...


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Cleaning Commutators...

Greetings all:

I 'get it' when it comes to connecting the adjacent node on the commutator. That was being done when I noticed multiple segments were reading very low ohms. (dead short!)

When the machine shop guy installed the commutators, he trued them up. In doing so, some of the commutator segments were shorted by small fragments of copper in the slots between segments. On a few of the segments, near where the wires go into the slots, the copper was actually drawn across the void to the next segment.

Took a bit, but I fixed that last night.

I removed the windings, as 7 turns looked to be a bit much as the thing progressed.... (Mr. UFOPolitics said as much!) So, I'll start over using 5 turns per coil. (My point in starting with 7 turns was to stuff as much wire into the thing as it would hold.)

Winding coils is an art, so a little more practice will end up giving me a better product in the end.

glen

@Mikey: Mike, I want this motor running at constant speed and will use it to spin a generator. The idea is to grab some power from the generator, rectify it, and use it to power the motor. Loop-di-doooo (with switching)

Hello Glen,

Yeah, I figured 7 turns were too many...Five would be fine...

Related to Commutator metal debris cleaning...If you have access to an air compressor and a hand regulated blower ...going into each of the segments gaps would be the best way...

Make sure to wear Eye Goggles and a Dust Mask.

Regards


Ufopolitics