My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

[B]UFO,

I've been helping and learning here, DAILY, for over 2yrs now. Through all of the ups and downs! Everything I know about DC motors, has come from the brilliant minds on energetic forum but mostly from our group! I've gotten to the point were I can look at an Asymmetric Motor design and know how to get the maximum performance out of it!

Midaz,

You have been here for two years, reading and going over mostly the Theoretical side...but not replicating from small models I have shown and taught here from the very beginning of this thread, this way you are getting only "half of the picture"...not the practice and experience that Real Builds deliver over time.

This is a simple DC Motor! I think it's fantastic! I know Asymetric Motors from all of the tests, successes and failures!.... Below are simple facts, that everyone here can except as facts with disputes. It's the difference between an average high schooler jumping -vs- an Olympic gold-medalist jumping.

I am not going to say here the "possible" wrong side of your idea...like I wrote before, we never know, we can never be sure something would "definitively" work or not work...ONLY building it, bringing alive from a paper theory or an idea, into a real built model demonstration.

The only thing I see wrong here is your attitude demonstrated in a couple of last posts.

It was not needed to minimize all the Real work displayed here for two years, in order to make prevail your new idea as the only winner...when you do not even have a $3.99 motor built based on that assumption.

This is not a Coca Cola versus Pepsi Cola marketing competition to reach more sales. This is an Open Source Science and Engineering Thread, not looking to make money out of it.

You starting this thread was and is a Great Honor for Nikola Tesla and HIS work!

Respectfully
Richard

Yeah, unfortunately Tesla had some "Ex-Assistants" who tried to steal his ideas (Marconi) or others who tried to "shine" on their own poor shimmering light, while trying to express what the Master did was full of mistakes (Edison)...both, the wrong attitudes.

There is a saying..."Ignorance is daring".

However, I wish you the best of luck in your new thread.

This would be my last post here dedicated to this issue.




Ufopolitics

[prochiro]

Sam


I see that you are still having problems in getting the winding to fit and calculating wire size that will fit and get the correct ohms. Earlier on in this thread, I showed how to calculate for wire but do not have the time to find it so I will give you a brief list of things to do before you start to wind.

1. 1. Calculate the exact sq. inch or mm you have to wind in the channel. To get this correct you may have to make a drawing and divide it into several triangles and rectangles. A caliper is what to use for measuring, not a ruler.

Decide what ohm value you are going to end up with. Remember that if using multiple strand that you will need a special calculator to get close to the correct ohms, as it changes non lineally by the number of wires twisted.


Decide what ohm value you are going to end up with. Remember that if using multiple strand that you will need a special calculator to get close to the correct ohms, as it changes non lineally by the number of wires twisted.
Calculate the Sq. inch or mm of a wire you may use by using the diameter of the wire as the height and width.


Calculate the number of wires that will fit thru each slot. (divide Sq. inch of groove by Sq. inch of the wire.)
Calculate using these things, that when fully wound, if you will end up with the correct number of winds and correct ohms.


If not, change wire size or winds and if using multiple wire numbers of wires in each multi wire. It is not easy but will get you the motor you want first time and will fit. Also keep in mind that lentz wire will not carry as much amps as larger wire.


Prochiro

[Ufopolitics]

Please, don't get too high on your horse...Midaz

My question is, Why would you want a High RPM motor without the torque under mechanical load

Group winds: High RPMs & lowest torque

Pair winds: High RPMs said & medium torque

Singular winds: Lower RPMs & highest torque

........

TORQUE: Singular winds -VS- Pair winds


16 turns each; magnet strength @ 18agw

Single coil= 16 turns
Pair coil= Two coils with 8 turns each

The SINGULAR coil's magnetic strength is a lot stronger than the PAIR coils combined. I think it was around 35% stronger!
*I lost the magnetic torque calulator page but search for yourself and do the math


North Coils in the motor
Parameters: stator's length covers 5 poles = coil covers 5 poles.... timing of coil's bisector and stator's bisector = 5° Past the stators bisector

Motor: N stator length is 5 poles + free space is 2 poles + S stator length is 5 poles

Singular coil has 16 turns of 18agw @ 5° past the bisector of the North stator... 100% Repulsion force

Pair coils has two coils. The beginning pair coil has 8 turns of

Midaz, Midaz...

Please, think MORE before you keep writing, cause you are expressing a lot of "things" that are DEAD WRONG and pure NON SENSE guy!!

Group winds: High RPMs & lowest torque

Pair winds: High RPMs said & medium torque

What do you mean??!!

I have shown for over 2 years in a row...all the freaking motors have three or four times the torque as OEM's?
EVEN in the N-S PAIRS !

Have you done any so far of the ALL NORTH GROUPS OR PAIRS? even your imperial?...I know the answer...NOPE

So,I helped you with your idea of SINGLE COILS taking it into CAD, but NOW you are minimizing the properties of all asymmetric motors I have shown so far, in order to make prevail your single coil design above the line of everything written and shown here...

But the WORST part is...that it is just a THEORY, nothing else.

You are ASSUMING TOO MUCH Friend!

And with JUST A THEORY now you want for everyone who owns an Imperial to start your wind and forget about the rest.

Do Your Thing man, wind your Imperial with single coils, for God sake do it!...then come back with PROOF and show everyone here ALL those advantages you are claiming based on only smoke,ideas SO FAR...are REAL...


IT IS THE ONLY WAY TO GET RESPECT.


and you know AM A BUILDER...NOT MUCH OF A THEORIZER....like most of the Guys Replicating here are also builders, not Thinkers.

BY ALL MEANS I wish that it works better than any motor ever shown on Human History...but remember, such Extreme Claims REQUIRE EXTREME PROOF

And that Proof MUST COME ONLY from the "Theorizer"...No One else knows better than you, Trust me, I know what am saying.

And please, let anyone who wants to post related stuff here, to go ahead and do it...I am in charge to say who's Comments are or are NOT welcome here.

@Raphael: Please, keep posting that related stuff, is great!


I am TOO BUSY at the present time to do this RS Motor based on your suggestion...but am sure MANY here could do it in a fraction of a minute.


Take care everyone


Ufopolitics

[Raphael37]

Selah,

This is Asymmetric Motors thread. You have come here many time with your stuff. And I've read some of it... It's best if you keep your work on your own thread. Please be respectful and delete your last post. I will delete this post soon.

Good luck with your research

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj4rV0AoI-Q

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

you obviously do not read my stuff
I probably know more about 'asymmetry' than you do.

too bad wise guys like you do not want to learn from the PROVEN design of an asymmetrical motor that can turn a disc 4000 times its own size?

yes and this motor actually works unlike the asymmetrical designs that are still being designed on this thread?
why is that sir?
why are folks like you unwilling to learn?
I offered you a model for an asymmetrical motor that another researcher in another field suggests could be the model of the earth ... bio-mimicry suggests why not copy what powers the earth or the sun?

here is the deal I will make you, go ahead delete your comments, I will ignore you and you will ignore me.

sorry to have bothered you, my original offering was not nearly as offensive as your response....

keep it green

[sampojo]

Decision time on windinng multifilar quad 10 pole unipolar GM window motor

Per my last post I am doing a unipolar rotor (10 poles) for my quad stator motor body. 5 poles are wound and I am running a little behind methinks as far as totally filling the rotor with copper wire this go-round. I like to run on the + side of 1 ohms. I don't think my meters are that great at detecting 1 ohm, think they are +/- .3-.4 ohms~. I had used my alcatel wiring guide and calculations indicated bifilar 32ga, but that was coming in around 1.7ohm for my 18' of wire I am using. Not sure if the recycled Old-TV degausing wire I started using is actually 32ga, hard to get a good measurement with the mike. Going trifilar seemed perfect and the ohms were def. hovering around 1+. I used Ufo's Quad-Bent-Y 10 pole NS winding on the old rotor and 26ga, 16' filling it quite nicely. But it was .6-.7 ohm resistance, ran hot (130deg+) and was a candidate for burn-up. So I am trying to get away from that problem. I might have been able to go 20+' on a quad-filar 32ga. I probably need to go longer to compensate the lost resistance from adding an additional strand. But then going longer and thicker diameter might be the double whammy that won't fit. I dunno, am I compacting the wire after each coil much better now, confusing my past experience? Better pull out my spread sheet on this and rerun some more calcs with a better resistance value and thickness estimate....

Here are some pics, I'd like to get anyone's feedback.



Rotor is 50%, done, 5 poles. Don't look very filled up do they...

I want these motors to do some work for me, lotta test ideas.

UPDATE: takes about an hour to make the trifilar cable, wrap a pole, and compress windings. So like 10 hours time to wind this whole thing, so trying desparately not to undo things. However I may undo the last one, leaving 4 coils wound with 18" of trifilar, and balanced since winding alternate sides of rotor(2 and 2 then). I really seem to have underestimated how the litzed wires will lay. They fill every nook and cranny very efficiently apparently, and leave more room to add copper. So for a series of wires I think I will up to a quadfilar at about 22' and see how those look on the next few poles!!!

Been cogitating on this a while as I played auto-mechanic in the mundane world to keep things on track there. Looking at the pics I estimate the space is only 1/3 full and yet I am 50% wound, 5 poles done. Lotta space there. Looks like I got to bite the bullet and undo my windings. Using this site was helpful in its ft/ohm column: Wire Gauge: Nikola Tesla Page. Looking at 32ga, to get 1 ohm with quadfilar I gots to go to 24' (6'/ohm). Seems the multifilar is a lot more space efficient, spreading out to fill gaps while winding. So I am betting that the difference in performance could be quite notable, and I could be pleasantly surprised to fit 24' on this rotor. If it does not I will switch as necessary on the last winding to the trifilar 18' stuff... So multfilar windings may lay as flat (almost?) as the single gauge wire diameter when winding, would be my conclusion... I was assuming it would take the space equivalent to the total outside diameter of the equilateral triange on the trifilar, for instance. Going all-Tesla this weekend

[GChilders]

@Zardox

I have built many replications with the goldmine motor. I have built a total of 5 embodiments and in the neighbor hood of 8 rotors. Rewinding is not a problem but building good embodiments is difficult. I ended up with a lot of machining that I think is out of the reach of most hobby shoppers. I believe that the best results have been from those who reworked the metal bodies. The plastic bodies look impressive but all seemed to lack the power of the metal embodiments. I could be wrong and there were other factors such as timing etc. Taking them apart without destroying the parts that you want to keep is the biggest challenge. Anyway keep at it. You will see some very interesting effects this next two weeks. I am going to post videos of my latest findings. I have not posted much in the last six months because I have been very building with many projects. I have taken on several new challenges and some of them include working with software for designing circuits, fixing bugs in the Radiant Motor program that I developed. Testing the all north wind. Working on Tesla Switches, Working through other battery charging systems including the one by Imhotep and a whole host of other stuff on my plate. I like testing before I post mainly because I have a very difficult time explaining to others what I am seeing as a problem and solutions. I have come up with a number of solutions that I think will be of interest to many here.

Cheers

Garry

[Raphael37]

UFO & Team

I know the 5 pole motors are very small but... Is it possible to set the GEN BRUSHES near 120° from the input brushes? From the image below, the GEN brush would be on the left side at C3 & edge of P3. The gen coil would just start to leave the zero torque zone. 120° should give us some rotation assistance from the GEN brushes... Or 120° on the right side. The coils would sweep through the zero torque zone for best gen output. The will be slight magnetic drag either way you but 120° is is a good thing

[IMG][/IMG]



Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

have you tried this MODEL?



why do I suggest this model?

call me a copy-KAt theorist ...
https://at37.wordpress.com/2013/01/1...agnetic-field/

selah

[Zardox]

GChilders - Agree, The Goldmine motors are cheap but hard to work with. After the one I built imploded I have just been watching for someone to make a valid replication before investing on bigger stuff ( yes I'm bad ). To my suprise it has been a long time and am still waiting. I like the new winding proposal. I might have to break down.

[GChilders]

@ufo
I was looking at the new drawing of the wind that you and Midaz are proposing and this looks like you are winding it to be in repulsion mode, As in the R/S wind. Is this correct? It looks as if both coil 1 and coil 2 are receiving energy from the brushes with coil 1 bisector slightly off the bisector of the north stator and both being North poles in opposition to each other. But I noticed that you have reoriented your brushes and they are positioned differently than either of the R/S or all north embodiments. In the R/S embodiment the brushes are located in a line drawn across the separations between the N + S pole stators and in the all north embodiment the brushes are located in the position of the original embodiment. Here the brushes seem to be rotated cw about 15 degrees or so from the original embodiment. I have about 25 degrees of adjustment built in to both embodiments, these are actually goldmine 5 coil motors not R/S. I have stripped a number of motors recently in preparation for this project, I have been working on a number of other projects that I felt that I needed to get out of the way first.

My other question is how this affects the coil that the generator brushes are contacting on the opposite side of the rotor? I have noticed a significant increase in power in all of the winds when both of these coils are fed power in opposition to the polarity of the magnet. The best method is to test the theory and see how it works out. I recently broke one of the coils on my all north wind testing it to destruction in a test involving pulsing the cold electricity coil and using a 1000uf 120 volt capacitor to pump up the voltage from a 12 volt battery. I found that when I pulsed it leaving the duty cycle at about 20% the cap would pump up to almost 200 volts in a few seconds and then I had a switch that would allow the cap to empty the voltage into the all north motor as a load. Well this is obviously too much voltage and too much amperage for the design of this little motor but surprisingly it did not self destruct as I thought it would. In my mind I thought that it could not possibly handle the amperage and voltage that I was putting to it. It screamed in protest as the bushings handled the rpm load without getting too hot! Then it started running rough and I pulled it back apart. Expecting to see welded brushes and commutator I was quite surprised. No pitting no burning on either of the brushes or commutator. The roughness was from one of the wires breaking close to where it was connected to the commutator. I will rewind this with the original wind and continue with the other rewinds this week.

@ Midaz
Thank you for bringing up the conversation between ufo and myself. I have had this project on my mind since that conversation took place. I remember someone saying that organizing creative people is a bit like herding cats, they tend to have a mind of their own and are easily distracted into other pursuits. I have been examining a number of other projects and replicating them in pursuit of several applications other than the motors we are working on here and they have taken longer than I expected them to. I needed to work on the programming of the arduino and built several more monster drives for the Imperial motors that I received. And frankly I was a little burned out on working on the goldmine motors. They are inexpensive in cost but require a lot of skill to replicate. I am looking forward to getting into the replication of the Imperial as they seem like such high quality motors and, at first look, to be easier to modify the embodiments to our specifications. Well, I am going to close for now. I will post my results when I have finished with the new rewinds hopefully by the end of the week.

Cheers

Garry

[Ufopolitics]

Sampojo, UFO & Team

Look at the 5 pole image post #7288. When one asymmetric commutator segment is winded with a singular coil that wraps around 2 poles(*2poles coil is the same size as the magnet). There is a lot more space per slot to concentrate on the single coil's magnetic strength; thicker wire & more turns. The 5pole motors could be winded with overlapping independent singular coils... 2 poles per asymmetric comm segment/coil...

The single input coil's magnetic field in a small motor is allowed to travel through the motor to the opposing steel lanminations then directed to the opposing magnet. The single north coil uses, both the north and south magnets/stators simultaneously for torque & RPMs. The factory settings for input and output are perfectly set for max magnetic strength timing for the 5pole motors... Deflection of the coil's south end magnetic field against the steel laminations, on the 5pole, is the only place where everything could go wrong. Then we would have a lukewarm test results.

Magnificence of 3 is NOT 100% accurate. It's the Magnificence of 2 (Magnets/stators) & "SINGULAR" Coils!!! The North and South magnets/stators are in perfect Harmony with the independent singular coil... The Chapter should read, "The Magnificence of the 3pole Uni-polar Asymmetric Motor"

Examples below:
1.) Commutator Segment = 5
Singular North Coil = Wind is wrapped around 2poles(*same size as the magnet)
Singular North Coil = 5
Coils overlapping
Use the factory input settings

2.) 5pole 360°; motor brush input =1, + idle time =1.5, + gen brush output =1, + idle time =1.5... (1 + 1.5 + 1 +1.5) = 5
*Idle time keeps the motor cool... UFO said, "Ilde time lets the Radiant Energy in."

3.) 16 turns on a single coil -vs- 8 turns; coil1 +8 turns; coil2 = 16 turns total. The single coils magnetic strength is stronger than the two coils combined. *Added bonus is that the magnetic vortex of the single coil is clear and flows freely.

From the images of 2 stators(5 pole and up) & 4 stators. Do the north pairs & north group windings HINDER the full magnetic potential/torque performance of Asymmetric Unipolar Machines?... For the 2 stator/magnet motors, the only way to find out is wind the 5pole with Independent Singular Unipolar coils.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

#Wish I had access to test equipment & CAD software

Hello my friend Midaz, Hello to All,


Ok,Midaz, after we exchange some mails, I think I've got your idea and points.

This concept will work, no doubt about that, and I believe you are right about concentrating the magnetic field within a single coil will 'compact' (let me say it this way) the strength in lesser poles and will not split coils in two. This splitting deviates the bisector angle,or it becomes two bisectors...either one, and yes, it will weaken it somehow. I was going by flux transfer at common shared coils from one to the other...

I like to try this in a Radio Shack first...and see what it does.

If I got it right, the CAD Diagram should look like below:

[IMG][/IMG]

The only thing that must be done for it to be timed properly, would be to move for a short angle the brushes towards the rotation sense...like 5 to 10 degrees in order to avoid bisector engagement between stators and coil being fired.

Either move the brushes...or rotate both commutators to proper angle (counter to rotation) when assembling rotor, then have brushes at exact alignment to stators center.

So, yeah, let's give it a try friend...we never know, we are all experimenting here....and this is a 'Democracy' here in the Open Source spirit...

I like the simplicity of this configuration...and like I said...You are right, it makes sense...You may have seen what I have missed prior when dissecting the three poles and starting to walk into the All North concept.

For comparison purposes I will wind the RS Motor this way with the same number of turns and gauge, as I did when I made the video where N-S Pairs versus All North Pairs was made, differentiating from the all N Pairs that I would try to fit the two coils total turns into just one coil and two poles.

I will try to "squeeze" this new project in front of my BIG pile of pending work...


Regards Friend


Ufopolitics

[sampojo]

5-pole unipolar extended to a 20-pole rotor

UFO and Team



I think this is where the 5 pole should have been single coils, then it would look more like the 3 pole's magnetic attributes.




I reviewed the past posts before I posted this post.....

I see that you and Gary started talking about my "NOW conclusion" last year March but never finished. It's seems as though the 5 pole has to be wound with single coils as Gary said and a thicker wire should be used as you said.(we should be able to use the same or more #turns with the thicker gauge wire and keep the specs for ohms resistance) Also, the coil should be the same diameter as the magnet for magnetic balance.

It's the only way that has not been discussed. Has anyone done this?
In my opinion, the 5pole should produce better performance than what we have seen so far.

Ufo, you wrote that you did it using 18 gauge on a motor. Tons of power. & weird readings. Unfortunately...the way I see this "Magnificence of Three" to be achieved...we need that North Firing Coils could "Exhaust" their South Poles through an "Open Space"...meaning, not having a "Mirror Effect" right at 180º apart...that would actually cancel this "Free" amplification/redirection...and I said "unfortunately" just because -SO FAR- this same "effect" could not be "Symmetrically" reproduced or Mirror Imaged on a Four Stator , Four Brush System.
....Anything more to add?

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

Yo Midaz,

Sounds pretty interesting as I have my Baldor 20-pole waiting to go. Ufo once proposed I wind it like a radio-shack 5-pole. I was worried about the lost copper winding on the inner poles if left empty, but maybe they could be wound with inner and outer grouping? 4 poles on the outer coil and also wind an inner coil on the 2 inside poles. I'd be up for it if it is supposed to be better than the overlapping unipolar designs.

[sampojo]

Winding my third GM window motor redux

Per my last post I am doing a unipolar rotor (10 poles) for my quad stator motor body. 5 poles are wound and I am running a little behind methinks as far as totally filling the rotor with copper wire this go-round. I like to run on the + side of 1 ohms. I don't think my meters are that great at detecting 1 ohm, think they are +/- .3-.4 ohms~. I had used my alcatel wiring guide and calculations indicated bifilar 32ga, but that was coming in around 1.7ohm for my 18' of wire I am using. Not sure if the recycled Old-TV degausing wire I started using is actually 32ga, hard to get a good measurement with the mike. Going trifilar seemed perfect and the ohms were def. hovering around 1+. I used Ufo's Quad-Bent-Y 10 pole NS winding on the old rotor and 26ga, 16' filling it quite nicely. But it was .6-.7 ohm resistance, ran hot (130deg+) and was a candidate for burn-up. So I am trying to get away from that problem. I might have been able to go 20+' on a quad-filar 32ga. I probably need to go longer to compensate the lost resistance from adding an additional strand. But then going longer and thicker diameter might be the double whammy that won't fit. I dunno, am I compacting the wire after each coil much better now, confusing my past experience? Better pull out my spread sheet on this and rerun some more calcs with a better resistance value and thickness estimate....

Here are some pics, I'd like to get anyone's feedback.



Rotor is 50%, done, 5 poles. Don't look very filled up do they...

I want these motors to do some work for me, lotta test ideas.

UPDATE: takes about an hour to make the trifilar cable, wrap a pole, and compress windings. So like 10 hours time to wind this whole thing, so trying desparately not to undo things. However I may undo the last one, leaving 4 coils wound with 18" of trifilar, and balanced since winding alternate sides of rotor(2 and 2 then). I really seem to have underestimated how the litzed wires will lay. They fill every nook and cranny very efficiently apparently, and leave more room to add copper. So for a series of wires I think I will up to a quadfilar at about 22' and see how those look on the next few poles!!!

[GlenWV]

Rotor Spin

Glen,

Does your rotor spin freely in the housing with the green epoxy on it?

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

Greetings:

Yes, the rotor spins freely.
I purchased this rotor new and the epoxy is from the manufacturer.

The rotor shaft was replaced and is now double ended.

All the rotors that I have removed from Imperial P56 & P66 motors have been epoxied from the manufacturer.

(gotta wind some more this weekend!)

glen

[GlenWV]

P66 Rewind update

Greetings:

It has been a while ..... but, I'm still working on this.

Building 'chic condo el grande' for my baby chicks sidetracked me back in the summer. (Chick condo el grande is Almost Heavenese for a 'really nice chicken house'.

My girls, 7 Golden Comets, are now egg factories and we are enjoying the eggs.

I had tried to stuff 6 turns of wire per group on the P66 Armature. Mr. UfoPolitics had suggested 5 turns. (Should have listened, but I had to try.)

So, after removing all the windings, I started rewinding with 5 turns per group and have gotten back to where I was.

Took some pics and posted them on photobucket: Rewind Photos by GlenWV | Photobucket

Will attach a couple of them here, too.

My thought is to wind a couple or four groupings per day until the thing is finished.

(I wonder how Kog's Nessie is coming along?)

GlenWV

[sampojo]

30v tests on AMC/GM unipolar

My AMC is performing great. Mosfets cool as cucumbers on 30v too. got 8241 rpm at 100% duty cycle. Also got more power at a higher frequency. Was running on lowest poss freq at 12v just a little bit off the bottom, guessing at 10 cps, could see the diodes flashing. Runs rough when your at the low end, and the current would be unreadable on a digital VOM bouncing around erratically, then I would adjust the freq up until I could get a reading. Noticed the LED on one circuit would be flashing at a slower erratic beat freqency on top of the normal flashing too, suspecting some RE effect. On 30v, at the lowest freqs, noticed this additional pulsing WAS TRIGGERING my NEON on just one side!! (dimly, I turned out the lights to get a good look. Unlike Cornboy I did not put 3 in a series to get the needed voltage tolerance, I put a 50k resistor inline instead) When it was flashing, this seemed to reduce available energy to the motor, and so I had to turn up the freq, estimate it was running stronger at several hundred cps now. (I will put an O-scope on things soon, promise!)

Hey Ufo, my motor has a hotspot right at midbody between the magnets. I have been trying to break in the motor, getting it warmed up letting it run for hours at a low power. Its getting looser, but I suspect I have a spot where it drags a little, think my shaft is not as true as it could be. So when I let it rip for a few minutes full power the hot spot got to 121deg, hot brushes 113, other 107degF. When do I have to worry about either burning things up or losing magnetism? My hobby motors burned up around 130degF. I am quite suprised its hot in the middle. Rubbing on something? No magnets there... No rubbing noises that I can tell...



This pic doesn't show the holes I have now around the brush sets. I don't want to lose this motor, its running pretty good... Wish it had a full set of magnets on it. Definitely got my sights on a quad set up with my other GM quad motor, wall to wall magnets there!



Two more boards to build! Need a snow day...

1/10/15:UPDATE: Wrong about no rubbing on my double rotor dual stator. Only one explanation for the hotspot in the middle, FRICTION. So I got my children's old toy stethoscope out and did some close listening, had some rotor parts showing manufacturing differences plus a coat of epoxe rubbing. Put the rotor in my drill press and filed things down to fit. just added about 1500 rpm to the top end!!!