My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[HuntingRoss]

End to End motor casing

I do not clearly understand what you are trying to do when you say "turning armatures back to back"...as well as "doing same to casings "...

If you meant to joint two casings and take magnets off and re set them properly...I do NOT recommend to do that in your first build, keep it simple, just cut off a ring of one of casings enough to allow the brushes plus caps to meet your second commutator...and just use ONE SET of Stators as they come in one casing.

It will help if you could add some Graphics, Sketches or pictures of your build.

Thanks and welcome again.


Ufopolitics

Hi UFO. Apologies if I am using the incorrect terminology. You're correct in what you describe. I am joining two casings bottom to bottom as this seems simpler to me as a novice compared to trying to release the commutator from the donor motor and correctly aligning it on the re-build motor. Alas, despite this there is insufficient room on the back end shaft.

Here's a few photos to try and describe a little better -

[IMG][/IMG]

If the stator magnet in view is the north magnet then the top edge is north and the bottom edge is south. When the two casings are turned to join, the two north magnets are facing south to south. I checked the field (?) with a magnet lowered down the axis and there is an amount of disruption at the adjacent edges but it is minimal and not much more than the field variation across the face of the curved magnet nearing the centre. So I'm going t bash on with this method.

[IMG][/IMG]

You can see in this photo the rear shaft is too small to fit a commutator. The blue dots appear to be a hot melt glue to stabilise the windings (?) they seem to serve no other purpose. The poles are already numbered.

Thanks. mark.

[Lightworker1]

Hello to All,

I just wanted to come by and say...am still here...

I received my UFO Kit...plus I have also the rotor kit...so I have my hands full...(I wanna do one rotor with Groups while another with Pairs..."ALL NORTH"...they need some work before any winding could be done.

But, but...that is not the main reason I have been busy...I have a surprise coming very soon...I find it fascinating...and I love it...and so I believe you also will...

Kind regards to all.

@ my Australian Guys...(Cornboy and Kogs)...I see you are having fun swapping Real State there!...

Is Ok, I know you will be back whenever you are ready to go...

Wish You the very best of luck!


Ufopolitics

Hello Dear Friend UFO, nice to hear from you. I also await for the mystery news. Right now I am preparing Part1 of the Asymmetric Dual Pentagon Motor which will cover Build and Theory of Asymmetric Motors, together with small pre-exiting Videos of this Motor. I thought as I was waiting for the various bits and pieces like POWER SUPPLY, lets get part 1 out the way.
The part 2 will mainly cover data analysis.
After this goldmine motor, I will join you with the Imperial UFO kit Wound or built as ALL NORTH TYPE. (That kit when I look at in the box, is quietly whispering, "When will I take off to the new horizons?..."
The Part1 Video of Goldmine Motor will be available for the preview soon. All the Best Luck.

@ Cornboy and Kogs, wish you guys first best success in your projects of the physical world (real estates). I know you guys will jump back to UFO-R&D right back when the time is right. Best Luck.



Here are just at random, Four Frames from the part1 of the video being prepared:


1.



2.


3.


4.



Wish everyone all the best.


Warmest regards

lightworker

[wantomake]

Still here can't wait

Hello to All,
Been real busy with two jobs. But still reading these posts to try and keep up to date.

Will be building a earthbag shop that will be totally or part underground because the seasons have become so extreme here in S. Carolina. The extreme conditions prevents me from working in my shop. Building one at relative's home first.

Still working as time allows on different aspects of the modified Ufo motor.

Can't wait to see what news you have Ufopolitics!!

Would be nice to see Australia, we have missionary friends there.

Best to All,
wantomake

[Cornboy 555]

Hey UFO, wondered where you have been, when you take absence it's normally to introduce something new, will be here looking in, can't wait!.

Where I will be moving to, is wild pristine country, and will take a while to settle in, and I will be back.

It's hectic moving after 16 yrs, as you well know, when you moved your shop.

Kogs, Tassie, BRRRRRRRR!!!!!!!

All the very best, Cornboy.

[Ufopolitics]

Am still around...

Hello to All,

I just wanted to come by and say...am still here...

I received my UFO Kit...plus I have also the rotor kit...so I have my hands full...(I wanna do one rotor with Groups while another with Pairs..."ALL NORTH"...they need some work before any winding could be done.

But, but...that is not the main reason I have been busy...I have a surprise coming very soon...I find it fascinating...and I love it...and so I believe you also will...

Kind regards to all.

@ my Australian Guys...(Cornboy and Kogs)...I see you are having fun swapping Real State there!...

Is Ok, I know you will be back whenever you are ready to go...

Wish You the very best of luck!


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Welcome Hunting Ross

So. General question.

Turning the armatures back to back necessitates doing the same to the casings as the magnets are towards the bottom of the casing.

This puts the ends of the magnets in opposition approximately 10mm apart which is the distance between the laminations of one armature to the other.

In a perfect world the north and south magnets in the rotated casing would want to be removed and rotated to attract their twins in the other casing but they are securely bonded.

I anticipate this isn’t ideal...but my question is this –

Does it sound like a fundamental problem to the operation of the motor or is it “just not ideal” ?

Thoughts welcome

mark

Hello and Welcome Mark!

Sorry about delay in getting back, I have been awfully busy lately...now back on your build...

I do not clearly understand what you are trying to do when you say "turning armatures back to back"...as well as "doing same to casings "...

If you meant to joint two casings and take magnets off and re set them properly...I do NOT recommend to do that in your first build, keep it simple, just cut off a ring of one of casings enough to allow the brushes plus caps to meet your second commutator...and just use ONE SET of Stators as they come in one casing.

It will help if you could add some Graphics, Sketches or pictures of your build.

Thanks and welcome again.


Ufopolitics

[iankoglin]

Kogs update

G'day UFO and Team
Just to let you know where I am at
I am sorry I have not been active here for some time now
I still have to buy a battery and some more Super Caps to finish Nessie and I have run out of money, work has been scarce around here so until I get some work I have to stop working on my projects here

Also Jill and I have decided to sell our house and buy or build a smaller one so we need to do some tidying up around the house especially my workshop

Before I joined this list here I started building an 18' wooden boat I have named her Reelaxation and as she has been sitting unfinished in her shed for over 2 years now I need to get her finished and out of the way it will take me about 3 months I have all the materials to finish her

I really am sorry I am not able to finish Nessie But it will happen

Its good to see new ones showing interest and some coming back to continue their building I am still following and will be back as soon ASAP

Corn boy it sounds like a nice property your Daughter bought I would love to live in Queesland But I am sure we will finish up in Tasmania

Kindest Regards to everyone

Kogs busier than ever

[DadHav]

Hello John thanks for the comment on the video. I have just finished getting right the the silk-layer of the circuit board using eagle cadsoft. All these actions consume time (fuel of life) but as I said eariler, I needed this as investment for the on-going projects. Now I have dedcided on using photo-resist method using uv box. Here are useful videos for all to consider if they choose to do so. The resolution I know will be excellent. Long long time ago I used to make use of photoresist methods to make tantalum thinfilm hybrid circuits. That's the type of circuit modules they used in the now the retired SST Concorde engine control system boxes.


Well here are the videos:


How to make PCB using Photoresist Dry Film

How to make PCB using Photoresist Dry Film - YouTube

I like methodology behind the use UV LED Strips because it will produce uniform uv illumination. This uv box absolutely essential if one needs reproducible results:

Making a led UV PCB exposure box - YouTube

Also some while back, JohnStone also, I think stated that one can use RS Components website to design circuit boards. I have not tried that one yet. If anyone does let me know. Thanks.
Warmest Regards All

lightworker

Hello Light, I'm not sure it's appropriate to talk so much about circuit boards so someone let me know if it's out of order. It looks like you're picking a direction that will give you a quality job. I might be able to add a few things that might work also. I have probably 40 some packages of Kepro pc board kits. I just looked at the date and they're 20 years old so they probably are no good, the dry film already is dark blue. These board kits come with the dry film on them already. There is a small packet of powder that you mix with water and use for the developer. You simply attach the negative expose the film, develope then etch. They even give you a little sponge. I think Kepro is out of business but someone like CamCom or others sell the product or something similar. I'll see if the boards are any good and if they are I'll send you a few to try if you like. I had a dark room at that time and used a contact print frame which is simply a board with a hard rubber surface and a hinged glass top. Just put the board with the negative on top, close it up and expose. I used a simple #2 250 watt photoflood bulb about 12 inches above the frame. I had a rheostat on the bulb to cut the voltage a little and make the bulb last longer. About 8 to 10 minutes of light and you where ready for the rest of it. It seems it would be pretty easy with a laser printed negative. I'm having trouble finding how to set for the darkest printing on my Samsung M2875FW though. I don't know if any of this is helpful but I thought I'd put it up just in case.
John

[NEXUS10]

I get the messagge sorry this video is PRIVATE! How do we watch the video?

OVERUNITY_TEST_UNEDITED_TRACK_1

[Lightworker1]

That's pretty nice work LW. I always wanted to try something like the printer process you showed on the video. Maybe some experimenting with the paper and printer settings could bring better results. Have you ever heard of a clear film that you could lazer print on to use like a negative for dry etch boards? That's if people still use dry etch kits. I haven't etched a board in many years now. You could use sunlight as well as a UV box on some of them. thanks for the tips and video.
John

Hello John thanks for the comment on the video. I have just finished getting right the the silk-layer of the circuit board using eagle cadsoft. All these actions consume time (fuel of life) but as I said eariler, I needed this as investment for the on-going projects. Now I have dedcided on using photo-resist method using uv box. Here are useful videos for all to consider if they choose to do so. The resolution I know will be excellent. Long long time ago I used to make use of photoresist methods to make tantalum thinfilm hybrid circuits. That's the type of circuit modules they used in the now the retired SST Concorde engine control system boxes.


Well here are the videos:


How to make PCB using Photoresist Dry Film

How to make PCB using Photoresist Dry Film - YouTube

I like methodology behind the use UV LED Strips because it will produce uniform uv illumination. This uv box absolutely essential if one needs reproducible results:

Making a led UV PCB exposure box - YouTube

Also some while back, JohnStone also, I think stated that one can use RS Components website to design circuit boards. I have not tried that one yet. If anyone does let me know. Thanks.
Warmest Regards All

lightworker

[HuntingRoss]

Question

So...here is my first faltering steps into this world of stuff never taught at school.

I have two 24v DC 120w scooter motors which I intend to cut off the back shaft s and bond them together using Loctite 290. I figure this will keep the correct alignment of commutator to rotor slots.

The motors are 12 pole wound as 5 pole 23 winds per coil. They develop a staggering 0.42N.m at 2500rpm. In other words you can easily stall this on a bench test with only 5v running through it by just using your thumb and forefinger with a cloth to save your skin. I intend to use the 5v power supply as a datum against the rewind when I have it complete.

I've just ordered a bunch of basic test equipment so I can check the stats as I get them.

I'm going to try a 3 coil/group 3 pole/coil 4 winds/coil and see if this works. This is against a background of me trying to absorb the info in UFO's videos with brush positions, centre magnets...Honestly. My head is spinning (no pun intended) with the overload of information.

I shall add a few photos for good measure in my next post when I get my equipment delivered.

The very best to all...and good speed

mark

So. General question.

Turning the armatures back to back necessitates doing the same to the casings as the magnets are towards the bottom of the casing.

This puts the ends of the magnets in opposition approximately 10mm apart which is the distance between the laminations of one armature to the other.

In a perfect world the north and south magnets in the rotated casing would want to be removed and rotated to attract their twins in the other casing but they are securely bonded.

I anticipate this isn’t ideal...but my question is this –

Does it sound like a fundamental problem to the operation of the motor or is it “just not ideal” ?

Thoughts welcome

mark

[DadHav]

Hello I am preparing Part 1 Video of the Goldmine Dual Pentagon Y Asymmetric Motor titled "Theory and Practical Construction of Goldmine Dual Pentagon Y Asymmetric Motor"
As I was still in the process of rebuilding arduino controlable power supply, I thought mean while do the part 1 and present results and analysis in the part 2
I was also trying to put any videos related to the current projects on the YouTube as well

One such video is:

A1302 RPM Hall Sensor for the UFOPOLITICS Asymmetric Motors
A1302 RPM Hall Sensor for the UFOPOLITICS Asymmetric Motors - YouTube

Thanks

Warmest Regards
lightworker1

That's pretty nice work LW. I always wanted to try something like the printer process you showed on the video. Maybe some experimenting with the paper and printer settings could bring better results. Have you ever heard of a clear film that you could lazer print on to use like a negative for dry etch boards? That's if people still use dry etch kits. I haven't etched a board in many years now. You could use sunlight as well as a UV box on some of them. thanks for the tips and video.
John

[Lightworker1]

Part 1 Video of Goldmine Dual Pentagon Y Asymmetric Motor

Hello I am preparing Part 1 Video of the Goldmine Dual Pentagon Y Asymmetric Motor titled "Theory and Practical Construction of Goldmine Dual Pentagon Y Asymmetric Motor"
As I was still in the process of rebuilding arduino controlable power supply, I thought mean while do the part 1 and present results and analysis in the part 2
I was also trying to put any videos related to the current projects on the YouTube as well

One such video is:

A1302 RPM Hall Sensor for the UFOPOLITICS Asymmetric Motors
A1302 RPM Hall Sensor for the UFOPOLITICS Asymmetric Motors - YouTube

Thanks

Warmest Regards
lightworker1

[Lightworker1]

Hello Everyone, great to see new blood, continuing to come here, Hunting Ross.

Sorry I cut out mid stream, I have my farm listed on Realestate.com, and am spending any spare time answering potential buyers emails, and organising inspections.

My daughter has just bought a property, to secure it for me, it is off grid, and will be very close to off Mortgage, with a pristine, huge flow, river running through it, that originates in locked up state forest.

It is 800 meters above sea level, with only 3 neighbours up stream, that don't farm.

When I settle in I should have some Quality time to experiment, so just a big HELLO, to everyone, and I will be a more participating member here shortly.

Our Dear Friend my prayers to God are with you for you to come out of this situation ASAP and peacefully as possible.
I know you will be back ASAP. God's Blessings are with you.
Good luck on the new property secured by your daughter.

Warmest Regards
lightworker1

[DadHav]

Hello Everyone, great to see new blood, continuing to come here, Hunting Ross.

Sorry I cut out mid stream, I have my farm listed on Realestate.com, and am spending any spare time answering potential buyers emails, and organising inspections.

My daughter has just bought a property, to secure it for me, it is off grid, and will be very close to off Mortgage, with a pristine, huge flow, river running through it, that originates in locked up state forest.

It is 800 meters above sea level, with only 3 neighbours up stream, that don't farm.

When I settle in I should have some Quality time to experiment, so just a big HELLO, to everyone, and I will be a more participating member here shortly.

Good Luck, I hope you'll post some pictures sometime, it sounds like a beautiful property.
J